3218-StretchWoven, Silhouette Patterns

3218: The Final Scoop

Finally I thought, the only way to know if the 1.25″ scoop is the solution, is to use it all. 5 minutes later, I had stitched, trimmed and adjusted the waistband. Muslin 3 now has all the final adjustments that Muslin 2 was given. To see the extent of the difference, I’ve posted the final Muslin 3 with next to final Muslin 2

Muslin 3 — Muslin 2

Muslin 3 is both lacking in ease and sporting large diagonals on the leg. IOW neither the trunk of the body nor the legs look as nicely as Muslin 2 AND the fit has hardly improved since Muslin 1 Fit 1

Muslin 1 Fit 1 way back when nothing had to been  done to the pattern.

I’m so disappointed I’m disgusted.  I put it in the back of the closet for a time out.


3218-StretchWoven, Silhouette Patterns

3218 III: Tweaking Fit

ETA: Grammar and Spelling


The experts will tell you not to make drastic changes to the crotch all at once. Make the scoops gradually, 1/4″ at a time. I agree because I’ve seen that in action; but I already knew the previous muslin needed to be scooped 1.25″ (at its deepest).  I also knew there was a good possibility not as much would be required because I have not made the multiple changes to the back that I made on the previous muslin .   I returned to the tissue whereon I had marked the difference between the muslin crotch and  tissue crotch. I traced the tissue crotch (blue), then the muslin crotch (brown) and then plotted a curve half-way between the two (red):

I cut the tracing along the muslin crotch line. Placed it onto the new muslin and copied the brown line to the new muslin using a brown watercolor marker.

Plotted the next stitching line about half way between serger seam and my brown line; stitched and then trimmed  with my rotary cutter

Not much trimmed away, but look at the difference:

Fit02                               Fit01

It feels much more comfortable too. But I think it needs to be scooped even more. So back to the sewing room where I stitched another 1/4″ deeper into the crotch curve:

I looked at the result and said “Is it really any better? ”  I can scoop another 3/8″ before I have made this crotch the same as the previous muslin.  But when I focus  on the seat, I have to ask, is it really any better looking? Is scooping making the seat look better?

It certainly feels better. But as far as appearance goes, I think more ease across the seat itself is what is needed. Or, am I being chicken?  Am I afraid to take the big step and scoop out the whole 1-1/4″?

I stopped to wonder if the scoop was helping the legs hang better.

Well maybe, if not for the developing X wrinkle. Still being cautious(chicken),  instead of scooping the crotch that last  bit, I offset the side seams and deepened the back darts so I would have more fabric for where I stick out the furthest.

Isn’t fitting fun?  Didn’t you think I had solved or nearly solved all the issues on the previous muslin?   I think I was right to suspect that all the slicing, patching, darts and tucking did as much to camouflage  issues as it did to help.  Not that this work didn’t help. Just that I knew even then I didn’t have this fitting fully solved and would need to do more.

Fit 03 Ease across the butt

Fit03                                Fit01

I ripped open the seams so I could offset the back seam allowance 1/2″.  I have put off scooping the crotch again justifying my cowardice with the fact that every time I scoop, I remove much needed ease from the hip. I’ve now added as much as I can by taking it from the side seams. I don’t think that is working. I think my best option is scooping the crotch to be the same as the previous muslin and adding a patch at the side seam so I can add more fabric to the back. What do you think?

After questioning and searching, I think I know why the fabric doesn’t simply go from the front to the back where it is needed.  I think it is held in place or with limited mobility by the waistband.  Yep, where I place the side seam determines how much the fabric can move about.  I could shift the side seam position on the waistband but then the side seam will be angled towards the center back instead of being perpendicular to the floor and vertical.  I don’t like the looks of an off-angle side seam. I’m also trying to determine what changes I need to make to the front. My front change decisions are inaccurate if I have to calculate in shifting to the back. So my choice if I  scoop the crotch now will be a strip added at the side seam to be situated on the back half of the pant.

After all the effort  to fit a full tummy, I was now seeing too much ease in front. Why, I don’t know. I had carefully measured and added.  My tissue looks like the previous muslin. Heck my tissue looks like  the  tracing of the previous muslin. It was disappointing to see and feel too much ease in front. So when I changed the back seam allowance to 1/4″, I also marked the front stitching line at 1-1/4″. Add to the back, take away from the front. Well, it works for me:

Every cautious, I was not removing as much as I could pinch. Yet the front was enormously improved especially on the left. I’m a little unsure what is happening on the right. The pattern piece was the same for both sides.  Is it my stance? Has the asymmetry of my right shoulder progressed to affect my right hip? While both are possible, I’ve discovered my waistband is too loose. How did that happen? The only reason I can think of is that I either did not correctly mark or measure the old waistband. But if that is the issue, why does the right look wonky and the left is something of which to be proud?

Before  taking off this muslin; quitting for day; cleaning up and trotting upstairs, I took a peep in the mirror. (Can’t really see enough detail in the camera screen and for that matter can’t see everything in the mirror.)  But I took a peep in the mirror and said “Why am I wearing Jodhpurs?” Not my intention at all, but clearly I was wearing Jodhpur pants.  I pinned the left side seam down a long ways to remove the Jodhpur effect and took more pics.


Ah, the pinning makes the front look even better, but wait? I pinned 1/2″ from the side seam from the front through the back.  I took ease from both the front and back. The back was already suffering from not enough ease. Oh my, did I just really mess up the back?

After pinning

Uh, maybe not. Look at all 3 fittings

Let’s all say it together: Huh? Really, pinching out 1/2″ of excess ease didn’t make the back look any tighter than before? So do I or do I not need to compensate for scooping the crotch?

