I spent a puzzling week working on the fit of this first pair. They never looked as good as the muslin. But as you can see, when I’m standing normally and dressed, they look OK
My fabric is a heavy ponte purchased from a new-new-to-me source, StylishFabric.com. I particularly liked their descriptions which included the GSM (a weight reference). I purchased several ponte roma swatches and bought this navy which is so dark it is almost black. It was also the heaviest weight they had at the time. I love its feel. It is spongy and thick. Well, not fleece thick but thick compared to other fabrics. But it may be part of the issues I had during fitting. Also contributing was my desire for a Yoga Pant instead of the gathered, elasticized waistband of the muslin. (Lots of stuff around my waist on that one.) Finally on the muslin I had offset the back side seam to have sufficient hip room and was still having issues with the CB pulling downward. Thus my decision to go up one, back-size without making another muslin.
I transferred the fitting changes to the tissue. Copied the tissue and then cut a copy of it. I measured down 3″ along front and back waistband and removed that much all across. I created the Yoga waistband by measuring along the pant’s new upper edge and then cutting rectangles the length of that edge by 6.5″ wide.
No matter what I did, I could not remove the 2 diagonal wrinkles.
Believe me, I tweaked every seam. Basted in changes and then removed same. Since the sideways, side seam, fish eye dart worked wonders on the muslin, I tried those again too. No dice. The diagonals from hip to inseam remain.
Before tackling the back wrinkles, I struggled fitting the waistband. After the pant was basted together including the waistband, I had removed the elastic from the muslin and threaded the same piece through my new Yoga waistband. When I tried the pant on, the waist would slowly sink so the top of the waistband was sitting on my high hip. I wanted it just below the waist (like jeans). I fooled with that for the first entire session. Then emailed my sewing angel to ask her advice, who told me the fabric was too heavy for the elastic. When I returned for the next sewing session, I combined her idea with mine. My idea was a wider elastic. Her’s was pulling the elastic tight around the hip (or tummy if larger) and using that length. I used a 2″ elastic and pulled it tight. Cut elastic that length + a seam allowance. At the try on the back was still too loose. Also there was just so much fabric at my waist. A yoga pant should be fairly smooth across the waistband–even smoother than below. I trimmed 1″ from both sides of the waistband (mine is in 2 pieces front and back so total of 4″ waistband length removed). I also removed 1/2″ from each side of the back, waist elastic. Immediate improvement. But I did find that the back would still slowly pull down. Having already tried everything Fit For Art Recommends, I pulled out the Palmer Pletch pant fitting book. Their suggestion was adding to the front crotch. The back diagonals were unaffected and the front looks no nicer now than it did in the muslin.
The photo above? Is one the best of the pics. While the back didn’t pull immediately down, it would slowly. Concurrently, the front would hike upwards almost to my bra. I don’t think I’ve seen a fix for that.
My fabric has 40% ways stretch both ways. The muslin, made in non-stretch fabric has excess ease. I had expected to remove some circumference and maybe a little length in the crotch depth. I can pinch out about 4″ ease. But if I baste the seams deeper, multiple diagonal lines develop. The waist doesn’t stay at the waist. It see-saws back and forth as described above. I’m sure my still expanded tummy and waist contribute most of the issues but how much is a result of the heavy weight fabric? How much is from the real stretch of the fabric? Is the excess ease an issue?
After more than a week, I dressed and took photos. Because of my typical dressing habits and how I stand these pants are wearable. Only trouble is, they are so heavy I won’t be able to wear them all day until November (when the cold weather returns). I spent Sunday afternoon completely finishing, took new pics and hung them in with the winter clothes.
Definitely think I made one change too many. I am taking a short break from pants. But when I return, I will make a pair like the muslin in non-stretch fabric except using Back 3 large. I need to make these changes slowly so I can understand where things went so wrong. Hopefully by November, my body will have settled and I will have this figured out.