PP113

Spring Pants

I’ve had these pants finished about a week ago.

You’re right. You really can’t see anything from the photos.  I used Pamela’s Patterns 113 and a Fine Twill purchased from fabricmartfabrics.com

It’s a 100% polyester that I adore for use in dress pants. It launders well. If needed, presses easily. Comfortable to wear, but yes that’s partly because the pattern fits.  I made this pair after taking all the summer pants out of storage and discovering I’m missing  navy,  dress pants.  This is like checking a box. Done. Nice. Not too special. Straight waistband with center front zipper; 8 darts because I need 8 darts. 4 in front and 4 in back.  Good to go.

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Closures, PP113

Pants with Pocket Closure

Winter is slowly taking over. Day by day. Temperature drop by temperature drop.  I am testing out my winter wardrobe by wearing a new set every day. OK not necessarily new to me garments, but garments that I carefully cleaned, pressed and hung in my closet as ‘ready’ for winter. It took no time at all to start noticing I didn’t have enough brown pants.  Most of what I have is blue. I need to rectify that and chose to make a nice pair of trousers in brown twill suiting.

This is a 100% polyester fabric and proves my point that polyester can be high quality.  This has wonderful weight and drape.  Pressing did require a few extra seconds to allow the heat and steam to persuade seams to lie flat and pressed either open or to one side.  I opted to use the last well fitted version of the pattern and for something different moved the closure from zipper to open pocket.  This is easy to do and great to use when you don’t have a matching zipper or are in a hurry.  It is not apparent to the viewer that there even is a closure:

The closure is hidden in the pocket and created by leaving the pocket bag partially unstitched

Essentially you are making inseam pockets.  4 pocket bags are cut.  The right side is stitched together like making an inseam pocket. The right side is a little trickier. The inside ‘seam’ is finished before attaching the bags to the front and back side seams.  The side seam is stitched from hem, up to about 2″ into the pocket. Turn the work so you can stitch back down that 2″ and around the bottom of the pocket bag and up the side leaving 6″ open.  The waistband needs to be extended by the width of the top of the pocket bag.  The front pocket is folded in and secured to the front pant. The back pocket is left free. The waistband is applied along this long waistband which becomes the correct length after the button, snap or hooks are sewn into place.  Clear as mud?  Sorry. This is one that is easier to do than describe and step by steps would be boringly long.

I see the pic at the top of the page, as being me in the bank line.  I lightened that pic for a better view:

To me, this is totally acceptable. I made trousers. They have a 20″ hem. They are supposed to be loose; easy wearing, comfortable.  What’s more, because pp113 is a TNT pattern and the closure was so easy, these pants took only 4 hours to make from start to finish which included 1 fitting session.  However when I lifted my shirt to take photos of the waist, I shifted my weight and twisted the pants because this :

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would suggest that I need to work on the pattern some more.  I don’t think so. I think I twisted my body see how my left leg looks about 2/3’s the size of my right leg. I think I’m standing funny and the bank line pictures are right.

Anyway, 1 pair of brown pants in the closet and ready to be worn.

 

PP113

PP113-Embroidered

I used my last modified copy of Pamela’s Pattern #113. The one where I changed the inseam to be straight. Also, I tried slimming the hem.  Previously, I’ve not been able to slim the leg by much. Somehow slimming the leg causes the X-wrinkles in back. Since these wrinkles are mostly between butt and knee, I made darts in the leg between knee and ankle.  Well, 2″ below the knee to the ankle.  I removed a lot of flare turning this 20″ hem into a 17″.  I used the Euro Waistband with a zip front just to be doing something different. But I think fabric once again played the biggest role.  Suddenly my 1/2″ side seams reduced the ease.

and the Xwrinkles started showing:

I did let out the side seams as far as possible which removed the VPL. However the Xwrinkles didn't go away.  This fabric was an issue for another reason: it exploded. Well that's what I thought when I couldn't match the side and inseams. Once cut those bias edges grew in size.  I spent time at the ironing board shrinking down to the cut length. I thought about slapping the pattern back on top and recutting, but the pattern wouldn't fit. 

