I had decided to make an actual pair, with long legs and everything. Quickly realized, I would need to confirm the alterations I had settled on in the muslin. I mean, long experience has taught me that the pant in real fabric might look nothing like the muslin. I thought I might not have transferred the crotch changes correctly and since the muslin was in linen, I wasn’t sure about the ease. The muslin still felt a teensey bit close.
I started by transferring all the fitting changes to my muslin (see previous post) and then choosing another non-stretch fabric. The label read 100% cotton flannel “suiting”
I cut the fabric; inserted a zipper (this fabric felt nice and I thought I might have a wearable., and basted all the other seams with water soluble thread. I started making tweaking alterations. Shortening the back crotch 1/2″, took care of the bubble under the waistband
and, as suspected, scooped the crotch another 3/8″ I shortened the leg 2″ but it took me 3 tries to get there. Then I started narrowing the leg. I took new fitting pics after each increase to the seam allowance (Inseam 1/2″, 1″: side seam 1″, 2″, 3″) before realizing that the pant was growing on me. I’ve never had denim grow this much.. This “suiting” however kept getting larger every time I slipped them on!. I opted to interface all the legs, the waistband was already interfaced and was not changing size. Took the pant apart except for the front crotch at the zipper; ironed to remove wrinkles and then interfaced. I actually laid the leg wrong side up placed an uncut length of interfacing glue side down and then pressed the interfacing to melt the glue onto the fabric. This worked albeit a little bit of a hassle both arranging the interfacing on top and then trimming the excess interfacing. Trimming the excess was such a hassle, I clipped just under the waistband and had to devise a quick fix.
Quick fix was arranging the cut edges together and fusing a interfacing patch to the wrong side before zig zagging over the cut. At this point, I basted all the seams, increasing the side seam to 1.5″. Pant was still too big so I increased the side seam another 1.5″, yeah I was swimming in them. Just a little snug across the tummy now but, it looked good. At this point I had put the pant on 10 times. I was over it but was going to persevere narrowing the leg until I sat back and got an overall view of the pant so far. It really wasn’t bad which surprised me because I had a 28″ hem circumference. So I finished it!
I’ve got these Hiked up on my body a little
I was pleasantly surprised that the wide hem looked as good on me as it does. Usually anything more than 20″ and I look like I’ve been swallowed. This will be a fine plazzo pant version. Once the back slides down in place, it will look roomy over the thigh but waist, tummy hip and crotch are excellent.
So these are in the closet. I transferred the shortened crotch and leg length alterations but only trimmed 1/2″ from the seam allowances. Even though I increased the side seam allowance 3″ I am not sure that would apply to every fabric. I will make another pair to work on narrowing the leg, later. I’m going to give it a rest. I need an easy success.
Here I am gussied up a bit. Not bad for a wide leg pant!