3414 Jags Woven Yoga

3414 1A

When I’m having problems, I find that it really does help when I stop; put aside my project and turn my attention elsewhere. Yesterday, I put everything away neatly and went upstairs dinner and a Christmas movie. It’s that time of year. In the morning, I knew what to do.

I ripped out the crotch, again. Pulled one leg in the other and pinned the crotches together ready for recutting.  Then I pulled out the final tissue for 6461 to compare with 3414 1A. If you haven’t rad Morgan’s post at SG, I truly recommend you do so, especially if you are having problems fitting pants.  Morgan gives a list of things to check when your pants don’t fit. It’s not the normal or most familiar list.  At the end Morgan says, if none of the above work, probably the crotch shape does not match your own. (This is not an exact quote therefore not in quote marks.) So in the morning I said “Hmm. How can I check that easily?”  Hence, I pulled out 6461 and compared with 3414.

The 3414 1A front crotch extension was just slightly longer (and of course the inseam curve just a bit different).  That was what I wanted. I felt that  6461 could stand just a little more length, I was thinking 1/8″ on both front and back.

The back crotch was also a little longer but more importantly there is this distinctive scoop (colored with a black Sharpie for clarification).  The curve actually starts changing up by the hip line, swoops down at least 1/4″ deeper than 3414 1A, then bends back up and terminates at the 1/4″ back inseam. Huh!  Could that make enough difference?

So not entirely convinced I’d discovered the error and tired of unserging, I serge finished the crotch and the inseams so that can be easily ripped apart again.  I’ve got enough fabric left over to make a big, really big, like waist-to-knee gusset. If that’s what it takes. After trimming the back crotch to the new crotch shape, I stitched crotch and inseams with water-soluble thread. I also restitched the side seams, with WST,  after pinning them several places. I was hoping to remove the drag lines that suddenly appeared when I took the side seams in another inch.  I have the hems at 22″ now but I’d rather have 18-20″.  I like the 24″ hems for certain fabrics, certain occasions. Did I mention walking along the beach; wind blowing through my hair; tugging my pant legs?  Ah… back to SD in the winter…  I basted the inseams removing another 1/2″ at the inseam. Thereby reducing the hem circumference to 21″.  Little more than I prefer, but much improved over 24. Then of course it was “Take A Picture Alexa.”

Once again, my right-side pant-leg hangs pretty nice. I’d say beautifully but I’m sure someone will take exception and point out some bumps and drag lines below the knee. Sigh, the left side

Not so good. Nearly the same set of drag lines as the previous. I would hate to wear these pants looking like that.

OK so I didn’t get these pulled up evenly at the waist.  It’s one of the things I dislike about elastic waist pants. Any VPL is justified today and also I have a camisole tucked in. Fortunately I wear my tops long enough to cover this. Always. More concerned about the drag lines forming around the knee and not sure if that is fitting or fabric.  One of the reasons I prefer the 18-20″ hem is that it hangs better. Has less of a tendency to develop these kind of drag lines.  You know, it’s just too bad that Advertising has done so much air brushing that we expect to wear pants that have no  hint of a fabric fold, at all. Bottom line, I like the front.

Looking at the back

There is some improvement over the first photo.  I have not pressed well since before cutting the fabric. The WST likes to disappear when I hit it with steam so I put off pressing until I’m pretty sure I’ve made all my changes. It’s just that I’m wondering if that would be a benefit. But I have to admit, the back is still pulling towards the front, just not as much as when I started this party. I think it is definitely time for a different gusset and more length on the extensions. Oh, BTW, the last change to the back crotch created a barely peaked intersection.

So what became the final fit, I extended the crotches the old recommended way i.e. slice down and rotate out, spreading both front and back crotch points 1/2″.  I’ve added a total of 1″ length under there (stride) plus whatever little may have been added when the back crotch was scooped.  I cut a couple of big rectangles from my left overs and set aside. Then I sliced off the crotches of the pant-in-construction.  Lined up the rectangles with the newly trimmed crotches; and serged rectangles to crotch.  Pressed the seam just created and started an unexpectedly difficult aligning of the back crotch pieces and then front crotch pieces.  Oh my. They really didn’t want to cooperate. I finally got the fronts cut and started the same wrestling match on the back crotches.  One of my rectangles was not as wide as the other. So when I placed the tissue on top for cutting, I had a shorter side. A side not big enough for the entire crotch length.  At this point I’d already mentally decided I wasn’t applying another gusset to this pair of pants. I have more fabric, but the pant crotches have had it. I thought of cutting off the too short gusset but felt like the crotch just wouldn’t take the extra handling. So I trimmed off that gusset and added yet another piece  carefully aligned with the fabric stripe.  Now I cut a gusset of sufficient length.

Following on the thought that these pants weren’t going to make it through another gusset application, I serged back and front inseams together; serge finished crotch edges and then stitched the long inseams together. To my horror, the pants developed an even bigger point in the crotch that ever before. To smooth the curve out, because I can’t wear something like that, I stitch straight across the point.

