HalstonSlacks

Halston M2 (Muslin 2)

By not repeating the laundry list of alterations at the end of the first post, I hope to put all the Muslin 2  fitting in one post. I copied the original Purchased Halston tissue one more time. Made changes as detailed in the previous post.

The back was both more and less complicated.  Instead of slash and spread for the waistline dart, I made a tick mark 1″ out from the waist and then drew a mostly-straight  line from hip to waist. Back waist dart, DONE.

To add length to the back crotch extension, the experts advise slicing vertically into the crotch and spreading the slice the amount needed.  That might be fine for 1/4″ or so, but my 1″ spread really distorted the pattern.

Slice and Spread

 

Notice that in order to spread the slice, I had to make it about 6″ long. Otherwise the entire area buckled and was not a flat pattern.  Even at 6″ the sliced away part is still buckling a little.

Below, look at how a 1″ slice and spread forms a gigantic peak

You’re not going to wear that.  I’ve tried. It is an uncomfortable bump. It has to be fixed; trimmed. OK but how?

If I trim by extending the existing crotch straight out, I make minimal change to the existing crotch shape. But I will add inseam length (pink line) when I  join the inseam to the new crotch extension. I definitely do not want to add more inseam length. I know what happens when seams are not the same length.  They gather or ruche.  Alternative is to add more to the front crotch extension. Nope. Seen that too.  The crotch sticks out in front.  Men don’t want that. Why would I ?

A second option for “truing” the crotch  is…

.. drawing the crotch line from the inner curve to the old crotch point and trimming above your line. This does indeed maintain the original inseam, but that’s about 1/2″ being trimmed away.  I’ve done this one too and it feels like I trim away about half of what I add. The fix for that,  increasing the spread to 2″ , is ugly and feels weird. Yes, I’ve done that too.

So typically I make  the crotch extension itself longer:

Which also means I need to draw a new inseam and will add a little more thigh ease along the previous inseam. However, the ease doesn’t seem to be that much more. I think I could remove an equal amount on the side seam.  So far, I’ve just grudgingly accepted the additional ease. Grudgingly because I usually already have too much ease under my seat.

I had planned to smooth out the hip curve but I was uncomfortable with my changes.  The previous dart method had added over an inch ease to the back all the way down to the knee.   I did considering reducing the hip curve by comparing with my skirt sloper. But when I examine it closely, the curve is not really that curvy and my skirt sloper would only trim like 1/8″ I always thought my rear stuck out and my sides were flat.  Could it be my sides  are indented?

Anyway I finished alterations by changing side seam SA to 1/2″, crotch to 3/8″. You know, all my favorites.  When I cut fabric I got cold feet and  cut the back side seam at 3/4″ i.e. adding 1/4″ ease.  Speaking of which, my fabric looked pretty good on the Fabricmartfabrics site.  In hand it’s a different story.  Boasting a fiber content of cotton//poly/lycra,  with 20% stretch and a novelty weave, well it sounded good.  I usually like a cotton/poly blend. However,  I was truly disgusted after spending 10 minutes carefully pressing the yardage and  it wrinkled horribly just being moved from ironing board to cutting board. I decided immediately this was not a wearable muslin, I don’t care how well the fitting turns out. I’m not fighting with a fabric that wrinkles that quickly that badly.

Just to prove my theory that pants are quick and easy to sew, I timed it.  I did not finish seams. I am not adding pockets or belt loops.  I’m not even finishing the waistband  or stitching hems.  So lots of things I would do, if these were ‘real’ pants. I cut and basted the whole thing, including zipper, in 45 minutes. See quick and easy. Another 15 and I could have had a wearable pair of pants.

