906, Yoga Pant w/Yoke

Yogas in January

I am continuing on with the tweaking of my Yoga which was made by adapting my beloved Trudy Jansen 906 jean pattern. This time I’m using a fabulous Ponte purchased from who I know not because I have once again lost the tag. But it just feels of superior quality and I know I have been buying a better quality of Ponte. I had altered the pattern some after the last pair so that was my starting point.

Sad, despite the work previously done. Odd too. Odd because I know how my woven 906 jeans are much nicer. Maybe a knit fabric is not a good choice for this pattern?

I did  4 fittings. I offset the yoke and top of the back leg twice (total of 2″) until most of the bagginess was gone. Then I started working on the fabric snuggling between my cheeks. In the end I stitched the crotch 1/2″ deeper and wider. The result

I still see issues, but I’m much happier with this back view.  I do wonder if some of the issues are because my alterations were uneven. Like maybe I I offset the yoke 1/8″ here and 1/4″ on the other side.  Also wonder how much my posture has todo with those wrinkles because I have 2 other fittings in which the right back leg hung perfectly– and the left had only a few dimples.

I will shorten my back crotch pattern piece 2″ before making the next pair. Until then, I will be happily wearing these

906, Yoga Pant w/Yoke

A Pant Fitting Break-Through

I’ve worked off and on for months fitting Trudy Jansens 906. I’ve used a variety of fabric and innumerable fitting techniques.

Summer shorts on the left; fall jeans and Yogas on the right

I’ve had to struggle  not only due to the fabric but also to my changing body. Jun and July were really weird as my waist/abdomen could change drastically between morning and evening. Although I’ve been wearing less than perfect pants nearly all year, I consider the struggle successful because their fit slowly improved.

My latest pair of 906 Yoga’s constructed with a heavy Ponte De Roma.

I don’t think this fit is perfect but it is good. I stopped here and finished by serging all the seams because I realized I had made a series  of changes not all of which might be needed be in future pant sewing. Along with that idea came the thought that I couldn’t transfer my changes to the tissue.  I couldn’t trust they’d all be needed. What I need is start once again from the cut fabric, testings to see which changes are needed and which were not.

The big breakthrough?

I’ve been making changes based on the premises that I had a prominent seat which needed more ease along with  a longer and deeper back crotch.  My break-through happened when I saw a pin which showed that I needed the shorten the back crotch length and , trim some length at the inseam like this:

In my defense, I corrected a lot of wrinkles along the way. It wasn’t until I reach the point where the only remaining wrinkles were these commas that I decided to try the alteration above. It worked! Well it vastly improved the look of my latest Yogas (navy above).

I was so delighted that I tried it out on a pair of RTW pants:

Before alteration   /   After alteration

Look how different the backis!! My alteration is a 2″ wide dart, widest-end at the CB crotch.  I place it where you would normally expect a yoke seam. These could stand a little more work but they I have grown out of them~Thanks to Chemo and Steroids~  Fortunately they were not terribly expensive and at the time purchased I deemed them “wearable” not excellent fit.

Having finished the navy pants shown above and on the index page, I am a happy camper.  Ready to start sewing more pants using this new found information.

What the pants look like on me.

 

 

 

906, Yoga Pant w/Yoke

V2 Yoga Pant

I was pretty happy after wearing the previous pair for a day.  Wearing confirmed my impression that the front crotch was too long. Both front and sides finally settled in about 3/4” above my natural waist. I didn’t take pics , but the back relaxed and moved from its previous dipped position to rest exactly at the waist.   Back WB was still sitting lower than front or sides. As a whole  I think this is a fabric issue as my non stretch jeans front, sides and back like to sit at my natural waist.  This is for me an important  distinction as if I ever decide to make a non-stretch yoga pant, I  would want to start with my unaltered sloper. It also tells me what tissue tweaks I want to make next.

Knowing I have a goodly supply of pant weight Ponte’s that have been waiting for eons until I could find a suitable pattern, I decided to proceed making wearable-tests/muslins.   I wont like the back yoke being smaller than I made it for Ver 1. So I  copied and used my sloper yoke for 10% stretch as well as copying the back leg pieces. I trimed another 3/4″ from the top of the front leg Total 1.5″) and  trimmed 3/4″ from the top of both back leg pieces.  Then made a 3/4″ dart from side leg at the side seam, zeroing at the CB-leg seam.  (NET: inseam  leg lowered 3/4″; side leg 1.5″ at SS – 3/4″ at CB-leg). I trimmed 1″ length at the bottom of all legs.  Feeling a bit confused, I transferred all the seam allowance markings and  walked all the seams. Interestingly, the front leg was 1/8″ longer than the back legs which I promptly trimmed but otherwise I had made the correct changes evenly to all pieces..