Once again, I’m not completely sure of myself.  I think I’m going in the right direction. But I think I might be better off  by waiting for some unbiased opinion/input:  YOURS.  What would you do?


3218: III

My challenge was transferring multiple changes from the muslin to a tissue.   I started by measuring along the HBL’s on the muslin which were also marked on my tissue. I calculated the difference between the two and realized I needed to make these changes:

Summary of Tissue Changes

  1. Full Tummy made to each half of front
    1. Waist+2.25″
    2. High Hip 1.5″
    3. Low Hip.75
  2. Increased Crotch Length
    1. Front 1.5″
    2. Back 2.75″
  3. Increased Back Crotch Extension
    1. .75″

One change not in my list is scooping the back crotch. At the time I made the scoop, the pant felt better but the rear did not look better. When I added to the back crotch extension (and reduced the length of the upright) most of the wrinkles simply disappeared.  I was totally unsure of the need for the scoop and decided not to make it right away.

What followed next was  6 hours of trying to adapt the tissue to the new measurements. I had to make 3 new fronts. Adding over 2″ to half a front  proved particularly difficult. All the books say slash and spread. Can do;  multiple times but after taping new tissue beneath, the pattern would not lie flat. Wouldn’t do it unless I slashed all the way to the hem.  I didn’t want to add ease everywhere. In front I only wanted to add ease to the tummy area. Finally decided to use a method I had not tried before.  I cut along the seam allowances of center front and side seam and spread these seams the amount needed down to the level needed (low hip).  Worked really good on the front and again at the back crotch spreading the crotch to add 3/4″.  A large amount needed to be added to both crotch uprights, I extended the lines straight up the required amount and used my curve to draw a new waist. Pleased with myself, I pressed the planned fabric, laid out the pattern pieces and continued with  housework that needed doing.

That evening I read Louise’s suggestion to trace the muslin, if I didn’t want to use the muslin as the pattern. That Louise is a smart cookie.  I didn’t want to keep the muslin.  Keeping muslins for patterns takes up lots of storage room. Something I”m short on.  But I absolutely could have traced the muslin. Oy! Vey!

Next morning I realized if I discarded the altered tissue and traced the muslin, I would remember Louise’s trick in the future. So I pulled out more tracing material; placed a front and back from my muslin on the material and traced around it.  I was pretty careful when tracing. but knew I would need to straighten and maybe even true my lines.  Then I had a thought. I compared the tissue I created yesterday with the tracing today. To my surprise and delight, they were nearly the same. My tracing around the muslin was a little wobbly but the over all shape and dimensions were spot-on. The except was the back crotch:

The back crotch of the muslin aligns with my green dash lined on this tissue.  Since the copy of the muslin and the tissue created the day before were so nearly alike, I decided to use my day-before tissue. BUT I absolutely will use Louise’s tracing idea in the future. My shape keeps changing so I suspect it’s just a matter of time before I need to make more muslins. Altering the tissue took 6 hours. Tracing the muslin 30 minutes.  Even if I take another 30 minutes to straighten and true lines, I’m time ahead.

Found another fabric deep in the muslin stack. A cotton/lycra also testing with 20% stretch.  It’s a nice pant fabric but it is a summer color in a winter weight. It’s a medium/heavy weight fabric that is warm but it is in a color that will stain badly during the winter. Here in SD, the snow, the road dirt, the ice melting substances maybe a little road-kill  all combine to make a nasty dark, greasy substance. Nasty. Tires pick it up and splatter the sides of your car. You then pick it up on your clothes and other possessions. Wouldn’t this be the best time for a car wash business? Then why is it most of the car washes close during the winter?  Well back to sewing…  I won’t wear this color during in the winter weather which the fabric is best for, so muslin it is.  I laid out my fabric, again after having picked it up earlier; and again laid out my tissue pieces.  I made a little more effort with this muslin.  I finished the edges by running them through the serger and stitched the zipper and darts with polyester thread instead of water-soluble. I may be prepared for this to be a muslin but I’m also prepared for it to be a nice pant which can be worn a few weeks every year (after the snow before the heat and again after the heat of summer and before the snow.) No problem of course cutting and stitching.  Didn’t hem but did turn up 4″ and pin 4″ of the legs in place. Tried the pant on and took first pics.

Let’s cut to the chase, the all important back:

I think I need the scoop.

Oh let’s look at the front on which I have somehow made the crotch too long:

I need to lower it about 3/8″ which is easy to do.  I made a pleat close to the side seam, because the waist was to wide to fit the waistband. I think I made it too far to the side. Fortunately, these are 3 ease changes.  Should note for you guys at home (or work or wherever), this fabric wants to cling to the body. Almost like static cling. I’ve got some static cling spray around here some place. Think I’ll give the muslin a little.




3218-StretchWoven, Silhouette Patterns

3218: More Seat Fitting

The crotch, while feeling better, still  isn’t really good and I know it can be. It still feel short. It makes me wonder if I goofed when working with the OctBowl. I got to wondering how I  could use this muslin to verify the crotch length? I wanted a quick check of the back crotch length; something definitive and decided to try for the back the slash-and-let-spread test I did on the front. I didn’t slash the muslin, but I did rip out the stitching under the waistband. I took pics of pant as it hung.

Fit 07 compared with Fit 01


Fit 07     ………………    Fit 01

It felt better, looks a smidge better, but not what I consider a nice fit.

So Louse came up with another suggestion.  Actually she sent me a diagram explaining how I was going to remove the crotch length I just needed. I’m not removing it, I  am moving it. The distance the pant waist dropped away from the waistband is about 3/4″. So using that amount, I took a 3/4″ tuck across the low hip.  Then about 1/2″ away from the inseam, I slash the back crotch; added a strip and spread the crotch 3/4″. I’ve never done both operations on the same crotch at the same time. But look at the improvement:

Focus on the right leg and be gentle in your opinions of the muslin. It has been slashed, patched, darted and  tucked so many times. I’ve lost count. Trying to do any of these things to a sewn garment is difficult, but trying to do them in this muslin’s state is, well it’s a miracle we tell anything.

