I’ve wanted to make this leopard spots fabric into jean styled pants forever. OK that’s an exaggeration. I’ve only purchased had the fabric maybe 3 years ago from the Sioux Falls Hancocks (when it was still operational). I think this is poly/lycra blend, Jacquard weave. Although warp and weft are black, the fabric has shiny and mat surfaces. The light bounces across the texture in the most interesting way. I knew I wanted pants immediately. But I haven’t had a pattern I trusted. I decided 5682 was close enough to finally use this fabric as I always envisioned.
I made 2 tissues changes before cutting fabric. I added 1/4″ width at the side-seam hem of both front and back. I’m always catching the hem of green jeans as I’m putting my foot in. Eventually, I’ll have to repair the hem. I’m hoping another 1/2″ ease on the new pair will avoid the issue. Besides, I don’t really mind another 1/2″ at the hem. That brings the hem circumference up to 16″. My ideal is closer to 18. It occurs to me that I may seem awfully picky about hem circumference. I like neither the flowing huge pant nor the ankle hugging hem Sigh, it is a case for mediocrity. What’s in the middle is the least dissatisfied if totally unexciting.
Oh the other change to the tissue. (I digressed as usual.) I made a 1″ hip line dart (1/2″ deep dart). I’m seeing the same wrinkles on 5682 as I did on SP3414, Jags Woven Yoga and on most pant patterns. They are the bane of my pants sewing. I’m pretty sure the hip line dart is the right choice for eliminating these drag lines. I mean adding back-crotch length definitely was wrong as that added more mess under the butt.
2 tissue changes, then cut fabric. I debated on a front pocket. Knew I didn’t want a back pocket — didn’t really want a pair of jeans, just slim-fitting, interesting pants. Reluctantly, I decided I didn’t want use the pocket as I’m still fitting even if I’ve zeroed in on the last issues.
So started sewing. I put the zipper in with permanent stitching as well as the inseams and crotch . I basted the side seams and waistband but that’s typical for me even when I *think* the pattern fits. Every fabric is different. Besides I know that I use fabrics with different stretch factors. What works well for this fabric, could need change for the next. Anyway I started fitting. Did 5 fittings. No big deal. I can say, “No big deal really” because the Amazon Look makes picture taking and fit checking so much easier. I don’t do any camera set up. Alexa sits patiently in the same spot always ready for the word from me. Then she delivers a pic to my cell phone and I preview the results of my last change. I love being able to make a small change. Check it. Make the next change or reverse the previous. I did have some issues I wanted to work on. I was for example surprised at these drag lines below the waist and on the sides:
Honestly, I thought I had fixed this already. On me this is a result of my roller-coaster waist line. I need to change the length by various amounts in various places. Invariable the side seams, front and back crotches need to be longer than these side front/back places. Anyway, one of the first things I did was offset the waistband to the top of the waist removing length from the pant leg. It helped but, this is really something that needs to be done at the tissue stage. Done now, I will be creating a visually awkward back yoke. I’m hoping my normal accouterments will cover the worst of these lines.
Let me take you back, for just a second, to the previous pair of 5682’s. I added 1/2″ at the top of the back crotch which resulted in multiple divots down the crotch and more mess under the butt. Hence the increase of the hip line dart and removal of the 1/2″ crotch height mentioned above. It was mostly the right decision. Across the rear itself
is nicely smooth (those left side diagonals are part of the problem described in the previous paragraph). Happily, the gross amount of mess under the butt was removed, but there are still 2 distinct diagonals on each leg
… I’ve not applied a inseam dart and this is a bad time to do it. I did however baste a 1/2″ inseam dart into this pant and take pics. It didn’t entirely solve the issues, but definitely helped. Sigh, took it out and left this pant as is.
I did one other alteration that isn’t readily seen. I offset the front and back side seams by 1/2″ which removed 1/2″ from each back leg. I’m very happy that this did not make my pant too tight and I think I’m at the point I need to carefully fit the back leg between knee and cheek.
I finished the pant i.e. all seams finished; hems nailed in place and a recent trick: elastic in a fitted waistband. Yeah, not too long ago I took apart one of my RTW jeans and discovered the secret of their waistline fit. It’s a 1.5″ wide soft elastic in the waistband. No wonder the DG2 jean always felt so comfortable no matter how much I ate.
It was definitely with a sigh of relief that I looked a the final pics. I plan to wear these with some of my holiday finery for they are fancy. I’ve already previewed and expect admiring glances when I make my way to the women’s rest room at the Outback:
Psst.. I’ll have my hair professionally done, heeled boots and some shiny jewelry. Can’t beat that!
1/2″ Inseam Dart
Back leg fitting.