I will want pants that adapt to me in all 3 of my basic colors (navy, black and chocolate). Since V1 Yogas were brown,  I found a black Ponte with 30% stretch (both on and cross grain) to use. Unfortunately it only 2 yards long. At my garment size 2.25 yards is needed.  It just takes a longer length to place all the pieces on grain because of their width.  Knowing that this was a wearable-test, I placed the back, inseam-leg piece in the opposite direction.  Normally I like to place the pattern on all stretch fabrics on-grain and going in the same direction i.e. all waist/neckline/sleeve caps pointing towards same cross cut edge. That’s a habit carried over from a terrible disaster (a real waste of money when I had no money to waste) and also an interesting experience in which all the pieces had to be not only cut the same direction, on grain but also sewn always from the same end i.e. always start at bottom or always start from top. Sounds weird but otherwise my top twisted. At the time other  people were recounting the same experience. While I have a little more disposable income now, the fabrics are also a little pricier and I still hate to stupidly waste my money. Hence, I continue this habit of on-grain, same direction pattern placement but buy slightly more length.

I cut and  fit the WB first. I stitched the top waist edge 1/4″ narrower and the hem edge 1/4″ wider than the pattern piece I  created.  It seemed a little snug at the bottom of the waistband. I let that go for now. I mean the WB does need to be snug to hold the pant up. Maybe the WB isn’t snug but just right?  At the first fitting with the legs basted, I found that the legs were still 1″ too long  and the pant was tight from hip to the waistband.

I saw crumpling over the back crotch and  back leg in the first fitting and the WB looked tight at its bottom edge once again suggesting that was too small.  I started a round of adjusting the ease at the side seam while removing length between WB and back crotch. Repeated once before I realized that I might not be making the right corrections.  I have this other issue everytime I fit Trudy Jansen’s 906. I create a  sharpe back-crotch angle between low hip and WB.  Not a drafting error at all. This happens as I trim seam allowances and adapt for the difference between waist and hip by adjusting waistband, yoke and seam depths. The end results in a poof of fabric in the center back of the torso. It’s very obvious when using non-stretch fabrics.  But these pontes and the like, just sort of droop all the way to the knee. Rip. Rip. Rip. Thank Heaven for water-soluble thread which removes so easily. I had added a gusset to the WB and side seam. Ripped that out and basted at 1/4″. I had off set the yoke and the WB from the legs to remove length. Rip that out and baste back at the drafted seam allowances. Then carefully stitch a seam which smooths the back angle.

I’m not sure I”m describing this phenom well enough so let me share a few pics.

This is what I sew if making the back crotch seam an even depth

Wasn’t sure the basting showed up clearly enough so I created a pink/purple line to following the stitching.  Se how it angles out sharply from the top to bottom  of the yoke and them seams to lean back-in as traveling on?

This is what happen when I try to make a nice smooth angle — no zig to right or left but excess fabric created in the seam allowance.

On the pant it self (sorry hard to see I know) On the left below the yoke especially folds together.

That is removed in the pic on the right but there is still some crumpling happening and some curved or diagonal lines across my seat. Which, thank fully, do not extend all the way down the leg.

They are mostly below the cusp of my seat and to the thigh (there are break lines at my knee but I don’t worry about them).

 

Finished Pant:

The white you are seeing is water soluble thread which I haven’t completed dissolved.

So this pant could use some more tweaking. there is poofyness below my tummy and light diagonals between seat and knee.  I’ve already been working on it 3 days. I’ve already made 5 different fittings.  I’ve decided I am not going to make 15+ fittings as I have for other pants. It is frustrating and sometimes I seem to just get in a loop; make a change, need another change; need the first change adjusted and repeat.  So while I see there is still some work needed, I think this black will not show many wrinkles. Take a look at the final, unlightened pics:

It’s good and enough!!!

 

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ETA Found a Pinterest that shows pretty close to the wrinkles I”m getting

Its from:

Pants Fitting Adjustments: Best Tips for Pants Fitting the Sasha Trousers

I wouldn’t have said I have a flat seat, but the pic fits!