Look at how nice the tush is:


So it’s time for a new muslin. I hate to admit it but I have to see if these alterations can be copied to the tissue. Has to be a muslin because I may need to change them more. Oh the headache of trying to figure which alterations and how much to copy.


3218-StretchWoven, Silhouette Patterns

3218:Seating II

I was pretty sure that adding the 2″ of ease over the hip was too much. Not until I saw it in effect did I realize how much too much that was. So today, I ripped out the 3/8″ inseam dart — It didn’t help. Why keep it?– then reduced each of the newly added back wedges by 3/8″. I gave the muslin a quick press, no steam, slipped the muslin on and took pics. Wish I could say it was a rousing success but truth is, I hardly notice anything either feeling or looking different:

It seems to pull on my rear at the same time as having too much ease.  I pinned out the 1/2″ ease once again and took pics of that too.

Unpinned—Pinned to remove 1/2″

Well that hardly seems to have had an effect. It looks no better, no worse.  Feels no better nor worse.  I remembered I added 1″ to the side seam of the back because I anticipated reshaping the crotch which would require getting some ease from some place else.  But I thought I had stitched along the original stitching line i.e. did not incorporate the extra 1″ ease in the fit. Just to be sure, I looked carefully now. Yep stitched along the original stitching line. Darn! That would have been a nice easy fix.

It’s odd that the back crotch feels tights after multiple fittings in which it felt fine and after adding 1″ to the total crotch length even if added only to the front. Seems like if it was too short, I would have felt the pulling earlier and the back crotch would at least felt a little better after the addition.

I’m running out of ideas that can be easily reversed,  so I’m considering carefully scooping and reshaping the crotch.  I just didn’t think either helped with the first go-round on this muslin. Why would it work now? And I do mean it didn’t work as in there was no discernible difference either visually or felt in M1Fit04. For M2 FIT 06 I decided to take an this unreversible step but not as drastic as the crotch reshaping performed on M1Fit04.  Using the information provided by InHousePatterns:

The Crotch Curve

She has two other excellent videos sharing her particular philosophy for fitting pants.



and Getting Started

All are excellently done, but keep in mind there are many experts, many philosophies. If it works for you, do it. If not, well at least you gave it an effort. Move on. something else.

I don’t doubt the movies and individual frames are copyrighted so let me show you what I think she said to do.

Starting with the pattern piece, draw in the horizontal crotch line and then the vertical upright.

That produces the rectangular shape with which the pattern cutter created the crotch curve.  Since my front looks good, I won’t touch the front crotch. But I am reshaping the curve within the guidelines of the pattern by redrawing just the curve:

There’s quite a bit of space for reshaping the curve. At least 1-1/2″ I’d say.  I’m a person that prefers making incremental changes instead of making a single, big, fat, whopping mistake.  I marked a short line 1/2″ in the crotch curve, drew and stitched along the line.  This is not like the scoops that I’ve done in the past. In the past I’ve made 1/4″ changes (multiple but 1/4 at a time) which carved into the body of the pant and then under the bottom of the crotch. I feel like I made a BIG change because I used 1/2″, twice what I normally do. But, I can neither see nor feel an improvement.

I double down; er maybe more. I made that curve a full inch deep.  I’m tired of all that ease flapping around. So after Louise made the same observation, I decided upon making the CB seam deeper.

For the first time, when I slipped the muslin on, I said “Ahhhhhhh…..” but man, the legs  looks like cr@p:

….Fit6————————– Fit1

Sadly, The first fitting (shown above) looked much better overall in the back.  But, the torso, just from waist to wazoo, does look good.

Most of the wrinkles up there can be fixed by adjusting the position and maybe depth of the darts.  The crotch is not cutting into the bifurcation.

The front, which was untouched, also looks nicer.

Let me say it again, by only removing some of the excess ease in the back the front looks better. Changing the back crotch curve could have helped, but I don’t think so. The front started looking worse when I added the wedges in back. If anything, the previous alterations to the back made the front look frumpier. I think it was deepening the CB seam, thereby removing total ease across the torso which had the positive effect on the front.

Well that’s enough for today. Tomorrow, I think I might be able to reshape the crotch curve a little more.

It’s already very angular. Not sure that I want to make it more so.  Also, I’m still wondering about the crotch length itself. Making the Bowl, using the bendy curve to copy my crotch curve has been more confusing to me.  At this point, I’m not even sure I have the correct length. What I am using, from the OctBowl, is shorter than the AugBowl and shorter again then the pants I love which used to fit me.  I am just not sure the “Bowl” concept is helping me. I think I need more research into it i.e. reviewing the videos and blog posts before I work with it again.


3218-StretchWoven, Silhouette Patterns

3218: Fitting the Seat

After fitting the waist, crotch and tummy, I was thinking the next alteration would be adding extra seating ease. Like I always need.  Even on Silhouette Patterns, I add ease to the back at the hip. The suddenly uncomfortable crotch had me questioning myself. Did the seat really need more circumference or did the crotch need more length? I mean is the darkness between the cheeks from the extra strip and thread or am I really seeing the crotch snuggling between the cheeks? Was there an easy way to determine which is my problem?  You know what really bothered me?  Why did this pattern with 11/15 crotch lengths feel fine;  until this fitting? Seriously in 8 other fittings the crotch felt fine. I had congratulated myself repeatedly on adding the 1.5″ to the back crotch at the tissue stage. But now, after giving my  tummy all the circumference it needed,  why was did the back crotch appear to be crawling up my wahzoo?