I measured.  I removed an inch in length. I removed equal to what I have added during the 3 sewing/fitting sessions of 1A! Now totally assured that this pant is done and likely not to fit, I finished all the seams.  Removed the WST and stitched with thread at the original sewing line i.e. even though I have been trying to narrow the pant leg, I stitched it at the full 24″. I had not managed to make the left side seam look any nicer then it did to begin with. In my mind, no use in sewing it that way, let’s go back to where that seam was nice.  I also removed the 1/2″ very nice seams that I made 1/2″ in at the inseam.  I hemmed with hardly any care but did lightly starch and carefully press, not sparing the steam.  “Alexa, Take a pic.”

Both side seams look exceptionally nice, again.

Actually the front doesn’t look too bad.  The left side is rather good except for the fold that develops along the side of my leg.  Not sure if I should be concerned about that. After all, a drapey fabric will follow the body beneath.  My front waist is pulled again to the right side somehow.  I don’t understand this. I quartered the elastic; quartered the waistband. The elastic is stitched on the facing side and aligned with the quarter marks. It shouldn’t move around. Yet, it wants to pull left. I’m not exactly sure what to do but it may not matter if the back is as bad as expected.

… and then the back, totally surprised me. This is not terrible. It’s not even bad. I thought with that awful gusset and having actually cut off the length added, it would be uglier than sin. These things are WEARABLE.  Holy cow, I need to quit now and do something else.

 

 

 

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3414 Jags Woven Yoga

3414 V1A

Following my experience with Butterick 6461 in that deep rich corduroy, I couldn’t wait to check my previous patterns and see if extending the crotch extension length (the stride) would be the final key in making pants fit my  (clearing throat) maturing body. I’ve retrieved my first  tracing  of 3414 on which I made only the hip and inseam darts (Peggy’s standard for taking away the back leg wrinkles) and the side darts (I need because my sides are shorter in comparison to the crotch upright lengths).  My title “1A” is because in my mind this is the 2nd time I’ve done this dance but is totally different from the V2-4 tissue copies.

I chose a nice fabric although 100% polyester.  This is the type fabric that causes me to groan when people lump all polyesters into the ‘sticky, icky’ category.  Poly has been researched, investigated, and developed into tremendously better fabrics although I can still find an icky sticky (usually on the $1 table).  This one feels like a good wool flannel but it goes into the washer and dryer without any adverse effect. It is not entirely a dark brown and hard to read, because the 2nd thread in the herringbone weave is almost a golden  brown.

My objective was to increase the length of the crotch extensions. I started by adding a largish tissue rectangle behind the crotch then made a tick mark 1/2″ beyond and level with the crotch tip.  One of my challenges is all the excess ease over the back thigh which gets there due to fabric needed across my butt and in the crotch. Hoping to minimize the amount of fabric added, I fetched my curve and drew a new curve  joining the inseam as quickly as possible. Repeat for the front.

Love this pattern. 3 pieces. Front, back and waistband. I cut and finished the waistband first with all permanent stitching.  I cut the back and front and serged them together along the inseam. I serged finished the resulting large pieces but stitched the side seams and joined waistband to pant with water-soluble thread.  I turned up the hem and fused it, all except for 4″ over the side seam. First try on had me asking “What the >>>???”

Camel Toe. Butt parts. Wrinkles and drag lines. This pattern used to fit pretty nice. I was working only on narrowing the hem circumference when I tucked it away.   OK have to confess I did see an issue when I was sewing.  I like to join the inseams and then sew the crotch seam in one long go. I like the way that feels when I wear my pants. However the new crotch formed a distinct peak.  In order to smooth that uncomfortable thing, I stitched a smooth arc removing about3/8″ from the length of the extension. In effect, I added 1/2″ length but took some back. I should have been looking at the last version only slightly improved, not this.

I think it over and go back to the tissue where I added more Aisle Runner (can I start calling that AR?).  I roughly traced the existing crotch then drew a new one which is a full 1/2″ longer but 1/2″ lower on the back and 1/4″ lower on the front. Huh?  Well my sewing angel told me the best pants she’d ever had were altered by an expert by simply dropping the back crotch another 1/2″ and making kind of an L  crotch but a bit lower. Since I’m feeling a bit of downward tug at the back,  I decided a little more length to the upright was not a bad thing.

Back to the fabric again, lots of WST in this so no issue ripping that out of the some seams.  Ripping out the serged seams a bit of pain. But eventually I was able to open the inseam and crotch seams enough that I could get in there and add a gusset. In this case, I serged  an approximate 3×4″ rectangle to the crotches, serging off the excess and previous crotch extension.  Then I put one leg in the other, pinned the front to the front and back to the back crotch; put the corresponding pattern piece on top and cut the new crotch. Repeat for the other side. Much faster to tell and share photos that it was to do. I tell you both the fabric and the pattern wanted to fight me.  Probably because I wasn’t taking close as good enough. I made it as exact as I can.  Sadly, my crotch still peaks

more than I’d like.  A  I thought the previous alteration would work perfectly. I thought surely dropping the points would eliminate all issues. Fortunately, it’s only about an extra 1/8″ that needed to be stitched on the body side of the crotch seam.

At the same time, I basted the side seam from about level with the crotch to the hem gradually until it was 1-1/2″ deep instead of the 1/2″ I drafted.  I like the 24″ hem for summer pants. Love walking on the beach with my pant legs fluttering in the breeze.  Also love the air circulation up the legs when I’m sweating like a ***** when the heat hits triple digits and I need long pants to protect me from the blistering, sun burning, orb in the sky. Anyway, I basted a 22″ hem making the change on the side seam only.  I know the advice is to subtract evenly from both inseam and side seam. But when I looked at the first pics, I just did not want to take any more fabric from between my legs.

And the verdict is….

Well one  side seam is not as smooth as the other. I’d say possibly I stretched the fabric or the fabric shifted during stitching. Because I’m seeing a few curves not previously visible,  I also wonder if I started the seam too high. But the really important thing is the front and the back:

I think the front crotch is nearly perfect.  I’m see a little pubis bump far above my own?  Not sure what caused that. I’m also seeing diagonal drag lines from leg to side seam.  They were there before in previous versions and I’m not sure why.

But the kicker is the back crotch and leg:

Oddly, I’m seeing VPL which can’t be because I’m wearing boy short and they rest at the waist. I mean there is no panty elastic or anything else where that horizontal line is. Honestly, I don’t think  I know why that line is there. The crotch itself looks and feels good, but I still have upward diagonal lines that disappeared in 6461 when I added length to the crotch. I’ve added more length to 3414 1A than I did to 6461. What’s up with that?

 

I question what to do next. I’ve already made both the maximum  hip and inseam darts Peggy recommends and there is a point where they cease to have an effect.  Peggy herself has said that a dart can only affect so much effect.  Do I make another gusset???

 

………………………………………………………Please come back. I”ll have more to say tomorrow.

 

3414 Jags Woven Yoga, Silhouette Patterns - Peggy Sagers

3414 V3: Holiday Activities

I looked over the holiday dressing I’ve sewn for the last few days and decided I needed to finish a 6PAC for the travel we plan to do in  the next 6 weeks. Not that I couldn’t take things from my closet but I’ve made a nice start already with the shrugtops, fringed skirt set and Leopard pants, KWIM.  So my next garment is to be a 2nd pair of bottoms and since I will be in some nice places I opted to use a stretch herringbone I purchased about 2 years ago from Fabricmartfabrics.com  Shopping on-line is kind of a crap shoot. I never really know how the nice the fabric will be until I get it and sometimes until I actually sew and wear it.  This suiting was a surprise when it arrived and pleasure to work with.  It is beefy, but drapes i.e. for all its cushy goodness it does not stick out adding more pounds to my frame . A stretch-woven fabric, it has my favorite stretch factor 10%.  10% usually gives me a nice stable garment, recovers quickly but doesn’t stretch out of shape.

I’m still perfecting the Woven Yoga pattern (Silhouette Patters 3414).  I like it and wear the versions already made, but I think there is room for improvement and I would like a narrower hem.  I transferred my last alterations and trimmed some circumference from the hem so I’m starting with a 22″ hem which is what I used to consider the ‘absolute max’ for me.  I say ‘used to’ because the Autumn 6PAC contained Sally’s Pant #3200 with 25″ hems and it is lovely. Looks really nice on me. The fabric wins again (the fabric always wins).  I also tweaked the previous alterations a bit more.  I increased the 1/2″ hip line dart to 1″ and the inseam darts from 1/4″ to 1/2″ because the last 3414 still had diagonal lines across the back of the thighs.

But, there are things I already like about this pattern.  The waist band fits comfortably and is easy to slide up over my hips. I love the leg- length. OK that should have been a given since once of the first things I did was alter the first tracing to my preferred length.  I love how the pant falls smoothly on front, and sides. I’m not struggling with the lines between waist and hip; or the distribution of ease front and back. It is for the most part, already a very lovely pant on me.   It’s just I would like to change the hem circumference and remove the diagonal back lines which appeared just as I fit the other areas perfectly.

I  assembled the waistband read to be attached to the pant; and permanently stitched inseams and crotch. I turned up the hem using Steam-A-Seam to hold it in place during construction.  Loving this pant as it is, although I would mind if it were 20″ instead of 22″ at the hem, I decided this was the time to work on fitting the back thigh.

I marked my prominent seat, then the bottom of the butt cheek and my knee. I offset the front to back leg just between knee and B-cheek. The offset looks like an orange slice or half a fish-eye dart. Didn’t know how much I wanted to remove, so I started with 3/4″ on the LEFT leg only

Good so increase from 3/4″ to 1″

Decided that my fisheye was too low, so I raised it 2″ which left a dimple just at my knee.

Sorry, forgot to lift my blouse for the pic so you can’t see the whole leg. I’m fine with the progress, except the side view didn’t thrill me

After that pic, I made the fish eye longer at both ends. That means I started it about even with my greatest seat prominence, kept the depth at the same place but extended the dart 2″ below the knee. Good. Repeat for the right leg, also good. No pics of the in progress because at this point, I said, “Done!” Really it was as good as I want. I do not mind a little dimple at the knee. I rather expect a close-fitting pant to have out-right horizontal pull lines right at the knee. So I’m thinking I’m all done and finished the pant completely, including serging the back side seam so it was an even 1/2″. I was hoping that would allow the side seam to relax and loosen any remaining  pull lines on the side seam.

Did not t transfer the fish-eye dart  It’s really big and looks weird.

I added a dashed, green line to help show how deep the change is and how long.  When I transfer to the tissue, I want it to be a smooth curve. But I’m unsure. Should I transfer the entire dart to the side seam? Split between side seam and inseam?  I don’t want to place it in the center of the pattern piece because that will warp the tissue.  Also, when the hip line dart was added the hip curve changed. Adding the inseam dart changed the hip curve even more. Narrow the leg and the curve is emphasized.  .  Looking at it now and comparing with the front, I realize how much additional curve was introduced

I’m especially concerned because my body on the side is pretty straight. I’m wondering if I should start by smoothing out the curve, making it less convex and more straight up and down and then pin out the dart on both back inseam and side seam. ” Back”  because the front is fine. It is the back under my bum and above my knee that need refining. Actually, I’m afraid if I start twiddling with the front of those seams I will ruin the front’s perfect fit. My fish eye dart starts at my hips greatest prominence which is several inches above the crotch point/inseam.  I needed to extend it that far to make the fisheye less convex, yet I worry about changing the curve up there by my prominence where  I need the circumference.

Then I wonder about other pants patterns.  Will 3200 which fit so nicely just weeks ago, start developing the under butt lines when I start slimming the leg?  Will I need a similar fisheye dart on 5268?  Would the fish eye dart be the solution on past patterns that I’ve given up on (i.e. the Eleanors, PP113, etc). I just don’t know.

And why didn’t I do this fitting before? Really it was 3 quick lines of basting! Oh wait, I remember. I thought excess circumference would show up as vertical lines and the diagonal lines meant something else.  I thought I wanted to correct the something else before tweaking the circumference.

Anyway finished the pant took final pics. Would you believe:

The da^^^ ^^ drag lines are back!

 

3414 Jags Woven Yoga, Silhouette Patterns - Peggy Sagers

SP 3414, V2, Day 2

So I gave it some thought over night.  I decided to put it back on and make sure the pant was sitting where it was supposed to, ie not twisted in the back. This was more of a prayer than actual thought I would fix the drag lines.  Even doing this bothered me because I’m not sure every time I wear this pair of pants that I’m going to carefully position the center back seam. I probably won’t remember to do it.

Apologies, I seemed to be a step too close to Alexa in this pics and we can’t see all the way to the hem.

As you can see, it was a waste of effort, but sometimes you just have to try. So starts a series of fitting tweaks.  I scooped the crotch 1/2″.  Sooner or later I come to this solution. Even though I didn’t need it with 3200, I thought may as well give it a try.  My crotch is more of an L shape than the smoother curve SP drafted.

…and it wasn’t the answer I was looking for. No idea what to do next, so I started working on the leg circumference. I marked the mid knee, bottom of my butt cheek and my seat prominence with chalk. I transferred those measurements (From Hem  Knee 14.5″; Cheek 25.25″ and Seat 31″).  I marked 1″ in at the hem of the side seam; 1/2″ at the knee.  using the curve, I drew a line from check to knee; using the straight ruler from knee to hem.  Both sides and stitched.  Took a pic. Next I measured in 1/2″ at the hem and drew a line from knee to hem on the inseam; Stitched and took a pic. This takes my hem circumference from 25″ to 22.  Still too large for my tastes but considerably improved and no didn’t help with the back X wrinkle either..

Then I experienced a BF and hiked my pants up at CB waist.

Crapola, the real answer may be that the 1/2″ added didn’t help at all. But I’ve already scooped out the crotch. No going back which is why I usually wait until the very last to do a scoop.  I can offset it a bit (WB to CB) and maybe that will help. But you know what, if living color

You can’t see a dang thing.  I haven’t changed my pattern.  I’m going to copy my pattern and trim away the 3″ I’ve altered on the leg circumference and fold out the hip line dart and 1/2″. Then try again, next time I make pants.

