I thought I had enough of this bright, linen fabric
to make a muslin but I was a little short. The legs aren’t exactly the same length and I had to patch the top of one of the fronts. You’ll also note the pics, show a rather soft yellow
that’s because I’m using the wrong side of the fabric as the public side. I just knew looking at all those bright colors would make it impossible for me to see any fitting issues!
With two previous linen muslins, I was surprised that this muslin needed the fitting it did. I was expecting quick and easy but I suppose that the tissue changes suggested and implemented were really significant. Above is the first fitting. I used the previous linen WB thinking that would reduce fitting time. Well I made the mistake of serging the raw edges enclosed with the elastic already inserted. The serging of course, caught the elastic and prevented it from snapping back after the pant is pulled up. Consequently, I tugged the pant up just a little during pics trying to keep it at the waist. Bad idea.
Fit 02 involved nothing more than doing the waistband like it should have been done the first time. However I did see some progress. The slash and spread alteration (discussed in the previous post) added length to the side seam as well as doing all the good things it did. I was able to tell from this fitting the precise narrow triangle of fabric to remove from the top of the back. I penciled that in on the tissue but I don’t want to make tissue changes yet. I took note that as a whole that tilting of the back hip improved the look of the pant. I wore the new waistband for a few minutes before deciding the elastic was too loose. Took out 5″ of elastic before I was satisfied with the snugness. I also found the front crotch seems a little long. I didn’t change it immediately. Thing is, it had been fine in every previous fitting, now in this muslin it wants to continue up over my tummy nearly to the bra band. I put the WB where it should stay and then, ignoring issues beyond the waist, I took new pics.
The front waist looks like it is dipping but I also think that I hiked up the sides because you can see those pull lines on the back under the waist and hip that were corrected when Jen said “pull down the sides.” Even from the side views you can see the front dipping. Partly, that is me, not bad photography (although the photography could definitely be improved.) I’ve known since I was 15 that my front crotch was shorter than the back and that my waist/hip appear tilted/tipped downward in the front. (Incidentally, that’s part of the reason I have a prominent seat i.e. tilting lifts the butt.) This is my posture. At my age, I feel it is best to adapt my garment to my posture. So I posted these pics on FB and waited for Jen’s suggestions.
For Fit 03, following Jens suggestions, I pared away the jodphurs. I’m sure you noticed them sticking out like Mickey Mouse ears. I know what created them. My sides are pretty flat. My tush is pretty curved. When I scooped the back crotch to make room for my seat, I lost valuable ease. I compensated for it by adding what I scooped from the crotch to the sides. When the side seams are redrawn, an arc develops. Interestingly with the torso tilted back in place, all the ease on the side is not needed. . I really have some flexibility issues. So “pin it out” (referring to the jodphur) was not easy for me. I used a combination of pins, where I could reach to pin, and washable marker marks where I couldn’t. 3 tries later, I was close…
I have it too tight which is causing the pant to hang-up above my hip and create the pooch beneath the waistband. Also it’s possible I have the sides pulled up creating the diagonals beneath the seat (why do I do that? Anybody?) Above is not my typical standing position. Advice for taking fitting photos included “stand with feet about shoulder width apart”. I wonder if we’re really seeing the effect of knock-knees or is it just awkward posture???
There will be one more post about this muslin. Currently the hem circumference is 26″ which to me means classic trouser. Classic trouser, especially in non-stretch fabric needs generous ease. I plan to let the sides out about 1/2″; photo; and copy the 3 changes to pattern (shorten side back, shorten front crotch length, jodphur-ectomy). I will share the final pics and preserve the resulting pattern. On occasion, I like a full legged pant. My occasion happens to be summer and fabric of choice a rayon or rayon crinkle. Having a well-fitted pattern for this purpose is valuable to me. Mu plan is to copy the full-legged pattern and develop and more narrow leg. But, you know how plans go…….