906

The Ribbon Jeans

I began planning this pair of jeans almost as soon before taking pics of the previous. I feel like I’m close which makes me happy.  I hunted for a good fabric. I would have preferred a medium-dark, non-stretch denim. None to be found in my stash. I’m needing blue pants in my closet so I looked carefully I what I did have.  I had to discard one denim because there simply wasn’t enough length with this pattern. I think it odd, but the 3-piece leg requires more fabric than 2. I would have thought it possible to shift things around and make maximum use with 3 pieces. Not so. By the time everything is on-grain, a full 2 yards is required for shorty me and I would prefer 2-1/4.   Anyway what I did choose was a heavier weight denim, about 10-11 oz,; navy blue almost black with 20% stretch. It is a cotton/lycra blend which is fine with me.  I stopped to review my previous tissue alterations:

  • Added 7/8″ length to front crotch
  • Shortened inseam to 29.5″
  • Narrow hem circumference to 18″
    • -1/2″ on inseam
    • -1″ on sideseam
  • Establish seam allowances
    • Crotch 3/8″
    • Inseam 1/4″
    • leg center-back 1/4″

And then I added a few more learned from fitting:

  • Reduce waistband length -1/4″
  • Reduce side seam length above hip
    • back 1″ back *divided
    • front 1.25″  *divided
  • Add 1/2″ ease at back side seam for butt
  • Add 1″ ease (2″ total) at center front

Basically, I’ve added 3 more alterations for above the knee fitting.

906 has the center back seam in the leg and I considered adding the extra ease there. But I need to reduce circumference under the butt.  I don’t want to create a wildly bulging curve by adding more circumference directly above where I chisel it out.  I considered the typical alterations for ‘protruding rear’ . But they add ease at the waist and under the bum as well. If I use those alterations, I  must make more alterations to offset the ease added at waist and under-butt.  I hesitated on adding the 1/2″ at the side seam. I know I’ve made similar alterations in the past. I end up with Micky Mouse ears on my side seams. I don’t understand why, but the extra ease does not get pulled to where it is needed and instead hovers over a rather flat part of my body (the side hip). But I had run out of options. I’d run out of answers to the question: Where can I add ease for the butt without adding too much at the waist and under the butt.  I added 1/2″ on the side  right about where I stick out the most in back.

Adding ease to the center front came about after I made the side seam shorter (via the 2 side darts) I noticed that the center front was curved and pulling towards the side seams.

That’s not the line I usually see at CF on pants. This is one time I’m usual rather than different. I decided to cut right along the fly line and watched as it sprang open 1″ on it’s on. I taped tissue into place and decided to just go with it.

Despite my reservations, I began cutting and construction. I mean that’s the only way to tell if the changes are  going to work. I serged inseams and center  back-leg seams; installed the zipper with permanent stitching and also serged the top seam of the waistband to its facing (followed by triple stitching that seam to nail it into place).  I basted everything else with water-soluble thread in the bobbin before the first fitting. I will note that it wasn’t the easiest thing to ease the side back to the side front seam and easing the waistband to the top of the pant involved a lot of stretching and a little swearing. See not only was the waist expanded by the CF addition but I forgot and stitched my 1″ fitting seams at 1/2″.  Old habits are bound to kick you now and then.

So the first fitting didn’t tell me much beyond I had more than enough ease. I also saw that the back side seam was gathered to the front. I thought I had shortened the front 1/4″ more than the back but this was a lot more than that.  I ripped out the side seam to just below the hip and offset the yoke and back leg 1/2″; then restitched side seams at the 1″ depth they were supposed to be.  I also corrected the crotch seam. Somehow I had sewn one side deeper than the other and at an angle. I have no explanation and no defense.  But I was pretty happy with Fit 02. No pics of the fittings. Mostly that was it. Stitching the seams at the right depth and taking a little more from the back side seam depth.  When I did the permanent stitching I also let the back and front sides align as they desired (vs me forcing the two dissimilar curves together). It straight the curve just a little, removing about 1/4″. For the final fitting and pics I am sharing, I lightened them 100% and still it’s not easy to see the fitting issues.

The front feels like the crotch might be 1/4-1/2″ to long. I thought adding 2″ at the CF would be too much ease, but my pics says my tummy wouldn’t mind more.

The outright gathering is gone. That 1/2″ was the right decision. But like the back

Diagonal lines on the butt are ribbon.

I think the sides are saying “too much ease”.  Here’s my problem: I’m wanting to fit this pattern for non-stretch denim. This denim has 20% stretch. If I take it in, which the tummy BTW says “no”,  a non-stretch fabric has no chance of fitting. I suppose I could take in just the pants and not transfer to the pattern??

Anyway, pants feel great during wear. As I said before, they do feel a little long in the crotch front. I can see they may be a little long in the leg but I like that in new jeans. Interesting that denim seems to warm, soften and stretch width wise but over time shrinks lengthwise. My favorite jeans are always discarded

And the Pockets?  Totally easy to create. That’s 2 widths of grosgrain ribbon. The 1″ is stitched to the wrong side of the hem, folded to the right side and top stitched. Hem done. The 1/2″ grosgrain was stitched next to two lines I chalked onto the denim. Then I serged the outside. The raw edges don’t have to be serged but I find that it folds easily and more importantly evenly to the wrong side fit it’s serged first. I secured the pocket in place with 1/2″ Steam-A-Seam before top stitching the pocket to the jean. Easy. And so many possible variations. Not only can the ribbon be orientated differently, it can different colors, stacked, embroidered, painted. It’s just a wonderful embellishment I should have been using all along.

 

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Large differences usually work better for me if I make them into small difference. So for the side seam length reduction, I made two 1/2″ darts (3/8″ front). The result is that the full amount has been reduced but the side seam retains its curve and did not degenerate into jogs.

NET FITTING CHANGES

  • Added 7/8″ length to front crotch
  • Shortened inseam to 29.5″
  • Narrow hem circumference to 18″
    • -1/2″ on inseam
    • -1″ on sideseam
  • Establish seam allowances
    • Crotch 3/8″
    • Inseam 1/4″
    • leg center-back 1/4″
    • side seams 1/2″
    • waistband
      • upper 1/4″ (3/8 when folded to WS)
      • lower 1/2″
    • Yoke 1/2″ except 3/8″ crotch
    • Top of leg 1/2″
  • Reduce waistband length -1/4″
  • Reduce side seam length above hip
    • back 1.5″ back *divided
    • front 1.25″  *divided
  • Add 1/4″ ease at back side seam for butt
  • Add 1″ ease (2″ total) at center front

 

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906

Fitting 906

After a few  days of fitting, interspersed with life’s duties and activities, I have returned with a post about fitting my beloved Trudy Jansen Designer Jean Pattern #906.