******

 

SUMMARY of CHANGES

  • Leg trimmed additional 2.5″ (total 4.5″ less than original pattern)
  • WB two  9×25″ with side seams angled so the fold at the waist will be 8″
  • Top of leg
    • front trimmed 1.5″
    • Side Back 1.5″ at SS .75″ at CB-leg
    • Inseam Leg .75″ even
  • Ease added
    • 1/4″ starting at top of waist band to 10″ down side seam.
  • Seam Allowance Adjustments
    • yoke/top of leg changed to 1/4″

 

 

906, Yoga Pant w/Yoke

906 Yoga Pants

I started with my size 20 tissue created for a 10% stretch fabric. Decided I wanted my Yoga waistband to be 3″ wide. The drafted, contour waistband finishes at 2.25″. I need .75″ more trimmed from the top of the pant. I considered removing the .75″ from the top of the two leg pieces but then decided to try cutting down the back yoke instead. One alteration instead of two, sounds good to me IOW I altered the front pant leg and the back  yoke and I was ready tocut fabric.

I hunted through my stash – why am I always doing that- finally settled upon a 20% twill polyester. It’s a great fabric. Almost put it back on the shelf then decided I’m wearing the 10% stretch version and it looks good enough. Should not be hard to make a 20% stretch version look nice too.

I pressed my fabric and laid out the pattern pieces before cutting out the Yoga waistband.  I think I learned from Peggy Sagers to fit the Yoga waistband first.  It tells you more than just the waistband fits or doesn’t fit. It tells you if the fabric has enough, too little or too much stretch which equates to finding out with an 8″ wide strip of fabric whether the next version will be too loose, too tight or just right. Well, I cut the strip wrong. I need 8″ wide ((3″ finished WB)*2 +two 1/2″ seam allowances) by 47″long.  Of course, I didn’t have enough fabric to cut the waistband again. Panic ensued while I figured out the fabric also had 20% stretch lengthwise  ( cut with grain). However I was still a little short lengthwise, so I cut two 8×25″ strips.  (Note:  I need to be sure the finished WB will slip up over my hips without a great deal of struggle, hence have a waistband as long as the circumference of my hips) WB was a little big right at my waist, so I stitched an angled seam reducing the actual waist circumference another 2″. I could have reduced it some more but decided instead to quickly solve the issue of fitting at the waist by basting 40″ of elastic into the waistband.

So then I proceeded to cut the 4 other pieces from the fabric; serge finish all the raw edges (I wasn’t sure of how much fitting I’d need to do), and finally basting all the leg seams and the waistband together.  I turned the hem up 1.25″ and basted it in place before taking the first fitting pics.

To my delight,Fit 01 didn’t look like it needed major changes.

Lightened 70%

Subsequently I made 3 changes  I shortened my elastic 3″;  increased the CB-leg seam depth 1/8″ between high hip and hem; and hemmed the legs 3.5.

Lightened 70%

Then I quit.

Fitting pants is really difficult for me.  I’ve already accepted  that a different fabric, fiber, stretch even sometimes just color could make a difference in how the fabric handles or drapes. So I know a pattern I have “fit” will  probably need minor adjustments from one garment to the next.  This last year I’ve come face to face with a few other issues.  I’ve found out that many people, me included, are not the same size in the morning as they are in the afternoon. Typically we are taller, slimmer in the morning. Which means what fit in the morning will probably feel tight in the afternoon. I definitely see different draglines between morning and afternoon fittings. My body is in flux due to the chemo therapies and surgery I’ve undergone this year.  I can be bigger today , smaller tomorrow and vice versa. I can gain weight (which I do almost weekly) but  my garments seem loose; or my weight stay the same but my clothes feel tighter.  Really throws a wrench in my fitting efforts because I fit over multiple days. My habit it to baste the basic and/or  make changes thereto; take pics and then run upstairs to view the pics and determine the next change.   I physically cannot make endless trips up and down the 15 stairs I must traverse to reach my sewing heaven.  Usually I can make 1 sometimes 2 fittings per day. I think a unique issue I’ve faced is the difficulty of fitting much loved elastic waist styles (like the yoga pant in today’s post).  I’ve decided, I  need to reduce my fitting standards. Besides 15 fittings never gets me to perfection. That many fittings is just frustrating because the fit will look different in 20 minutes.  So I hope you will understand why I called these “good and enough”:

Lightened so we can see the drag lines:

I want to wear this pair a time or two before making any more changes. right now it feels like my waistband is coming up too high on my torso.  The front tummy and both crotches look different every time I try on the pants even though I’ve made no changes to the crotch length or depth at this point. . For me the real story is, I like these. There is room for improvement but they feel comfortable and I am sure they look as nice as any Yoga Pants I’ve seen walking around in the stores.

With shoes, socks and coordinating top: