3200 Sally's Pant, Shorts

First Summer Shorts

I was pretty happy with my shorts supply when I swapped out my winter for summer clothes.  I reasoned that with 6 pairs and I enough to go all summer. I knew I would want to add a pair or two just to make something new and also to keep refreshing the wardrobe. Shorts are, after all, something I can count on wearing every summer. I had a rude awakening when I started actually wearing my shorts. I had forgotten that all these were made before I finished tweaking my TNT’s, Peggy Sagers 3200 and Butterick 5682.  Pair had something seriously wrong.  One pair was fine while I was standing, but I couldn’t sit. Seriously, they had no stretch and would not give enough for my body to bend into sitting position.  How the heck did I wear those last year? I have not gained weight. The scales at my doctor’s office are steadly going down. Not rocketing to the bottom, but a pound less when I visit (my visits are quarterly). I’m 6 pounds less now then when I made the shorts. A few pulled sharply down at CB whenever I sat. Well, I have no intention of running around with my bum showing, so into the Goodwill box they went too. I’m left with 3 pairs of shorts which is not enough during hot weather. Time to start sewing shorts!

First pair is cut from a black and white stripe of cotton/poly seersucker. I don’t care whether seersucker is in or out, I love it for summer garments.  Most of my life, it’s been the fabric I could count on to look the same on a summer afternoon as it did in the morning.  I’d rather be slightly rumpled all day then to look like something the cat hacked up in the evening. KWIM?

I had already traced 3200 for shorts length. I did myself a favor by tracing it for the longest length shorts I would want and then marking fold lines along the leg for shorter versions. Now I folded it for the 4″ short.  I chalked an extra 1″ onto the sides and added 1-1/4″ length at the waist for a fold over waistband. My 4″ inseam is actually marked at the 5-1/4″ level to include the hem so no need to add for a hem. I wanted pockets so dug through my patterns until I could find what I call the CLD pocket.

The CLD pocket is really a thing of beauty.  Louise Cutting includes this pocket or instructions for it  in a number of her pants patterns.  The front side seam is faced at the pocket opening. A single pocket shape (you can vary it) is attached to the back side seam. The pocket attached to the back is placed under the front and top stitched. Yeah, so not clear. It is an easy pocket application. Has the virtue of never gaping; can be added after the fact (with a little seam ripping) and made from a scrap. But you do need to follow an exact procedure or you’ll muck it up. I did. I forgot to read the directions and missed steps resulting in some ripping and creative sewing..  Have a nice pocket, but this could have been so much easier.

I wanted to work some more with the new CS and used the 2340 to top stitch pockets and hems. Hems were fine — I’ve got a new if still awkward procedure for removing the work — but those pockets had me screaming. I used the pocket shape with sharp corners. 2340 does not make nice right angle turns. I had quite a mess..

.. which I top stitched at the sewing machine

trying to at least secure the pocket if not make it look a little better.  I was frustrated by the time I finished and even suggested, to myself, that I put the Janome back up and set the 2340 aside until I triple needles was the exact look I wanted.  But I remembered that it wasn’t all that easy when I first got the Janome 900CPX.  For months all I would do is a hemming stitch. I can remember letting out a deep relaxed sigh each time I completed a decent hem. It was months before I would try anything else. I haven had the 2340 but 3 weeks. Already I pushing it and probably myself.

Note: I can now see real advantages to my Janome 900CPX over the 2340CV.  The 900 is much easier to thread and to remove the work from machine. Removing the work from the 2340 is a real fight that seams to be accompanied by either rethreading the machine, or unintentionally raveling

the hem and having to over stitch at the sewing machine. Also, having 3 needles means threading THREE needles with THREE cones of thread. That’s just not going to happen with some colors. In which case I will be winding a bobbin to use at the 2340. I don’t like a lot of fuss. Sewing: YES. Fuss and futzing: NO. Threading is futzing.

A second goof, probably the first really because I did not add enough length for a fold over waistband.  I made it work but I must have spent 10 minutes measuring, pinning, folding etc. I think though my measuring was just a little off. These both look and feel just a little close in the crotch

Happily a little scooping took care of it but I don’t seem to have pics after the scoop.

Next time I’m going to read the pocket and waistband instructions. It’s nice to have a multitude of techniques to use, I just need to be reminded of the construction details before I cut.

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Airlie, StyleArc

SA Airlie: The Muslin

Finding a suitable muslin was a challenge.  I first measured the fabric sent with the pattern, a Bengaline. I have had a couple cuts of American Bengaline. Still have one in the muslin stack. American Bengaline is nothing like the fabric in hand. For starters American Bengaline is 70%+ polyester where the Australian is Viscose. The American stuff is therefore nasty to wear. In the summer it is hot; winter cold. Slightest touch of water causes bubbling which cannot be pressed-out. The pant must be washed and then, dear heaven, it needs a little steam which once again bubbles the fabric. Nasty stuff. But this Aussie stuff is definitely a different animal. Crosswise stretch is, as advertise, 0%. The length wise stretch measured 60% but the fabric looked like the belly and thighs of the woman who had 6 kids in rapid succession i.e. shredded.  I backed off the stretch to 40% which returned the fabric to a pleasant appearance. While I prefer pants with a little stretch, I have little pant-approrpiate with 40% stretch. Only one in the muslin stack and it would not be suitable for this slim pant.  My personal experience dictates that my slimmer pants need a little body to them and much less drape to support shape. Finding nothing suitable in the muslin stack, I hunted in the rest of the stash for something that I’m pretty sure would work with the slimmer pant but I wouldn’t mind sacrificing. Nearly all the suitable pants were in the $20-40 per yard range and I just could not cut into them. I did at last select a ponte purchased from Fabric.com. It is a printed fabric which reminded me of the prints I’ve been seeing on pants since about February.  Not a cheap fabric, but not likely to be used for the intended purpose due to color.  This is another case where I saw what I wanted instead of what was actually published on the page. The fabric was a cream and navy print,  mostly cream.  I took one look and said “Not on my hinny.”.  I try to keep my bottoms muted, dark. It’s an effort to visually balance my hips with my narrow shoulders and upper bodice.  Mostly it works. But like I said, I can lie to myself and end up with a fabric that won’t work well for a pant but can as a top.  I was considering another Idye experiment, but opted to use it as a muslin for Airlie.