.I love these pants because for the first time, I was able to embroider the legs

I’ve often wanted to add embroidery at the hem. But you must be sure the pants will fit because the side seam is sewn first. Fortunately, I was able to open the side seam above the embroidery to gain the additional ease I needed. The embroidery isn’t really clear in the picture, so I exported a copy from Embird:

 

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I started with the sample from Bella’s Bridal Collection at Secretsof.com.  It’s all a matter of splitting, mirroring and rotating to create the design wanted.

 

PP113

PP113 + TJ906 Inseam

So for my guinea pig muslin fabric I choose a brown seersucker that has recently arrived.  Technology has gotten really good. Fabric color on the net seems to nearly always match the color of the fabric which arrives at my home.  The most notable differences are when I see on-line what I want to see rather than what is really there.  This fabric is that type situation.  I wanted a brown seersucker for summer pants and I planned to use PP113.  This fabric has a much darker tone than I remember/envisioned.  I know cause I looked it up on-line just to check.  But it’s tone now is a PLUS because I easily look at the stash and think “this one”.  Seersucker will provide a little stretch.  It’s the nature of the fabric.  I rarely adapt my pattern for that stretch and seldom fit-it-out either.

I serged side and inseams as well as the crotch. Turned up the hems and top stitched them too.  Either this pant is going to be wearable or I’m going to be happy to discard it. I did allow for the possible need to adjust the crotch depth  when I turned the waist band/facing  down and stitched it with water-soluble thread (for easy removal).  I threaded elastic through basted waistband but pinned it together. I have several different elastics in my stash. Each has their own best length.

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The front is pretty good.  Not surprising, I need to pull the waistband up at the sides.  But there is no suggestion of camel toe, underwear or any of the other gotcha’s I look for.

The side view reinforced the need to lift the front at the waist.  But this really isn’t a bad side view. A little tweaking. Isn’t that what we expect to do at fitting?

So the back is very interesting to me.  It’s not the ugly X wrinkles of the  Ascona; and those aren’t exactly X wrinkles.  It’s more like the back is buckling between butt and knee. Like it really is too long as previously suggested by my readers.  Interestingly, I see a slight bit of that in my TJ906 jeans.  So far I’ve assumed the culprit to be a need to increase the curve right under the rear.  Now I’m thinking it would be a good idea to just make that area shorter.

An interesting note I want to make, is that I have not needed to make the next alterations on PP113 until I straightened the curve of the back inseam. Did altering the inseam curve cause or reveal these issues?

First thing I did was lift the side to get rid of the front and side wrinkles under the WB.  I wanted to raise it a full inch but the fabric would not turn smoothly. That’s because of the uneven amount that’s being turned i.e. 1.25″ CF and CB 2.25″ side seams. Some changes have to be done at the tissue phase and this appears to be one.   I ended up folding the waist down  2″ at the side seams  (instead of the planned 1.25″ for the facing) and smoothing it out best as possible along the fold.

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While there is still more room for improvement and the back isn’t sitting smoothly (fire my stylist), I was satisfied with most of the wrinkles being removed and finished the waistband.

Then I started trying to slim the leg. I was not surprised that the finished circumference is 22″. I used 1/4″ side seams instead of my usual 5/8″ side seams which allow for  tweak according to the fabric. By using the 1/4″ SS, I’ve added 1.5″ to the hem circumference.  Wanting to see if I could trim the leg and some of the visible ease, I basted using water-soluble thread at 5/8″. Took pictures, ripped , basted at 3/8″. Took a second set of pictures. Absolutely not possible to increase the back  side-seam allowance even to 3/8″. Any change and my flanks show (as well as VPL and some girlie parts).