I thought an easy cross check might be measuring a pair of pants that I like. I found a pair of non-stretch pants I’ve been wearing for at least 2 years. They are stretched way-out of their original shape but my purpose was to measure a pant that rested on the waist and felt good all day long. I thought any changes the pant had made to fit my body, could only be helpful. I measured back crotch first. 16″. Same as OctBowl and same as this muslin measures. Then I measured the  front crotch of the comfortable pant. 12 inches. 1 inch more than this muslin. Since I know the comfortable pant feels and looks good, I added a stripto the muslin at the top of the front;  trimmed it down so that the muslin front crotch would also measure 12″ but the side seam lengths were unchanged.  I replaced the back darts with tucks; adjusted the side seam relative to the waistband another 1/4″ and slipped the muslin on for pics. Before snapping pics, I had a second thought. I wanted to be sure that the clip holding the CF’s together  was not pulling the waist down . Instead of the strong metal clip I used previously, I used a plastic clip. Much lighter-weighing than the metal.

Pics TAKE TWO, Fit 03

I am really pleased with the sides (Even though I only posted the left side, I am pleased with both side seams).  The side seam is almost perfectly straight. It breaks slightly at the crotch and again at the knee. I’m not even sure I should worry about the side seam beyond making sure I correctly mark the waistband for future use.

I’m not sure that the front looks or feels better.  I can usually tell I’ve make the right fitting  alteration, even a small improvement, because I feel the difference.  Like when I slashed and added circumference over my tummy, I actually sighed with relief.  If the correct change was making the front crotch longer, why don’t I have the “Ah…….” experience?

Moving along:

Trying to restore the crotch may have been a big, fat error.  I find that I am visually confused. Is something going on in the crotch or is it just fabric and dark thread used in the patch?  I think I may have made my darts too deep (3/8″ and 5/8″). Correctible but not right in this fitting. Let’s take a close look at the crotch/back torso

The crotch feels fine during wear; well the whole pant feels fine during wear. Feels much better than it looks.



Fit03    ……………………………….      Fit 01

I’m not seeing any improvement in back wrinkles. I thought I saw improvement after adding the tummy ease but I don’t see even that improvement in Fit 03. IOW  I don’t think lengthening the front crotch helped back there.  I’m going to leave the crotch length alone for now.

In Fit 04 I’m changing the thing I thought  I would be changing after Fit02 (you know, before I got side tracked into checking crotch length):

Seat Ease

I wanted to see if I needed more circumference over my seat/rear/butt. I wasn’t sure how much more ease, if any, to add to the seat.  I figured the 2″ I normally add (1″ at each side seam) would be too much. But at least, it was a starting point. I am surprised at how  ‘too much” my standard 2″ addition is. In the above pic, the leg on the right looks better than on the left. My stance perhaps?

I am reluctant, Ok I’m darn right avoiding the Hip Line dart. I just cannot wrap my head around adding 1″ at the hip balance line to make the back crotch long enough and then taking it away to remove the wrinkles under the seat. Either I need the length of not. I can’t have it both ways.  But taking the inseam dart to re-angle the leg, well yes that makes sense especially IF later on I somehow restore the inseam length to my preference.

So: Fit05 and pics of a 3/8″ Inseam made on my left leg:

WOW does that look bad. Without the 3/8″ dart, the right leg is much more attractive, even on the Front view.

I am truly disappointed. I’ve seen that dart work multiples times for other people. Why not me?

I note , the muslin now definitely has too much torso ease. I’ve pinned out at least 1/2″ on the left side seam (would be 2″ total)

It  helped the appearance of the entire leg.



This is where I stopped, cleared today’s mess and turned off the lights before heading upstairs.  I’ve done what I can do while still taking care of my other obligations (laundry, cleaning, meals etc).  I think  tomorrow, the next step will be taking a little ease out of the back by narrowing the wedges I added. Not sure about also narrowing the wedges in front. It could be that the seat was borrowing ease from front. So while the tummy looked like it had the right amount of ease, it really had too much. I’m not sure about that yet, so next step is removing from the back. Ah, why is pant fitting so nebulous?







3218-StretchWoven, Silhouette Patterns

3218 Fitting the front

Today I kept trying to remember how many people warned me I needed a full-tummy adjustment?  I should have heeded their advice. I think my stumbling block  was that a FTA adds length as well as circumference while I only needed circumference and that seemed to be needed only in the rear.

I did my alteration a little differently than envisioned yesterday. On both sides of center front, I draw a vertical line where I wanted to slash, cut that apart and basted a 3″ wide strip of fabric to the inside. I ripped the waistband basting apart from the side seam to almost 2″ away from the zipper. Then I slipped the muslin on; zipped it up and smoothed the strip inside. I pinned the strip in place. On second thought I grabbed a watercolor pen and traced the wedge which had opened. Good thing because when I tried to take the muslin off, it was pinned to my underwear. Pins had to be removed. But I had my lines and could now baste the strip on the other side of the drawn wedge. I opened the waist within 2″ of center back then pinned it back in place which the side seams shifted 3/4″ inch towards center back. I was able to ease the front but the back still needed tucks/darts.  Hoping to eliminate the way the tuck unfolded yesterday, I placed the new tucks only 2.5″ away from CB. BTW this does correspond to what I know about my body. I always move the darts closer to the side in front and in the back closer to the center back. My curve is in the tummy and tush. Very little curve along the sides which is why I get Mickey Mouse ears. (Those flaps of fabric on the sides which are needed for ease more towards the center of the body.)

Actually I was afraid to look at the pics (I’ll explain later)

The wedges look weird, but the high-hip shadow has disappeared and this unpressed muslin looks better than ever.