One of the beauties of a muslin is you don’t have do everything carefully. I mean, no finishing of seams. No pockets,  cut away and ignore hems. I use water-soluble thread in the bobbin for easy ripping. I had the pieces (just using front, back and waistband), cut, basted together and in pics in less than an hour. Let’s take a look:

I think the front looks nice. There are small, nearly vertical folds under the waistband over my right  tummy (left looking into the pic) and some diagonal folds above the hem on both legs. I wouldn’t worry about these, except I am fitting. The waist is much larger than my own; a combination of the pull-on pant needing to be as big at the waist as the hip and my having added the wedge at center front as well as increasing the side seams by 1″. I’m not sure the wrinkle over the tummy portion is an issue. Is it the result of the excess circumference? The circumference distribution when I pulled the pant up? Again, if I wasn’t just starting fit, I wouldn’t worry. I’d be pleased to wear it.

I can’t say I’m upset about the side view either.  Both have near vertical folds in the same general area. This is not a legging. Airlie is a slim pull-on pant.  I added ‘fit insurance’. So I definitely increased the circumference over the intended draft. Again, not sure this is really  a fitting issue…

The back is; and I expected it.  I was pretty sure that back crotch upright was too long, but I hesitated to cut the excess until I could verify.  Let me take you back a second. The crotch length and it’s division between back and right/ upright and extension involved a string of calculations and lots of room for error.  I’ve learned the hard way, that I can make the work  smaller not larger at a  later time. So even though my calculation said “take away from crotch upright’, I waited until I could physically verify the calculation with my muslin.  I expect a lot of the wrinkles below the hip and over the legs to disappear when I shorten the back upright, 1”. In the muslin, that’s a simple action of removing the waistband and restitching it 1″ lower at CB.

Beyond the back crotch upright correction,  I think I’ve moved into the range of actions required to fit a garment to my bodily anomalies.  When I looked at the crotch (let me refresh your memory)…

… I realized that it was the typical straightening of the curve where the upright and the extension drafting-lines cross. Because I have the high-low anomaly…

(Look it up in Palmer Pletch “Pants for All People”. It’s only one short paragraph in the fitting section. Easy to miss.)

… my crotch needs to dip below the crotch extension line at least 1/2″ and then rise to join the extension line. I knew that wasn’t my crotch.  I hesitated to cut into the tissue before making the muslin. I don’t know why. I will now before Fit #2.

A secondary note, this print does not look bad on me. I had assumed that it would add pounds to my appearance.  Is the look because this is a slim pant? Dark color? Have I become accustomed to seeing other women with horizontal striped pants?  Something else?

Fit#2 surprised me with its comfort. I wasn’t even aware the Fit#1 wasn’t comfortable until I slipped these on.  It was like the recent sandals I bought. The previous sandals felt find, until I slipped my foot into these, with their built-in arch support. I let out an immediate sigh of relief. Same thing with this pants. Suddenly, noticeably comfortable. But I still had some issues on the back side. Now, I clearly saw the upward diagonals pointing to the crotch. Crotch needs more length.

.

What to do? I’ve been here before, the experts recommend, add a gusset and trim to desired size.

My issue with gussets is that when I stitch the pant crotch it must form a smooth curve going through my legs; and that seems to remove as much as I added:

The Fit#3 pictures tell me this wasn’t a successful alteration.

But I knew that as soon as I tried it on. Comfortable fit: GONE.  Felt better in Fit1 than it does now.   CF nows rides high, while CB is pulled down. Otherwise, the front looks relatively the same. The back,  although there has been some lessening of the wrinkles, as a minimum remains unattractive if you don’t think the CB pulling down increases the ugly factor. The only good point is that starting with Fit2, the pant has not looked too tight across my rear yet I have not let out any seam to gain more circumference.

There must be a better way to add a gusset.  I use the patch method.  Please don’t suggest the diamond.  I’ve never been able to wrap my head around the math and sewing. At least, I can easily add a gusset by using the patch. The trouble here is the length required.  I added 1″ length to both back and front. But, as you saw above, I probably removed 3/4″ when I stitched the crotch with a  smooth curve.

Sadly, I must pause and place this muslin in the back of the sewing closet. Despite my favorable response to the stripes, I doubt that I will ever finish it but I may need to refer to what I’ve done so far.  I used to be able to fit Style Arc pants easily before my last age-related physical change.  You study all about the growth of children into adults but very little information is provided about the period from adulthood to the grave.  It seems to be something we each  have to grapple with on our own.  There are solutions. Most of them seem to be either terrible fit or shapeless. Please understand, I don’t actually feel harsh towards RTW or pattern cutters. At least not anymore. Truth is our body continues to change through our daily living habits as well as accidents and disease and that change continues through adulthood albeit unnoticeable until it is a problem.  Most of the change is  unique to the individual. I am problematic because I refuse to accept either shapelessness or terrible fit as solutions.  I do see  possible actions for me in working with this pant pattern.  I need to pause because  I need more 40% stretch fabric and I need it cheap. I anticipate another muslin or two.   I can’t fit long-legged pants with shorts. My combination of physical features create those back issues only with*1 long legged pants.  So I need to order fabric which can take 2 or more weeks.  Secondly, I need to do some research and testing on some ideas I’m having. That takes time. Finally I was so excited about the pattern that I dropped several project in progress. They await me.

But I do want to say, I’m liking this pattern so far.  That clever pocket, is sweet.  I can’t wait to use it. A 3-piece pant is quick to sew even when you do all the pockets, hemming and finishing I skipped for the muslin. This pattern, as all Style Arc patterns, was beautifully drafted. I had no issues with the pieces going together even with the several changes I did at the tissue stage. I’m convinced that’s because I started with a well drafted pattern. I will get back to it. Promise.

 

__________________________

*1 Several years ago, I used a Burda pattern for long-legged pants to make shorts. All summer I made short after short by simply folding up the leg to my desired inseam. Thinking all the issues solved, except maybe length, I purchased nice fabric for an autumn pant. I was shocked. Horrified!  The back suddenly develop more wrinkles than seen above. On me, the leg length/inseam makes a tremendous difference in what I need to do to fit pants.

 

Airlie, Arlie W/Video, StyleArc

Style Arc Airlie

Not sure how to pronounce Airlie but it’s a new pant pattern from Style Arc. Has a really neat pocket and SA gave is a VIDEO of the pocket construction. Also it came with its own fabric, Bengaline.  I bought the Denim blue.  It takes a while for things to reach me from Australia and I shoved it to the back of my mind.  When it arrived I was excited and had to work on it NOW!

