By not repeating the laundry list of alterations at the end of the first post, I hope to put all the Muslin 2 fitting in one post. I copied the original Purchased Halston tissue one more time. Made changes as detailed in the previous post.
The back was both more and less complicated. Instead of slash and spread for the waistline dart, I made a tick mark 1″ out from the waist and then drew a mostly-straight line from hip to waist. Back waist dart, DONE.
To add length to the back crotch extension, the experts advise slicing vertically into the crotch and spreading the slice the amount needed. That might be fine for 1/4″ or so, but my 1″ spread really distorted the pattern.
Slice and Spread
Notice that in order to spread the slice, I had to make it about 6″ long. Otherwise the entire area buckled and was not a flat pattern. Even at 6″ the sliced away part is still buckling a little.
Below, look at how a 1″ slice and spread forms a gigantic peak
You’re not going to wear that. I’ve tried. It is an uncomfortable bump. It has to be fixed; trimmed. OK but how?
If I trim by extending the existing crotch straight out, I make minimal change to the existing crotch shape. But I will add inseam length (pink line) when I join the inseam to the new crotch extension. I definitely do not want to add more inseam length. I know what happens when seams are not the same length. They gather or ruche. Alternative is to add more to the front crotch extension. Nope. Seen that too. The crotch sticks out in front. Men don’t want that. Why would I ?
A second option for “truing” the crotch is…
.. drawing the crotch line from the inner curve to the old crotch point and trimming above your line. This does indeed maintain the original inseam, but that’s about 1/2″ being trimmed away. I’ve done this one too and it feels like I trim away about half of what I add. The fix for that, increasing the spread to 2″ , is ugly and feels weird. Yes, I’ve done that too.
So typically I make the crotch extension itself longer:
Which also means I need to draw a new inseam and will add a little more thigh ease along the previous inseam. However, the ease doesn’t seem to be that much more. I think I could remove an equal amount on the side seam. So far, I’ve just grudgingly accepted the additional ease. Grudgingly because I usually already have too much ease under my seat.
I had planned to smooth out the hip curve but I was uncomfortable with my changes. The previous dart method had added over an inch ease to the back all the way down to the knee. I did considering reducing the hip curve by comparing with my skirt sloper. But when I examine it closely, the curve is not really that curvy and my skirt sloper would only trim like 1/8″ I always thought my rear stuck out and my sides were flat. Could it be my sides are indented?
Anyway I finished alterations by changing side seam SA to 1/2″, crotch to 3/8″. You know, all my favorites. When I cut fabric I got cold feet and cut the back side seam at 3/4″ i.e. adding 1/4″ ease. Speaking of which, my fabric looked pretty good on the Fabricmartfabrics site. In hand it’s a different story. Boasting a fiber content of cotton//poly/lycra, with 20% stretch and a novelty weave, well it sounded good. I usually like a cotton/poly blend. However, I was truly disgusted after spending 10 minutes carefully pressing the yardage and it wrinkled horribly just being moved from ironing board to cutting board. I decided immediately this was not a wearable muslin, I don’t care how well the fitting turns out. I’m not fighting with a fabric that wrinkles that quickly that badly.
Just to prove my theory that pants are quick and easy to sew, I timed it. I did not finish seams. I am not adding pockets or belt loops. I’m not even finishing the waistband or stitching hems. So lots of things I would do, if these were ‘real’ pants. I cut and basted the whole thing, including zipper, in 45 minutes. See quick and easy. Another 15 and I could have had a wearable pair of pants.
was a relief. I was concerned I had removed too much ease. Instead the M2 had too much circumference
… and it’s still about the crotch length. Even that is good news! The back crotch looks and feels the right length. The front feels too long. While the length looks good in the pic, you can see the waistline tilts up at CF by looking at the side seam. A minor issue, is the distribution of the elastic. The waistband is 4.5″, folded in half (2.25″) less a 3/8″ seam allowance for a net of 1-7/8″ wide. I chose 1.25″ wide elastic. Should be enough to fill out the waistband/casing but still slide through easily. I stitched the waistband to the top of the pant at a 1:1 ratio before inserting elastic. During the first fitting I pulled the elastic through until the waist was comfortably close. Although I tried, I know the elastic is not evenly distributed within the waistband. I feel it and I see it in the pics. Parts of the waistline almost looked gathered.
