Jinni

On the Quest for a Better Fitting Leg

I made this Jinni  using the leg with the center back seam; and a nice 10% stretch, grey tweed fabric. This fabric is a little light for winter wear so the pants might actually see more use in the other 3 season of the year. A big plus is that it does drape nicely. IOW, I’m not blaming the fabric this time.  Nor do I have the pattern issues experienced with my last pair, Crepe  Jinni‘s. The pant should fit with little effort and it did, initially.

I have not settled the issue of exactly where the waistband needs to be placed. Interestingly the waist band needs to be the same length each time but the crotch depth seems to change. So where it it attached to the pant is the issue.  I will blame that on the fabric but it is easy to correct and prepare for.  I have a 1″ seam allowance at the top of pant leg. I baste the WB in place and then adjust it up or down as needed. Took me 2 tries. Ripped it out once and the second was perfect. My plan worked!! The whole pant hung smooth and lovely.

So I started adjusting the shape of the pant legs by adjusting the center-back, leg seam. Not sure exactly where or how much I could change, I worked on only 1 leg. The leg started having long vertical folds and diagonal pull lines. I made 5 adjustments, changing where I started taking in and how deep. The wrinkles would change but not go away until I took out the entire adjustment. I thought maybe the issue was that the CB leg needed to stay on the straight of grain. So I tried adjusting the side and inseams.  Nope. Same vertical and diagonal drag lines. OK, maybe the leg I was working on was somehow not cut on grain. I know off grain pieces will fall weirdly. In retrospect I should have realized this probably wasn’t a grain issue because without the alterations at the seams, the pant hung beautifully.   I changed and worked on the other leg. Same results PLUS along the way I kept noticing that the area between WB and seat would develop V’s and the CB under the waist would look poofy. Easy fix, take in the CB another smidge. Which also means taking off the WB and adjusting. it.

To make a long story short (I have been working with these pants since I posted the Crepe Jinni’s) (15 fittings), I realized I was going around in circles. Whatever was “off” was something I couldn’t identify. Worse yet, the final back and front…

no longer hung perfectly!  Fortunately, the sides do look nice:

My trouser pattern does have excessive ease. I never think twice about the long vertical folds except that they worsened during adjusting the seams for a closer fit– I removed ease and the vertical folds got worse!!

I know somebody is going to ask, “Why are you trying to change a perfectly fitting pair of pants?’  Because I prefer big on top and slim on the bottom. These trousers look fine when I am posing for fit pictures. But combined with a typical me-top and a typical me-stance the story is a little different:

 

They are definitely not fashionable; nowhere near au current. But, they are comfortable; they fit better than anything else I’ve had to wear this year; and they make exactly the kind of shorts I am most fond of ROOMY..