For me, prep work is the key, followed by a test fitting garment and finally ‘real’ fabric.  Yes I have been following Peggy Sagers fitting procedures . I still like them. I still recommend them but I find there comes a point when I have to stop and adapt for my personal anomalies. For pants that’s a large front waist, tilted waist, high-low back crotch, and short legs. This last year I’ve also found that adjusting for the depth of my body is very important. So it’s not enough that the crotch has the total length but that length has to be placed where I need it.

The first thing I did was start checking measurements. Style Arc lists the finished measurements in the brief pattern instructions. Which is how I discovered I bought the wrong size. When I looked at the measurement chart I saw  metric and  imperial charts. “Hallelujah!” I thought, ” I don’t need to convert from metric to inches.”  When the pattern arrived and I started checking measurements I realized I bought from the finished chart not the recommended size chart(which is the metric). I’m starting with a size too small.   Since I waited so long for the package to arrive, I decided to see if I could adapt.  I pulled out my favorite pattern, 5682, to measure. It involved measuring equivalent places and then subtracting seam allowances before comparing to the Style Arc Finished Measurements chart. For the crotch, I needed to add in the waistband (less seam allowances). You need math. Not interstellar distances, but tiny bits that make sure your pants go ’round your butt.

A half hour later I said “Huh.” All the measuring. All the calculating;  and I’m probably not doing anymore than I did to my Silhouette Pants patterns.

The crotch and tilted waist have me concerned.  I like the look of this crotch:

 

Nice scoop in the back, little hook in front. In total, there should be enough length but when front and back are compared separately, the front needs another 1-25″ while the back should be 3/4″ shorter. Additionally each crotch extension needs to be increased 1/2″.  OK so I add to the front take away from the back. But do I add at the top of the front crotch? Split between top and inseam? Do I reduce the back crotch upright by 3/4″ or by 1.25″ since I need to stick 1/2″ on the back at the inseam? I used to do long math strings all the time. Believe me, it makes lots of room for error. Sometimes to solve the errors, you have to work each change in turn. Not that hard todo in programming/computers but in sewing we’re talking 4-6 test garments? Oh and should I have reconsidered the effect of the waistband? See, many wrinkles.  The logic is not all the easy for me to sort through.

So decision for Test garment 1:

  • -2″ leg (As always. I have short legs. That doesn’t change no matter what pattern I buy.)
  • +1″ to side seam allowances
  • +1/2″ CF wedge (that tummy of mine has to have room yours’ does not.)
  • +1/2″ Front Crotch Extension (the body depth issue)
  • +1/2″ Back Crotch Extension (the other half of the body depth issue)
  • +1″ at top of CF. (the rest of the depth issue. You might think length but it’s really a continuation of the CF wedge to fit over the tummy)

I will not have a well-fitting pair of pants with the first test garment. But I should have enough length, circumference and depth to be ready for some real fabric. Off to check required stretch and choose a muslin fabric!

 

 

 

3200 Sally's Pant, Elastic as Waistband

Embroidered Summer Pants

So into my stash I dug to find an excellent poly cotton in light blue. This is such a wonderful fabric. I wonder if it is still in production because this came from the old Walmart $1 table over 2 decades ago. At the time I bought 5 yards of every color they offered. Sniff, not only are those days over, this is the last of those fabrics; a fabric that handles and wears so well.

I didn’t spend an inordinate time choosing my embroidery design.  Knew immediately that it would be something small with lots of repeats.

A single motif would have had a lot of embroiders complaining it was too small to be any good. Repeated 3 rows and umpty-frat number of times across a 22″ hem it becomes impressive. Oh and took 4 hoopings, total 207,352 stitches and 3 days to finish. (4 bobbins, three 5000-yard spools of machine embroidery thread.) But it was worth it.

I used Silhouette Pattern 3200.  I had slimmed the leg hem. Originally it was 22″ and I slimmed it down to 20″.  I wanted a fuller leg. Something I wear occasionally even though I know the slimmer leg is more flattering and works with more tops. To make the hem fuller, I laid the fabric out, placed pattern pieces on top and with my tailor’s chalk  drew a vertical line from about thigh height to hem; angled to add 1″ at the side seam hem. I was envisioning a wider hem, but this is good.

Not only is the leg width not the best, this is also not a flattering stance!

I had to do a little playing to use the Elastic as Waistband method that Peggy Sagers introduced in her 3-Piece Yoga Pant Pattern 3418.  Initially, I had a lot of trouble wrapping my head around this waistband construction.  I even wrote Peggy whose response was something to the effect of just read it carefully and you’ll get it.  I did; and I grew to like this application even though initially it  seemed really weird to have visible elastic.   I’m wondering, will the feeling the white elastic looks like my underwear sticking out, will I get over that  and start liking the white elastic?  Time will tell and I’m not really sure it matters since I usually wear my blouses untucked which totally covers the waistband anyway.

So as I started to say, I needed a little playing to get this right for SP3200.  I cut the fabric as usual; serge finished all the edges; stitched the side seams and then spent 3 days embroidering the hems. Construction felt like nothing from that point. I zoomed through serging the inseams and stitching the crotch. I didn’t bother fitting because I’ve used this pattern many times after working at the fit through the first muslin. But I stopped at the waistband to ‘give it  think’.  My fabric waistband finishes 1″ wide. Sits at the waist and extends 1″ above. I like it. It feels secure unlike some of these low-rise crotches that I swear will be revealing all in seconds.  I cut my elastic the usual length for this brand. I am using the WAWAK 2″ elastic.  Developed quite a fondness for it but I keep a record of each elastic I purchase and the length that finally fit for me. All elastics are not all the same. For example, another excellent elastic I purchase from Cutting Line Designs is not snug enough unless I cut it 7″ shorter than my waist circumference. I joined my elastic in a circle by butting the ends and using a 3-step zig zag with a short length of bias tape beneath.  Really makes a nice flat join. Up to this point construction was pretty much typical with a 3-day break to embroider.  My thinking on the waistband went like this:  I’m using a 2″ elastic. I don’t want it to sit or extend higher than a fabric waistband would sit. So I need to trim some length at the top of the pant. How much? Well normally my WB extends 1″ above the waist which I still want. So 2″ wide elastic  -1″ wide WB,  would leave 1″ of elastic unneeded. Turn the thought around and that would be 1″ at the top of the pant not needed. Unsure because the elastic application instruction have me stitching 3/8″ above the bottom edge of the elastic, I basted the elastic to the pant 1-3/8″from the top of the pant. A quick try-on told me my initial thinking was correct. Spritz and rip the elastic from the pant and restitch after placing the elastic 1″ below the top of the pant.  Perfect!

