I’m not expecting these pants to look any better than the final fit of the linen Vanessa. But I am expecting that the wrinkles wont be so highly visible in this deep green and black poly/cotton/lycra. Also, I’m not really expecting the lycra to have much of an effect. There was no appreciable stretch with the 4″ test swatch. I changed to a 10″ and just barely reached 10% — and only by pulling hard. I would think this was a stable stretch fabric. I like these kind of fabrics especially for blouses because they are comfortable to wear and almost act as a slimmer.
So I laid out fabric and pattern pieces. I changed the waistband from the 2 piece with the little inset in front to 2 pieces that reached from side seam to side seam. I also took a step back in the fitting process and used the pattern pieces with minimum ease, the 2″ hip line dart but no changes to the crotch. When I first looked at the pics, I couldn’t help but be pleased”
Not too bad I think. So then I lightened the pics 80% and I think I blanched:
Simply put, they don’t look as good as any of the Vanessa linen muslin pics! Crap. Another WTF moment. I’m dealing with the back of leg mess, front side seams that are rouched and I don’t think that’s a key hole nor camel toe but I seem to have male anatomy hanging from my tummy. Ouch!
Not too much I can do with the front crotch seam. It was already sewn with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Fortunately, I wear my blouses untucked and long. The odd anatomical feature will never be visible especially since my fabric is such a dark color. I took in the side seams 1/4″. It may be the wrong assumption, but I knew that when I adjusted the ease during the muslin the fit improved enormously. I also secured the elastic in place so that the waistband and elastic are distributed evenly for my figure. ( I need a little more in front.) Finally I scooped just the back of the crotch 1/2″. For the final muslin I had dropped the entire crotch 2″. I figure right now I should correct obvious errors and that waistband wants to dip in back about 1/2″.
Did those 3 changes help any?
Both the side and the back are improved and that despite the hint of VPL. (I may ignore the VPL. After all it is also covered by my tops.) The front however is if anything worse.
I have to admit that the center back is still dipping. So I scooped another 1/2″ and this time also scooped the front crotch 1/4″ deeper and out in the crotch front. TBH I think the fix for the front is a wedge added at CF that creates more ease for my tummy. But that’s not possible after fabric is cut, so I guess I continue to be glad my tops will cover this, er, anomaly.
So after the 2nd scoop in back, scoop in front and curve over the tummy, I have an improved front.
A side that looks better than the muslin ( and a whole lot better than it did at the first fitting of this pair of pants)
A back which remains unsat but is also improved over the first fitting
I’m not sure if I want to let out the side seam. Yes it could take care of the VPL, but the original excess ease contributed to the unattractive first fitting. The back waist is no longer dipping. It doesn’t make sense, really, to scoop any more. I had scooped the linen muslin past the point of scooping helping. Did that make sense? I mean I scooped it 3 times and it helped but the 4th scoop made no difference. I’m of the opinion that if I keep making the fitting changes and they don’t provide improvement OR if I make fitting changes to the muslin and the garment retains the ills of the muslin, I am not making the correct changes. So I’m leaving this pant like this:
unless I suddenly get smarter and know exactly what to do to fix it.
On the up side, I’m not terribly in love with this pant anyway. It is the color. I buy dark greens as a relief to my usual blue, brow black. I tell my myself greens look good with my peaches and apricot tops. But green isn’t really necessary in my closet. Actually, I chose my colors this quarter hoping to use up some of these less loved colors and eliminate them from the stash.
Plus, I think I may have another approach to fitting. Not my own, something that Peggy Sagers says occasionally when fitting pants about choosing size. Every once in a while she recommends that the person with thin thighs choose their size according to what they need around their thighs. She says most of these women have large stomachs (oh it that me?) and that choosing by hip or waist results is too much fabric around the leg (again me?). I don’t think my thighs are thin, but in comparison to my tummy ??? I want to try this sizing idea. I start with an advantage this time because I know what lengths I like; know the ease I want around the waist and stomach; know my thigh measurement but not my desired thigh ease. I don’t want to explore this fit idea right now. I want to finish my Autumn 6PAC and then complete the September Sewing Room Gussy-Up. My gussy plans are not extensive but I am looking forward to the newly cleaned spaces, some changes and some new equipment. Next up though, will be the final blouse.