Fit01

was a relief.  I was concerned I had removed too much ease. Instead the M2 had too much circumference

 

… and it’s still about the crotch length.  Even that is good news!  The back crotch looks and feels the right length. The front feels too long. While the length looks good in the pic, you can see the waistline tilts up at CF by looking at the side seam. A minor issue, is the distribution of the elastic.  The waistband is 4.5″, folded in half (2.25″) less a 3/8″ seam allowance for a net of 1-7/8″ wide.   I chose 1.25″ wide elastic. Should be enough to fill out the waistband/casing but still slide through easily.  I stitched the waistband to the top of the pant at a 1:1 ratio before inserting elastic.  During the first fitting I pulled the elastic through until the waist was comfortably close.  Although I tried, I know the elastic is not evenly distributed within the waistband.  I feel it and I see it in the pics. Parts of the waistline  almost looked gathered.

Fit 02

I increased the side seams from 1/2″ to 1″ from the waistline down to the knee. I looked at the back and decided I wasn’t sure about losing ease by the knee when I was already getting drag lines there. I had removed the waistband from CF to about 4″ past the side seam so I could make the side seam increase evenly all the way up.  Now, I reset the waistband 1/4″ lower in front graduating to default at the side seam. I also snapped the elastic a few times and tried pushing the WB along the elastic to redistribute. Not so sure I made any progress with that.

 

The waistband needs to be dropped another 1/4″ at CF. I’m getting 4-6″ diagonal/horizontal collapses of the side seam and under the front waistband that  I think indicates the side seam is too long. I question this because just previously I had discovered the side seam needed to be longer to avoid those back diagonals. So I’m looking at conflicting signals. One says increase the side lines, the other signal says shorten the side seams. Which is right? I”ll have to test.  Not showing are a set of pictures in which I pinched the side seams to determine how much ease I can remove and then took pics to make sure where it should be removed.  In the pics it is obvious that while another 3/8″ ease needs to be removed it all needs to be removed on the front. Yes, already with Fit02 the seat is looking a little close. We aren’t seeing VPL because my panties don’t hold onto my legs where that lump is. Nonetheless the back and side views of Fit02, are saying ‘don’t remove any more here”.

Fit03

Changes were (1) dropping the waistband in front a full 3/4″ , 1/4″ at the side seams, zeroing at 6″ from side seam; and (2) increasing the side seam on front only.  I feel like I’m within striking distance!

I increased the side seams another 1″ from waistband tapering to nothing just above the knee. Along with the offset waistband  the front pant is falling nicely.  There is an additional crumple on the right side and a hint of key hole. Well maybe not crotch key hole since it extends -however faintly- to the waistband. I had scooped the crotch when I cut the tissue.  It was needed to true the back with front after the I added 1″ to the back extension. I mean, I couldn’t not scoop.  Keyhole was more prominent in Fit02, less in Fit 01.  Was 2 little parens on the Purchased Halstons and the first Muslin. I have to work on this some how.

Quick look at the side seams which reflect the same drag lines as the front. Also note, that the waistband is level. It is not tilted skyward in front. Startling, the left side has a bit of ruching/gathing of front to back.  If I look carefully I see it on the right side too. Must mean that front is longer than back? No, I solved this in M1 by adding more length to the back –not by shortening the front. But I’m close.  I’ve worn pants like this and thought nothing wrong.

Even the back is encouraging

Believe that was a relief.  I did not remove any more ease from across the back. I offset the waistband at the side seam but nothing else.  Take a look at those back wrinkles in

Fit 01 and 02, 03

I’ve made a remarkable change in those. Just remarkable. Sadly, I don’t know what I did that made them better.

Question for me, is am I ready to make a ‘real’ pair of pants from this pattern? There are still some issues, but no pant is ever perfect.  As soon as you move it will have wrinkles –or— you won’t be able to move. One easily, I hope correctable issue is the distribution of the elastic along the waistband. I tried to adjust the elastic distribution with every set of photos, including the set you didn’t see.  It improved but is not good enough, yet.  Knowing exactly how much elastic I need for this pant, I can now cut the elastic to measure; mark and secure at CB, side seams and front.   The seam allowances are another correctible issue.  I knew I had far too much at the waist and inseam, I didn’t expect to struggle quite this much with the side seams.  Trimming the SA’s down and ensuring they are the same between sides and between front and back will make the pant hang better as well as clear up a couple of issues like the extra crumple on the right side under the waist that isn’t on the left. Been a good 2 days.  Think I’m ready to move forward.

HalstonSlacks

Halston Muslin

*** All pics in order left to right Fit 01 through Fit 06 ******

 

So this was a series of tweak, tweak, tweak. In the end is not wearable but is very informative.

I made only  6 fittings which really didn’t seem like  many or that much effort because each fitting was quick and I made small changes. Nothing big. Nothing very involved.

To my surprise at Fit01 the front crotch was not too short!

I added 1.25″ to the tissue’s front crotch length. I reduced that length during the the first 3 fittings until only 1/4″ remained.  1/4″ more than Halston drafted.  The front crotch looked and felt comfortable throughout the remaining fittings with no further adjustments.

 

At the same time I was reducing the front crotch length, I was adding to the back crotch 1/2″; then 1″ to the upright and again 1/2″ and 1″ to the extension. I added strips of fabric at the waist both the top of CB and at the inseam along  on each back thigh.  I started with enough fabric for the CB additions and was able to tweak the CB length easily through the following fittings. The crotch extension was a different story.  I made the 1/2″ addition. Not easily but at least it looked good and did not noticeably change the crotch shape. The second addition went wrong.  I did not get 1″ evenly added to both inseam which is obvious in the pics and BTW felt wrong during the last fitting.  Even so,  I think an additional 1″ at CB top and 1″ in the extension is the right decision.  While the crotch didn’t feel perfect, it felt better with every change AND, very importantly to me, the waistline appears pretty level front, back and sides.

When viewing the pics above, do allow for the fact nearly all cameras introduce a slight fish-bowl effect. In these pics that could mean the sides could appear to be a little higher than CF or CB.  As far as I know, it takes a very expensive camera to completely overcome that tendency.  So when I get close, I call it good.

The next issue I dealt with was the uneven side seam lengths.

.

 

For the first fitting I eased one side and offset the other i.e. on one side I stretched the side seams to match on the other I placed the back side seam 1/2″ lower than the front side seam. I couldn’t tell any difference.  So Fit 02, I eased-made both sides, all pieces to the same length. Oh my! It was obvious that wasn’t right. The front side seam ruched or gathered to the back side seam.  At the same time I added the strip so I could add length to the CB crotch, I made it long/wide enough so I could add 1/2″ on both back side seams. Surprisingly, the back still ruched.  I don’t know why but it did.  Next fitting (Fit 04) I made the back side seams 1″ longer than originally cut. Smack my head, now the back ruched.  Final fit, I made the back side seams 7/8″ longer than the original. Which mostly worked?? The left side seam looks really good. But the right is still ruching a little. I am assuming that, as with the crotch extension, I did not get lengths the same on both sides.

I struggled with the leg length.  I do love having a 16″ hem circumference; but, throughout the first 5 fittings the legs would buckle and stack. On fit 4, I opened a 4″ vent which helped, but not until I basted the hem twice as deep as the original, did the legs hang smoothly. If I were younger, this would not be an issue. They don’t mind a little slop in the lower leg.  I feel differently which means I have some decisions to make.  I can eliminate the slop by increasing the hem circumference to at least 18″.  I could do a combination of increasing the hem circumference to 17″ and making a deeper hem (making the leg shorter). I could keep the 16″ hem circumference and find a corresponding leg length (I think 2″ shorter). It’s something to consider.  I could always decide to embrace the slop.

Finally, as seen in the crotch pics above, and to my utter shock, this torso had too much ease.  Deep vertical folds developed on both front and back between the waistband and the knee.  The waistband of the pant is adjusted through the WB elastic. So no matter how much fabric is wrapped around the waist, the waistband fits.  Between knee and hem are drafted for a slender leg and just what I was looking for.  The torso is a different story.  It had the ease of a pleated trouser, which is was not. It was a a slack.  I could settle for a pleated trouser. In fact, I won’t trash this tissue just in case I want that option in the future.   ATM, I’m really wanting a slim fitting slack. Not close fitting. Not trouser fit. But slim; sliding past all the curves but not flaring on the way to the hem.  I have the ease worked out -almost-  through a combination of offsetting the back side seam a 1/2″ away from the front side seam; and increasing the side seam depth until it was 1-1/4″  at the deepest on the back pieces. (that would be 1-3/4″ on front).  The seam allowance is variable i.e.not an even  depth from waist to hem.  At the waist it is only 1/2″ on front, 1″ on the back.  At the knee it returns to 1/2″ both front and back. In between it increases and decreases in depth to remove ease as I desired.