And here it is worn with the camp shirt finished just days before:

:

Man, I can just see me walking barefoot down the beach!

 

603 Tapered pant

Verson 3

I’m skipping Version 2 of Petite Plus patterns #603 Tapered Pull on Pant and moving right along to the 90% successful completion Version 3.  I used a golden brown corduroy, 25% stretch and sister fabric to the oyster corduroy used in Muslin 1.  This is a really good fabric. Designer cut purchased from Fabricmartfabrics.com several years ago.  While I won’t wear white pants, I do wear light colors but I wear them in the summer. Corduroy, to me, is a winter fabric. So this fabric sat on the shelf  because it had a winter hand for a summer garment.

I have 4 sets of photos in which all the fronts are arranged, all the backs etc. I like to see the fit as it progresses..

…with Fit01 on the far left progressing through Fit 2, 3 and Finished on the far right. Actually, I did only 3 fittings before calling it done.

Fit 1 was just the pattern changes after Muslin 1 …

  • shorten leg 1″
  • shorten back and front crotch 1/2″ (using 1/4″ tuck)
  • use size 18 inseam
  • use 1/4″ back side seam
  • use 1-1/2″ front side seam

…and was a chance to see how those changes came together

As I studied those pics I decided to scoop before the next fitting (Fit02).  Generally, I don’t scoop until I have made every other possible tweak–probably a knee-jerk reaction that of listening to all the designers out there that scream “Don’t touch my crotch”.  However, I’d already tried a number of things with Muslin 1.  I was seeing rouched side seams, an odd front crotch and a too tight butt.

 

Also note the tilt of the side seams above.  They slant towards the front. However as fitting goes along I corrected that  though the elastic to WB application. As long as I perfectly quartered the pant and the elastic, the side seams would tilt forward.  When the pant waist is perfectly divided, the quarter mark is about 1.5″ on the back side of the side seam.  By matching the side seam with the quarter mark on the elastic, the tilt has practically disappeared in Fit 04.

Although in front the crotch was my biggest concern, I also noted it seemed a little big while the back a little small.  For Fit 03 I opted to offset the side seams so as to remove 1/2″ from each front (1″ total) and add 1/4″ to each back (1/2″) total.  At the time, I would have added more to the back, but that was as far as I could let out the back side seam.  I also walked the side seams of the pattern and found that I had a 1/2″ length difference in the leg and a 1/4″ difference in the height.  It is simplest to trim, so I trimmed both pant and pattern resulting in nearly all the rouching disappearing in Fit 04.

After Fit 02, my sewing angel recommended I scoop just a little more than the 5/8″. So before Fit 04, I added a 1/4″ scoop (7/8″ total) for the final fit.

Suddenly, the back is no longer too small but the front is still a little large. FINAL PICS:

  

In some pics I see the knock knees in others I don’t.  Which makes me wonder whether to take action or not. I also finally see what my Sewing Angel saw in Fit01, the front crotch is too long. That woman has an eye. She says she can usually fit a pant pattern with 2 muslins. I can understand why.  I mean, the front crotch length looked and felt fine to me right up through the final pics. It took me 3 fittings to see what she spotted in the first 5 minutes.

 

At the beginning of this post, I estimated a 90% success. My 603 has the ease of a trouser. I was looking for a semi-fit of the slack.  I might have been able to use a smaller size, the 14. It’s kind of a rumpled pant. I sort of expect that out of corduroy but in my life I have had some really nice sharp corduroy jeans. I much slimmer then. I also need to at least address the X wrinkle of the back knee which is screaming “Knock Knee”. I’m going to try the dart at the top of the inseam. It just feels like I have enough ease over the knee itself, so why would the fabric be pulling at that point? What I’ve heard and what most full bodied ladies experience is that in adding crotch length to go around our stomachs and behinds, the angle of the pant legs increases. That may be something you have to see to understand but the solution really is straightening the leg way up there by your special place.

So it’s good. I plan to wear these because, there’s nothing wrong with this:

..except my hair.  I haven’t had a good hair day in 4 months.

*******

NET PATTERN CHANGES

  • shorten leg 1″
  • shorten back and front crotch 1/2″ (using 1/4″ tuck)
  • shorten front crotch an additional 1/2″ with dart
  • Trace size 16 but use size 18 inseam
  • Add 1/4″ to back side seam (size 18)
  • Use size 16 front side seam.
    • these 2 actions move the ease from back to front
  • Scoop back crotch 7/8″
  • 1/4″ inseam dart
  • Walk the side seams to ensure they are equal in length.

 

 

603 Tapered pant

603 Fitting

Next morning, I took another look at the very First Fitting pics.  My enthusiasm totally evaporated. I copied the pics and starter superimposing lines upon the wrinkles and folds.  Some folds and wrinkles said nothing to me.  For example, there is a series of almost crosshatching between knee and ankle.  The previous day, I had thought the leg too long. Now, I wasn’t so sure. So my planned first alterations changed completely. I ripped open the leg where the vent would have been and left it open. Then traced the size 18 inseam and basted at the stitching line. Ready fo the 2nd fitting.

Second Fitting:

At this point, I was  sure the leg was too long. Ripping open the vent, allowed the pant to fall into a pile on the top of my foot instead of stacking up in folds from the ankle all the way to the knee. The side view immediately looked somewhat less rumpled. Many of the wrinkles dropped away in front too, at least to the knee where they resumed  piling up down to the ankle. However,  the front crotch keyhole began to ghost through.  Happily I thought, the back was much better than Fit 01.  The stark diagonals between waist and tush are gone. Remaining of course, are vertical wrinkles under the WB which are part and parcel of  a gathered waist whether it’s gathered by elastic or some other means.   But the tush still looks  tight;  and there is still a fold under the tush albeit considerably reduced from the first fit. The diagonals along the inseam are lessened. The front inseam only has a ghost of the diagonal lines. Stepping back and looking with squinted eyes, I realized there is a big X wrinkle in front, ghosting i.e. not in your face obvious but there. I might not even have noticed it a few years ago when my fitting senses were less sharpened.  I can say the same of the back, ghosting plus the lower legs of the X are shorter. Which means I have done something right.

******

Dear Diary,

I started the next session, Fit03, by letting out the side seams 3/8″ (a full size) and taking 1/2″ tucks in the legs. The pants have an admirable 13″ hem circumference. I love it, but not when the length results in folds  around the ankles (similar to dropping my drawers when sitting on the porcelain throne). I realize for Fit 3, if I want to maintain the hem circumference I so admire, reducing the length has to be done further up the leg. I took 1/2″ tucks on each leg to shorten the length but I took the tuck above the knee on one leg and above the ankle on the other. With a tapered pant, it matters where the leg is shortened. I’m happy to report, most of the leg wrinkles have just dropped away following those changes. I’d say shortening the leg was a winner.

