3200 Sally's Pant, Elastic as Waistband

Embroidered Summer Pants

So into my stash I dug to find an excellent poly cotton in light blue. This is such a wonderful fabric. I wonder if it is still in production because this came from the old Walmart $1 table over 2 decades ago. At the time I bought 5 yards of every color they offered. Sniff, not only are those days over, this is the last of those fabrics; a fabric that handles and wears so well.

I didn’t spend an inordinate time choosing my embroidery design.  Knew immediately that it would be something small with lots of repeats.

A single motif would have had a lot of embroiders complaining it was too small to be any good. Repeated 3 rows and umpty-frat number of times across a 22″ hem it becomes impressive. Oh and took 4 hoopings, total 207,352 stitches and 3 days to finish. (4 bobbins, three 5000-yard spools of machine embroidery thread.) But it was worth it.

I used Silhouette Pattern 3200.  I had slimmed the leg hem. Originally it was 22″ and I slimmed it down to 20″.  I wanted a fuller leg. Something I wear occasionally even though I know the slimmer leg is more flattering and works with more tops. To make the hem fuller, I laid the fabric out, placed pattern pieces on top and with my tailor’s chalk  drew a vertical line from about thigh height to hem; angled to add 1″ at the side seam hem. I was envisioning a wider hem, but this is good.

Not only is the leg width not the best, this is also not a flattering stance!

I had to do a little playing to use the Elastic as Waistband method that Peggy Sagers introduced in her 3-Piece Yoga Pant Pattern 3418.  Initially, I had a lot of trouble wrapping my head around this waistband construction.  I even wrote Peggy whose response was something to the effect of just read it carefully and you’ll get it.  I did; and I grew to like this application even though initially it  seemed really weird to have visible elastic.   I’m wondering, will the feeling the white elastic looks like my underwear sticking out, will I get over that  and start liking the white elastic?  Time will tell and I’m not really sure it matters since I usually wear my blouses untucked which totally covers the waistband anyway.

So as I started to say, I needed a little playing to get this right for SP3200.  I cut the fabric as usual; serge finished all the edges; stitched the side seams and then spent 3 days embroidering the hems. Construction felt like nothing from that point. I zoomed through serging the inseams and stitching the crotch. I didn’t bother fitting because I’ve used this pattern many times after working at the fit through the first muslin. But I stopped at the waistband to ‘give it  think’.  My fabric waistband finishes 1″ wide. Sits at the waist and extends 1″ above. I like it. It feels secure unlike some of these low-rise crotches that I swear will be revealing all in seconds.  I cut my elastic the usual length for this brand. I am using the WAWAK 2″ elastic.  Developed quite a fondness for it but I keep a record of each elastic I purchase and the length that finally fit for me. All elastics are not all the same. For example, another excellent elastic I purchase from Cutting Line Designs is not snug enough unless I cut it 7″ shorter than my waist circumference. I joined my elastic in a circle by butting the ends and using a 3-step zig zag with a short length of bias tape beneath.  Really makes a nice flat join. Up to this point construction was pretty much typical with a 3-day break to embroider.  My thinking on the waistband went like this:  I’m using a 2″ elastic. I don’t want it to sit or extend higher than a fabric waistband would sit. So I need to trim some length at the top of the pant. How much? Well normally my WB extends 1″ above the waist which I still want. So 2″ wide elastic  -1″ wide WB,  would leave 1″ of elastic unneeded. Turn the thought around and that would be 1″ at the top of the pant not needed. Unsure because the elastic application instruction have me stitching 3/8″ above the bottom edge of the elastic, I basted the elastic to the pant 1-3/8″from the top of the pant. A quick try-on told me my initial thinking was correct. Spritz and rip the elastic from the pant and restitch after placing the elastic 1″ below the top of the pant.  Perfect!

And here it is worn with the camp shirt finished just days before:

:

Man, I can just see me walking barefoot down the beach!

