You have to understand. In the last 3 days, I have measured my body twice and my crotch 5 times. I plotted dots and constructed a tissue with basic alterations 5 times. I have made, photographed, evaluated and shared 2 muslins. You have to understand, I’ve put some effort into this pants fitting system.
Today, I began by comparing the draft with the crotch calculated with the half-and-half (HAH) method TO the draft created with the COM (crotchOmeter) method. I know that the crotch extensions on the HAH draft are wrong. The front is too long creating that poufy look in front, while the back is too short and therefore is pulling the entire inseam up and into my butt. I was thinking that by using the COM method the crotches will be proportionately altered. To my surprise, the back crotch is taller, the front shorter and the extensions are exactly the same. From my pictures (see previous post) you should be able to tell that I do not need more or less length or rise as it is often called. My pants are not pulling down at either the center front or center back at the waistline. All the misfitting is down there in the U of the crotch.
I look further. The COM back side seam is now 4″ taller than the front side seam. As if trying to balance 2 inches wasn’t bad enough. The HAH draft is already too tall at the side seam and now I’ve added another inch to lop off??
Just for giggles and grins, I pull out the JSM draft to compare. The back of the SFD is higher both at the side seam and crotch and the extension is 3/4″ shorter. The leg of the SFD is wider while the hip is narrower. On the front the SFD crotch extension is longer and the entire pant is wider by at least 1/2″. Even more at the hem.
I stand there dumb founded. I think this exercise is going to develop something very similar to the commercial draft I purchased and have been using for at least 3 years. The biggest exception being the SFD draft will have wider legs! Yes, because before I pulled out the JSM draft I was thinking I needed to work with the HAH draft instead of the COM draft because what I needed were changes to the crotch extensions and lowering of the side seams. The COM draft does exactly the opposite of what I need. Looking at the JSM draft, I realized that what I planned to do with the HAH draft would recreate the JSM draft. Big Whoop. I’ve spent hours and hours recreating the same draft I’ve been using for 3 years.
Have I learned anything that would make this futile exercise worth while?
When drafting and fitting the SFD Pants, I saw some interesting things.
- My waist, high hip and full hip dots could not be aligned on the standard curve. From Glenda’s instructions I’d say this is common. But the point to me is that I am not proportioned according to the standard.
- This is important information. Knowing that my shoulder was 1″ shorter than the standard, led to alteration which corrected half of my fitting issues with tops.
- But I”m not sure how this relates to commercial patterns and the alteration I need to make to get them to fit.
- On muslin #1, the knock knee adjustment significantly changed the curve from crotch tip to hem.
- I wonder if it is the knock knees for which I need to adjust or if it is the curve of the inner leg.
- You see as we gain weight, they draft patterns for us by adding length and width at key points. On the inseam, you see a longer leg . The crotch is lengthened, but the curve is also made wider and shallower.
- Look at these upside down letters:
- When designers add to the crotch point, it creates a leg curve more like the U on the left. But when I look in the mirror, I’m more like the V on the right. I don’t stand with my legs that far apart, but my legs do angle upwards to a narrow cross piece not a wide piece. The normal alteration, on the left, seems to assume that as you gain weight your legs are also getting further apart at the crotch. Maybe you do. I don’t.
- When I made the knock knee alteration, the inseam curve returned to a shape more like the upside down V and the distance between the legs became more like my own proportions.
I’m not entirely sure how to interpret these observations. But they are the kind of information I was hoping to learn i.e. where do I differ from the standards. I think that’s the key to getting most patterns to fit the way the designer envisioned. I think the key to altering commercial patterns to fit is knowing the standard and knowing where/how much I deviate.
My conclusion is, I’m done creating a SFD Blueprint. I’m not going to repeat this for tops. I already know how to easily alter commercail top patterns to fit me. The SFD pants kit has added nothing but questions to my repertoire. I don’t want to repeat my SFD experience with tops. But then no system works for everyone. PERIOD. I had high hopes, but I must be too difficult to fit to use a one-size-fits-all system.