SS 5/8″ —- 3/8″

 

However the fronts fared much better and I could take a little out.  Seems to me this is what I did with the Ascona as well.  Sometimes I wonder if I shouldn’t trace one size smaller front and one size larger back. ie. pattern says I’m L trace S front and XL back.  Too late now, but for the next iteration, I will make a 1/8″ vertical fold and remove that much ease from the front and slash and spread the back to add 1/4″ ease. It’s a net zero change but puts ease where I need it and takes it away where I don’t.

With my attempt at slimming from waist to hem at the side seams failed, I started trying to slim the just the lower leg and hem. I stitch  at the side seam starting under the hip (30″) all the way to the hem increasing the SA from 1/4″ to 5/8″ right at the knee.  I ripped that out made my adjustment from 24″ to the hem.  Then finally at 22 to the hem.  Oddly to me, any adjustment to the side seams causes the X wrinkles to reappear.  (No photo posted. Trust me, it was bad.)  I say “oddly to me” because I see and feel ease from waist to hem. Why can’t it be removed?  Even 1/8″?  I can pinch 2″ at the hip but can’t remove a smidge?

To decrease the hem circumference, I could have taken one step further and made darts in the leg beneath the knee. I didn’t because I’d already fused the hem in place and then top stitched it.   Besides I envision my seersucker pants as being loose; allowing for greater air circulation. I know I’ve said this before,  I burn easily.  If I want to be out in the sun, I need to cover up. But I don’t want to suffer heat stroke. Loose, light weight garments are the answer for me.

After three days of working on these pants, I had marked, stitched and ripped with such abandon that the pants were wrinkled and slightly soiled. I washed the pants and hung them in my closet.  I’m not sure I’m going to wear them.  They might become pj’s this winter. Their dark tone has me wondering what coordinates other than white which I can’t keep clean more than 15 minutes.  Funny, I prefer my  black, a solid brown and navy blue pants -all colors on the dark side- to these striped.  I do like stripes. I do try to choose muted stripes for my bottoms.  I don’t understand why I dislike this fabric so much.  But there it is.

I found one possible top to wear:

A RTW which hasn’t benefited from any of my fitting. But, maybe together these pants aren’t so bad?

 

SUMMARY CHANGES TO THE STRAIGHT INSEAM PP113

  • Straighten back inseam
  • Add 1.25″ to top for WB facing
    • 1″ elastic
    • 1/8″ edge stitching at top
  • Add 1/4″ ease to back leg
    • both SS now 5/8″
  • Remove 1/4″ from front leg
  • Fisheye dart across side seam
    • brings side seam up removing U’s
    • also helps with the front WB wanting to sit above natural waist
    • CF 0
    • SS 1″
    • CB 0

 

1008-Ascona, PP113

Franken Pattern Pants

I’m not done with the Ascona pant, but I am stymied.  I waited for your comments (thank you) and began following through on some of the suggestions. One of the things I’ve done is to review the pants fitting videos which Peggy Sagers posted. Now, I like Peggy.  I make it a point to watch the broadcasts live or as soon as possible.  But I don’t always agree with her. Sometimes, my experience says she is wrong. Sometimes, I don’t always understand what she is saying (my fault probably). Sometimes  I think she is making a broad generic statement when she should be referencing a more narrow criteria i.e. this applies to all my (Peggy Sagers) patterns rather than this works on all necklines (all being all inclusive meaning every pattern line, every shape).  But I like her and listen carefully albeit critically.  During one of her pants broadcasts there is no more than 30 seconds in which she states that once the hip and crotch is fit, you can add any leg. Just take the hip of the fit pattern and place the new leg below. Blend the side and inseam. Done.   That gave me a ??Huh?? moment and started me working again.

First off, here’s what I like and want to copy from the Asocna pant:  the hem finishes with a 16.5″ circumference. That’s all. The waistband treatment is given by several others including Pamela Patterns and Louise Cutting. I’ve used it several times and with a couple of tweaks.  If you haven’t noticed I love Pamela’s Pant PP113 . I use it frequently and plan to keep using it.  PP113 as currently fitted to me is wonderful when I want a 22″ hem circumference or lopped off below the knee for shorts.  My problem with PP113 is that when I try to slim the leg, my pants develop X wrinkles. I don’t like the X wrinkles.  I want my pants to either hug my leg smoothly (more lack slacks than leggings) or drop freely from the hip to a 20″ hem circumference.  I don’t give high marks  (Ok but not high) to everything in between.

I thought about Peggy’s advice to just put the desired leg onto the hip that fits. But I don’t want the Ascona leg as is.  I think those X wrinkles are ugly. I don’t want to attach a badly fitting leg to a nicely fitting hip.  Nor do I currently how to fix the wrinkles which go all up and down the inseam.  However, I do have a pant pattern that fits closely and like the leg very much:  Trudy Jansen’s Designer Jean (TJ906). It however does finish with an 18″ circumference while I’m lusting after that 16.5″ of the Ascona; and it is a 2-piece back-leg pattern while I’m desiring a single-piece leg. Nonetheless, I decided to compare TJ906 with PP113 because I’m using two known patterns which fit rather than one who’s fit I like and one I hate.   I’m comparing PP113 with TJ906 similarly to my previous comparison of 1008 (Ascona) with PP113.

The fronts of TJ906 and PP113 are amazingly similar. I didn’t expect this similarity between a jean and a trouser pattern.

I made a bit of effort before and during taking pics so that when shared the pics would be an easier to understand.  TJ906 is traced with a dark dark blue, large magic-marker. PP113 is also traced with a large magic-marker but in orange ink.

TJ906 is a jean pattern, as such  it is drafted with a separate  contour waist band to sit at or just below the natural waist when sewn. PP113 is a trouser drafted with the pants waist to sit at the natural waist.  I’ve added another 1.25″ to PP113 so it will have a self-faced waistband like the Ascona.  When finished both TJ906 and PP113 will sit about at my waist. I’ve aligned the pattern with crotch tip and straight of grains parallel.  Tj906 looks a little longer in the leg, while the PP113 has a little more ease.  Crotch curves are slightly different but both sit well on my body. Oh and both legs are the right length on my body.

The backs are a little more difficult to compare

Blue=TJ906; Orange=PP113

 

TJ906 is a 2 piece leg. Three if  the yoke is counted.  I’ve been tweaking the fit for my figure so what started as modest shaping has become very curvy.  As noted on I can’t put both leg pieces on top (or beneath) the PP113 to line them up. There are either huge gaps or large overlaps.   I did line up the back center leg at the crotch point with SOG’s parallel. When I look at the back crotch, I think the PP113 needs to be scooped but it works with the 22″ hem circumference.  From this pic, I can’t tell if the backs have the same amount of ease. TJ906  does looks shorter from crotch to waist (it isn’t; that’s the waistband effect again) while longer in the leg.

I think I can use the front PP113 and work on narrowing the hem to 18″ (although I lust for the 16.5).  But I’m not sure what I can do with the back legs. I shift the pattern pieces back and forth. Add the other other half of TJ906’s back leg and shift all again. Suddenly I realize that a really big difference is how the inseam is shaped.

TJ906 inseam comes almost straight down from the crotch point. Said crotch point is another significant difference. It has curved upward into a shape I generally call the “fish hook crotch”.  I decide to copy the inseam of TJ906 onto PP113. That adds at most another 1″ ease to the leg, less in most places.  I don’t think need more leg ease. In fact I was pleased to add the fish hook crotch because it  shortened the width of the thigh.  Look close. By poking upward the crotch curve is the same length, but that distance underneath the curve from side seam to inseam is at least 1.5″ less.  I don’t need the extra ease further down the leg so I measure in several places and take the same amount away along the side seam as was added to the inseam.  It makes for a straighter inseam and a curvier side seam.