I moved the sides 3/4″ towards center back but that was too far. Side seams are now leaning slightly towards back instead of obliquely towards front. It’s an improvement; but not exactly what I want. Which is what I’d say about the sides overall. They look better, probably better than any previously fitting, but for a slack, I want them to hang a little straighter without any of the buckles I’m seeing.

Fit 02………………………………..Fit01

I wanted the back fittings side by side for comparison

It is interesting to me at how adding ease to the front has improved the back. Moving the tucks/darts over eliminated most of the  pull under the waistband seen earlier. Happily I’m no longer seeing the high-hip shadow anywhere.

Remember I wrote I was afraid to look at these pics? When I tried the muslin on, it felt like it was pulling itself up into the bifurcation. I’m not making jeans where the bifurcated butt is the focus. I am aiming for a slack. I am aiming for semi-fitting, not closely fitting (jean) or loose-fitting (trouser). In the 5 minutes I had the muslin on, I knew, if finished I wouldn’t wear this all day long.  I look at crotch length

Back ……………………. Front

and I can see that neither is  bad.  I look at the level of the waistband

both sides look horizontal to me. Not creeping up in front. Not pulling down in back.  I don’t feel either condition, I feel pulling into the bifurcation both front and back So I sit and wonder, is it time to add ease to the back (using the same slash and add wedge)? Increase the front and back crotch length? But if I do that,  will I be seeing the CF and CB rising? From the side it will make a curve instead of a horizontal line. So is it time to slice it all horizontally  and add length evenly across the torso? And if the crotch length is wrong, why did I bother with the bowl and tieing the quarter-inch elastic around my waist? All that refining I did to pin-point to lean of the crotch on the axis–the whole water-spout and garbage disposal stuff?

Pants fitting is my sorriest skill.


Camuto’s Stretch Woven Pant, Take Two

So as I was saying, having given this pattern the light touch, I realized  it was time to do something.  I ripped out all the seams (easy to do with the use of water-soluble thread in the bobbin) pressed everything nice and flat and set them aside.

Started with the waistband since it needed the least attention. It’s the one place I always want negative ease.  Can’t explain my feelings other than when the waistband is equal to or smaller than my waist, I never feel like my pants are sliding down. Once removed from the muslin, I serged the long, raw-edged side. Then marked the center back and 18.5″ from each side of CB.  That makes it 37″ long. Depending on the day and my then current waist size, that gives me anywhere from -.5 to +.5 inches of waist ease.

I decided I wanted to restart fitting 3218 close to its base; close to how it was drafted.  I reasoned that both my RTW jeans and my favorite jeans pattern started with standard drafting (which is where Peggy starts too). My RTW and fav pattern have  adaptations for the mature, feminine figure. Silhouette Patterns makes drafting adjustments but not to the degree of either of the previous 2 nor is she targeting the aging female. Peggy is trying to sell a pattern that can be used by many if not all women; DG2 (my RTW jeans) and Trudy Jansen 906 (my fav pattern) have a targeted audience and are not worried about selling to such a broad audience.  My point is, they all start with basic drafting and make some changes. DG2 and TJ make more than Peggy. So,  I want to start my fitting back at the basic drafting  Peggy provides. To do so, I need to restore the crotch I mutilated in Fit 05.  I could have started with new fabric. I’m thinking I don’t want to use all my fabric fitting 3218.  I may want to make a second test when I think 3218 is pretty good (I’m optimistic) to verify my changes. In that case, I’d really like to use the same fabric.  I’m leery of changing fabrics.  I have had too many -um- interesting experiences that had to be solely the result of a different fabric. I don’t want to deal with that hence I’d like to keep the remaining fabric for possibly a 2nd muslin. Anyway, I thought of how I could restore the crotch, the obvious choice of attaching a strip popped into my head.

I cut a strip about 5″ wide and longer than the front crotch.  Placed the strip flat on the inside and joined to the muslin using the honeycomb stitch.  Shown above is what it looks like on the inside and outside after joining. After the pics, I trimmed the strip close  to the honeycomb stitching. Otherwise it wanted to fold and get in the way.

Then I turned my attention to the tissue, starting with the front:

I thought the front of Muslin 1 was pretty good at the first fitting other than not having enough ease for my tummy.  In the pic above, I have trimmed the  front, side-seam allowance to 1/2″, my preference for side seam allowances. I trimmed away the front fly then added a strip of aisle runner before drawing a 1/2″ wedge at the center front starting at the waist, zeroing about 8″ down.  Followed that by adding the zipper fly which when sewn would be 1-1/4″ wide (it includes the 3/8″ SA of the center front).  I marked the HBL’s at High Hip, Low Hip, and Crotch.

Turned my attention to the back and thought, all I need here will be my HBL’s and I want to mark the knee.  Marked all of those with a Sharpie; repeated the HBL’s on the front

Then its time to recut fabric to reflect my tissue changes.

I  fold the front and back legs up 5″. I don’t need the length during fitting. In fact, I don’t want the full length because, being too long, the pant leg will buckle. I’ve seen some of those ‘buckles’ stack up the pant leg imitating other fitting errors.  Pant fitting is my sorriest skill. I am desperate to eliminate anything and everything that could lead me astray. Hence, folding up the pattern piece 5″. That also allowed me to position the front pattern piece on the fabric in such a way to completely recut the front

Repeat with the back except I had to make use of most of the previous cut edge. I transferred the dart lines, HBLs and added 2 new horizontal lines spaced evenly above the knee below the crotch  on both front and back pattern pieces.

Above, I’m sharing only the back with all the lines drawn and the front looks much the same.

I have several concerns about this whole process.  I’m not sure how far off-grain I may have gotten when I recut. Also unsure of how accurately the HBL’s are placed. But they are in the neighborhood and knowing they could be inaccurate I will consider that in later alterations.

I basted the zipper  at its ‘new’ location. Basted all the seams together carefully aligning the side seams so that both the front and the back are basted on the original stitching line.  This was awkward but I really wanted to start at square one i.e. as close as possible to what Peggy draftedt. Alright, I’m not quite at square one since I retained the additional 1″ crotch height and added the 1/2″ wedge at CF.  But I”m close so I tried on the revised muslin and took pics!

I was expecting the waist not to fit. I mean I added more waistband length compared to the first fitting and I added the extra ease with that 1/2″ wedge but I still I didn’t think it would be correct. Man I was ever surprised when I clipped together the waistband center-fronts and had a Goldilocks experience — not too big, not too small, just right.

The pic tells me I’m not there yet.  From the “curves” and the HBL”s, I can tell I still need some ease a little further down maybe starting 2″ below the waist to about 1″ below High Hip.


Isn’t it interesting at how I can say the same thing about the sides as I did about the fronts by  looking at the angle of the side seams?  They want to pull forward from waist band almost to the high hip  They say, I need more tummy room.

I look at these 3 pictures (front and both sides) and realize I will need to add another  wedge to the front starting at the waist, but terminating at the low hip  to be sure I am adding enough ease through the upper pant.  If I make the wedge 1/2″ wide at the waist, zeroing at the high hip or just below, I won’t add much through that area. I don’t like adding this much ease, but I can see I need about 1″ at the waist then zeroing at the low hip.  This is will be a slash/spread and insert fabric strip on both sides of center front.

May as well take a look at the back. I mean I took the pic, we may as well at least see what is back there, eh?

I did not stitch the darts. After making changes to the front I was unsure of what the dart width would need to be, so, I made a tuck at the waistband. I made the tuck where the center dart would be stitched.  Interesting how said tuck wants to unfold towards center back? I think I should move the dart/tuck towards CB.  Now here’s something really interesting:

On the left, is the back crotch of Take Two (I’m calling this exercise 3218 Take Two) and the back crotch of Muslin 1, Fit 1.

I still need to add a bit of ease. Not sure about crotch length but I think it is fine? Thinking back to the other fittings of the back crotch, I’m just amazed. Amazed at how adding ease to the front  waist/torso made the back hip fit better. Remember, I have stitched both of these views (Muslin 1 and Take Two) on Peggy’s default stitching line. Then the front has a 1/2″ wedge adding circumference to the waist and the back has  1-1/2″ added to the crotch length.  The difference between the two backs in this pic is limited to the added front-wedge i.e. the crotch length was included in Muslin 1 Fit 1.

I also thought it would be interesting to take a close look at back leg between thigh crease and hem:

Are you asking yourself if I’ve done some kind of sleight of hand? Was the pic Photoshopped? The only difference, beyond the front wedge, could be my stance. I am sure I am like you when I say, “Really? Adding 1″ ease at the front waistline made that difference to the back leg?”


Well, I’ll be back tomorrow. It took time to get this far.  So much time that I’m actually surprised that I had pant photos to show.



3218-StretchWoven, Silhouette Patterns

SP3218: Still working….

Updated 10/14/2018 to fix broken link

FIT 04

I’m calling it Fit04 but admit I’m a rolling up a couple of things under single fitting session because it’s mostly for the SP devotee’s that have been screaming “Make the hip line dart! Make the inseam dart!” So I did. I made a 1/2″ deep hip line dart across the entire back; then on the left leg only, I made  a 3/8″ inseam dart.  With both alterations made, I took pics .

So that we focus on the effects of one alteration at a time, I’m showing the right  leg first which will be showing what happens when only the hip line dart is in place. Just so we can see how much difference the hip line dart makes,Lets place pictures of  Fit03 to the right of  Fit04

Fit 04       Fit 03

I’ll admit there is some improvement before continuing to the left leg and again which contains both the hip line  and the inseam darts and  also comparing it with Fit03

Again, yes the left leg looks better too but don’t gloat too long and withhold a few “told you so” because the back crotch is once again uncomfortably short

The side view looks slovenly and the front (trying to adapt to the back) is positively a horror

Am I to sacrifice tush, side and front appearance and comfort of fit for the sake of removing the back of a few leg wrinkles? I hope I have answered the question of why I don’t immediately jump into using these two fitting tools. I do believe that they can work. When a person asks me how to fit, I always say “here watch these SP videos. They are wonderful for getting you on the right track. They may be all you need.”  SP gives out some excellent information. But, so far those two darts are not fixing my problems with slim trousers. That’s important. I was able to fit SP 3200, Sally’s pant, almost to perfection using Peggy’s method. But the same techniques utterly failed me with  3400 the Yoga Pant, 3414 Jags Woven Yoga and 3418 the 4-Piece Yoga Pant.

Maybe I need these alterations,  plus something else? Usually at this point, I put my muslin in the back of the closet and do something else while I try to come up with an answer. This time,  I’m working with My Oct Bowl which is pretty good. First I ripped out all the  basted, muslin darts– other than the back waistline. (I’m not entirely throwing in the towel on SP darts, but I want to see what happen to the muslin with just a little crotch reshaping.) Crotch scooping has been successful for me in the past. But this technique was The Answer when I wasn’t dealing with all the weight and flab I have acquired. Also, my posture has changed dramatically in the last 10 years. All three issues will be confronted by most women sooner or later. I also have to work with a tilted waist (which seems to be more tilted as I become more old). I think I just proved that I have the rare high-low anomaly (pic, post);  and I’m never sure how the broken tail bone figures in (is it showing in the high-low anomaly or another issue that needs addressing separately.)

Back to what I’m doing for Fit05

  • Rip out PS darts
  • Using the Oct Bowl, reshape the back crotch of the muslin (not altering the tissue yet).