The lovely med-dark brown, stretch, denim fabric  I selected, was easy to cut and very cooperative during sewing. It is, as well, a joy to wear.  The finished jeans feel wonderful despite having a bit too much ease.    I stitched the zipper in permanently and  serged the waistband to it’s facing along the upper edge. But I basted all else using Water Soluble Thread before starting  the fitting.

To my delight there were several fit issues already  or very close to correct.

The waistband needed to be shortened 1/4″ ( by removing 1/8 from each center-front edge and redistributing the top of the leg along the waistband). Hardly noticeable and not much trouble.

The inseam length was correct!

The hem circumference was my very favorite, 18″

During fitting I found that both the center back leg seam and the inseam needed no further adjustments. Which means due to my initial pattern alterations , they were right and I could have serged  instead of basting.

The crotch lengths, both back and front, are either right, or so close I can’t tell. As with the inseam and back leg seam, the crotch could have been permanently sewn instead of basting.

My first alteration was the 1/4″ adjustment to the waistband. Immediately I launched into fixing the pooling and drooping along the side. I expected this error.  I knew how exactly how long the crotch and inseam needed to be. I knew the side seam needed to be shorter, but didn’t know how much.

Unfortunately. I was not able to completely eliminate the side droop. I was able to shorten the sides (back 1″ and the front 1-1/4″). Anymore and other issues developed. It was just too much change in the same place.  When I carried the change back to the tissue, I had to make two  corrections instead of  one i.e. i made two 1/2″ darts on back, and 2 3/8″ darts on the front. Otherwise, the tissue would buckle.

My 2nd not totally resolved  issue, was actually the circumference needed at the extreme points of both hip and tummy.  I needed all available fabric in both places but not between. As of this writing, I’m not sure I will ever be able to adjust that perfectly, but I may come close by making adjustments to the tissue before cutting fabric.

I did correct the tent which formed in the center  back. It was a simple change of the angle of the yoke and back crotch with a 1/4″ wedge/or fish eye dart over the yoke/leg conjunction.

Not even attempted were the legs which I would like to be closer fitting. I think jeans should be body conscious. I just don’t want you counting my hairs. KWIM?  I am disappointed that the back X’s have appeared. I have not scooped the crotch nor changed the angle (other than nipping off the tent). A third possibility is that my comfortable back crotch length needs to be shorter.

Right now, I feel like I’ve done what I can do with this cutting, this fabric.

(Final fitting. Pic on the Right is lightened 80%)

I need to copy all the changes to the tissue and make another pair.

(Final fitting. Pic on the Right is lightened 80%)

It’s amazing to me that sometimes I can make a garment fit despite the issues (thinking now of the pink jeans and my forcing it to work with a pocket that didn’t duplicate the front). Especially since I know the fabric can only be pushed and pulled so far off grain….

…before the draft needs to be fixed.  That’s the point I think I’m at.

So, Yeppers, I know I still have work to do. I need more ease at the prominent points of my hip and tummy. At the same time, I need less ease/circumference nearly every where else. I am still happy, very happy with the things that are right, are PERFECT (or so good I don’t know they are wrong) which would be:

  • Waist band width is my preferred 2″. (Usually I change this after I’ve fit and made a few pairs. This time, I wanted to start with what I love) (Egads! Shades of Peggy Sagers)
  • Waistband Length is perfect (Will be using a 1/4″ seam between waistband and facing; 1/2″ between waistband and top of leg.)
  • Inseam, both length and seam allowance, are perfect.
  • 18″ Hem circumference is my favorite.
  • Center back leg seam is perfect.
  • Back Crotch length perfect
  • Front Crotch length perfect.
  • Crotch curve is perfect

 

******

 

Is is possible that alterations to one of the unsat areas could cause these areas to need balancing or correcting But I’m happy with them now; not planning alterations; and will not baste them into place.

906

The Gross Error

Let me tell you it was not fun to transfer all the changes back to the tissue. I had tweaked some areas multiple times which I now wanted to make into a net change.  I needed to add length to the crotches and take away from the waistband width (I’d used part of the seam allowances to give myself enough crotch length.) I’d darted the side front and side back several times. Oh and lots of other little changes.   The last thing I did was to compare the pocket piece. I’d made so many changes, I was sure it would need some adjusting. I was in shock. Absolute shock. The pocket was horribly, horribly wrong. If I attached it in the waist seam, only the corner of the hand opening would have been caught in the side seam. I am not a fan of hanging pockets. Those not caught in the waist seam will over time, crumple and become unattractive front bulges.  Not attached all along the side seam and the pocket will pull loose. Apparently, I put a lot of strain right at that point.

It dawned on me, like the proverbial light bulb, that the issues I had in Fittings 4-10 were probably the result of forcing the pant to fit the pocket. Think about it. It’s quite common for women’s knit tops to be longer on the side front than the side back.  The front is eased to the back which causes  a little bulge to form in front for your little front bulges. It’s almost standard for the back inseam in jeans to be shorter than the front. Again the front and back are ease together and the result is the back forms little pooch for your pooches. Let’s not forget the well-accepted practice of men’s bespoke which asks “dress right or left” so that the tailor can provide a little room for the male anatomy. Got the picture? Except there was no need for a pooch where I forced it.

My recollection of the pocket pieces were tracing and using as is. That perplexed me.  I’d made similar changes to those patterns; how could they have fit? So I drug out the original pattern and compared the pieces. First comparing traced pocket pieces to pattern originals (they matched) and then pocket pieces to pant. They didn’t match.

I use the size 18 which is the set of dashes  third from the outside. Here the pocket has been folded along the side and top drafted lines and aligned as best possible, on the front piece.

I also got to looking at the front fly and realized when folded into position the fly did not match at the pant waist:

We’re looking not at the original pattern, but a newly traced copy.

Which explains why I always have this problem:

i.e. when sewn the top of the fly is not caught in the waistband. It can droop. Usually I let it droop as shown on the pink jeans because I knew about it and thought it resulted from some sewing error of my own.

I do wonder if these two issues were by design i.e. were they drafted this way? For me however, they aren’t working. I can tell by the rotten time I had fitting the pink jeans.