I increased the side seams from 1/2″ to 1″ from the waistline down to the knee. I looked at the back and decided I wasn’t sure about losing ease by the knee when I was already getting drag lines there. I had removed the waistband from CF to about 4″ past the side seam so I could make the side seam increase evenly all the way up. Now, I reset the waistband 1/4″ lower in front graduating to default at the side seam. I also snapped the elastic a few times and tried pushing the WB along the elastic to redistribute. Not so sure I made any progress with that.
The waistband needs to be dropped another 1/4″ at CF. I’m getting 4-6″ diagonal/horizontal collapses of the side seam and under the front waistband that I think indicates the side seam is too long. I question this because just previously I had discovered the side seam needed to be longer to avoid those back diagonals. So I’m looking at conflicting signals. One says increase the side lines, the other signal says shorten the side seams. Which is right? I”ll have to test. Not showing are a set of pictures in which I pinched the side seams to determine how much ease I can remove and then took pics to make sure where it should be removed. In the pics it is obvious that while another 3/8″ ease needs to be removed it all needs to be removed on the front. Yes, already with Fit02 the seat is looking a little close. We aren’t seeing VPL because my panties don’t hold onto my legs where that lump is. Nonetheless the back and side views of Fit02, are saying ‘don’t remove any more here”.
Changes were (1) dropping the waistband in front a full 3/4″ , 1/4″ at the side seams, zeroing at 6″ from side seam; and (2) increasing the side seam on front only. I feel like I’m within striking distance!
I increased the side seams another 1″ from waistband tapering to nothing just above the knee. Along with the offset waistband the front pant is falling nicely. There is an additional crumple on the right side and a hint of key hole. Well maybe not crotch key hole since it extends -however faintly- to the waistband. I had scooped the crotch when I cut the tissue. It was needed to true the back with front after the I added 1″ to the back extension. I mean, I couldn’t not scoop. Keyhole was more prominent in Fit02, less in Fit 01. Was 2 little parens on the Purchased Halstons and the first Muslin. I have to work on this some how.
Quick look at the side seams which reflect the same drag lines as the front. Also note, that the waistband is level. It is not tilted skyward in front. Startling, the left side has a bit of ruching/gathing of front to back. If I look carefully I see it on the right side too. Must mean that front is longer than back? No, I solved this in M1 by adding more length to the back –not by shortening the front. But I’m close. I’ve worn pants like this and thought nothing wrong.
Even the back is encouraging
Believe that was a relief. I did not remove any more ease from across the back. I offset the waistband at the side seam but nothing else. Take a look at those back wrinkles in
Fit 01 and 02, 03
I’ve made a remarkable change in those. Just remarkable. Sadly, I don’t know what I did that made them better.
Question for me, is am I ready to make a ‘real’ pair of pants from this pattern? There are still some issues, but no pant is ever perfect. As soon as you move it will have wrinkles –or— you won’t be able to move. One easily, I hope correctable issue is the distribution of the elastic along the waistband. I tried to adjust the elastic distribution with every set of photos, including the set you didn’t see. It improved but is not good enough, yet. Knowing exactly how much elastic I need for this pant, I can now cut the elastic to measure; mark and secure at CB, side seams and front. The seam allowances are another correctible issue. I knew I had far too much at the waist and inseam, I didn’t expect to struggle quite this much with the side seams. Trimming the SA’s down and ensuring they are the same between sides and between front and back will make the pant hang better as well as clear up a couple of issues like the extra crumple on the right side under the waist that isn’t on the left. Been a good 2 days. Think I’m ready to move forward.