Now this is not the typical and previously successful scooping.  That involved just the bottom of the crotch.  This time I marked a  scoop 1/2″  back into body space which continues about 1/4″ below the crotch and then angles back up to join the front crotch.

Followed that by stitching trimming before taking pics. Also note, I did not touch the front. The front was fitting beautifully until opened up the side seam and added ease which I still have not removed. But I did remove the 1″ wedge added to the back a few fittings ago and I moved the fabric at the waist around to reflect the darts I let out a few fittings ago.  So what did I get.

Well I’ve got a side view that looks better than it did with Hip Line and Inseam darts.  I think I may have over corrected when I adjust the fabric because the side seam is now leaning forward rather than the backward as seen in previous fittings.  I’ve also got a front without the benefits of a longer back crotch

I  want to point out there is plenty of ease across the front because I can easily  pin out 1/2″ of excess ease even though the tummy strains at the center front:

But what everyone wants to know about, the back:


Fit05 …………………………………….Fit03

Hardly any improvement. Back crotch length is now 15.5″ or 1/2″ longer than drafted; 1/2″ shorter than with the added via the 1″ wedge.

Fit 05…………………………………………………………………………………Fit 04

The  beautiful  and comfortable Back Crotch of Fit 05

The back crotch feels much more comfortable but it’s obvious I need more ease back there.  Because I scooped out body space, I lost fabric-width across the tush. Unfortunately I can’t let out the side seams any more to add back the ease; and cr@pola, it won’t “borrow” from the excess at the front side seam.

I am at a stall point. For any crotch reshaping to work, the excess fabric must be trimmed away.  Once done, there is no going back.  Maybe I could add a strip to the side or insert a wedge close to the CF. Maybe I could scoop more. Maybe, maybe, maybe.

When I started this journey I promised myself not to let fitting SP3218 take over my life.  I promised myself 1 muslin, 6 fittings. That was fitting #5.  It’s crunch time. Whatever I do now, has to be positively effective because I’m not doing anything else. I am close to the end of the road.



3218-StretchWoven, Silhouette Patterns

3218: Construction and Fitting

A few weeks ago, I was frantically digging through the stash for an appropriate muslin fabric. Some of my fabrics are  just too expensive to cut into a muslin and throw away. With pants, it is unlikely my test garment, my ‘muslin’ can be made wearable. In fact, I sometimes require multiple pant muslins. So if I choose a fabric for a test pant, I must be prepared to toss the  result into the trash.  Anyway, I was digging through the stash for something cheap I could throw in the trash without a lot of guilt but it must have the right stretch factor and weight;  and I prefer light-colored fabrics.

Light-colored fabrics show up the wrinkles and pulls much better than dark fabrics. I have used dark fabrics and changed picture exposure but that just isn’t as good as starting with a light-colored fabric.  Boy it was tough finding qualifying fabrics.

In sheer desperation, I sat down and hunted through Fabricmartfabrics.com $1.99 and other sale fabrics. I looked for under $3/yard and light-colored.  From the limited selection I found, I started eliminating sheer fabrics, heavy and stiff fabrics (Canvas? Not good for pants muslin.)  I know from experience that the fabric in the muslin needs to be a whole lot like the fabric I want to wear or the muslin will be a waste of time. It’s back to that thing of every fabric having producing a different effect on the draft. In my selection, I was looking for jean denim, non-stretch pant weight wovens, woven stretch and pant Ponte’s.  Not many in the final run.  My order went in for 5 yards each for a non-stretch pant weight (no Ponte this time) and the excellent stretch woven I am using today. No kidding it’s a great fabric. Downside for me is that it is a wool blend. I tend to ruin my wool pants in the laundry. But for a muslin, it is terrific.

I’ll say it again, even thank my SG friend for saying it first, pants are easy to sew. It’s the fitting that takes an outrageous amount of time.  I lightly pressed my fabric (getting a good whiff of the wool content in the process) and then smoothed it out and placed 3 pattern pieces on top: Front, Back Waistband.  I folded up the front and back leg 2.5″.  I wanted the leg to hang ‘free’; not to break across the foot or anywhere else.  Could have folded the leg up a little more but, eh <shoulder shrug> it’s done.

I put the waistband together first. I’m using my TNT straight WB pattern piece.  Didn’t even need to add width — it was the same as this 3218 waistband. I cut the waistband and interfaced it;. Folded, matching the long ends together, pressed and stitched 3/8″ away from the long raw edges.  I cut elastic a little shorter than the waistband and threaded it through the channel just created when I stitched the long edges together. .  I marked the center back;  center front on both ends and made a tick for the side seam placement. I use that to line the WB up with the pant side seams. The placement can move depending upon the depth of the seam allowances (which can change depending upon fabric), whether I’m using darts and how many. I mean there are a few variables that can make small differences and I allow for them.

I used water-soluble thread (WST) in the bobbin to attach the zipper. With the WST still in place, I cut the back, basted the darts and continued to baste side seams, inseams and crotches. Lastly, I aligned  the waistband and basted it into place.  Look, it took longer to write this post up then it did to baste everything together. ‘Course pics for the first fitting took a few minutes more.