When I realized these issues, I went into a mild shock. The pant fly was not so bad. I have been assuming I’m doing something wrong in the sewing and letting the fly lie as it will. But the pocket I am always forcing into position. Thinking back, there have been times  I created my pocket pattern pieces by tracing the upper pant and cutting the tissue to my desired pocket shape.

But the question now was what to do going forward.  Continue apply the fitting changes to the tissue?  I certainly wanted to fix both pocket and fly issues. The fly might not be critical. BUT I wasn’t sure how many of the fitting changes I made were due to the pocket. That were a lot of tweaks to the front that had to be reflected in the back. Would those changes have been needed anyway? So do I proceed to apply the fitting changes or restart with the well-taped pattern I began with for the pink jeans?  Or was it time to go back to the original?

I had to put things away and think about it. Seriously. 2 days of puttering around the house occasionally looking in on the pattern pieces strewn about my cutting table. In the end, I decided to go back to the beginning. All the way back to slipping the tape measure around my hips over my underwear and choosing size based on the tape measure reading. It was with some relief, again, that I was able to choose the same size, 18. I traced it. Then sat it aside for another day. Man, this thinking stuff takes time.

It took me a long time to wrap my head around Peggy Sager’s teachings. Some I still don’t agree with. This time though I said, this is not a pattern I have no clues about.  I just successfully – not beautifully but successfully fit this pattern. I know things about this pant. I know that I like a certain front and back crotch length. I know I like a certain inseam length. I know several hem circumferences that I prefer.  I know how much ease my butt requires. I know, I know, I know. I know lots of things. Peggy repeated urges that you copy the things you like.  So I carefully measured the things I knew I liked and applied them to the newly traced copy of TJ906.

I do mean carefully.  I used my Curve Runner to measure the top and bottom of the waistband along the stitching line.  Compared that with the stitching line of the new tissue. That means I had to mark the seam allowances and the front overlap. Carefully as in with lots of care and thought; I applied changes to the crotch length, the inseam and the hem circumference. I marked my preferred seam allowances except for the side seams.  Since this is a fitting exercise, I expanded them to 1″.  I walked the seams, along the stitching line.  Carefully. Very, carefully.  One thing I decided was to  not sew the front pocket. I will make and  the back pocket in the last stages of fitting. I will stitch and give the impression of a front pocket. But for now, I want to eliminate the front pocket as a fitting issue.  When I can isolate the front pocket as the fitting issue, that means future versions, then I will create my own pocket pieces from the fitted front tissue.

Then I picked fabric. I hunted for fabric that would be an autumn/winter weight, light in color and no stretch.  Could not find such a pant-worthy fabric in my stash. I picked a 10% stretch (cotton/lycra), in a medium-dark brown denim. Sigh, I managed to avoid black and the darkest of blues and brown, but the winter selection was sorely lacking in light colored pant fabrics. My fault  really. Light colored clothing gets ruined at the first snow.  Somehow snow dissolves rock-like gunk which gets thrown up onto clothing staining it forever. Sturdy outer layers are crucial. Dark colors supreme (if you want to wear your clothing more than once!). So I picked the medium, dark brown and hoped my software can lighten the pics enough to be seen.

Come along on this journey with me.  I’m still unsure of the decisions I made. Even after waiting another 72 hours (dr appt in distant city), I keep wondering if I’ve made the right decisions. The pattern pieces look too small. Yet I know they are larger than my calculations and that my fabric has a fudge factor (10% stretch). Not to mention that when I chose size, I was in-between. I choose the next size up. So I should have another fudge factor from having started with a pattern slightly too larger.  Still, my eyes say “I dunno…”

906

TJ906: Fall 2017 Jeans

I chose to use a pink denim purchased 10-13 years ago from JoAnn in Rapid City SD. It was the end of the summer season.  I think of pink as a spring/summer color so I put the fabric away for next spring. Next spring came, but I was deep into finding pants patterns which fit (a task which took me 9 solid months of sewing). Then I got side tracked onto other sewing projects. Dusty pink departed from the trends; leaving this fabric to marinate for several years.  It is a 100% cotton, loosely-woven twill. Not like a hand-woven but still not the tight weave of typical jean denim. Definitely a nice spring/summer/autumn fabric.

Trudy Jansen 906 is always my first choice for jeans. However,   I gave up on using TJ906 for shorts this summer. Every alteration seemed to make the next  pair worse than the previous.  I feared I had ruined all my fitted 906 patterns and would need to start fresh, when I pulled out all the envelopes and folders and  found two  complete versions of the long-legged jeans.   I can’t tell you how relieved I was. I compared the 2 patterns carefully and decided to use the pattern with the 18.5″ hem circumference. The two patterns were very much alike other than hem circumference (the other was 22″) and  one yoke was 1/2″ wider.   I didn’t know which yoke was ‘right’. I reasoned  if it was too wide, I could trim easily. However not wide enough, well a whole different challenge.  I pressed the pattern pieces carefully (they were traced on canary-yellow tissue paper and must have been old because they were quite fragile as well as heavily taped together; and then  I pressed my fabric. I cut the pieces and serge finished before inserting the zipper.  I swapped out the bobbin for water-soluble thread and basted the rest of the pants together. Crossed my fingers and did the first fitting. Followed by fitting 2, 3 all the way through 10.

Why so many?  Actually the first 3 fittings fixed the worst of the issues and the last were tweaking with front leg wrinkles, front crotch folds, and some awkward butt wrinkles.

Every alteration to the front, required a balancing act with the back and sides. Honestly I despaired. On the 10th fitting, I decided that while I may not have gotten the usual beautiful fit, these were wearable.

They have quite possibly been distorted from all the ripping, stitching and ironing done along the way. BUT, I’m not embarrassed to wear them. Once I’m fully dressed and in action, they look good

I’m hoping that the laundry shrinks them just a little. Jeans are supposed to be body-conscious, I just don’t want anyone to be able to count hairs.

When I transfer fitting changes to the tissue, I discovered a gross error…

 

… which I will share in a future post.

906, Shorts

906 Refitting: STALLED

I transfer changes back to the tissue. I didn’t cut the tissue.  I carefully measured and  marked and folded the new excess out of the way. I rounded the changes i.e. a 1 1/8″ change became a simple 1″. I was not fighting with measuring 1/16 or 1/32.  Those are often a thread or two and I’ve said repeatedly if my pattern can’t abide a change of a thread or two, it’s not the pattern for me. I’m not a perfectionist sewer. I don’t like picky fussy clothes and and I don’t like picky fussy sewing.