Decreasing the depth of the side seam allowances is a mixed bag.  I can plainly see what my sewing angel spotted in the first 5 minutes (or less) of viewing the original fitting pics: to the crotch is too long both front and back.  Alas I  now also see something Peggy Sagers says is impossible: I need less circumference in the front and more in the back.  I need to get over this and realize experienced sewists will not all have the same opinion.  That is her experience; her opinion. Mine is different and while it works for fitting clothing to my body, her experience could be more applicable to the vast majority of female figures.

Fit 4, I’m going to remove the tucks and fold up the leg 2.5″.  I will love that wonderful 13″ hem circumference but can’t preserve it this time. Fortunately when I make the change to the tissue,  I can make it above the ankle and after redrawing the cutting line  the 13″ hem circumference will be retained.  I think this muslin may make it as Winter 2018 PJ’s and so for now the hem circumference will be wider than the designer planned. Also for  Fit 04, I will offset front to back side seams 1″.  I’m jumping all the way to 1″ because that is what I have successfully used for other patterns. I can change it if that’s wrong.

Right now I need to figure out how much to shorten the crotch depth, so in Fit 04 I started with a 3/8″ tuck just under the waist and all around.  When I’m sure what needs to be done, I can trim the excess length crotch length  and reinstall the elastic WB.

Making the changes above did work quite as expected. I realized with Fit04 Pics, that I had done as much as possible with this fabric. So I started making permanent changes to the pants and alterations to the tissue.

I started by trimming the 1″ off at the pant hem and tucking the pattern leg 1″ so that future versions will be the right length . Then I moved onto a tuck across front and back below the waist 3/8″. That had been too much so I backed off a little. I trimmed 1/2″ from the waist of the pants and tucked the pattern just below the waist band 1/2″.  Since I was unable to remove enough ease from the front and add as much as I desired to the back, I reduced the side seams to 1/4″ . Then trimmed the pattern 1/4″ along the front side seam, but added 3/4″ to the back side seam.  I serged the inseam at the size 18 stitching line.  I usually leave my crotch at 3/8″ but so much handling has frayed the area and so I serged along the basting line reducing the SA to 1/4″ but basted at the size 16 stitching line.  After that, I serged the WB elastic to the top edge of the pant; turned and top stitched before totally finishing by hemming the pant leg.  I think it is interesting that I tried so many things but there is really not that many net alterations.

 

I recognize there is still some fitting I’d like to do but this muslin is done, done all the way done. So   I’m  sharing it as far as I was able achieve fit

I think the above final version is considerable better than the first fitting shared below:

 

 

 

*************

NET CHANGES

  • shorten leg 1″
  • shorten back and front crotch 1/2″ (using 1/4″ tuck)
  • use size 18 inseam
  • use 1/4″ back side seam
  • use 1-1/2″ front side seam.
603 Tapered pant

Petite Plus Patterns: Tapered Pull on Pant (603)

In doing a purge of my patterns (a required activity as I have no more storage room and can no longer even jam my fingers into the boxes), I came across this pattern purchased long ago  and apparently totally forgotten. It calls for 2.5 yards of either 45 or 60″ medium weight fabrics with 25% stretch. I checked the stash for something usable as a muslin. Truth is, I have more failures than successes with pants patterns. I expect success after 2+ muslins and innumerable fitting sessions and alterations; OR I expect flat-out failure. I love pants, but dang I have a hard time fitting them. So I checked the stash and happened upon this oyster-white, thin-wale corduroy. I love corduroy. I immediately think of it for winter pants. Why I bought oyster or any flavor of white is beyond comprehension. I do not wear white pants. Never have; and here I’ve bought a fabric especially for winter pants that I won’t wear. But it will make an excellent muslin. After all it had the right amount of stretch and the called for length of fabric.  A real plus is wrinkles and pull lines are easy to see in white (as well as underwear and cellulite but we won’t dwell on that.)

I vacillated for 2 days trying to figure out what size to trace and cut. OK I had two other projects in progress and putting off a 3rd one is more of a no brainer than stroke of earnest thought. I have made one other PP pattern in the past, the jean, I don’t have the pattern any more which greatly surprises me. I don’t recall any fitting issues or difficulties but I do remember finishing and wearing those pants until my figure changed. (Hmm my figure seems to be changing as often after 60 as it did before 6.)  I didn’t dwell on the past too long but started trying to figure size. As usual I’m right between sizes (14 and 16 to be exact).  I decided to compare with the crotch of  5682 because I really liked that pattern’s fit and appearance. That’s when the head scratching started. A size 14 crotch was  2″ too shorter in the stride (the part that goes between the legs) I’m a bit insecure over this. I finished 5682. Then altered 3200 and 3414 to the shape and length of the 5682 crotch. However 3418 was a disaster no matter what I did to the crotch, inseam, hip , anything.   Like I said, I debated with myself and finally decided to trace the recommended size 16 and the inseam of each of the other sizes. Admittedly a weird choice and truly indicative of someone who can’t make up their mind.

I cut my fabric; loaded the bobbin with water-soluble thread and basted everything together. No seam finishing. No serging. No trimming or clipping. Nothing but basting that can be removed with a spritz of water.  I did not have 1.25″ wide elastic. I’ve 1″ , 1.5″ 3″ also various 1″ and less wide elastics. But exactly 1.25″ as the pattern specifies, missing from my stash. Well not a big problem because I had WAWAK 2″ wide elastic (SKU : #EL52WH) in black and white on hand.

Side note:  I think this elastic is equivalent to much more expensive 2″ elastics sold by some Indy Pattern Makers for a much higher price. Wawak sells 12 yards currently for approx $9.  I bought mine on sale for $6 and bought both black and white. (Don’t forget the $5 shipping). Like other highly touted elastics, it can be cut down and both resulting widths used as desired. If  a thread happens to be cut during trimming to desired width, just pull it out. The elastic will not continue to fray. I think it is a good elastic; good buy. But as always YMMV and you might already have a favorite. Frankly, there’s nothing as good as your very own trusted favorite. Oh, I have no affiliation, was not asked to advertise , did not receive a discount just the usual good service yada yada.

