DraftingFitting, Truing

Truing the Pants Sloper

After the short break with the Rhombus Wrap, I turned my attention back to drafting pants from personal measurements.   Suzy has you trim the front and work against the back. But I am uneasy, even having check measurements and calculations, twice. I am uneasy.  I traced the front and back and trimmed the front but left 1/2″ excess tissue.

I feel relieved that we are addressing the  whack-a-doodle crotch first:

Suzy places the front inseam together. Her’s meet. Mine form a big void. I rewind and find that they should meet at the knee line and the crotch point. Oh, OK. Try again (that’s the pic above). Well void is still there but continuing on…..  Suzy then insures the crotch makes a nice U. She flattens the point which formed where they met. She also draws the back crotch a little deeper to keep the back crotch shape.  I do nothing to mine.  I’m wondering still if I have lined up the crotches correctly.  Next, and also a relief, we measure the crotch.  My number is 29. Thank heavens it is also the number I got from My Bowl shared in the post a few days earlier. My pant crotch however measures 25″.  I am 4″ short. Da^^^^! I was hoping to find the pant crotch too long and I could chop some off, redraw the curves and be singing. No, I need to figure out how to add 4″ which Suzy doesn’t really explain.  She talks and gives example of “less than an inch” . Always if the “difference is less than and inch”  I do nothing to the crotch but continue to follow the lesson.

I find that my waist needs to be squared off slightly. Suzy says it is up to me and I choose to make the front lower and match the back. ‘Fraid I’m reaching back into my fitting solutions with other patterns.  I always need to make that seam shorter at the waist. So for me, shorter it is, even if only 1/8″

We also make sure the side seams mirror each other and are the same length.  Once again I change the length but again by less than 1/8″

I know I am nit-picking. maybe needlessly. But I need something to do besides stand there and listen to Suzy. Besides, it doesn’t hurt to be this careful at the tissue stage.

We compare inseams from hem to knee. Mine is good. My HBLs match, probably because I traced back off the front. Suzy wants us to check, so I do. Comparing the inseam from knee to crotch point however reveals more difference.

They do not match. I change the back inseam, moving it out to match the front. I see another concern. On the IPAD screen I am seeing  her crotch lines are at the same level.  I remember very clearly, because I had to change my crotch level and a couple of other lines too, that she said the back crotch line should be 1/2″ lower than the front. So what is right? Should I have left the back crotch at its original level? Could that be why the curve is so odd? It also means that the crotch points are not the same level. I wonder how much that contributed to the awful crotch point shape.

We go on to measure inseam and side seam.  My side seams match, so we’ll just skip that. But my inseams, Good heavens!  I “rewound the tape” several times to see if I was measuring the wrong place.  As far as I can tell, I am supposed to measure from the crotch point along the inseam curve all the way  to the floor of both the front and back inseam.  I know these measurements are  not going to be close. I remember that whack-a-doodle crotch 4.75″ long with a front crotch just over an inch. If I have added 3″ more to the back, how can they match.    I was not surprised at the results

  • Front Inseam:  32
  • Back Inseam:  34

That is a 2″ difference. I was expecting more.

All along the draft for the back leg has added much more than the 1-1.5″ ease used in the calculations. I know right now, even without a test, I’m going to be grabbing handfuls of fabric over my back thigh below the butt. Handfuls! I especially wanted to get away from that.

I started feeling apprehensive when taking the measurements. Standard height for high and low hip is 4 and 8.5″ below waist. Mine is 3 and 6. I promise you that is right. If I measure 1/2″ above or below the 3 and 6″ the measurement becomes smaller. Even Suzy says you want to measure at the widest level.  If I  moved the levels down, then I would not have enough ease at the wide points but have too much at the revised levels. Doesn’t make sense to me. Oh and my waist has never been 1/4″ above my belly button. Not now, not when I was 13, weighed 96 pounds and had a waist.    Another question when taking measurements  was the thigh.  Again, I measured at the widest point and recorded that and the level from above the knee, all as instructed. When I drafted, I thought “WOW those are close together” but Suzy had said they could be. I again hesitated/stopped/rechecked when drawing the crotch and inseam. They were so weird.  Especially when I compare with my pants that do fit. I have nothing that odd even pants I have altered greatly to fit.

I’m not making a muslin. Next lesson is common fitting issues. I will watch even though I don’t hope to find the answer. I need a time out. Maybe I’ll watch Netflix instead.

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PS Suzy is not at fault. I have boundless admiration and respect for her. The skirt sloper worked perfectly, except for my dart error. I keep thinking I missed something. I did something wrong.

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PPS I count this as a “crash and burn”.  May have licked my wounds and shed a few tears, too.  I had hoped by drafting with my own dimensions I could make a pant muslin that, for once, was close to fitting.  I even had this tiny bit of hope a pant sloper would be as much of a success as the skirt sloper. I guess it’s just not to be. I haven’t thrown the tissues away. They are folded neatly and filed away.  I may get smarter. It has happened before. I could figure out what went wrong. I did with the skirt sloper.  And then again, you, dear reader, could offer suggestions to make it work.  You have before.

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