Then I pick another nice fabric. It is 100% cotton in a novelty weave. A bit light in weight but comparable to many of my summer shorts. It’s just not a stiff denim twill which since 906 is a jeans pattern I feel I should be using a jean like fabric. At least for fitting. I cut my fabric and because I know the pattern still needs some adjusting, I serge finish all the edges before putting the zipper in with permanent stitching. I baste all the other seams with water soluble thread WST.

The first fitting and all the droop in front has returned:

I find this especially annoying. But also, I wonder why? Am I working on the wrong issue?  Typically I find that if I fix an issue and it returns, then I’m not fixing the issue I’m fixing a symptom of the true issue.  Like when the doc gives you aspirin for pneumonia. You need antibiotics. As long as he gives you aspirin your chances of recovery are low and you still look really sick. It’s not until I start attaching the waistband that I realize what is wrong. The front is too wide. How can it still have too much circumference? During fitting I took out 1 1/8″. I recheck and discover I’ve made the error Peggy’s always warns us about and why she prefers to use the fitted muslin for a pattern. I made the fitting change but did not transfer it to the tissue. I correct the tissue. Take apart all the stitching and recut the front. Also serge finish the new side seam and waist before using WST to put everything together again.  That seems to have fixed nearly all the droop so I continue with Fitting 2; and then  3 and 4.

At fitting 4,  I throw up my hands and declare “This is crazy”.

I’ve got rouching along the side seams

Rouching for which I have carefully and multiple times walked the side seams. I’m always careful to make the same amount of change to both front and back. Rouching? Rouching!

I’ve got bubbles in the waistband and below the waistband

 

At the same time the crotch is cutting into my own.

Which is does while concurrently looking like I have too much crotch length. And the last few changes to snug up the rear have re-created the front droop

Albeit that the droop is now almost in the leg instead of the tummy.

This is the worst fit so far. The worst fit in 5 test garments.

It should be getting better not worse. It should not be that hard to fit this pattern.  I’ve always, like for the last 13 years, put a tape measure around my butt where it sticks out the furthest, and chosen a size based on the number read. I may need to take in the sides a little. I have scooped the crotch for some fabrics (but not most). I’ve tweaked the back seam under my bum to get it a little closer. But I’ve never made this many tests or these many adjustments. Never!  I don’t think it is the method. I still think it should work to choose the size by the finished measurement. I think my finished measurement is wrong. I’ve started with far too big a size and struggled with tweaking it smaller through draping. I can’t brag that draping is working.

In sheer desperation, I pull out the tape measure and measure my bum. Look at the chart which says I’m between a 16 and an 18.  I may be close enough to  use a 16 but I trace the 18. Mostly because the very first test garment was a size 16 and I had such a hard time zipping it up!   I take this pant as far apart as I can, (the zipper was put in permanently and I don’t want to rip); Then I compare the size 18 to the fabric.  I’m thinking I’ll just cut this modified 20 to an 18 and start from there.

Except, the modified 20 is now smaller than the 18. Can’t recut. Complicating that process is that I’ve taken so much from the side seams that the sides are shorter than the 18. Can’t start over with a straight 18 on this fabric.

I can use fresh fabric. But will that work? If this test is smaller than the default 18 I’m going to be tweaking the size downward again. So far I’ve made massive changes  without success.  I’m doubtful of that process. But the 16, the size smaller, was too small. While the 20 crotch length was needed in the back. Looking at the pant above, I’m not sure if I need an even  longer back crotch because the crotch is cutting into me but all those diagonals indicate the back crotch is too long.

I’m going to put this aside for a day or two while I contemplate my approach. I really want to start with the right size. I still believe in this pattern. I just think I’m going about it in the wrong way.

906, Shorts

Refitting TJ906

Despite the extreme inconvenience Photobucket has caused, I haven’t given up blogging. I haven’t even taken a real vacation. I did take a week to work with the embroidery capabilities of my Brother Dream. No post, but let’s just say I’m really impressed. Enough to wonder about trading in the paid-in-full Ruby.

The other time suck I’ve been involved in is refitting Trudy Jansen #906 Designer jean. I got sucked-in when looking carefully at the final pics of the Rose Short

I’m most concerned about the rouching that has developed along the side seams. I know that means I have somehow gotten one side (probably the back) longer than the front side seam. How, I’m not sure. I also am concerned with the developing pull lines around the crotch  and the little bubble along the CB. First thing I wondered was when did this all develop.I remember this pattern being beautifully fitting.  I can look back at my shorts and see that the side rouching has been apparent although to a lesser amount for the last 2 years. It’s not really evident in the long-legged pants I’ve made. I mean, there might be a little excess length. I didn’t walk the seams just look at them. So there could be a little excess but I don’t see it. I’m guessing the rouching mostly developed in the conversion from long-legged to short. The issues with the crotch are a different story.  I don’t see them when the pant is hanging on the hanger (the rouching I can see).  When I go back and look at photos, I see the crotch issue steadily developing. This could be due to size change. Lord knows I’ve tried to confront the skin cancer with white donuts. (Which BTW does nothing for the skin cancer either. Oh and does nothing for my other ailments but does make me happy.)But I digressed. This could be due to size changes but I also suspect that my rotary cutter has trimmed here and there accidentally. Bottom line, I think instead of continuing to alter the existing pattern I should start fresh.

And I do. I trace the size 16, which I’ve been using 2 years, from waist to knee notches. Then I trim the inseams and yoke seams to 1/4″; trim side seams to 1/2″ trim all the rest to 3/8″. Cut my fabric; permanently stitch the zipper, inseams,yokes, and baste the rest. I put the shorts on. Correction, I try to pull the shorts up. Foreboding wraps me in his cold arms. With great effort which includes a trip upstairs to lay on the bed, I zip this sucker up.  Either I’ve traced the wrong size or those little white donuts have done more damage than estimated. Enough for one day.

Next day I decide I should really do this right the only exception I will make is not start with a true muslin or attempt the hip line dart. These shorts have always fit. It’s like Trudy Jansen recognized that women don’t need or need as much of a dart as is usually added to the hip line. I slip the tape measure around my hips, then decide I should choose my size from finished measurements. I choose to trace an 18 length wise but 20 width wise. I cut my fabric, a rather nasty polyester, and baste everything except the zipper. I do sew the zipper in place because I’m optimistic about fit.  V2 is not really lovely and I’m surprised that it takes 4 fittings to get it that good. This pattern has always fit beautifully. But then again, I’ve always followed the designers instructions and selected by hip size.  I transfer changes to the pattern because I’m getting such large amounts of change. In fact, I’m beginning to doubt that my recorded finished measurement is correct. The theory is absolutely correct, but you must first correctly identify your personal preferences. (And in Peggy’s defense re  the earlier snark, she says repeatedly her instruction apply to Silhouette Patterns. She even refuses to drape someone else’s patterns because she doesn’t know what decisions they’ve made.)