This changes wil be interesting to transfer to the tissue. For transfer  I must. I was far too optimistic when tracing and making this first muslin. The narrower seam allowances are already fraying and as I said, I did not sew the last crotch extensions evenly.  I think I’m at the point of needing a new muslin.  May as well make a new tissue too with known changes. While I’m at it, I did not like the method I used for adding the back dart.  I think I added unneeded ease across the back torso and thigh. Now seems like a good time to try another solution.

The final fit:

Not perfect but on the way to being much better.  I’m not upset or even dismayed.  I’m not ready to throw in the towel. Feel no need to curse or howl at the moon.  I had hoped I would be further along but it was obvious to me during fitting I had some work to do. Muslin 1, last fitting is much nicer than the first fitting and a lot nicer than some of my other recent muslins.

As always, it is too d@mn bad  fitting pants is so hard, because sewing them is a snap.

 

 

 

 

HalstonSlacks

H: The First Tissue

I’ve been puny about a week.  Not exactly sick but not a lot of energy either. So I didn’t get as much done today but at least I did make progress.

I worried about the side lengths overnight. This morning I gave the pant pieces a  quick press then smoothed and pinned them out once again upon the tissue. I was sad to see they fit within the traced lines.  I unpinned and left them alone thinking perhaps I had stretched them into place and if I allowed them to relax, they might change. 20 minutes later, nope. I measured the sides for an umpteenth time. It was sheer desperation.  Despite the fact I had measured over and over last evening, I hoped it was in error.  Well son-of-a-gun. Now the back measured 38.5″ and the front 38.75″. Huh? Measured again. 38.5/38.75 ??? After the third measure with the same results, I figured I was just brain-dead last night.  I’d rather the difference be 1/8″.  I would just brush that off.  Accept as my error.  1/4″ does concern me but I think I can work with it.

So time for a muslin? No. I have some issues still.

Consider the crotch.  Definitely felt too tight in front while the back waist, hip, crotch all look really good with maybe a little dipping at CB

I didn’t feel the dipping so it could be my bad photography skills.

The front is a little different and puzzling me.  It felt tight and there is poofiness but below my tummy. The only issues I can see are the very, very small parens by the bottom of the crotch:

Otherwise, the front looks like a pleated trouser; and those parens  are so small, I would be tempted to just reshape the front crotch a little and call it done.  I think alteration #1 will be adding 1″ length to the front crotch.

While I won’t change the dimensions or shape of the back, I do want to incorporate the dart in my pattern which is in the pant. I also don’t want to change the first tracing at all.  If whatever I do makes a mess, I want to be able to return to this basis. So I began today by drawing a dark line around the Halston Tracing. I used a black Sharpie to darken the line (useful when tracing) and pressed a ruler into service straightening/smoothing all the lines. Then I trimmed the tissue but kept a generous perimeter i.e. I didn’t cut on the black lines.  Next, I traced a new copy and this is where the changes started:

  • Side Seam Allowances +1/4″
    • for a total of 1/2″ my preference
  • Crotch+1/8
    • for a total of 3/8″ my preference
    • When I added the 1/8″ to the front crotch, I also smoothed out that bump
  • Hem -1/4″
    • for a final 1-1/4″ hem  my preference.
  • Front crotch add 1-1/4″ length
    • That is a big wedge.  Just to make it easier when restoring the cutting line, I made two 5/8″ wedges.  There’s no difference in making one big or two small other than it is easier to see where to draw the new line and a little less scary since you’re add/removing small bits twice instead of a big one. Oh, it is a little more work.
  • Front Crotch added cut on fly.
    • Fly will be 1-1/4″ with the 3/8″ seam allowance
  • Back 1″ dart added
    • This was an “Oh My” experience. The dart is clearly 1″ stitched to a net of 1/2″. Well making a 3″ slice and spreading it 1″ doesn’t work so well. It creates quite a bubble.  Flatten it and I’m clearly losing length and shape and “Oh My”.  First I increased the slice to about 12″.  That made for a smaller bubble but lower down in the ever-troublesome back-thigh.  I increased the slice all the way to the inseam- I copied the position, direction and length from the fabric. The slice made along that line headed in the direction of the inseam.  It did lie flatly even if it did add a bit of easy all along the way. I may need to tweak the shape of the side seam later.
  • Waistband 4″ x 23″
    • That’s only half. It needs to be cut on the fold
    • Probably too long but can be adjusted. Besides, elastic works wonders.
  • Walk the seams
    • Always have to walk the seams. I learned the hard way any time you plink with the tissue, walk the seams. Make sure they are still the same length.  Uneven seam lengths can cause numerous errors and a great deal of misery.  All of which could have been avoided by spending 10 minutes walking the same.

All done. Time to find fabric. I was dismayed at first when I couldn’t find fabric with 25% stretch. I pulled out the pant again and remeasured. Sigh of relief, 4″ stretched to 4 3/4″ not 5″. A full 25% stretch is not needed. Now I have plenty of fabrics to choose from including a nice, light-colored fabric that is very similar in hand, weight and stretch to the purchased Halstons.

 

HalstonSlacks

Halston Starting a Pattern

Time to get with the actual copying.   Long ago I tried Nancy Zieman’s method of smoothing the garment, pinning and transferring the seam lines to a piece of tissue.  As always, she made it look easy; or at least doable. When I tried, I nearly lost my mind. No, I got really frustrated.  Garments don’t want to lie nicely and stay there for any length of time. Too bad I don’t have the patience and skill for the method because it is possible to produce a good pattern without damaging the garment. Sigh, for me it mean ripping seams. I tried first to rip the side seam and the waistline; spreading open one-half the pant.  I pinned and started tracing the back because I thought it would be easier and give me time to think of how I was going to handle the front and the fly. 

Frankly it was hard to accurately trace the crotch with the other half of the pant still attached; clumping; pulling etc. Equally difficult was trying to trace the inseam by pinning it to the tissue, flipping the front leg over -which never really got out-of-the-way because the other half of the pant was still attached. Didn’t take long before I decided I needed to rip it all apart. Well at least one back and one front. Inseam and back crotch separated easily, that front zipper was a doooozzy.  Why is everyone so enamoured with multiple pieces for fly zippers? Don’t y’all wear underwear?  The purpose of the shield which takes at least 2 additional pieces and lots of sewing, is to protect your tender skin and hair.  Panties solve that issue and a few others. Well I digress. I unpinned from the tissue. Took the garment to a chair and finished ripping out the front and back while watching HSN hawk computers. Truly wish I had done that before. Didn’t take long at all to have a front and back separated, pressed and pinned to my tissue.

Showing front pinned to tissue.

Tracing then was very quick. It was even possible for a ruler to assist me. Oh and I used a wash-away felt-tip pen from Crayola–the marks definitely disappear in the wash.