 

3414 Jags Woven Yoga, Silhouette Patterns - Peggy Sagers

3414 V2

Sp093 stitched up so quickly, I was still test driving the first version of Jag’s Woven Yoga’s when I started the 2nd.  I added 1/2″ to the top of the back crotch and 1/4″ to the back side seam. The crotch just isn’t quite right and I’m not sure what I want to do about it.  There is also too much easy over the back thigh. If I add to the crotch extension, I will have even more ease back there. So I’m thinking scoop however that can affect how the tight the pant feels.  I’m hoping it will only take an easy tweak and then I can start reducing the leg circumference. While I don’t hate the 25″ circumference, it is not my fav.  To use this pattern over and over, I will want that circumference reduced to at least 20″.

My fabulous 100% polyester fabric is  purchased from Fabricmartfabrics.com. I love this fabric in pants and purchase it in every colorway.  It is at once weighty and drapey but not so weighty. It’s not the fabric I’d wear in a blizzard.  I’ve got snow pants for that. But it can be worn through the winter with tights and through all but the hottest of summer days.  Best of all, it is wash and drip dry.

Because I’d done the majority of the fitting previously, today I made two quick adjustments to the pattern and cut fabric.  I started sewing and had the first fitting pics in 1.5 hours. I love how the first are so dark you’d think they were perfect and ready to wear.

The waistband is completely finished and has the tag-in-the-back. Inseams are serged and the faux front fly is nailed into place.  All else was serge finished. The side seams are stitched and the hems turned up. Hems are kept them in place with steam-a-seam. The waistband  is stitched with water-soluble thread. So there are some easy areas to get into for the needed fixes.

Once again this is a dark fabric. It is a dark chocolate-brown for the pics lightened 80%. I’d say the sides are good.

I’m a little less enthusiastic about the front. Like the previous fabric, this one had fabric folds that had to be vigorously steamed to be released. I’d say I’m looking at that here but I also wonder about those vertical lines.  Did I pull up too vigorously? Or is something else awry? If that’s the only issue, (and so far it is), I always wear my tops out and will completely cover the problem.

and that back makes me groan.  I know it’s hard for you too see. It was hard for me. I lightened and zoomed in. OK the waist is going to have some vertical lines of fabric. What happens when the waist is big enough to slid up over your hips without stretch, is lots of excess  gathered with the elastic . From enlarging the pic, I can tell that I twisted the pant some when putting it on and that is causing some pulls as well. The 1/2″ added at the top of the back crotch was a good idea; and I can tell you that the X’s are not as prominent as the first pair, but they haven’t cleared up completely either.  I was hoping to work on leg circumference, but I think I need to take a step back to look at those diagonals.

Sigh for a pant that looked almost perfect this is most disappointing. The stretch is about the same, less than 10%. The fiber is the same. Just the texture and exact weight are different. The pattern has had the excess ease, which was mostly added  fitting insurance, all removed. And I’ve trimmed seam allowances to my favorite. Essentially, this was sewn together on the size 4 stitching lines. I need to think about it…

 

3414 Jags Woven Yoga, Silhouette Patterns - Peggy Sagers

3414: Finishing

So the plan was 3 changes (hemming, back crotch extension, offsetting WB) but when I got back downstairs (the next day), I did only 2.

As planned, I turned the hem up 2″ (originally it was 1.25″) .  But I skipped changes to the crotch and went straight to the sides and waistband. After I’d had time to think, I wondered if these:

weren’t just a continuation of these

Put together

it looks like a waterfall except it’s on my pants instead of a cardigan. So the 2nd alteration I made was to offset the WB to the pant at the side seam 1″ which in effect lifts the side. Then take pics for Fit 02. And compare them with the pics from Fit01.

Want to know my biggest take away? It was “Oh I do need to work on circumference!”  It was not that I skipped Peggy’s fitting steps. I did settle the crotch in place, check for length (hence the hem needing shortening); and I did look at circumference but I thought only that it was generous. I didn’t think I needed to adjust the circumference which had made me happy because despite all the fit insurance added,  I was stitching a  default Size 4.

Shortening the side length by 1″ (and hemming) was really a good idea. Most of the upper diagonals disappeared. And now I can see that yes the waistband, front and back crotch really are sitting as nicely as they feel.  With Fit03 I started a series of small tweaks to see what worked best on me. I took pics but didn’t share. My changes were small, the sewing quick and because of Alexa Look, I  could see immediately what I needed to do next. (Before the Look, I had to run upstairs, up load pics and edit to see the results of my fitting changes.)  I finished  the waistband changing out  the 2″ elastic for 1.5″; serged the raw edges together and did some little things to step up my garment just a little,

I edge stitched at the top of the waist band

and added a Tag In the Back

On Fit 03, I stitched the side seams 3/8″ deeper and lifted the side another 1/2″ (total 1.5: offset at the side seams). Fit 04 I stitched the inseams 1/4″ deeper. On Fit 05, I let out the inseams i.e. returned them to the Size 4  drafted stitching line. While the crotch looked good, it didn’t feel good and I had really started seeing the start of X wrinkles.  The X wrinkles were hinted at before, but now they were clear and there was a hint of pubis in front, so I did more than just let out the inseam, I let it out another 1/8″. Then I finished the pants. Couldn’t think of anything else that would improve the fit; and while the hem circumference finished at 25″ which is much more than I like,  it isn’t a fit issue and I didn’t want to work on it now. I didn’t want to change the basic draft more the needed to get a nice fit.

The sides and front look really wonderful. No complaints at all.  While I prefer a 18-20″ hem circumference, this looks good. I”m pleased, in fact terribly pleased that it didn’t take that much effort to fit.

 

I still have issues on the back, which I’m not sure if part of these are because of my final stitching.  When I thought my fitting was done, I serged off the excess; sprayed the WST with water and removed any basting. It is possible I didn’t serge in the right places.  But it is more likely that having removed all the excess seam allowances, the true fit is coming through

Couple of things happening here.  I still need to add a smidge of length at the CB waist. Also, I’m  pulling up on the sides which means the WB was not resting in a spot comfortable to me. This is a personal problem. I just am unconsciously uncomfortable with pants that sit below the waist. I pull up on the sides without noticing my behavior but I can see it in the pics.

There is too much ease over the back thigh. Not the butt. The butt and the tummy have  just enough ease. (What appears to be a horizontal pull line is a fabric fold I attempted to press 4 different times.  There were 5 of these folds. The others were removed by the pressings, this one will need a trip through the laundry).  So enough butt, ease, too much at the thigh but <sigh><big sigh>  the hint of the X wrinkles fanning out from the knee is apparent. Interestingly, changing position, changes the wrinkles position and severity:

And of course not lightened, which I do specifically so we can see these wrinkles, they’re hardly noticeable

During finishing I carefully measured and transferred changes to the pattern. I removed the excess tissue from side seams, inseams and the hem. 2″ makes a nice hem but I like the fabric conserving 1.25″ . To secure the elastic I stitched across the waistband in line with side seams.  It resembles a Stitch in the Ditch which is practically invisible. In fact the eye has a tendency to follow the line of the side seam and not realize there is visible stitching

1.75″ is the final amount I lifted the sides.  For the garment, I trimmed a wedge at the top of the pant leg

On the tissue I made a 7/8″ deep dart about 3″ below the waist

and then trued the side seam (cut off that little nubbin you see in the pic.)  I like that the dart changes the side length without change the waist shaping.

All in all, I’m really happy with the fitting journey.  No pant is going to fit me out of the envelope. Heck, some of the tights I’ve purchased didn’t fit. You’d think something that is practically sprayed on wouldn’t have a fit issue.  Net Pattern changes:

  • Fitting
    • Shorten back and front leg 2.75″
    • Add 1/2″ wedge to CF at waist
    • 1″ height added across front and back at waist
    • 1/2″ Hip line dart
    • 1/4″ Top of Inseam Dart
    • Side 7/8″ dart 3″ below waist
  • Sewing Preferences
    • Extend front waist and side seam to eliminate pocket
    • Inseams trimmed to 1/4″
    • Side seams trimmed to 1/2″

Future Changes:

Add 1/4″ top of CB crotch

Add 1/4″ to inseam or scoop.  I’ve got too much ease over the thigh now. Scooping won’t add any more, extending the crotch does.

Narrow the leg aka reduce leg circumference.

 

 

 

 

3414 Jags Woven Yoga, Silhouette Patterns - Peggy Sagers

3414: Cutting and Fitting

I stitched most of  the seams at the default stitching line. For example  I added 1″ to the inseams and I stitched the inseams at 1-3/8″. If you recall, I added 1.5″ to the back side seam (instead of the 1″ added everywhere else.)  But I want to point out that I added more than I took away because I’m expecting a hem circumference at 22″ or there abouts because that’s what the back of the envelope says.  My hem circumference is 26 “.  Even if I subtract the 1/2″ extra I added, the hem is 3.5″ bigger than the pattern advertises. This is truly annoying to be.  I expect this measurement to be in the ball park.  Think what it would have done to me had I been expecting the hip circumference of 48.5 but experience 52″?  I’d be pissed. Feel the same way about the hem. YMMV of course, but I am pissed. Well moving on

I stitched the waist to waistband at 1/4″ The pattern specifies 2″ elastic. Just prior to starting 3414,  I happened to be in a store and found 2″ elastic.  Normally I use whatever I have on hand. But I have the failed yoga pant memory haunting me. I wanted to do as much as possible just as Peggy suggested.  I wanted to give the pattern to be a success with me sewing it.  To my surprise the waistband folded in half does not allow for a 3/8″ seam allowance with  2″ wide elastic.  Which may not be that big of a deal because I really don’t like this 2” wide elastic either.

This pattern though exemplifies the phrase “just ran it up on the sewing machine.”  Yeah as a young girl I’d hear my aunts and mother speak in such terms.  What they really meant was they’d stay up late that night and sew like a demon.  But those were times when people took pride in understating their effort and were happier albeit still modest that you should praise the result, the accomplishment rather than the effort. Still the actual  sewing experience of 3414 made me think of that phrase.  Note, I did not of typical pre-work. None of the edges are serge finished, or even serged for that matter. The hem was folded up and light pressed before being clipped together for pics. Rather than “no effort was spared” it was like ‘every effort was avoided’.  Which is part of why the first fitting was such a pleasant surprise.

Of course there are some issues, some more interesting that others.

First I added 1″ at the top  waist. Well if I want my yoga pant to sit at the waist I’m fine. If I want it to sit below the waist, I’ve got to make a change.

The back is such a nice surprise, I want to talk about it next:

I do think I have enough ease.  The waist dips slightly at the CB. I’ll need to make a change one way or the other.  I need to length the CB if I want the WB  to sit where it is otherwise, I”m need to remove the inch of height I added to the tissue. I’ve got the back twisted in the photo and the light is striking the curve of my hip, but no VPL.  That’s really important to me.  The leg circumference is much more than I desire and the length is still a little more than I like for every day.  For now, I want to hem the pant another 3/4″ inch higher but ignore the circumference  I’m not sure if the leg is twisting or if I still have a crotch issue.  I did note that the crotch extension measured between 1 and 2.5″ shorter than the beloved #3200.  For now I will offset the front and back inseam thereby adding 1″ to the back extension. Unfortunately, it also added a little ease to the upper thigh.

The more I look at the first fitting pics, the better I like the way the waistband is sitting. I do think the WB is supposed to reside below the waist but … dang it!  They’re my pants.  My only criticism while looking at the front view, is the twisting inner leg.  For now, I work on the inseam as described for the back.

Side seams show an interesting development

Now I carefully walked the side seams. I added my own notches (Peggy has only the pocket pieces notched).  I transferred my marking after cutting the fabric and I matched my notches for sewing. Yet the front, both fronts appear to be rouching along the side seam  and they are drooping:

So 3 changes on Fit 01

Increase hem depth 3/4″ (total 2″); Offset back/front crotch at inseam 1/2″; offset WB to pant increase back crotch length  1/2″, decrease side seam 1/2″ leave CF unchanged.

3414 Jags Woven Yoga, Silhouette Patterns - Peggy Sagers

3414 Jags Woven Yoga

I checked the back of the envelope for recommended fabric and sizing. Both important considerations IMO.

Fabric because some of the stash fabrics I wanted to use for yoga pants aren’t specifically recommended. With those, I’m taking a chance the pattern cutter (Peggy Sagers) doesn’t recommend. But I do have several fabrics which should work beautifully. Unfortunately, none of them are in the muslins stack.  I think the aisle runner fabric I’ve recently used for muslins would not give me an accurate idea of fit. Do I take a chance or find something better suited for the pattern?

Sizing became a big glitch. # 3200, Peggy’s basic pant pattern and the basis (she says) of all her woven pants has 4-18 and  14w-24w sizing scale. 3414 is sized  1-4 and 5w-8w.  Is there an intersecting/translating point?  I looked at finished hip measurement. On #3200 I used size 24w because it had a finished 49″ hip. In my notes, I commented that I could have gone down a size.  I perused the 3414 sizing and discovered size 4 had a finished hip of 48.5. Hmm, could be a winner.  Next I compared the pant back of 3414 size 4 with 3200 size 24w.  I compared original tissues (not my fitted pattern which BTW I love my 3200 as a trouser pattern.)  I am a bit uneasy. No matter what size I choose with 3414, the back crotch extension will be between 1.5 and 3″ shorter than 3200.  Definitely I was wrong to assume that 3414 would be 3200 with yoga-pant style features.  Another sticking point for me is the crotch upright which is shorter by an inch (comparing 3414 to 3200).  But this is a yoga pant which I believe sits slightly below the waist while 3200, the trouser, sits at the waist. Even if that’s not the defining point, it is easy to add 1″ at the tissue stage.  In choosing Size 4, #3414 the final tipping point was seeing that the 4’s waist appeared to slant upward from side to CB/CF.  One of the alterations I do and have done for years, is if the crotch length is correct, the sides are too tall and must be shortened via a dart on the side in the tissue or lopping off the side waist of the fabric.

I decided to waste one, pretty-good, piece of fabric on the size 4 ( with some additional alterations to be discussed below).    I chose a nicely draping fabric from the green stack. It’s  a stack that gets added to occasionally but never used. Interestingly enough, although I don’t reach first for green fabric after they are made I keep them in regular rotation until they wear out or are otherwise ugly from wear.  Although the fabric is dark,  it is not a black-green.  I think I will be able to lighten to pics enough to see details.  I’ve lost the tag that describes the fiber content. I am concerned that it has slight stretch, 10% or a little less. Generally I like 10% stretch especially in blouse fabrics because the blouse will read as a crisp woven fabric but have enough give to be comfortable during wear.  I am concerned however that using and fitting for 10% stretch now could bite me in the future when I use a fabric with no stretch at all.

Having made my fabric and size selections, I traced the size 4 and began considering tissue alterations.  Well actually the first thing I considered was the dang front pocket. No matter how I lined it up,

it didn’t entirely align with the pant front pattern.  Please believe me, I rotated that pocket in tiny increments several times!!!

I’ve seen this misalignment several times from different companies.  Is this deliberate? I mean it’s not like a 1/16″ that I’d dismiss as stray pencil.  By the time I lined up the pocket as best possible and smoothed out the line with my hip curve, I added 3/8″ at the side seam.

Over a short distances (less than 3″) but still I changed the shape of the side seam, which BTW means that the pocket pieces won’t fit my front pattern piece.  I’ll have to draft my own pocket and facing, which is not a biggie.  I just wonder if this is misalignment  something the better drafters do.  I’ve had some exposure to drafting pants and they have never shown what I’m seeing.   Anyway first alteration was;

Extend the front waist and side seam to eliminate the pocket.

I followed that by measuring the inseam and folding out 2″ length. I’m short. Got to shorten the legs or they’ll drag the ground.

Still considering how much to do to the tissue before the test garment, I went upstairs for dinner. After dinner I trotted back down to add a 1/2″ wedge at center front.  This is sort of like my 5/8″ RBA.  If I don’t add it now, I will add it after I’ve ruined the first test garment. Always. I think it is time to accept that I have not only a rounded-back but a rounded tummy and both need adjustments at the tissue stage.

I gave it further tissue alterations more thought. Lots more. Like over night more. In the morning I decided to add the 1/2″ hip line and upper inseam darts. I thought and thought and thought. The need for these darts can vary depending upon fabric, pattern, drafter. But the only pant pattern to which I haven’t added them are the jeans which still don’t fit.   The question haunting me was should I take these alterations now or wait for the test garment to prove they are needed?  It’s a catch-22.  If I take it now and it isn’t needed I’ve got a wadder.  If I don’t make the alterations and they are needed, there is a chance I can make the change to the tissue and recut the same fabric.  There’s still the chance that  due to the angle changes resulting for these alterations, I won’t be able to  recut the fabric. I’m assuming (but acknowledging I could be very wrong; I’m assuming  Peggy added the back  pant dart.  She did it on 3200. I had to make the hip line and inseam correction to 3200.  I’m assuming it’s the same  for 3414;  and those were the next tissue alterations made.

Just for fitting insurance, I added an even 1″ to the top of pant front and back.  I’m not sure I need it. As I said above, it is a yoga pant which generally is expected to sit just below the waist whereas the pant I am comparing with sits at my waist. That alone could be cause of the crotch length difference. I added the 1″ height/length, but plan to baste on the original stitching line. I can use the extra 1″ if I need it or just trim it away if I don’t.

I increased the inseam and front side seam-allowances 1″  That should give me an opportunity to correct the crotch extension if it really does need to be longer and gives me a little front fitting room if it turns out that the 48.5″ finished hip really isn’t enough circumference.

I added 1.5″ to the back side seam allowance (back inseam increased 1″ as was the front).  I’m always adding extra to the back. Always. Oft times, I remove 1″ ease from the front and at the same time add 1″ ease to the back. I don’t really understand this.  It seems to me that if I don’t have enough ease in back, it should pull the side seam into a serpentine shape. But I tell you, I look at my pics and see that the back is too tight, the side seam straight and the front is too loose; just flapping around. Anyway, since I’m using real fabric and not muslin or aisle runner I want to make allowances.  I’d really like to end up with a wearable.

I increased the length of the waistband 2″. That makes it equal to my hip measurement. I”m not putting a zipper in these so the waistband has to be pulled up and over. ergo waistband must be equal to hip girth. This can look and feel bulky so I may change the pattern later on to incorporate a zipper and at that time decrease the length of the waistband. For now, despite all the alterations I’ve just detailed, I like to stick close to what the pattern cutter, Peggy Sagers, designed.

 

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Tissue Alterations Before Cutting Fabric

  • Extend front waist and side seam to eliminate pocket
  • Shorten back and front leg 2″
  • Add 1/2″ wedge to CF at waist
  • 1″ height added across front and back at hem
  • 1/2″ Hip line dart
  • 1/4″ Top of Inseam Dart
  • Inseams (both) increase 1″
  • Side seams
    • Back +1.5″
    • Front+1″
  • Waistband +2″

 

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*”The fabric always wins”  is attributed to Peggy Sages in several of her broadcasts and her DVD of same name.