Onto V3 i.e. Version 3. Despite the fitting photo directly above, I’m feeling  little more confident and select a much better fabric for V3. It is a cotton/poly twill (2% stretch) in a deep, dark-chocolate brown. Makes my mouth water just looking at it. I was definitely improving the rouching along the side which is a combination of (1) the knee notches on the front are higher than the notches of the back pieces. I’m sure. I walked the originals.  (2) The theory is if you take a 1/2″ dart on the front side seam, you need a 1/2″ dart on the back side seam. This isn’t working in actual practice. I think it is basic geometry. I think the curves of the side seam are becoming arcs of 2 different circles and therefore a half-inch change on one side does not create the same total length as the 1/2″ change on the other. You’ll just have to think back to your basic geometric rules. I’m not here to teach any kind of math.

All the pictures have been lightened greatly so that you can see the pant details.

 

So although the rouching is improving, I don’t have it nailed. Also, the crotch is definitely looking short. Which has me saying ??? I did as Peggy directs.  I settled the crotch where it was comfortable for me. And it looked to be of correct length until I started removing excess circumference and making depth changes above the butt. Note: my depth adjustments do not extend to the CF or CB on these shorts. The crotch length is not being affected in any manner.   Despite that crotch, I’m trying to copy  the changes for this fitting to the tissue. DH calls for all garbage (does anybody else try to beat the garbage men to cans?) I clear out some old, old versions of 906 and out goes garbage. Unfortunately, I get confused as to what I’ve done and what I wanted to do. I look at my adjusted pattern pieces and I can’t walk seams. I recalculate. Re-walk. It’s almost like I’ve got pieces from different versions and the garbage is gone.

Day 4 I start over with Version 4. I mean I lost it some place.  I need to start fresh with a clear mind. I keep the same waistband but trace the yoke, front and backs in a straight size 20.  I already know that the 20 has far too much circumference but I think I need more crotch length. Along the way  I’ve decided I prefer a 7.5″ finished inseam and trim the leg-length accordingly.  Once again, I choose a nice cotton twill for my test garment. Once again, I put the zipper in permanently but use water-soluble thread the baste all the other pieces. As expected, the 20 is too large but it’s easier this time for me to see this issues. One of the first things I notice is that the front crotch is not too short, although I’d swear that was the case from looking at those chocolate-brown shorts.  The front crotch is in fact almost 2″ too long. The back crotch however needs every 1/8″ of length it now has. I work at reducing circumference by taking in the side seams 1/2″. I have a depth issue that extends horizontally from mid back, across the sides, to center front — the 2″ excess length of the front crotch. This is not an easy fix. The depth/dart has to be taken on the back below the yoke, otherwise the yoke disappears along the side seam. If I take the dart at the same level on the front, I’ll have a weird-looking  pair of shorts I don’t want to wear –and I’ve already embroidered the pockets i.e. I want to be able to wear this next pair. So I take the dart on the back below the yoke but on the front just below the waistband. Which works on the test garment…

Trouble is the changes have gotten so large, they are hard to handle. Preparing to start another hopefully final version, I transfer the changes back to the tissue. My usual way is to slash and overlap the tissue where I darted the muslin. . The changes are so large that tissue won’t lay anywhere near flat!  I don’t think I’ve ever had that experience before. TBH here, I’ve never hit these personal measurements before and I’m sure my maturing (if you’re not pc that would be aging) body contributes to the new shape I’m fitting.  I actually ruined the tissue trying to slash, over lap, dart …

..and had to trace yet another copy for Version 5.  I am persistent. I will win. Instead of using the slash, overlap or dart, I plot points and draw new curves. For example, on the back I measure the dart depth and it’s position on my test garment, then at the top of the tissue I place a point on the side seam the width of the dart and using the french curve, draw a new curve from the top of the pant back to the dot. Repeat for other changes.  I realize the front needs 2 changes (1) an even 3/4″ removed across the front and (2)  a 1″ dart from side seam to mid front.  The 2 changes make it easier to accomplish the big change. I mean the 2 smaller changes are easier to make on the tissue and keep the tissue flat. I walk seams again and realize that this method has introduced some circumference where I don’t want it. So I move the point I put on the side towards the center by the amount of unintended ease. Hey this isn’t a Craftsy Course. Besides, I’m the only person I’ve heard of that needed to do such a thing, so maybe good clear instructions aren’t relevant.  I chose another nice 100% cotton twill for Version 5. I did a little more tweaking but stopped after 3 changes.

I’m hoping I’ve made these clickable to a larger image so the details can be seen.

 

to be honest my enthusiasm is flagging. I’m continuing this fitting because I want to keep going while the changes are fresh in my mind and besides the pieces from the Rose Shorts (that were closer to fitting than what I have created) are gone with the garbage men.  I’ve learned a couple of surprising things.  I need a size maybe 2 smaller in front that in the back. I respect Peggy. I like Peggy and I know she would tell me I’m wrong… but…  The front above has 2 vertical tucks to remove circumference .  When I increased the side seams 1/2″, I got VPL. When I take tucks in the front, most of the excess ease is removed and the pant looks better fitted.  The fitted front crotch is much shorter than the back. This is typical for me. Always has been.  For a long time I called it a tilted waist. I was tremendously pleased when RTW for which I had to depend upon for work clothing, decided to alter their block and make a  shorter front crotch standard. So, I’m not eager to copy the pattern another time, but I think it might be quicker if I chose a smaller size and then added length to the back crotch. Related to that, it might be easier to trace the pattern and add a Prominent Seat Adjustment which adds both length to the crotch and width across the butt. However, these days I’m desperately trying to follow Peggy Sagers and I’m continuing with the LCD process as I finish the fitting/refitting of TJ906.  But I admit I have 1 maybe 2 more test garments before I’m satisfied.

Four of the 5 shorts test-garments are in my closet. Yes, even though there is room for improvement I plan to wear these at least this summer. When I look at my 2018 summer clothes they may be immediately discarded.  Thing is they are no worse than anyone else is wearing. No kidding. I see shorts in SD that are either tight enough to count pubic hairs or loose enough I wonder why they haven’t dropped around the ankles. Once I get gussied up, my shorts look fine:

906, DG2, Shorts

The Rose Shorts

I talked about the embroidery elsewhere. Here I want to discuss sewing; construction choices.