Back to the pant construction, the waist band uses a tried and true procedure. Cut elastic to desired length and mark the quarters. Mark the quarters of the elastic. Zig zag one edge of the elastic to the upper (raw) edge of the pant waist. Turn down once and top stitch. Multiple times if desired, but this is a test and I top stitched with WST only 1 time before calling out:

“Alexa, Take a Picture”

Default SA is 3/8″.  I added 1/2″ at the side seam and basted said seams at 7/8″ which to me means I stitched as drafted for size 16.  I told you I traced all the inseams. Now, I folded my tissue along the size 16 inseam. Using a purple pen, I traced what should have been the size 16 cutting line.  When I stitched the inseams, they are stitched at the size 16 stitching line. Yep big ugly inseam at this point.  Without steam, I pressed open the side and in- seam allowances before stitching the crotch at the size 16 drafted stitching line.  So I have basted all seams along the size 16 stitching line be. Turned up the hem and clipped in place using Clover’s clips and

BLOW ME AWAY:

I can’t remember the last time a pant looked this good at the first fitting. I’m tempted to finish and wear it as it. With my long tops no one is likely to notice the issues. I’m going to discuss the back mostly. The sides look fine and the front not really bad although it might get tweaked along the way. Let’s start at the top Waist to Hip

The waist feels comfortable. Yes there are wrinkles all around. That’s why people like darts and zippers–to avoid what we call bulk at the waistline.  I am curious about the 2 diagonal wrinkles that almost meet at center back  just above the biggest part of my rear.

Looking from hip to cheek and just beyond, I think I might need a little more ease back there.  It would help the excess below the cheek slide up. One additional concern though is the front crotch

I think it is saying “little more tummy room please?” but I’m wondering if I don’t hear a slight please of “just a tisch more crotch length too.”

Continuing on and looking at the back from cheek to knee

This is not the bad mess I was seeing and could never remove in 3418.  There are not endless pull lines along the back inseam. But it is the same excess ease which I nearly always end up tolerating.  I think part of what is here indicates the need for more tush room which would allow the pant to slide up and redistribute the crotch length  a little. Also, I can’t really see but I feel like the crotch has pulled down at CB. Allowing the pant to slide up would help.  The other thing I’m really considering though is from Knee to ankle:

Generally the diagonal lines pointing to the knee  indicate my knock knee appearance (I refuse to admit I have knock knees. My knees do not turn inward even when I lock my knees back, but they do have a padding of fat on the inside which gives the above result). Generally they appear unless I’m wearing tights or 24″ wide legs (or when I weighted 118#) . Anything in-between and I’m forced to decide whether to ignore the diagonals or make the alterations.  For me, there is one possible easy alteration for knock knees. That is using the larger size inseam.  Used to do that with Burda for perfectly fitting pants. I’d trace a size 44 but use the size 46 inseam.  Worked like a charm until my 60+ body changed again.

Here they are for anyone who says, “I’d like to see the front and sides before I make a recommendation”:

When I get back to this tomorrow, I plan change to the size 18 inseam and stitch the size seams at 3/4″ instead of 7/8″. Wish me luck. Oh and pray I don’t ruin this one too.

3418

3418: I officially quit

I give up on this pants pattern.  Before I get too far, let me say that even if successful,  I would not wear this pant.  It is too close-fitting for my taste and I started by tracing 2 sizes larger than my hips. I would not call this a yoga pant or even a skinny pant. It is to me in the same category as long johns and tights.  My Sewing Angel noted the same thing i.e. too tight to wear in public but easy to construct. The single review at PR said in effect she had no problems She was quite positive about her entire experience. However she did not provide a modeled shot. Only a front hanger pic. No back view. I will echo her comment that it was easy to sew. Pants nearly always are easy to sew, it’s the fitting which”bust my chops”. The PR reviewer made a size 14 in 1.5 yards of 60″ wide fabric.  For my first pair of size 24W I used 2.50 yards of 56″ fabric; 1-7/8 yards of 60″ of Ponte fabric.  This may not be quite the fabric hog I originally estimated. I may finish the two pairs I made to wear as PJ’s or even long johns but I will not wear them in public and I will not make any more. My copy of the pattern is on the way to the trash if I can’t get it back in the envelope to donate to Goodwill (they do accept uncut, complete patterns.)

My first fabric was Knit Ottoman with a unusual 40% cross and 70% lengthwise stretch.  Possibly I should have laid out the pattern cross grain as we do with Bengaline. The stretch factor always bothered me so before giving up I made a second pair of a nice RPL Ponte with the typical 20% stretch both ways. I started by basting together the pieces and situating the crotch so it was comfortable for me and marking where I wanted the waist. Things went down hill from there. I tried

  1. adding crotch length both front and back
  2. decreasing crotch length both front and back
  3. adding crotch extension (stride) length  both front and back
  4. decreasing crotch extension (stride) length both front and back
  5.  decreased the inseam depth
  6. increased the inseam depth
  7. crotch SA remained 3/8″ through out
  8. increasing side seam depth
  9. decreasing side seam depth
  10. increasing the center back seam depth
  11. decreasing the center back seam depth
  12. serging replacing basting.
  13. stitching with walking foot
  14. added  Peggy’s Hip line dart
    1.  transferred to the tissue for the 2nd pair made in Ponte
    2. removed from the Ottoman so I was working with original draft
  15. Added Peggy’s top of inseam dart,
    1. transferred to the tissue for 2nd pair made in Ponte
    2. removed from the Ottoman so I was working with original draft
  16. Shorten the side seam length
  17. ripped out the crotch seam 2″ on either side of the inseam and let it hang
  18. stitched that back together at 3/8″
  19. added a knock knee adjustment
  20. removed the knock knee adjustment
  21. scooped the back crotch 1/2″
  22. Repeat all for Ponte pair
  23. I made many of the adjustments in 1/4″ increments stopping and reversing the process around 2″ when I could start counting pubic hairs through the fabric.

I havent thrown either pant away–both are in time out. Winter is coming to an end and I wont need PJ’s before Nov 2018 so I’m in no hurry to nail all the seams/hems/elastic WB finished, add a knit top and  declare 2018 Winter PJ’s ready for use. So if you can suggest any changes not listed above, I’m willing  and have plenty of time to test anything I haven’t already tried.

**********************************

Last fitting of Knit Ottoman Version

Ottoman Pics have been lightened 89% to better see drag lines/wrinkles.

1/2″ scoop was made and can’t be undone

.