I knew as soon as I tried to clip the waist together that I was going to need more room. Maybe more than the preliminary +1/2″ Tummy Estimate.  But, the front doesn’t look bad at all.  The little blip on the front crotch is a stitching error. Somehow the SM caught a bubble right there. It flattens out when I look at it. Puff’s right back up when I look away. That’s not VPL you are seeing. That horizontal shadow about mid way between waist and crotch is my tummy. Instead of the fabric being able to skim the tummy curve, it is tightly following the curves of my body i.e. not enough tummy ease.  Let’s get to the side and those wrinkles next

I was hoping for fabric with 10-15% stretch. My fabric actually has 20%. If I pull vigorously, 25%.  It wasn’t terrible but the fabric did want to advance in front the rotary cutter. Working at the SM was bad.  I ripped out half of one of the legs; let it relax; and then restitched.  If I were to use this fabric in a real garment, I would pin every  2″. Maybe closer. Might even hand baste.  So I see these wrinkles, but I’m not really upset with them; might be if I was making a garment instead of a muslin.  What really concerns me- and I’m glad to see – is the tummy shadow has continued around and it is echoed by hip crest circle. I am glad to see the shadows continuing because it means I am need to add ease evenly to the garment. Which is easier to do than offsetting side seam.   The back:

I knew the back couldn’t be good. I could feel my pants trying to crawl up the bifurcation and my flesh forming into a muffin top. All the lines below will have to be ignored until I solve the ease problem at the tummy and hip.

I’m surprised with this much lack of ease.  True, my measurements were taken 2 months ago.  I’ve lost weight since then.  Wasn’t expecting things to get bigger; was actually expecting too much ease. Why would the opposite occur?  Well,  there is a wool content which can shrink under the steam iron, but I didn’t press for that long nor use much steam.  I’m a little puzzled but I think the best thing to do, is simply concentrate on adding the ease I absolutely, no questions about it, know I need:  in the tummy.  Thank goodness I used WST in the bobbin. It will be nothing to rip out the seams.

For Fit02, I ripped open the side seams between waist and about 9″ down. Pinned them back together at a comfortable circumference and then looked in the mirror.  I have a full length mirror in the bathroom but the view is not 100% reliable. While the front view is revealing, the sides and back cannot be trusted because I’m bending and twisting. So the muslin looked good in front; felt good all around but I hesitated. I remembered that I fit my SP blouses by selecting the largest standard woman draft (size 18, same as this pant pattern) and then adding 1″ to the side seam below the  waist over the hip. The fronts are trimmed at final fitting to remove some ease, but, point is, adding 1″ at the hip was the first break through I had  with fitting an SP pattern. With that in mind, instead of the 3/8″ pinned, I stitched the side seams 1/2″ closer to the raw edge; effectively adding 2″ of ease to the circumference of the hip.

An improvement but not the overwhelming success I was hoping for.

I must note that the waist is a little large. I took the front pic first. When I turned for the back pic, I hitched up my pant just a little. While it may be a little, I’m quite sure it has an effect on the looks of the pant because it definitely made the front feel better.

I am surprised that I”m still seeing that high hip shadow.  I repeat: I am wearing boy shorts. That’s not VPL. My panties hug my natural waist which is beneath the waistband and then again about 2″ below the hip/torso crease. There are no lines/shadows where my panties are.  I am more concerned with the look of the back crotch:

Let me refresh memories, including my own, the back crotch of the pattern measured 13.5″.  That’s net, taken along the stitching line without inseam/waist seam allowances. I slashed and spread at the crotch 1.5″ making the back crotch length  a total of 15″. The Oct Bowl measured 15″ along the back crotch. They are equal. The front crotch measures the same as the Oct Bowl and which looks and feels fine. (That little bubble in front is a stitching error.). The back crotch feels like it is still cutting into my bifurcation and it kind of of looks that way too.

Would you add more length?  Look again, the bubble of fabric directly below the waistband still remains.  That usually indicates that the back is constrained by the waist. It can go no further up the body. It shouldn’t need to, if 15″ is the correct crotch length. So the crotch can’t go further up; can’t go down and it bubbles.

This is such a puzzle to me. The 16″ crotch of the  V1411 fit nicely but the 13″ front crotch  did not. The 11″ front crotch of 3218 has  a much nicer fit while it’s 15″ back crotch did not.

Sigh, it’s the kind of stuff that has me banging my head against the wall.  Well onto…


I had to eliminate the length of the back crotch as an issue.  Just had to do it. I separated the waistband from the back; basted in a strip of fabric in between  and the took another pic. Hmm, should add that I also shortened the front waistband just 1/4″.  Yes this is the TNT waistband but even it has to be adapted for different fabrics.

The sides are visibly trying to lean towards the back. Along with the high-hip shadow, I think they are saying, we need more room back here.  I could let out the darts.  I have four (4) 1/2″ darts. They do not extend far enough into the high hip zone to make a difference with ease but at the waist? Maybe.

I adjusted the waistline by changing the alignment of the CF mark/zipper stitching. What’s really good here is that the nagging thought that the waist was too large, causing the pant to droop which negatively affect fit, shshhzh that feeling is gone. The waistband sits where it should and feels comfortable. I think it was a mistake to change the seam allowances on the front.  I had hoped I was adding ease where the high-hip shadowed. No. No help.  While this is widely criticized, I think my best solution is my oldest solution and was given to the world by Nancy Zieman when she was still a young woman.  For those of us with a tummy, she recommended added a small wedge, a sort-of-a-reverse dart at the center front. You add half of what is needed (because it will be on both sides of the front).  Too late for this muslin.  If I don’t trash the whole lot (as threatened in my introductory)  I will add the little wedge but keep the ease of the rest of pant as is.   Fit01 was a d@mn fine front.

I am happy to say that the back immediately felt better for adding the 1″ length. As soon as I zipped up the muslin; even before I clipped the waistband closed in front, a sigh of release escaped my lips.  Somehow neither my  Aug nor  Oct bowls are in sync with what I am seeing on my muslin. The back crotch itself looks great!

However there is still a bubble beneath the waistband even if it is not directly  on the crotch itself; and of course the back of leg mess is still…

…a mess.

Well that’s enough head scratching or banging  for today.   Probably enough pics and verbiage for you.  Come back tomorrow. We’ll join in the fight yet again.