I’m using a remnant I think from the now defunct Mill Ends in Sioux Falls. I truly miss that store. They had a small section of designer fabrics –rejects for one reason or another. Like too much stock; didn’t use in time; or  crap for fabric. I also have a proclivity for upholstery fabrics. Many are  manufactured in much wider widths and are higher quality than  dressmaking fabrics; also surprisingly,  better priced. (For example, when I considered fiber and width, dressmaking silks were more expensive and of lesser quality than silks in the HomeDec dept).  This 100%, loosely woven canvas came from the upholstery remnants section of the store. Just barely 1.25 yards by 54″ wide. Just not enough for a pair of pants for my frame. Could have been a vest. In fact I think I did consider making it into a vest but never got that done. I need shorts now and I’m particularly interest in grey rather than black for summer.

This is a nonstretch fabric. It does not even possess the “give” of denim. I knew immediately I would be using Trudy Jansen’s 906 Fashion Jean. TJ906 is my goto pattern for nonstretch fabrics and has been or several years.  Long enough for me to have developed several variations. About a year ago, I developed what I call the DG2 Waistband..  OK, I didn’t really develop this waistband. I bought a pair of jeans from Diane Gilman and realized what a sweet waistline finish she had used. I got my french curve and a la Peggy Sagers, copied it.  Essentially, the front is extended at the top to include the waistband. The back yoke and back waistband are combined into a 2nd piece. The waistband pattern piece,  is retained as the facing. Front pockets are not used. They would be a PITA, but optionally stitching which suggests there is a front pocket can be used. (I didn’t this time).  DG2 uses back pockets. Sometimes I do sometimes I don’t.  Lack of fabric was the deciding factor this time and these shorts have neither front nor back pockets. I installed a zipper because hello nonstretch? I need a way to get in and out. DG2 sometimes uses a zipper sometimes not. With the 8″ of stretch in DG2’s jeans they don’t need a zipper.  I top stitched the back yoke seam. Mostly because it has a tendency to twist which can be irritating during wear.  I also did 2 rows of top stitching on the hem mostly because the first row wasn’t high enough to secure the edge. That edge would have rolled again being an irritant during wear. (I’m surprised at how many RTW details can be traced back to making a garment easier to sew or more comfortable to wear. Listen to the hawkers on TV and you’d think it’s all about beautiful you. Nope.) When I installed the facing, I used 2 rows to secure the bottom edge because hey that looks like real jeans but also to echo the dual lines of stitching along the  hem.

Must confess to one heart stopping moment during construction.  I’ve made this pattern so many times that I just assumed it still fit. About half of the shorts I’m wearing every day were made, I thought, with this very same pattern. My existing shorts are comfortable. They fit the way I want. I thought I had both the shorts and long leg versions nailed! My heart stopping moment came when I aligned the waistband with the top of the waist. The CF is marked 1.5″ from the cut edge. The entire waistband was not long enough to finish the upper edge! Even using the 3″ designed as beyond the CF.  What happened?  I don’t remember having this issue before. No remarks in my blog about a too short WB or too long waistline — even when using the very same DG2 waistband center front over/underlap. The only thing I can think of is that I did not cut and sew immediately.  I cut the pieces. Hung them while doing the embroidery and then stitched my shorts. The pieces hung for 2 days. I did not stay stitch or fuse, so it is possible that the waistline had stretched, I just doubt that it stretched 3″.

Instead of taking everything apart, adjusting and restitching, the way my Home Ec teacher would have insisted, I applied the facing, top stitched leaving the edges open along the zipper.  Then I threaded 1.25″ elastic through the channel created by the top stitching.

I stitched the elastic and the facing along the zipper and then again at the side seams.

I Frey Checked the edges of the elastic and trimmed close with my pinking  disk.

That stitching is enough to keep it all secured and the elastic evenly distributed.  The elastic cheat? It’s one I learned/developed several years ago when having to deal with an expandable waist and tailored pants. The elastic is undetectable. The waistline fits no matter how much I eat or how bad the IBS becomes.

I will not change the waistband at ATM. I will keep it in mind as a possible future alterations. What does concern me is that the side front and the side back do not match. After all this time,  I’ve made many pants and shorts, I don’t understand the mismatch. It would be easier to miss in a stretch fabric. I noticed it first with the cavanvas fabric because I had to stretch the sides slightly. Well more than slightly

The sides seams are  really rounded and bubbly. It does almost completely press out

However is evident in the side views:

Have to admit, even the back seems to be a little loose

(I may take these in just a bit after the first wear and launder.)

I looked carefully at my previous shorts and said “Darn. They’ve got it too.”.  Meaning that this excess length has been there a while and not the result of the DG2 waistband treatment.

Well despite that little issue,  I think these pants are just beautiful.  In retrospect, I wish I hadn’t taken the time for embroidery.  Canvas tends to pull free at the seams.  I did use a 2.5″ stitch length at the SM, N (which I think is also 2.5) on the serger. I don’t know what it is about canvas that helps it escape from seams. I just know that I feel a pang of regret realizing this canvas probably won’t last 2 seasons. This much beauty deserves a place in my closet for several years.

906

Something to share

I’m noticing that I dress in black nearly every day. My favorite neutral is Blue. 2nd fav Brown. Black is a safe option. It’s abundant both in RTW and fabrics.  I don’t eschew black, but in my mind it’s not my primary neutral. What’s up with the daily parade of black outfits?

I examined the pants hanging in my wardrobe. At the beginning of winter I had a wide range of colors and weights. As winter has worn on, I’ve discarded a few. Here and there. I found I absolutely do not like the now popular lantern leg. Just. Don’t. Like. To wear.  Think it looks lovely on others and Ok on me. But they feel awkward when worn. Out went the 3-4 pair of lantern leg pants. Also out, thankfully there weren’t many of these, pants with too much ease at the waist. They were a result of sewing pants that had to have enough ease to pull up over my hips and then snuggled at the waist with elastic. Two solutions, 1) don’t make non-stretch fabrics into pull-on pants; and (2) make stretch pants just big enough to stretch up over my bum. Nice to have solutions, but I’m down 3 pairs of pants. Not that I would be nekid tomorrow. I have far too many clothes because I love to sew clothes.  I did encounter a third issue resulting from my excitement at Peggy Sager’s pants fitting procedure. The procedure absolutely works, except that some of my pants have become restrictive across my front thigh. There’s enough ease. But when I move it binds across the front thigh.   I carried the horseshoe dart completely across the front from inseam to side seam. I suspect that from my figure it should have terminated on the inside third of the front leg. Something I can fix in the future, but another 2 pants were removed from my wardrobe because I can’t stand for my pants to bind … anywhere.

