After the last 2 pairs of shorts (here and here), I expected to do some serious fitting. I think I know what’s going on that the shorts never fit the same way twice. First my body is constantly changing. Almost like when I was a kid. Except it is chemo + steroids that is making the changes and I’m not growing up, I’m growing out. I’m looking more and more like a little Buddha. A second factor is the different fabrics I use. If I used the same exact fabric for every pair, I could expect the same results. I’m trying to use up the stack of fabrics I’ve been saving especially for shorts. The fabrics are not long enough for long pants. Some are only long enough for short shorts. Some are relatively new, 1-3 years. But there are many that are much older 6-15. Like this rayon checked print I think I bought in Utah at least 15 years ago.
Back then I had picked up a remnant and made shorts. Loved them Surprisingly, that tiny eye-torturing check looks good with almost any other fabric i.e. all the tops in my wardrobe and the rayon wears well requiring little upkeep. It is a medium weight rayon. Neither light like rayon-challis nor as heavy as rayon crinkle. And it made a fantastic pair of shorts. Before the season ended, I bought the rest of the fabric on the bolt. I’ve made new shorts every few years and now there is just enough for this final pair..
As for fitting, I had decided that something went wrong with the slash and spread alteration I did. I removed that. Literally. I untapped the addition; squished the slash together and taped it in place. Then I add an even 1″ vertically along the side seam dropping it straight down from the hip to add a little flare at the hem. I was also concerned with crotch length. So I added 1/2″ evenly along the inseam.
Repeat for front pattern thus adding 4″ ease where it mattered, stomach and butt. I remembered that the “poof” wasn’t completely gone and increased the back crotch dart another 1/4″; total 3/4″ deep.
I laid out fabric and pattern pieces before leaving for the evening. I returned the next day; cut out the pieces; serge finished and then basted all seams together. I’m using the same elastic waistband. I like the way it fits. So I cut and completely finished the waistband before basting it into place. First pics were a stunner. I”m not even going to show them because they were that good. 3rd session and I finish the shorts completely. Even gave them another press (could use a little more).
Front and back crotches are pretty nice. Could have pressed those hems a little more carefully but my initial impression was to say “Was it that easy?”.
At first glance the sides are equally good. In fact, there are people that wouldn’t even notice the things I will critique. My first critique is in looking at the curve of the back leg from hip to hem. It shouldn’t. Curve that is. I added enough ease that this should be a full leg; no shaping after the hip just straight or flared a little; close to a culotte look; definitely not a slacks fit. I looked at the back seat and again and realized that it might be a little close across. This was all present during first fitting. I decided then to leave as is because the shorts look good, they’re just aren’t the look I wanted from this garment.
I’m using the right side to illustrate but both sides look the same. The pink line shows have the waist is pulling forward. I’m not sure why. There is lots of ease and it didn’t pull forward on the previous shorts. You can see the top of the pant gathering into the waistband. Between waistband hip doesn’t look unduly tight. I’m not sure redistributing the gathers would help or if I truly need to add a full tummy wedge or redraft the waistband.
The other thing that really attracts my eye is that the side seam doesn’t biset my body. I’d say that 1/3 is back and 2/3 is front. I’ve had the issue before. Several years ago. I think what I did was remove 1″ ease from the front (using a vertical 1/2″ deep tuck) and add to the back (with a 1″ slash and spread). Because my shorts may still be a little tight across the hip, I wont remove any ease from the front. Next time that is. These are finished and being worn just as they are. I mean, nobody but me is going to notice the “issues” I just pointed out. Am I right?