 

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3418, Elastic as Waistband, Silhouette Patterns

3418: Depth (darting) Issues

If I had been following Peggy’s Pants Fitting Procedure, at this point I would reach back there and pinch a dart across my rear to remove all the wrinkles and mess below the seat. That does work. It works for me.  I was so excited when I first discovered the effectiveness of a hip line dart, that I trashed all my fitted pants patterns and refit using Peggy’s LCD process. Trouble was, the hip line dart worked only for the first wearing or two. Then the pant, regardless of pattern used, would change and I’d find that mess again. By find, I mean I would be taking pics of back view of tops and see the wrinkles on my backside.  My first thought had been to increase the hip line dart.  At one time my dart was 2″ deep (4″ total removed from back crotch length).  The result is that the waistband no longer sits level at the back waist-it dips- and the cheeks are — well I may as well not have worn anything. That’s how well they were silhouetted. So I had to trim the crotch. I’d trim away 1/4″ at a time until my cheeks were no longer “ghosting through”.  The pants would look great!!!  Just wonderful —– for the first wearing or two. I’ve no doubt the hip line dart was helpful, but it wasn’t the full solution. With B5682, I chanced upon a longer crotch length. Initially I had expected to trim away some of the stride length.  To my surprise, the first B5682 looked much better than any of my other pants (excepting my RTW DG2’s). I added a little length. Holy cow!  Not only did the back wrinkles go away,  they didn’t return.  I’ve been carefully watching my first few makes of 5682 (first use Oct 2017) and the wrinkles don’t return. Ah ha! I’m onto something.

So when I trotted downstairs to work on the depth issues of 3418,  rather than pinch a hip-line dart I ripped open the inseam. I let  out the inseam 3/8 both front and back thereby adding length to the stride of the crotch. And more pics:

OK s there are still wrinkles but I had to ask, how does this compare with before I made the adjustment:

 

Before Adj ——————————————After Adj

I’m going to say that adding the 3/4″ length (3/8*2=3/4) improved the wrinkles but not that much. Did it affect the rest of the pant negatively:

Not much.  The right leg is still be affected by my knee support. Interestingly, the front crotch key hole is a little more pronounced.

The original keyhole has gotten larger and is now flanked by 2 ghosts.  The tummy area itself looks better

I’m rather surprised by this development. At least this time I did something to the crotch which could have caused a change. Hmmm in fact I did 2. All the previous day  I had felt like the crotch was still a little long. But took no further action.  Today I not only made it longer by adding length to the stride, but I also settled my waistband more comfortably and definitely lower than the day before. This action would have put more fabric into the waist to crotch area. Well, not more,  just compressed it into the area. Sort of like a corrugated tin roof. Before the tin is corrugated into little ripples it’s quite a bit longer and straighter. Next up, time to tweak the crotch length.  I’ve had this in the back of my mind since the first crotch length adjustment. Now it is time to do it

So I go downstairs and decide I need to take the WB off to adjust the crotch length.  Then I decide I may as well remove the 1″ added back at the tissue stage because I obviously didn’t need it and I projected I would be struggling with even more fabric than before.  Once I got the WB off and the extra I added trimmed away, another thought occurred to me.  Sort of like the TV ad where the guy has been hunting a car. A girl comes along and finds it in 2 secs. His sarcastic reaction “Well, let’s just do it your way.” Remember that?  It’s about the way I felt.  I’ve done my best to avoid this waistband because the way I read the instructions, I don’t like the process or final result. But as long as I’m back to Peggy’s draft, I may as well take a few minutes and “do it your way”.  Hey Peggy, this would be a good Thursday topic. Either I didn’t read the directions correctly or the waistband was not easy. I’ve already posted my experieence HERE. It’s important to note, that after apply Peggy’s WB, the crotch feels right and this is the final look:

Which sadly did not further improve the fit either front or back. If anything, front looks worse. So time to try the Hip Line dart and face the fact, this really is going to be a muslin.

Let’s speed through a bit. I made a 1″ deep hip line dart (removing total 2″ from back crotch).  Didn’t see an improvement with the fit, so I made a 1″ inseam dart. Well judge for yourself.