It was a good thing that I didn’t rip all the seams!  I didn’t measure seam, hem or waistband allowance before starting. Now I measured the still sewn-together half and recorded that on my tissue. Then I started measuring; and measuring and measuring.  Noted a couple of things, not all good. My front side seam is 1″ longer than the back. I don’t think that’s right, but I measured it repeatedly.  My back inseam is 1/8″ longer than the front.  (Sounds like a user {me} error. ) Seam allowances were variable, as is typical in RTW but I warn you, if your Halston’s are a little tight, buy a bigger pair. The seam allowances are a scant 3/8″ or generous 1/4″. You can’t let that out. Hem was an  unusually generous 1- 5/8″ .  I noticed that the jean’s hems (that I’m sending back) were closer to 5/8″. The waistband is 45″ long including 4″ of overlap.  Like my DG2’s, there is elastic inside-no interfacing or other stabilization. The elastic is how the waist fits all day long. DG still uses some other stabilizers. Usually light-weight and just in certain spots subject to strain.  I’m hoping the Halston’s are as durable without the extra stabilization. The zipper was nailed in there. I absolutely prayed while taking out one side and half the bottom.  I could not see well due to the dark thread, dark fabric, dark zipper. Knowing it was a critical area, I persisted. The front doesn’t have any darts.  The side seam must be cut in a curve.  The back however has a 1″ waist dart which makes the side seam curve.  I’m puzzling because I think the side seam curve is only 1/2″. So what is the effect of the other half of the dart?  Is it changing the back crotch?  No, I’m not going to rip it out.  There are working, welt-pockets on both back pieces.  I am not ripping all those pieces apart.  I’d never get them back together and I still have intentions of wearing this pant rather than just paying $50 for a pattern. I was happy with the crotch lengths. The back crotch will finish the same length as my Aug Bowl and the nicely fitting M3; the front however is short 1″; which confirms how I felt when the pants were on me.  BTW, I think that’s due to my tummy.  I added 1.5″ to M3 to achieve that nice fitting crotch. When I think about it, Halston probably did most women a solid with their front crotch length.  It would be good for so many. Me, I need more length.

The last thing I want to share, is the grainline I placed on my pattern pieces

I placed the grainline by measuring width at the hem line i.e. 1-5/8″ above the bottom edge. I divided that in half and carefully aligned my ruler with the hem’s orientation then drew a line extending upwards all the way.  The back is very, very similar to Wm Lehman’s illustration

My grainline terminates about 1/2″ away from the CB edge; 1/4″ away from both the crotch and inseam SA’s. Also note that beautiful L shaped crotch. No shallow scoops for Halston pants. At this point I haven’t incorporated the back dart.  I’ve just noted it’s position, width and length along with all the other measurements I’d taken.  I’m a believer if you have the measure it once, you’ll probably need to measure it again.  May as well write it down where you can find it.

Note the front grainline too

It too bisects the leg at the hem but as it extends upward, that changes. The front torso must also be tilted; probably not as much as the back ?  My front crotch is not a nice swooping curve. It undulates a little.  I traced it faithfully. The bottom of the pant crotch was trimmed maybe 1/8″.  The part which was included in the fly, was not trimmed. I didn’t know that at first. Had to go back and look carefully at both the separated front and the front still attached. I think smoothing  the bottom of the curve removing that undulation is in order. The Halston front had a pocket. I didn’t make any notations because, I prefer to make my own pocket pieces.

Sooooo, end of another day of intensive examination.  I did take a few minutes to compare the tissue with V1411. There are similarities of course, but I am experienced enough to know the two will produce different fit. The Halston is definitely tilted at the torso and the leg much slimmer (yeah!). I’d like to tweak the fit closer to my ideal which I think is increasing front crotch length, removing some excess fabric from the backside and removing some length from the side. It may be that making the front crotch length closer to my own will fix both front and back issues. I am hoping tweaking is all I have to do since I’m starting so close. I really am hoping the Halston draft is repeatable.  I have doubts because the same size jean didn’t look nearly as nice as the slack I’m copying.

Time to take a break and just think.

 

 

 

HalstonSlacks

A Halston to Copy

I purchased/charged the Halston pants with the intent of making a pattern if they fit nicely. I’ve decided to have a go at making a pattern from the medium blue slacks, return the light blues that were too big along with the jeans which did nothing for my tush:

Probably someone out there is asking “Are you sure you want to copy those med-blue pants? They’ve got issues in the back.”  Yes but the picture was enhanced by changing the exposure greatly so we could see the drag lines.  IRL that blue is considerably darker…

..and the drag lines hardly noticeable. I have worn worse-looking pants and I think this may be corrected by scooping the crotch. Most importantly, this pant is better than any I’ve been sewing lately. Not to mention, I haven’t been able to keep RTW pants in a long time. I try them on in stores. When I can pants looking good on  model with a similar body, I order pants through on-line shopping shows. Other than the DG2’s, they all go back.

