I was pretty happy after wearing the previous pair for a day. Wearing confirmed my impression that the front crotch was too long. Both front and sides finally settled in about 3/4” above my natural waist. I didn’t take pics , but the back relaxed and moved from its previous dipped position to rest exactly at the waist. Back WB was still sitting lower than front or sides. As a whole I think this is a fabric issue as my non stretch jeans front, sides and back like to sit at my natural waist. This is for me an important distinction as if I ever decide to make a non-stretch yoga pant, I would want to start with my unaltered sloper. It also tells me what tissue tweaks I want to make next.
Knowing I have a goodly supply of pant weight Ponte’s that have been waiting for eons until I could find a suitable pattern, I decided to proceed making wearable-tests/muslins. I wont like the back yoke being smaller than I made it for Ver 1. So I copied and used my sloper yoke for 10% stretch as well as copying the back leg pieces. I trimed another 3/4″ from the top of the front leg Total 1.5″) and trimmed 3/4″ from the top of both back leg pieces. Then made a 3/4″ dart from side leg at the side seam, zeroing at the CB-leg seam. (NET: inseam leg lowered 3/4″; side leg 1.5″ at SS – 3/4″ at CB-leg). I trimmed 1″ length at the bottom of all legs. Feeling a bit confused, I transferred all the seam allowance markings and walked all the seams. Interestingly, the front leg was 1/8″ longer than the back legs which I promptly trimmed but otherwise I had made the correct changes evenly to all pieces..
I will want pants that adapt to me in all 3 of my basic colors (navy, black and chocolate). Since V1 Yogas were brown, I found a black Ponte with 30% stretch (both on and cross grain) to use. Unfortunately it only 2 yards long. At my garment size 2.25 yards is needed. It just takes a longer length to place all the pieces on grain because of their width. Knowing that this was a wearable-test, I placed the back, inseam-leg piece in the opposite direction. Normally I like to place the pattern on all stretch fabrics on-grain and going in the same direction i.e. all waist/neckline/sleeve caps pointing towards same cross cut edge. That’s a habit carried over from a terrible disaster (a real waste of money when I had no money to waste) and also an interesting experience in which all the pieces had to be not only cut the same direction, on grain but also sewn always from the same end i.e. always start at bottom or always start from top. Sounds weird but otherwise my top twisted. At the time other people were recounting the same experience. While I have a little more disposable income now, the fabrics are also a little pricier and I still hate to stupidly waste my money. Hence, I continue this habit of on-grain, same direction pattern placement but buy slightly more length.
I cut and fit the WB first. I stitched the top waist edge 1/4″ narrower and the hem edge 1/4″ wider than the pattern piece I created. It seemed a little snug at the bottom of the waistband. I let that go for now. I mean the WB does need to be snug to hold the pant up. Maybe the WB isn’t snug but just right? At the first fitting with the legs basted, I found that the legs were still 1″ too long and the pant was tight from hip to the waistband.
I saw crumpling over the back crotch and back leg in the first fitting and the WB looked tight at its bottom edge once again suggesting that was too small. I started a round of adjusting the ease at the side seam while removing length between WB and back crotch. Repeated once before I realized that I might not be making the right corrections. I have this other issue everytime I fit Trudy Jansen’s 906. I create a sharpe back-crotch angle between low hip and WB. Not a drafting error at all. This happens as I trim seam allowances and adapt for the difference between waist and hip by adjusting waistband, yoke and seam depths. The end results in a poof of fabric in the center back of the torso. It’s very obvious when using non-stretch fabrics. But these pontes and the like, just sort of droop all the way to the knee. Rip. Rip. Rip. Thank Heaven for water-soluble thread which removes so easily. I had added a gusset to the WB and side seam. Ripped that out and basted at 1/4″. I had off set the yoke and the WB from the legs to remove length. Rip that out and baste back at the drafted seam allowances. Then carefully stitch a seam which smooths the back angle.
I’m not sure I”m describing this phenom well enough so let me share a few pics.
This is what I sew if making the back crotch seam an even depth
Wasn’t sure the basting showed up clearly enough so I created a pink/purple line to following the stitching. Se how it angles out sharply from the top to bottom of the yoke and them seams to lean back-in as traveling on?
This is what happen when I try to make a nice smooth angle — no zig to right or left but excess fabric created in the seam allowance.
On the pant it self (sorry hard to see I know) On the left below the yoke especially folds together.
That is removed in the pic on the right but there is still some crumpling happening and some curved or diagonal lines across my seat. Which, thank fully, do not extend all the way down the leg.
They are mostly below the cusp of my seat and to the thigh (there are break lines at my knee but I don’t worry about them).
The white you are seeing is water soluble thread which I haven’t completed dissolved.
So this pant could use some more tweaking. there is poofyness below my tummy and light diagonals between seat and knee. I’ve already been working on it 3 days. I’ve already made 5 different fittings. I’ve decided I am not going to make 15+ fittings as I have for other pants. It is frustrating and sometimes I seem to just get in a loop; make a change, need another change; need the first change adjusted and repeat. So while I see there is still some work needed, I think this black will not show many wrinkles. Take a look at the final, unlightened pics:
It’s good and enough!!!
ETA Found a Pinterest that shows pretty close to the wrinkles I”m getting
Pants Fitting Adjustments: Best Tips for Pants Fitting the Sasha Trousers
I wouldn’t have said I have a flat seat, but the pic fits!
SUMMARY of CHANGES
- Leg trimmed additional 2.5″ (total 4.5″ less than original pattern)
- WB two 9×25″ with side seams angled so the fold at the waist will be 8″
- Top of leg
- front trimmed 1.5″
- Side Back 1.5″ at SS .75″ at CB-leg
- Inseam Leg .75″ even
- Ease added
- 1/4″ starting at top of waist band to 10″ down side seam.
- Seam Allowance Adjustments
- yoke/top of leg changed to 1/4″