W WB  ————- Hip Line Dart———-Inseam Dart— original

I’m honestly stumped. None of my alterations has so far achieve a noticeable improvement in the fit of the back leg .  I would say that the hip-line dart actually looked better by itself than the subsequent addition of the Inseam Dart (taken at the top of the right inseam). All views are only slightly better, if at all since the first fit before I made any corrections. I am disappointed. I have fit Silhouette Pant Patterns 3200 Sally’s Pant  and 3414-Woven Yoga. Both had the huge leg associated with plus size patterns (finishing with 20-27″ hem circumference). They are not perfectly fit, but look far better than the any of the pics above. I’ve been adding a little at a time to the stride of the 3414 making the rest of the wrinkles disappear a little at a time.  I’m pretty happy with 3414 and keep making more pants with it. So what now?

I don’t know maybe it’s time to think a bit more.

 

 

Elastic as Waistband, WaistBand Collection

3418 Elastic Waistband

My sewing angel and I have been talking back and forth about this very interesting waistband.  I have a couple of fitting posts, but I wanted to share this now so she could see my pics. Read quickly because if Peggy complains, this whole post is going in the trash so quickly you’ll wonder if I even typed it.

Peggy says this a simple waistband that you will just love.  When I settled in to really making it, I had to read a single instruction  (like a single sentence  and sometimes half a sentence)  and execute it and then read the next. I’m adding my pics (you’ll have to buy the pattern to see her pics because I’m very certain copyright covers her pics).  Here it goes

First part is easy, no page numbers but titled “Prepare Waistband” .

Cut elastic to the length you like, join it in a circle. 

OK, got that. Can do. Moving along through the assemble pant stuff and stop at “Attach Elastic Waistband”

With Right side of elastic waistband against Right Side of pant assembly, and with the elastic seam matched to center back of pants, pin band to pants aligning the pant top edge to the center of the 2″ wide elastic “

I read that and thought “God in heaven what does this mean?” So I grab my elastic; scratch my head, look ahead and decide we’re trying to aligning the top edge of the pant to the middle of the elastic.

Well I’ll never be able to keep that straight and attach to the pant, so I start by basting a line along the 1″ center of the elastic

Moving on:

Align the elastic seam at center back, then divide evenly to align elastic to center front of pant and then at side seams

Crap how am I going to keep that straight? Pinning comes soon but I’m never going to make the matches with pins or under the needle without some help. So I find the half way point of the elastic by folding in half with back on one fold and front on the other.  Chalk mark.  Refold the elastic to front and back match and now the folds indicate the quarter point side seam marchs. Chalk mark each. Here’s a sample of one of my chalk marks.

Can find those when needed, so onward!

Stretch elastic evenly to fit those sections. Pin in place before sewing.

Another instruction I understand and can do. Here’s what it looks like from the inside of the pant

ie pant aligned to the middle of the elastic and pinned in place; and here it is looking from the right side

Next instruction was  a duzy to me

Stitch through both layers of pant and elastic, stitch 3/8 inch from top of pant edge…

Holy cow. I look front side; back side. Scratch my head again and then align my SM’s foot with the edge of the pant edge and stitch. Looks like this on the pant inside

and here it is looking from the other side

BTW I’m using water-soluble thread in the bobbin because I’m thoroughly confused and thinking I may need to rip this out several times.  But I continue steadfastly

which will be 1-3/8″ from the top of the elastic band. 

I pull out my seam gauge and take a measure:

Hey! Checks out so I may be doing something right after all.

Flip top edge of elastic band to inside of the pant.

That’s an action shot. I can hardly give you decent still shots. In fact I apologize for the blurriness of some of my photos.  I took 2 or 3 each step of the way and shared the best.

The wrong side of the elastic will now be inside the pant and the seam of the pant will be in-between the elastic and the pant.

OK, flip the elastic and take a look.  Looks interesting, not sure I like this and about 90% sure I’ve done something wrong.

Do not secure the elastic with any additional stitching…. waistband will be held in place when on you body… Only 5/8 inch of the elastic will show from the right side of the pant.

 

Well hush my mouth. It does:

Full view

Instructions go on to say the elastic will stay in place without any further stitching. I have my doubts, but I will try it out. Also I’m like 99% disliking the look ..b-u-t… it won’t be visible when I wear it because I always wear my tops out not tucked.

I must admit  that returning the pant to the drafted crotch length was the right thing to do.  The crotch looks and feels about the right length both back and front. (Please ignore the upward/downward traversing of the waistband. My waist is like a roller coaster.)  Peggy always says to trust her and (hanging head) I really should have.