Kessinger

Recap: Judy Kissinger

I was struggling with Eureka, which I very much wanted to use, when I ran across FitNice by Judy Kessinger. The Eureka has a very precise fitting process. If you don’t follow it, they promise your pant won’t fit. So I was impressed by Judy Kessinger’s easy fitting process. I hemmed and hawed before taking the plunge because well she’s not exactly cheap. Finally decided taking a break from the Eurekas could be nice especially since I was running out of ideas of how to fix them. And, you know,  it wouldn’t be the first time  I followed the siren song of a new pant pattern.

A long video is available to help fit the Kissinger pattern or you can read the directions or you can read the instructions printed on the pattern.  I watched the video.  Not surprisingly  a larger size for my waist and then a smaller one for my hips was recommended. I figured out my sizing and traced in no time.  Judy also provided a couple of pattern tweaks which she stresses must be made before you cut fabric.  I made what she calls the ‘butt lift” i.e. a small dart precisely placed in the back crotch.

I made a test garment. which was really a success story. A fluke success since I never repeated the lovely fit which was achieved by letting out the side seams just a bit.

This is one of those fabrics I bought and wondered why. Not sure where it came from on the content but it did not have any detectable stretch. I thought all its ills were due to the elasticated WB.

I continued with Judy’s easy instructions; trimming the excess front the waist and marking that on the tissue. Didn’t really want to wear this pair of pants. Just didn’t like the fabric but hey! I’m ready to sew a good pair, right?

So I select another fabric, this time a nice suiting. Five fittings later..:

…I give up. This version fit better if I turned it around and wore the butt in front. I set it aside  (it’s still a UFO).  I was so surprised at the difference between pair one and pair two that I took both pairs apart and compared them.  To my surprise the no-stretch fabric from pant #1 had indeed permanently stretched! It was no longer the shape of the tissue and it was much larger than nice suiting.

One of the issues I had was the traveling waistband. The elastic did not want to remain at my waist. That’s because my tummy has become very rounded.The waist band wants to move up to a narrower part of my body (my bra band). Unfortunately, along with it,  the back is pulled down and through my legs. I really started thinking about not using an elastic WB. So for the next pair, I removed the WB extension from the pattern and made a straight WB.  I’d also found that I didn’t need the large pattern size and made a straight size 48.

The fabric is a very dark brown sateen with 10% stretch.  After 5 fittings there’s still room for a little improvement but overall the pants are wearable.  In fact because of the dark brown, none of the drag lines I worry about show.

Good deal, right? I decide I’m read for shorts.  I mean it is summer.  I’ve been fitting long legs because I’ve learned the pattern isn’t really fit until I’ve worked out the issues of the whole leg. But I’m wanting shorts in the closet for wear. I select a pink, non-stretch cotton twill. I’ve wanted this as a pair of shorts since last year.  Now’s my chance.

Now, granted I could have made more fitting effort. I only made 3 fittings and definitely messed up by not shortening the sides more. It was obvious in the brown sateen pants that shortening the side seam was still needed.  Shortening the side seam would have fixed both front and side view issues, but I am not sure about that butt.  It feels comfortable.  Unfortunately here is where my Sewing Angel started singing about her jeans.  She made me drool and I had to make a pair. Which ended up being a couple of pairs of jeans and several shorts which I shared just before the two Recap Posts.

I won’t always be so enamoured with my TJ906 jean pattern. In time I shall work with the Kessinger again/. I think it needs more work but I also know there are things I can do to improve the fit.  I am not out of answers here just a bit flighty.  Besides the shorts above don’t look all that bad if I pull myself together a little.
 

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Fitting Summary

  • Size 48 + 1/2″ ease for slightly differing fabrics.
  • Butt lift alteration in tissue
  • Shorten side seams
  • Straight WB