So what’s left?  Mostly black pants and mostly Diane Gillman Super Stretch. I need more pants. I can’t live my life exclusively in jeans. I don’t even try.

So I want a few pairs of pants quickly. TNT’s to the rescue. Uh Oh. I was so excited about Peggy Sagers fitting procedure I vowed to refit all my pants using her method.  The one’s I’ve fit so far are going to need tweaking and to my horror, previous fit pants tissues no longer exist. I threw them all away.  How can anyone be so dumb as to discard perfectly fitting pants patterns!

Which brings me to today’s post.  I wanted dark blue or dark brown pants. Preferably blue. Dark colors because the crap they put on the snow has a tendency to mix with oils and crap on the roads; be thrown up onto cars and passersby. This mixture absolutely ruins lighter colored clothing. Dark colors are better at hiding the winter spots.  I look through my stash for winter weight fabrics and discover I’ve been very good at acquiring stretch fabrics.  I chose a chocolate-brown sueded brown fabric because it has the least stretch, 10% but still is a good winter weight.

I traced a new copy of Trudy Jansen’s 906 which I selected according to rear size although that tummy of mine is beginning to warrant consideration. I shortened the leg 3″; trimmed the center back leg and  inseams to 1/4″. Trimmed the crotch to 3/8″ but otherwise cut the pattern as drafted. I serge finished side seam and crotches; installed the zipper and front pockets. Serged the back leg seam; applied pockets…

pocket2_resize
Embroidered the pockets in dark brown while I was working on zipper and front pockets.

…and the inseam before basting the pant together.

The first fitting told me, this pattern was a right as ever! I scooped the back crotch 1/2″ and offset the back leg and yoke 1/2″ to remove the excess length.  That makes the front side seam too long so I trimmed a 1/2″ wedge from side seam to pocket opening at waist.

I find there’s only so much I can do to the fabric then I have to alter the pattern and start again.  Pattern Alterations
Two 1/8″ tuck along waist band

Trim 1/8″ from side seams at waist

Upper leg shorten 1/2″

Wedge 0 directly under front pocket;  1/4″ at side seam; 0 1/3 into back leg

Scoop

back crotch 1/4 curving upward to

front crotch 1/8  — I was beginning to see a little camel toe. Easiest fix scoop the front for a little more room.

 

dscn7439_exposure_resizesidefrontdroops_resize
So this pair is not 100%. More like 97%. I know people who would kill for this good. I see the front needs to be picked up a little bit more. Promise, almost all those wrinkles I’ve marked in orange will disappear.
x_resizedscn7438_exposure_resizeAnd the X wrinkles will go away with just a bit more scooping, maybe a little deeper tuck across the hip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Truth is, these pants are so dark, no one but me (who lightened the pics 100%) is going to notice:

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906

A quick pair of jeans

They were quick. Although ‘jeans’ may be a stretch.My fabric is a 100% cotton, brushed-twill in a deep-dark, almost-black, blue. Brushed twill is a wonderful fabric but not the classic denim that jeans are usually associated with.  However, I think my choice of pattern, Trudy Jansen’s Designer Jean a#906, with all its jean styling makes these jeans.

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Deep dark blue lightened 100%

Back there in late summer/early fall, I discovered that I need new ‘blue’ specifically ‘blue’ jeans. I donated a few pairs of jeans 1 of which was made from TJ906 about 6 years ago. I’m fairly sure it shrunk as opposed to my growing, because the pair I made last year still fit comfortably and the shorts made in June this summer have lovingly been put away for next summer.  So I pulled out the previous copy of TJ906 and pressed the pattern pieces carefully. I noted some pins in the pattern; placed in a narrow dart just under the butt. Reminded me that I had been seeing some slight ripples but not the big ol’ mess in back that I usually have.  I had attempted to correct the ripples last year by pinning a little dart under the butt. Didn’t work. I took out the pins, press out the dart and then made a new 1/8″ dart right at the hip line extended across both back leg pieces.  Then stitched as usual up to the waistband unit which I added using water-soluble thread. Although that is normal. Attaching the waistband with WST for the first fitting is normal for me.  After fitting most pants patterns, I stitch permanently the pockets, zipper, crotch and inseam but use WST for the first fitting along the side seams, waistband and hems. This slight deviation, stitching the side seams permanently, allowed me once last chance to easily adjust the fit. Which I didn’t need to do after all.

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I did not do any fancy top stitching or pocket embroidery.  I really just wanted to get this done and in my wardrobe. I did use a contrasting fabric for the pocket bags and waistband lining because I like to and because the lighter quilting cotton reduces bulk in both the pockets and waistband. Minor goof here, I had intended to triple zig zag stitch but used a straight stitch to understitch the waist band.  I really like the difference using the triple zig zag stitch for understitching along the waistband. Somehow it is much better at securing all that bulk and persuading it all to turn to the underside nicely.

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I used a button closure this time. I like using buttons. It’s really given me the chance to use up strays and singles but I think the slacks hooks hold better. I abandoned those regular jeans button thingys that have to be hammered on a stud. They hold the least well for me, usually coming loose the first wearing.

I made another slight goof with my front pockets. I fused the edge with tape but did not top stitch or understitch. Consequently, the pocket bag had a rolled instead of crisp edge and it wanted to roll to the outside. I knew it wouldn’t be possible to completely top stitch after the fact, so I chalked marks about 1.5″ away from the inner edge and 3/4″ away from the side seam on both pockets, and top stitched between the marks.

pocket_resize

I’m blaming any and all front and side  wrinkles/drag lines on the fact I’m not wearing a belt. These sit just below the waist.  I’ve noticed that with waistband that sit at the waist, all my pants will stay up in place. But the somewhat more attractive below the waist waistband, droops slightly. I really need a belt for those pants to ensure the pant stays in place all day.  Past experience tells me as soon as I put my belt on, all the drag lines seen in the pics will just disappear.

