So I copied my pattern and applied only the changes I knew worked which are
- adding 1.25″ for hemming (discarding the cuff piece of the original pattern)
- the 2″ Hip Line dart
So then I made a template of just the waist to crotch portion. I’m going to be experiementing and I think failing. I’d like an easy way to restore the crotch. Kind of a reboot of the tissue. So a template that I can quickly run a pencil around instead of tracing a new copy off the original pattern.
The back template includes the 2″ hip line dart. I also drew a green line on my pattern which corresponds with the bottom of template so I can put them back in place quickly.
I think the only solution for that front pooch…
is adding more ease over my tummy. That’s not my pubis. My pubis is a few inches lower. That pooch is the fabric trying to stretch over my tummy and then being suddenly released. That pant (from my 2017 Autumn 6PAC) feels comfortable. I’d never know I had the front crotch issue except that I both took pics and lightened them enough to see any issues. Anyway, I think the solution is adding an unsewn dart to the center front. Pretty sure that’s the solution because I learned it from Nancy Zieman many, many years ago. Back when I was about 130 pounds when sopping wet. I’ve always had a tummy. It’s my personal physiology. I’m just built this way. A little extra ease in front which is created by adding a little dart at the waist was always the answer. Apologies I did not take a pic. I extended the pattern horizontally out from the CF 3/8″ then drew an angled line back to the crotch about 7″ below the waist. I’m hoping it works or at least helps. If not, well I’ll think of something else. At least, that’s what my mother always said about us kids.
Next up is that back thigh. I don’t want to change the length of the back crotch. Dang that was comfortable. Don’t want to shorten the length of the extension. That too added great comfort. I just want to take some of the ease out below the crotch. So I made a dart in the well of the back crotch.
Yeah, I just slashed from crotch to knee and overlapped 1/2″ on either side taking out a total of 1″ ease .But of course that shortened the 15.5″ back crotch length I so loved. It had to be restored. I fetched the flexible ruler and placed rubber bands at 0 and 15.5″. Then wrestled into a curved shape as close as possible to what was already there
I marked inside that curve and trimmed it away
Since I had the rotary cutter in my hand anyway, I reached across and nipped off that angle which formed when I made the Hip Line dart
Really, I have zero confidence that I am right. About the crotch. I’m sure that nipping off that point on the side is right and adding the 3/8″ at CF is right (maybe not enough but the right step towaard the needed correction.) I think I have made reasonable, logical decisions. But I’ve never heard of anyone else doing this. Pretty sure it is a total deviation from standard pattern drafting. If Peggy says I’m 100% absolutely wrong, I believe her. But this crotch looks a lot like my beloved Trudy Jansen Jean. I think I could be on the right tract. The only way to be sure is testing. But that zero confidence tells me to choose a muslin fabric. Even though I’ve managed to make a couple of Vanessa’s I really like, I’ve made a big enough change I might NOT be able to wear this one. Muslin it is. My muslin of choice is a stretch twill. It has 20% stretch and I’m pretty sure what isn’t Lycra is cotton. I’ve had the fabric roughly 8-12 years. It is an odd green, may look like yellow in the pics but it is green. Not sure why I bought it. I rarely wear light colors for pants. Even more rarely do I wear vast expanses of green. Consequently this fabric has set in the stash season after season, year after year. I’ve handled it but always put it back in the stash. Sometime during one of last year’s shelf refoldings, I moved it from the stash to the muslins. If the pant is wearable, I don’t think I have any tops to wear with it. If it isn’t wearable, well no big deal. It’s served an honorable purpose and we can all doff our hats and thank it for its sacrafice.
Postulating aside, I pulled the lycra/cotton, green twill from my muslin stack, pressed pretty well (could be better) and laid out my pattern pieces.
As is my habit, I turned off the lights and went up stairs for the evening. I like giving myself time to reflect. Especially when I’ve made on-the-fly questionable decisions.