But before I started copying, I was eager to check the grainline.  The friend who recommended Halston, also stated the pants have a very unusual grain line (which she believes is the reason for her excellent fit.) I plan to send the light blue pants back because they would need complete recutting to be worn but I used them because the grain should be most easily detected.

Oh, my word!  The twill weave is so tight I could not see the grain.  I tried rubbing a little with a lead pencil. No help.  Tried several different colors of chalk.  Still no help.  Holding up to the light, nope. A little water, no. No! No! No!  I used the chalk and lead because those are usually easily removed. I plan to send these back.   I’m desperately  hunting for something that would make the grain more visible but not make the pants unreturnable. I ran upstairs and found a strong magnifying lens. Sure that helped (read with sarcasm). I could see the cross grain just fine. But not the grain.  I could not find the grainline using non-damaging methods. Arghhhh!!!!

Well I learned long ago to trust that nothing is ever truly a waste of your time.  This is one of many incidents that confirms my trust. Remember the drafting I did back in August. I stumbled and essentially failed but I did learn that the grain line is positioned mid-way at the hem and will be perpendicular to the cross grain.  So if that’s true I should be able to align the short end of my ruler with the cross-grain I can see at the hem. The long-edge of the ruler will then  extend upwards along the grain. Worth a try, right?

It took me two pics to capture the result:

The grain line starts in the middle of the hem just like every pant pattern I’ve ever worked with.  It extends up but then angles across almost to the center back. I really want you to see that. I drew a circle on it

I’ve never seen a pattern with a grain line like this.  Even my jeans pattern have not been so angled.  Usually the grain goes straight up dividing the garment equally.   That’s definitely the method my drafting class presented.

I have seen something similar in an older book I am reading now:

Practical Instruction by Wm Lehman. I stumbled across this book while searching for alterations which might apply to my fitting issues.  Not sure where I got the original reference, but this is free and the Library of Congress has a number of free books along those lines. Click HERE to see a list.  Hope the link works.  There are several more I’d like to read.

I consider this book hard reading.  I can’t just read it and “get it”. The book was written/published in 1919.  Even though it is written in English, I can’t easily understand.  They spoke differently a century ago.  For example, Mr Lehman kept referring to “outlets”.  I have not seen that term used in sewing.  I know about electrical outlets. Water outlets. Sewage… but not garment outlets. Was it the neck? Holes for the legs? I think, still not 100% sure, but I think it is the seam allowances. Once I puzzle the terminology and phrasing through, I find he does a good job at explaining and illustrating things. But here again, the illustrations require my thought and sometimes further research on the Internet.  Finally realized when he refers to “full’ look at the solid, unbroken lines. But often I can’t find the  -.-.- lines or the +.+.+ or… well whatever symbol he uses in the text is not always the symbol in the illustration. I’ve opened and closed the book several times because hard reading is also slow reading.  Sometimes I have to read, think, research and then read again. When I finally understand, I find there is good, really good information contained in these pages. Information such as this page on how the grain should run in pants:

The description occurs on the page before and the page after which I think makes for a difficult read. You need to be looking at the illustration while reading the text. That illustration shows  the ‘wrong’ draft in full unbroken lines.  I’m most interested in the correct draft.  For easy viewing, I copied, traced, and I’m sharing just the correctly drafted back leg:

(No seam allowances are included in illustration.) ,

Look at the grain line.  It starts in the middle of the hem and extends upward but by the time it reaches the thigh, it is no longer evenly dividing the back leg. The torso portion has been tilted so the grainline terminates at the center back.  WOW so much like the my pic of the Halston grainline:

BTW, my friend confirmed she too had seen this grainline when she did her own copying.

Well there’s more, but this is enough sharing for one day.