Last fitting of RPL Ponte version

Ponte Pics lightened 20% to better see drag lines/wrinkles

Ponte tissue and therefore the pants themselves include the hip line and top of inseam darts

Scoop has been made and can’t be undone

TIA

3418

3418: The Oddest Thing

I re-read my posts on Peggy’s other pants (the ones I’ve fit). Contemplated overnight what could be wrong. What could I do? What hadn’t I done? During the evening, I made a list of things to try.  I was preoccupied with my knitting machine and the TV, but the brain kept turning over and over. What the heck was wrong with 3418? Especially since I had previous fit 2, TWO different Silhouette Pant Patterns. This one should have been a breeze. It hit me with my morning coffee.

I carried my coffee into the big PC and looked at the back of my pants again, but from a different mental perspective

I had been thinking the reason for more wrinkles on the right leg than left was that the right leg  hanging up on my knee support. That’s something that happens. I ignore it. I need my knee support. If the knee support shows , well tuff. But with coffee flooding my veins and firing up my brain, I started asking was that really the problem?  Was the knee brace causing more wrinkles on the right? I was reminded of something I haven’t seen in a long while.  Know how aggregating it can be to top stitch the lapels of a tailored jacket?  You’ll have one side or even 2/3 of the top stitching just beautiful.  The rest will look great beneath the needle and even when you first look at it. But as the fabric relaxes, PUCKERS. Poop. A long, long time ago, think sometime in the 1980’s, I watched a girl in my college level textile classes struggle with a velvet pant. One leg was perfect. The other twisted. The instructor kept saying “try this…” and list a bunch of things. So seam ripper out and carefully remove stitching and just as carefully re-stitch because, in those days, you could ruin velvet just by stitching. Labs were 4 hours long. She was at it when I got there and still working when I left,  late as usual. She fixed it. At home.  In sheer desperation, she ripped both seams and stitched from the same direction same side i.e.  she stitched both seams with the front leg towards the feed dogs and from hem to waist. BTW, in those days we had little 7″ or less harps.  It was a big deal to get the fabric on the other side of the needle to perform this directional sewing. Not like my Dream Machine where I can roll up a king size quilt and shove it in the harp with room to spare.   Her directional stitching  worked! Twisting gone. Seams straight. Garment A+.

So I asked myself, could this be happening?  Did the action of stitching cause the seams to slip or rouche? If so, how could I know?  How could I test? At the big PC,  I pulled up the last pic of the back of the pants and looked carefully. Then, coffee splashing along the way, I trotted downstairs and laid my pants out on the cutting table and allowed them to relax. Umm, I did see a little rouching with the pant lying nearly flat.  All the trouble I had laying out this fabric at the beginning flashed through my mind. After all that effort, could I have shifted the fabric?  I’m one that listens to the fabric/ I do not pull threads or mark the grain.  I smooth the fabric until it is happy to lay smoothly. If it is skewed then, I dump it.  I’m not convinced I can un-skew a grain. Tried numerous times. First time through the wash, the garment is horribly skewed. Thing is, I did think I had carefully laid out the fabric and was disinclined to think my problem started before I even laid out the pattern pieces. Without thinking, I grabbed the right leg and popped the inseam and center back leg seam  in several places. It’s one of the unheralded advantages of WST .  WST will snap with a sudden exertion of force.  I was relaxing the tension of the seam. Can’t explain why my left brain suddenly took over and command my hands to pop those theads (he’s usually pretty retiring, shy, submissive”) but the result was:

Most of the wrinkles just dropped away!  I spent a whole day, well a whole sewing session of 4 hours working on those wrinkles!!!! Umm do I really need the inseam dart?

Without   ——————– With

Do I really need the hip line dart?

Without   ——————– With

I’m not really sure.  I see there are some more lines on the right leg. Possibly I need to pop the seam some more and release even more tension. But the left, looks only marginally better with the hip line dart (I never did an inseam dart on the left).

BTW, what’s happen on front?

WOW that front. Just WOW— in a negative way.  So what to do? Well the keyhole has to be corrected at the tissue level. A camel toe might be corrected in fabric by scooping the front crotch. Point is, I don’t think I can fix the front at this stage of the game.  Should I decide to finish the pant, I’d have to live with that look.

And the Back: I am not putting those darts back in. The fabric made it such a struggle and I didn’t place them nicely either. Mostly I am looking at the X wrinkle (orange) and the echo (pink) above it

So I serged 2 seams or 4 depending upon how you count them The center-back leg seams were serged at 1/4″ and then basted at 1/2 and 3/4″. I removed the basting. Put in a dozen pins while having the fabric lie flat on the cutting table and then serged at 3/4″.   I’ve decided to expand the stride length to the max possible with the fabric already cut so repeated similar for the inseams except serging at 1/4″.  Sounds quick, but oh those dozen pins.

Afterwards, I can’t say the back is better. In fact, I’m concerned that the sides are looking worse. I thought they’d  been falling smoothing since the very first try-on:

Sides At First Try-on

Well maybe not. Much as I hate to do it, back to a 1/2″ hip line dart because the 1″ tucked the crotch up between my cheeks and into my Hoo Hah. Also,  I re-stitched the front crotch with a bare 1/8″ seam allowance — a width that would NOT hold should I decide to wear the pants.

.

I was praying the change to the center front SA would help but not surprised when it was a waste of time.  Sadly, the sides don’t seem to look better than the last time, the back only marginally better. Compare the previous and current back

Prev_____________Current

I am at the point of NO MORE. I’m just exhausted and feel like I’m beginning to run around in circles.  First of all, the fabric continues to spook me.  I have no idea whether my changes are applicable to other fabrics. I’d love to try this pattern again immediately but I don’t have a fabric with enough yardage. Like all good sewists, I’ve already  ordered some, just as soon as I realized I actually liked this pattern. It should be just a matter of adding tummy room and tweaking the crotch a little more to perfect or near perfect the pattern.  I hate this fabric, but maybe I didn’t give it a good chance. It was the only one on-hand with sufficient length and I was eager to test 3418. Knowing that handling that Knit Ottoman will require extra effort ahead of time, might make a difference in my feelings towards it and a finished garment. For now, I would have to find a particularly beautiful piece of Knit Ottoman to convince me to try it again and I would use a known pattern i.e. remove some of the variables.

