I looked over the holiday dressing I’ve sewn for the last few days and decided I needed to finish a 6PAC for the travel we plan to do in the next 6 weeks. Not that I couldn’t take things from my closet but I’ve made a nice start already with the shrug, tops, fringed skirt set and Leopard pants, KWIM. So my next garment is to be a 2nd pair of bottoms and since I will be in some nice places I opted to use a stretch herringbone I purchased about 2 years ago from Fabricmartfabrics.com Shopping on-line is kind of a crap shoot. I never really know how the nice the fabric will be until I get it and sometimes until I actually sew and wear it. This suiting was a surprise when it arrived and pleasure to work with. It is beefy, but drapes i.e. for all its cushy goodness it does not stick out adding more pounds to my frame . A stretch-woven fabric, it has my favorite stretch factor 10%. 10% usually gives me a nice stable garment, recovers quickly but doesn’t stretch out of shape.
I’m still perfecting the Woven Yoga pattern (Silhouette Patters 3414). I like it and wear the versions already made, but I think there is room for improvement and I would like a narrower hem. I transferred my last alterations and trimmed some circumference from the hem so I’m starting with a 22″ hem which is what I used to consider the ‘absolute max’ for me. I say ‘used to’ because the Autumn 6PAC contained Sally’s Pant #3200 with 25″ hems and it is lovely. Looks really nice on me. The fabric wins again (the fabric always wins). I also tweaked the previous alterations a bit more. I increased the 1/2″ hip line dart to 1″ and the inseam darts from 1/4″ to 1/2″ because the last 3414 still had diagonal lines across the back of the thighs.
But, there are things I already like about this pattern. The waist band fits comfortably and is easy to slide up over my hips. I love the leg- length. OK that should have been a given since once of the first things I did was alter the first tracing to my preferred length. I love how the pant falls smoothly on front, and sides. I’m not struggling with the lines between waist and hip; or the distribution of ease front and back. It is for the most part, already a very lovely pant on me. It’s just I would like to change the hem circumference and remove the diagonal back lines which appeared just as I fit the other areas perfectly.
I assembled the waistband read to be attached to the pant; and permanently stitched inseams and crotch. I turned up the hem using Steam-A-Seam to hold it in place during construction. Loving this pant as it is, although I would mind if it were 20″ instead of 22″ at the hem, I decided this was the time to work on fitting the back thigh.
I marked my prominent seat, then the bottom of the butt cheek and my knee. I offset the front to back leg just between knee and B-cheek. The offset looks like an orange slice or half a fish-eye dart. Didn’t know how much I wanted to remove, so I started with 3/4″ on the LEFT leg only
Good so increase from 3/4″ to 1″
Decided that my fisheye was too low, so I raised it 2″ which left a dimple just at my knee.
Sorry, forgot to lift my blouse for the pic so you can’t see the whole leg. I’m fine with the progress, except the side view didn’t thrill me
After that pic, I made the fish eye longer at both ends. That means I started it about even with my greatest seat prominence, kept the depth at the same place but extended the dart 2″ below the knee. Good. Repeat for the right leg, also good. No pics of the in progress because at this point, I said, “Done!” Really it was as good as I want. I do not mind a little dimple at the knee. I rather expect a close-fitting pant to have out-right horizontal pull lines right at the knee. So I’m thinking I’m all done and finished the pant completely, including serging the back side seam so it was an even 1/2″. I was hoping that would allow the side seam to relax and loosen any remaining pull lines on the side seam.
Did not t transfer the fish-eye dart It’s really big and looks weird.
I added a dashed, green line to help show how deep the change is and how long. When I transfer to the tissue, I want it to be a smooth curve. But I’m unsure. Should I transfer the entire dart to the side seam? Split between side seam and inseam? I don’t want to place it in the center of the pattern piece because that will warp the tissue. Also, when the hip line dart was added the hip curve changed. Adding the inseam dart changed the hip curve even more. Narrow the leg and the curve is emphasized. . Looking at it now and comparing with the front, I realize how much additional curve was introduced
I’m especially concerned because my body on the side is pretty straight. I’m wondering if I should start by smoothing out the curve, making it less convex and more straight up and down and then pin out the dart on both back inseam and side seam. ” Back” because the front is fine. It is the back under my bum and above my knee that need refining. Actually, I’m afraid if I start twiddling with the front of those seams I will ruin the front’s perfect fit. My fish eye dart starts at my hips greatest prominence which is several inches above the crotch point/inseam. I needed to extend it that far to make the fisheye less convex, yet I worry about changing the curve up there by my prominence where I need the circumference.
Then I wonder about other pants patterns. Will 3200 which fit so nicely just weeks ago, start developing the under butt lines when I start slimming the leg? Will I need a similar fisheye dart on 5268? Would the fish eye dart be the solution on past patterns that I’ve given up on (i.e. the Eleanors, PP113, etc). I just don’t know.
And why didn’t I do this fitting before? Really it was 3 quick lines of basting! Oh wait, I remember. I thought excess circumference would show up as vertical lines and the diagonal lines meant something else. I thought I wanted to correct the something else before tweaking the circumference.
Anyway finished the pant took final pics. Would you believe:
The da^^^ ^^ drag lines are back!