906, 906YogaNoYoke

Just when I think I’m done…

Oh I really thought I had it this time.

I added 1/2″ to the waist with a simple slash and spread like this:

Apologies for not having the link. This was originally created and shared as an individuals class work.  She truly deserves acknowledgement. 

 

Then I decided I was tired of fussing from waistband, to yoke to leg.  I added the yoke to the top of the leg pieces. Pant now has following pattern pieces:  front, back w/side seam; back with inseam and waistband.

I chose a nice quality black ponte from the stash.  Not hard to find since all my recent purchases have been nice quality.  I cut my fabrics and started basting together pieces.  Just before adding the waistband, I decided it was time to get rid of the extra length I always felt in front.  When I wear my yogas, they always rest above the waist.  Real yogas should sit about below about an inch.

The first fitting felt great.  Shortening the depth between waist and hip was perfect!  Then I looked at the pics and found the same old fold of fabric in the crotch.

I thought, if I make no other improvements, I’ve got to get rid of that fold. So I carefully marked and trimmed 1/2″ depth from the back crotch

Red crosses denote the area I scooped, which does lengthen the crotch just a little too. Well at this point the back looked much improved.

I thought all it need was a bit of lowering.  I dropped the  the crotch 1/2″ lower than drafted:

I expected great results. Near perfection.  I was so excited, I even told a couple of people I was close to fitting my pattern. Then I took pics:

Hardly.

Well, look at the positive side:.

Ample ease everywhere including waist.

Elastic is the correct length.

Fold in back crotch is gone.

Looks ok in natural light if I move around:

 

 

RTW-Altered

RTW #2

I bought a 2nd pair of Denim and Co jeans at the same times as the first..  This second pair is described as a “slim leg”.  On the models, including a plus-sized, it looked like what I wanted but  I have misgivings about the term.  I’ve ordered too many pairs of pants which the host described as “slim leg not a jegging”.  I get jeggings.  I ordered this slim leg but for insurance, I also bought the straight leg jean previously blogged about. Another obvious difference between the two is that the straight leg has a yoke – which complicated alterations. However, having seen the final fitting of the first jean, I wasn’t gung-ho to dive into the same alterations. I decided to take it slow. I took first pics i.e. what they looked like without alterations.

Then I added the elastic inside the waistband– just as I did for the previous pair–to make the waist snug.

I hemmed the first pair 2″ and still felt they were a little long–(but that’s the amount I turned up during fitting); so these I hemmed these 3″. Still shy about launching into 3 hours of alterations, I took a 2nd set of pics; and  compared with the first set and then with the previously altered jeans.  Wow not a whole lot of difference. I would need to invest another 3 hours of work into  alterations I wasn’t sure were make a whole lot of difference.  I left it overnight.

Returning the next morning, I finished. Nailed down what needed to be nailed down and invested a puff of steam into the hem; and I took more pics.

FINAL FIT

They’re pretty good except for the bagginess over the back thigh.

I  decided to look at the difference between the final of the First pair of QVC jeans and this 2nd pair

I don’t believe the 3 hours of alterations significantly improved the fit.

These Denim and Co jeans may not be high fashion but they come close to well-fitting. The waist is a little big, the leg a little long and they are baggy beneath the seat.  I am tempted to buy a 3rd pair but ensure I buy PETITE.  That’s what  I thought  I was buying this time but both my Order Status and the jeans tag say “W” (women). I’m curious as to whether the only change would be a shorter leg or if there would be some change to the baggy.

Oh well, while I contemplate that possibility, I’m going to enjoy wearing my dark-wash jeans.

 

RTW-Altered

Altering Denim and Co Jeans #1

I  wear nice slacks and love my Yoga’s but I have become a jeans-woman. They just fit the lifestyle. However my current rate of sewing + fitting produces a pair of pants in about 3 weeks. Due to the weight gain mentioned previously, I need pants I can wear n-o-w. My hope was I could buy RTW jeans and with an hour’s worth of alterations  produce a wearable jean. So I investigated Denim and Co jeans at QVC.  I checked QVC’s sizing charts before ordering. As usual, I am between sizes.  They recommend going down a size. I went up.  When I got the jeans I could see there was some validity to the sizing recommendation.  These are not constructed of typical jean denim. Not even jean denim with Lycra. The fabric is a french terry which looks like denim on the public side. Inside it is french terry, a knit fabric.

I started the alterations with the same frame of mind as fitting my sewn pants.  I tried them on checked for fit.  Thought the worst issue was bagginess under the seat and proceeded to shorten the back crotch 2″ and scoop the crotch 1/2″ — my now typical alterations.  Sounds quick and easy, right? Well there was a lot of ripping involved.   2 inches of length is a lot of remove. I had to remove the pockets as well as opening and repositioning the yoke and later stitch the pockets back on.  Scooping the crotch required that I open the part of the crotch where the inseams bisect and remove the double stitching along the back crotch upright.  I shortened the legs 2″ as they were too long (thought I bought petite but the tag says W).   Finally the waist was just a smidge loose. At first I thought I would just  stitch thought the waistband and take it in along the side seams. That was until I realized I would be creating a big lump.  Could not cut a slit and remove some of waist elastic length.  No the elastic was nailed into place.  I contemplated ripping but resorted to my lazy waist fix which is adding another layer of elastic along the inner edge of the waistband.

The elastic is secured about 8 times by straight stitching through the waistband and the new elastic.  This lazy fix is not noticeable because I’m either wearing a belt which covers the stitching or letting my top hang over the waist also covering the stitching.

The alterations took me about 3 hours when I only wanted to spend one. Oh and they were made over 3 days. Still that’s better than the 2-3 weeks to cut, baste, fit and stitch a new pair of me-made jeans.

The fitting results are questionable. I bought a dark wash blue. My favorite. I sometimes buy black. Rarely light colors. One of the nice things about the dark wash blue is that errors, fitting issues tend not to show.  I had to lighten the pics 70% to show you.

First fitting:

Looking in the mirror, they looked too long and a little baggy under the seat but otherwise IRL I thought they looked much better than here in these pics.

3 hours of alterations later…

….and I’m not so sure I should have doggedly pursued the alterations. Of course it could be my posture or all the handling but the unaltered pant looks better

Thank heavens for the dark wash; and with a little styling I’ll have no problems wearing these comfy jeans

906, Yoga Pant w/Yoke

Yogas in January

I am continuing on with the tweaking of my Yoga which was made by adapting my beloved Trudy Jansen 906 jean pattern. This time I’m using a fabulous Ponte purchased from who I know not because I have once again lost the tag. But it just feels of superior quality and I know I have been buying a better quality of Ponte. I had altered the pattern some after the last pair so that was my starting point.

Sad, despite the work previously done. Odd too. Odd because I know how my woven 906 jeans are much nicer. Maybe a knit fabric is not a good choice for this pattern?

I did  4 fittings. I offset the yoke and top of the back leg twice (total of 2″) until most of the bagginess was gone. Then I started working on the fabric snuggling between my cheeks. In the end I stitched the crotch 1/2″ deeper and wider. The result

I still see issues, but I’m much happier with this back view.  I do wonder if some of the issues are because my alterations were uneven. Like maybe I I offset the yoke 1/8″ here and 1/4″ on the other side.  Also wonder how much my posture has todo with those wrinkles because I have 2 other fittings in which the right back leg hung perfectly– and the left had only a few dimples.

I will shorten my back crotch pattern piece 2″ before making the next pair. Until then, I will be happily wearing these