Happy Pant, Knee Dart

2.5 Hour Pants

OK what’s not true about these pants?  A 2.5 hour completion time doesn’t take into account the fabric prep, tissue prep and layout; and machine set up which I did the day before while cleaning up the sewing area.  The 2.5 hours starts when I walked downstairs and made the first cut.  It ends when the pics were taken.  So, of course, I haven’t included anytime for blogging.

I knew I wanted to make these pants as soon as the brown pair were done.  On the brown pair I had tested a suggested from J Sterns Designs to correct the belling of the leg.  I needed to transfer the change to the tissue and cut new fabric to be sure the alteration works as expected.  The alteration is simple, a 1/2″ dart placed along the inseam just below knee level. But I was tremendously surprised at how that changed the grainline.  I kept the grain line centered in the lower leg (below knee) and extended the line all the way up.  The upper torso and leg obviously shifted course.

This radical change stopped me in my tracks.  I was thinking “its time for darts and a fitting waistband with zipper” or “make pockets”. I’ve sewn the same pant over and over and I’m just a little tired. But the important thing with this pair is checking the alteration.  I was afraid that if I changed construction or details it might contribute to a new emergent problem or even be the cause.

Hence the polyester, crepe fabric (30% stretch widthwise 20% vertical) which was cut same as the wide-leg  non-stretch Happy Pant. i.e. stretch is not a fitting factor for this pant. Finished hem circumference is 26″. This isn’t a palazzo either–no added ease across seat or tummy.

And I”m happy!

..but I may have over corrected.  I may have made the dart too deep. Now it seems to be belling towards the inner leg instead of the outer.  Well that’s an easy fix.  I actually made a dart in the  leg.  I didn’t cut and overlap because I was still concerned at the placement and depth.  It will be easy to reduce the depth of the dart and try this again.

Still hangs beautifully from the sides.  I ignore the stuff right under the gathered waistband.

I took these pics, the hitched up the back just a fraction.  They felt like they were sitting just a little low at the waist.  I think the leg wrinklers would practically disappear if I had pulled them up that fraction while taking pics.  It’s the thing I dislike about gathered/elastic waistbands.  They are comfortable and adjust to you during the day.  Big pluses, in my mind. But they can also migrate. My favorite WB is  straight, fitted and stays in place.