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The back, looks great. No mess under the butt.  I thought I might need to scoop the crotch a little, but it feels comfortable and looks good. I’ve been working on slimming the leg of this pattern. Out of the envelope, it has a 22″ circumference. Much too much for this petite, plump lady. I’m down to a 19″ circumference but would prefer 18″.  With each new pair, I’ve been making a little dart starting at pant leg hem slowly decreasing the circumference.  I didn’t continue to reduce the circumference this time because I was tweaking for the under butt wrinkles.  On previous patterns, I discovered that there is a point at which my narrowing of the hem starts introducing drag lines around the knees. I’m still not really sure what causes those wrinkles, so the narrowing will continue to be a slow process.

BTW, I’m not just proud of these pants for their looks. I also love that I stitched them up in less than 6 hours (I’d never make it in one of those sweat shops. I’d be first the first day. First morning.) I’m really loving that I’ve used an old Walmart fabric. It has to be older than 10 years.  I’m also delighted to have used a non-stretch fabric and achieve a comfortable result. As good as my Talia’s look, they don’t feel this wonderful. Point is, I’ve noticed that I tend to make the stretch fabrics into pants and leave the non-stretch marinating on the shelves. Stretch fabrics are more comfortable to wear. The stretch makes up for any lack of fitting. Truth is, non-stretch fabrics have to be made into good fitting garments.  Not just good fitting, because the Talia’s are good fitting, but near perfect fitting. The better the pants fit, the better they feel. I’m reluctant to use TJ906 for all my non-stretch pants, but maybe I should?

 

 

906, DG2, Shorts, WaistBand Collection

DG2 Waistband

I want a second pair of jeans shorts. I also want to tweak the shorts pattern just a little, (legs are too long) and I want to try out a waistband treatment from my favorite Diane Gilman jeans.  From the outside my DG2  Jeans look like they have a typical contour waistband. In fact, I wore them several times before realizing it is a faced, cut-on waistband with top-stitching in strategic places.

I pulled out all the pieces from the jeans shorts just completed days ago.  I trimmed 2″ from the bottom on the leg. I think knee-length  dresses, tunics and shorts make me look shorter and stubbier.I think it’s just a proportion issue. Because I lengthen my dresses just enough to cover the knee brace, cut the tunics and shorts higher and the stubbiness goes away. Well, not completely because I am over weight and I am petite.

I traced the front and the yoke onto new paper and added 2-1/4″ (the width of my contour waistband) to the top of these two pieces:

I decided not to use front pockets, at least this first pair. I can get things ‘off’ with pockets so for a test garment I like to omit them.  But I do want to use top stitching to suggest there are pockets.  I traced along the top of the waistband and down the side seam about 8″.  Using my curve, I marked a hand opening.  then I trimmed along those lines to create this new piece:

After laying out and cutting my fabric, I align the new piece (now a pocket template)  with the side seam and waist of the front’s fabrics

and chalk along the bottom edge of the template:

I should mention, I’m already running the embroidery machine at this point.  I’ve found that I can maximize my time sewing if the embroidery machine can run while I’m doing other things. This combined with the lessor amount of embroidering I am doing, is becoming so successful that I may not need a stand alone embroidery machine.  I’ve chosen a leaf/vine like pattern and wanted more of a tone-on-tone effect vs the typical gold jean stitching. Of course I still wanted the embroidery  to show up.  My fabric is a dark grey blue. I chose dark blue grey embroidery threads but they read much brighter in the pics:

While the embroidery was stitching….

Normally, I would use the waistband pattern to cut both a waistband and a facing.  This time I needed only cut the facing. I also cut one interfacing.  I’m not sure that’s good or not. I prefer to interfacing both sides of the waistband and I won’t be doing that. I load sewing machine, serger and cover stitch with thread.  I serge-finish the side , waist and crotch before switching to the cover stitch and stitching along the chalked line of the fronts.  I proceed to insert the front zipper and stitch the two back pieces of the back leg together (I am using TJ906 with has a 2-piece back leg.)

At this point, both pockets have been embroidered. These faster embroidery machines are wonderful. I finish the pockets which involves hemming, and attaching to the back of the pant at the cover stitch machine. I use SAS to turn the edges under neatly and secure for the cover stitch machine.  I wanted to work on making the stitching at the point crisp. My bright idea was stitching to the point. Stopping and pulling the thread to the underside and repeat on the opposite side of the pocket.  Then tying the loose threads at the point and sealing with a drop of Frey Check on the underside.

I think it worked really well.  It is an extra step. Sometimes an extra step is worth taking.  I continued my usual construction routine with a few minor changes. I made my belt loops at the cover stitch as usual but I cut them 4.5″ long instead of 3″ so that I would be able to place them exactly as desired along the faux waistband. I also discovered that somehow in adding equal amounts to the top of the front and yoke made the back side longer than the front.  My first thought was I had put the yokes in backwards i.e. the deep end goes to center back and it’s not unusual for me to put the deep end on the side seam and have to rip it out. But, no, the yokes were correctly stitched.  I wondered if I did the calculation of how much to add correctly  (waistband width – seam allowances at leg top and waistband edge). I added the same to both. It shouldn’t change the overall length.   Did I trim the same amount of length from the leg bottom when adjusting leg length?  This is a close-fitting pant. My pattern pieces are really shaped. The excess, about 3/4″,  is not in the lower portion of the leg. It is between yoke and hip.  So I eased the front to the back

placed the leg over my pressing ham and steamed well.

Not perfect, but really good.  It perplexes me.  I used the same fabric and essentially the same pattern.  My only other thought is I had somehow stretch both side, back pieces. It’s something I need to watch for when I makes shorts again.

I added the facing and then top stitched through the denim and the facing fabric approximating a contour waistband.

Back
Inside

Note, I didn’t develop an overlap.  I’ll be wearing a belt, so these will probably stay up and closed. But I’m always uneasy about that and also added a tap and button to the inside:

Fit surprised me. I needed to increase the side seams 1/8″.  Why this time?  I used the same fabric last time and 3/8″ SA on the side and back leg seam.  This time the side seam needed to be 1/2″.  Other than that, fit is about as expected:

 

Which I know you can’t see because they are so dark.  Trust me, they look and feel pretty nice. I think the SOG should change on the yoke. It just didn’t feel right when sewing. My real issue is that all the top stitching I did, doesn’t really show up. I didn’t achieve the desired result i.e. copying the DG2 Waistband. My shorts look like a cut-on waistband. DG2’s looks like a contour waistband.  Maybe if I had used gold jean thread it would have been more apparent. I was copying DG2 as much as possible and she used the blue thread.  So for next time I’m purchasing jean thread in jean blue or jean black.  Also I think I also want to increase the tension so that the cover stitching tunnels just a little.  I think that would add to the illusion.