So as I was saying, having given this pattern the light touch, I realized it was time to do something. I ripped out all the seams (easy to do with the use of water-soluble thread in the bobbin) pressed everything nice and flat and set them aside.
Started with the waistband since it needed the least attention. It’s the one place I always want negative ease. Can’t explain my feelings other than when the waistband is equal to or smaller than my waist, I never feel like my pants are sliding down. Once removed from the muslin, I serged the long, raw-edged side. Then marked the center back and 18.5″ from each side of CB. That makes it 37″ long. Depending on the day and my then current waist size, that gives me anywhere from -.5 to +.5 inches of waist ease.
I decided I wanted to restart fitting 3218 close to its base; close to how it was drafted. I reasoned that both my RTW jeans and my favorite jeans pattern started with standard drafting (which is where Peggy starts too). My RTW and fav pattern have adaptations for the mature, feminine figure. Silhouette Patterns makes drafting adjustments but not to the degree of either of the previous 2 nor is she targeting the aging female. Peggy is trying to sell a pattern that can be used by many if not all women; DG2 (my RTW jeans) and Trudy Jansen 906 (my fav pattern) have a targeted audience and are not worried about selling to such a broad audience. My point is, they all start with basic drafting and make some changes. DG2 and TJ make more than Peggy. So, I want to start my fitting back at the basic drafting Peggy provides. To do so, I need to restore the crotch I mutilated in Fit 05. I could have started with new fabric. I’m thinking I don’t want to use all my fabric fitting 3218. I may want to make a second test when I think 3218 is pretty good (I’m optimistic) to verify my changes. In that case, I’d really like to use the same fabric. I’m leery of changing fabrics. I have had too many -um- interesting experiences that had to be solely the result of a different fabric. I don’t want to deal with that hence I’d like to keep the remaining fabric for possibly a 2nd muslin. Anyway, I thought of how I could restore the crotch, the obvious choice of attaching a strip popped into my head.
I cut a strip about 5″ wide and longer than the front crotch. Placed the strip flat on the inside and joined to the muslin using the honeycomb stitch. Shown above is what it looks like on the inside and outside after joining. After the pics, I trimmed the strip close to the honeycomb stitching. Otherwise it wanted to fold and get in the way.
Then I turned my attention to the tissue, starting with the front:
I thought the front of Muslin 1 was pretty good at the first fitting other than not having enough ease for my tummy. In the pic above, I have trimmed the front, side-seam allowance to 1/2″, my preference for side seam allowances. I trimmed away the front fly then added a strip of aisle runner before drawing a 1/2″ wedge at the center front starting at the waist, zeroing about 8″ down. Followed that by adding the zipper fly which when sewn would be 1-1/4″ wide (it includes the 3/8″ SA of the center front). I marked the HBL’s at High Hip, Low Hip, and Crotch.
Turned my attention to the back and thought, all I need here will be my HBL’s and I want to mark the knee. Marked all of those with a Sharpie; repeated the HBL’s on the front
Then its time to recut fabric to reflect my tissue changes.
I fold the front and back legs up 5″. I don’t need the length during fitting. In fact, I don’t want the full length because, being too long, the pant leg will buckle. I’ve seen some of those ‘buckles’ stack up the pant leg imitating other fitting errors. Pant fitting is my sorriest skill. I am desperate to eliminate anything and everything that could lead me astray. Hence, folding up the pattern piece 5″. That also allowed me to position the front pattern piece on the fabric in such a way to completely recut the front
Repeat with the back except I had to make use of most of the previous cut edge. I transferred the dart lines, HBLs and added 2 new horizontal lines spaced evenly above the knee below the crotch on both front and back pattern pieces.
Above, I’m sharing only the back with all the lines drawn and the front looks much the same.
I have several concerns about this whole process. I’m not sure how far off-grain I may have gotten when I recut. Also unsure of how accurately the HBL’s are placed. But they are in the neighborhood and knowing they could be inaccurate I will consider that in later alterations.
I basted the zipper at its ‘new’ location. Basted all the seams together carefully aligning the side seams so that both the front and the back are basted on the original stitching line. This was awkward but I really wanted to start at square one i.e. as close as possible to what Peggy draftedt. Alright, I’m not quite at square one since I retained the additional 1″ crotch height and added the 1/2″ wedge at CF. But I”m close so I tried on the revised muslin and took pics!
I was expecting the waist not to fit. I mean I added more waistband length compared to the first fitting and I added the extra ease with that 1/2″ wedge but I still I didn’t think it would be correct. Man I was ever surprised when I clipped together the waistband center-fronts and had a Goldilocks experience — not too big, not too small, just right.
The pic tells me I’m not there yet. From the “curves” and the HBL”s, I can tell I still need some ease a little further down maybe starting 2″ below the waist to about 1″ below High Hip.
Isn’t it interesting at how I can say the same thing about the sides as I did about the fronts by looking at the angle of the side seams? They want to pull forward from waist band almost to the high hip They say, I need more tummy room.
I look at these 3 pictures (front and both sides) and realize I will need to add another wedge to the front starting at the waist, but terminating at the low hip to be sure I am adding enough ease through the upper pant. If I make the wedge 1/2″ wide at the waist, zeroing at the high hip or just below, I won’t add much through that area. I don’t like adding this much ease, but I can see I need about 1″ at the waist then zeroing at the low hip. This is will be a slash/spread and insert fabric strip on both sides of center front.
May as well take a look at the back. I mean I took the pic, we may as well at least see what is back there, eh?
I did not stitch the darts. After making changes to the front I was unsure of what the dart width would need to be, so, I made a tuck at the waistband. I made the tuck where the center dart would be stitched. Interesting how said tuck wants to unfold towards center back? I think I should move the dart/tuck towards CB. Now here’s something really interesting:
On the left, is the back crotch of Take Two (I’m calling this exercise 3218 Take Two) and the back crotch of Muslin 1, Fit 1.
I still need to add a bit of ease. Not sure about crotch length but I think it is fine? Thinking back to the other fittings of the back crotch, I’m just amazed. Amazed at how adding ease to the front waist/torso made the back hip fit better. Remember, I have stitched both of these views (Muslin 1 and Take Two) on Peggy’s default stitching line. Then the front has a 1/2″ wedge adding circumference to the waist and the back has 1-1/2″ added to the crotch length. The difference between the two backs in this pic is limited to the added front-wedge i.e. the crotch length was included in Muslin 1 Fit 1.
I also thought it would be interesting to take a close look at back leg between thigh crease and hem:
Are you asking yourself if I’ve done some kind of sleight of hand? Was the pic Photoshopped? The only difference, beyond the front wedge, could be my stance. I am sure I am like you when I say, “Really? Adding 1″ ease at the front waistline made that difference to the back leg?”
Well, I’ll be back tomorrow. It took time to get this far. So much time that I’m actually surprised that I had pant photos to show.