I will make a few alterations  to the tissue while waiting shipment of my fabrics. I trimmed the 1″ length added to the top of the waist and to the hem.  I will add my 5/8″ wedge to the center-front waist (take care of that key hole problem). I will make a 3/4″ hip line dart on the tissue (a compromise between what did and did not make the cheeks prominent). I will also add the top of inseam dart on the tissue. Not trimming the inseam. That addition was helpful but I will be  trimming the tissue side seams to 1/2″, my preferred default. I added 1/2″ to the CB leg seam eventually stitching at 3/4″. The math is convoluted I want  a 1/4″ seam I can just zip through the serger. Debating on the side seams. To Peggy’s 3/8 I added 7/8. Why? I intended a full 1″ to play with and should have added 5/8″. Glad I kept notes. My side seams are at 1-1/8″ and with this 30% stretch fabric, there’s still plenty of circumference.  Would like to have my default 1/2″ on the side seams.

I’m still undecided about the elastic waistband. Not really sure I like the looks of it. BUT, it is tremendously comfortable. How much do I care about the looks when I’ll probably cover it up anyway.   I had the pant on and off, how many times??? Enough that if the elastic were to be a problem, I should have a hint. But it behaved perfectly. Every time. The elastic even wanted to flip inside. Sort of like it was saying “Here’s where I belong.”  I need to place an order with Wawak, so I’ll add white and black 2″ elastic.  I wonder how hard it would be to make this a Cover Stitch application ???

What’s the bottom line?  I’m liking the pattern, on the fence about the waistband and of course concerned about the amount of fabric required and not having solving all the back of leg wrinkles. I’m planning to make it again, at least once, to eliminate the fabric as a factor.  Can also say that, as always, Peggy’s draft is very good. Her instruction may need a little polish but her draft is just spot on. Once I adopted Peggy’s fitting routine, fitting has become so much simpler for me personally and I’ve become devoted to her patterns. Fabric.com, hurry up and send me my fabric.

 

 

3418, Elastic as Waistband, Silhouette Patterns - Peggy Sagers

3418: Depth (darting) Issues

If I had been following Peggy’s Pants Fitting Procedure, at this point I would reach back there and pinch a dart across my rear to remove all the wrinkles and mess below the seat. That does work. It works for me.  I was so excited when I first discovered the effectiveness of a hip line dart, that I trashed all my fitted pants patterns and refit using Peggy’s LCD process. Trouble was, the hip line dart worked only for the first wearing or two. Then the pant, regardless of pattern used, would change and I’d find that mess again. By find, I mean I would be taking pics of back view of tops and see the wrinkles on my backside.  My first thought had been to increase the hip line dart.  At one time my dart was 2″ deep (4″ total removed from back crotch length).  The result is that the waistband no longer sits level at the back waist-it dips- and the cheeks are — well I may as well not have worn anything. That’s how well they were silhouetted. So I had to trim the crotch. I’d trim away 1/4″ at a time until my cheeks were no longer “ghosting through”.  The pants would look great!!!  Just wonderful —– for the first wearing or two. I’ve no doubt the hip line dart was helpful, but it wasn’t the full solution. With B5682, I chanced upon a longer crotch length. Initially I had expected to trim away some of the stride length.  To my surprise, the first B5682 looked much better than any of my other pants (excepting my RTW DG2’s). I added a little length. Holy cow!  Not only did the back wrinkles go away,  they didn’t return.  I’ve been carefully watching my first few makes of 5682 (first use Oct 2017) and the wrinkles don’t return. Ah ha! I’m onto something.

So when I trotted downstairs to work on the depth issues of 3418,  rather than pinch a hip-line dart I ripped open the inseam. I let  out the inseam 3/8 both front and back thereby adding length to the stride of the crotch. And more pics:

OK s there are still wrinkles but I had to ask, how does this compare with before I made the adjustment:

 

Before Adj ——————————————After Adj

I’m going to say that adding the 3/4″ length (3/8*2=3/4) improved the wrinkles but not that much. Did it affect the rest of the pant negatively:

Not much.  The right leg is still be affected by my knee support. Interestingly, the front crotch key hole is a little more pronounced.

The original keyhole has gotten larger and is now flanked by 2 ghosts.  The tummy area itself looks better

I’m rather surprised by this development. At least this time I did something to the crotch which could have caused a change. Hmmm in fact I did 2. All the previous day  I had felt like the crotch was still a little long. But took no further action.  Today I not only made it longer by adding length to the stride, but I also settled my waistband more comfortably and definitely lower than the day before. This action would have put more fabric into the waist to crotch area. Well, not more,  just compressed it into the area. Sort of like a corrugated tin roof. Before the tin is corrugated into little ripples it’s quite a bit longer and straighter. Next up, time to tweak the crotch length.  I’ve had this in the back of my mind since the first crotch length adjustment. Now it is time to do it

So I go downstairs and decide I need to take the WB off to adjust the crotch length.  Then I decide I may as well remove the 1″ added back at the tissue stage because I obviously didn’t need it and I projected I would be struggling with even more fabric than before.  Once I got the WB off and the extra I added trimmed away, another thought occurred to me.  Sort of like the TV ad where the guy has been hunting a car. A girl comes along and finds it in 2 secs. His sarcastic reaction “Well, let’s just do it your way.” Remember that?  It’s about the way I felt.  I’ve done my best to avoid this waistband because the way I read the instructions, I don’t like the process or final result. But as long as I’m back to Peggy’s draft, I may as well take a few minutes and “do it your way”.  Hey Peggy, this would be a good Thursday topic. Either I didn’t read the directions correctly or the waistband was not easy. I’ve already posted my experieence HERE. It’s important to note, that after apply Peggy’s WB, the crotch feels right and this is the final look:

Which sadly did not further improve the fit either front or back. If anything, front looks worse. So time to try the Hip Line dart and face the fact, this really is going to be a muslin.

Let’s speed through a bit. I made a 1″ deep hip line dart (removing total 2″ from back crotch).  Didn’t see an improvement with the fit, so I made a 1″ inseam dart. Well judge for yourself.

W WB  ————- Hip Line Dart———-Inseam Dart— original

I’m honestly stumped. None of my alterations has so far achieve a noticeable improvement in the fit of the back leg .  I would say that the hip-line dart actually looked better by itself than the subsequent addition of the Inseam Dart (taken at the top of the right inseam). All views are only slightly better, if at all since the first fit before I made any corrections. I am disappointed. I have fit Silhouette Pant Patterns 3200 Sally’s Pant  and 3414-Woven Yoga. Both had the huge leg associated with plus size patterns (finishing with 20-27″ hem circumference). They are not perfectly fit, but look far better than the any of the pics above. I’ve been adding a little at a time to the stride of the 3414 making the rest of the wrinkles disappear a little at a time.  I’m pretty happy with 3414 and keep making more pants with it. So what now?

I don’t know maybe it’s time to think a bit more.