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Something to share

I’m noticing that I dress in black nearly every day. My favorite neutral is Blue. 2nd fav Brown. Black is a safe option. It’s abundant both in RTW and fabrics.  I don’t eschew black, but in my mind it’s not my primary neutral. What’s up with the daily parade of black outfits?

I examined the pants hanging in my wardrobe. At the beginning of winter I had a wide range of colors and weights. As winter has worn on, I’ve discarded a few. Here and there. I found I absolutely do not like the now popular lantern leg. Just. Don’t. Like. To wear.  Think it looks lovely on others and Ok on me. But they feel awkward when worn. Out went the 3-4 pair of lantern leg pants. Also out, thankfully there weren’t many of these, pants with too much ease at the waist. They were a result of sewing pants that had to have enough ease to pull up over my hips and then snuggled at the waist with elastic. Two solutions, 1) don’t make non-stretch fabrics into pull-on pants; and (2) make stretch pants just big enough to stretch up over my bum. Nice to have solutions, but I’m down 3 pairs of pants. Not that I would be nekid tomorrow. I have far too many clothes because I love to sew clothes.  I did encounter a third issue resulting from my excitement at Peggy Sager’s pants fitting procedure. The procedure absolutely works, except that some of my pants have become restrictive across my front thigh. There’s enough ease. But when I move it binds across the front thigh.   I carried the horseshoe dart completely across the front from inseam to side seam. I suspect that from my figure it should have terminated on the inside third of the front leg. Something I can fix in the future, but another 2 pants were removed from my wardrobe because I can’t stand for my pants to bind … anywhere.

So what’s left?  Mostly black pants and mostly Diane Gillman Super Stretch. I need more pants. I can’t live my life exclusively in jeans. I don’t even try.

So I want a few pairs of pants quickly. TNT’s to the rescue. Uh Oh. I was so excited about Peggy Sagers fitting procedure I vowed to refit all my pants using her method.  The one’s I’ve fit so far are going to need tweaking and to my horror, previous fit pants tissues no longer exist. I threw them all away.  How can anyone be so dumb as to discard perfectly fitting pants patterns!

Which brings me to today’s post.  I wanted dark blue or dark brown pants. Preferably blue. Dark colors because the crap they put on the snow has a tendency to mix with oils and crap on the roads; be thrown up onto cars and passersby. This mixture absolutely ruins lighter colored clothing. Dark colors are better at hiding the winter spots.  I look through my stash for winter weight fabrics and discover I’ve been very good at acquiring stretch fabrics.  I chose a chocolate-brown sueded brown fabric because it has the least stretch, 10% but still is a good winter weight.

I traced a new copy of Trudy Jansen’s 906 which I selected according to rear size although that tummy of mine is beginning to warrant consideration. I shortened the leg 3″; trimmed the center back leg and  inseams to 1/4″. Trimmed the crotch to 3/8″ but otherwise cut the pattern as drafted. I serge finished side seam and crotches; installed the zipper and front pockets. Serged the back leg seam; applied pockets…

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Embroidered the pockets in dark brown while I was working on zipper and front pockets.

…and the inseam before basting the pant together.

The first fitting told me, this pattern was a right as ever! I scooped the back crotch 1/2″ and offset the back leg and yoke 1/2″ to remove the excess length.  That makes the front side seam too long so I trimmed a 1/2″ wedge from side seam to pocket opening at waist.

I find there’s only so much I can do to the fabric then I have to alter the pattern and start again.  Pattern Alterations
Two 1/8″ tuck along waist band

Trim 1/8″ from side seams at waist

Upper leg shorten 1/2″

Wedge 0 directly under front pocket;  1/4″ at side seam; 0 1/3 into back leg

Scoop

back crotch 1/4 curving upward to

front crotch 1/8  — I was beginning to see a little camel toe. Easiest fix scoop the front for a little more room.

 

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So this pair is not 100%. More like 97%. I know people who would kill for this good. I see the front needs to be picked up a little bit more. Promise, almost all those wrinkles I’ve marked in orange will disappear.
x_resizedscn7438_exposure_resizeAnd the X wrinkles will go away with just a bit more scooping, maybe a little deeper tuck across the hip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Truth is, these pants are so dark, no one but me (who lightened the pics 100%) is going to notice:

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