I spent the previous 2 days starting the September Gussy of my sewing/stash rooms. One the tasks took longer than I planned but I found myself asking some questions about that last muslin (The Vanessa with the crotch dart).
So first thing today I played with my ideas
- inseam dart 1/2″ (1″total)
- Knee level position
- Combined inseam dart and knee level tuck
- what happens when these are shorts instead of long-legged pants.
Showing the inseam dart on the left leg …
I actually took the time to mark on the pant leg where the pattern knee level was and then with the pants on where the center of my knee is. The pattern is 1″ lower than my body. I made a 1/2″ deep (1″ total) tuck above the knee. Important to note that the Knee placement uses a tuck taken evenly front, back and sides; while the inseam dart above takes a 1/2″ at the inseam tapering to zero at the side seam. The inseam dart changes the angle of the leg. The tuck does not it only makes it shorter.
I encouraged with the results,, I put both inseam dart and knee-length tuck on the same leg
This is a leg I could wear without a lot of dissatisfaction if it were not for the visible dart and tuck. Then I wondered if this pattern will act like past patterns and be fine when converted to shorts. I chopped 19″ off the bottom of the leg, hemmed and bam!
I have a wearable garment. OK room for improvement. It needs the side seam dart I make (horizontal to the waistband and about 3″ down). Also, I can really see how much ease is in the back leg. I’ve already removed 1″. Now I pinched out 3 more for a total of 4″ I’d like to remove. Oh and there was still ease left. I’m not crazy enough to make skin-tight woven pants.
Mostly importantly I have a more ideas for fitting. I’m really zeroing in on that 4″. The rest is reasonably fit, IMO.