Then I need a guinea pig.  And another post.  Once again I’ve talked way too much for a single blog post.

PP113

Denim Shorts

Notice, I did not call these jeans:

 

Sorry for hanger shot.  They are a very dark blue denim with slight stretch (10%).  I used PP113. I cut 4 different pairs of shorts at the same time. Completion of this pair welcomes  the 3rd to my closet which now gives me a total of 6 pairs of shorts.  I used the “shorts” version (traced from PP113 trouser with legs trimmed to shorts level). I folded out the fly so these will have a fly front; cut a straight waistband and cut front pockets. No back pockets.  There are 4 darts in back, 2 in front and a front curved pocket. Hems were finished with two rows of top stitching.  Can’t believe I’m admitting this, but I was too lazy to thread the cover-stitch just to hem the legs.

 

I used a button & hole closure which I think further gives more of a denim-shorts than denim-jeans vibe.  They’re a little plain, but I love them already.

 

PP113

Brown Stripe Shorts

I cut 4 pairs of shorts at once. I knew that I wanted more shorts for summer. More importantly, I’m cleaning out the Under 2’s — those remnants of fabrics that are too big to throw away but not large enough all projects.  The next pair I cut was from a white with brown stripe, stretch twill.  Stretch factor is about 15%.

The cuton waist band was already pinned to the my shorts version of PP113.  To make this pair different, I opted for inseam pockets, a fly front and Euro waistband.  (WB  is cut on and darts are stitched through the WB.)

I serge finished inseams and, crotch and the WB edge.  Added the the inseam pocket at the same time as serge finishing the side seam. Then I stitched darts, zipper and serged the inseams.  I stitched the crotch seams and pressed them open but used water soluble thread to stitch the side seams and tack the waistband into place.

I realized that the previous fabric with it’s 100% stretch would be “roomy’ and increased the seam allowances.  I thought this fabric with 15% stretch would act very much like a woven.  This stretch amount is intended to provide movement ease not style or minimal ease.  I was surprised that the pant was obviously tight across my bum (and thankful for my 5/8″ side seams.)  At the same time, it was not tight enough at the waist.  I let the side seams out 1/8″ and made the darts 1/8″ deeper. With 4 darts, that took the waist in sufficiently.    The first try-on made me think the shorts were just a bit longer than my preferred length. I finished the hem at 2″ instead of my usual 1.25”.

All in all this was reasonably quick to sew.  In fact, this is what I expect of a TNT.  I expect that the lengths will be correct and that ease may need to be adjusted for the nuances of the individual fabric.    My ideal is stitching zipper and darts permanently. Basting the rest together. One try-on from which minor adjustments can be made and then permanent finishes for an excellent garment.  Today’s shorts fit that bill.

 

PP113

Summer Shorts: Knit Pull On

I know. I know. We all hate hanger shots.  But there really isn’t too much to say about these.

I used my TNT Pamela’s Pattern 113.   Drew a line where I thought shorts should end and then traced a copy only from waist to the shorts hem line.  At cutting time, I added the fold over waistband drafted for the Dress Blue Pants.  I folded the zipper fly aside because these are to be Pull-On i.e. no zipper, no zipper fly and quick.

My fabric is a cotton/poly knit with a bark like appearance but very soft. So soft that during construction I increased all seam allowances.  These are almost entirely serged. The hems were cover stitched and the fold over waistband was cover stitched into place except for 2″ which I left open for inserting elastic. After the elastic was inserted and joined, I closed that seam with two rows of top-stitching .    Unless you look really close, you can’t tell where the cover stitching ends.  Just because I hate elastic that rolls and folds down, I adjusted the fabric evenly along the elastic and then  stitched-in-the-ditch along  each crotch and side seam.  I’ve heard of and used non-rolling elastic but I’ve found they lie. So I don’t trust the advertising and take steps to ensure my elastic will stay upright.

I need these for summer. I started with 3 pairs of shorts, which is certainly enough for home use. Gracious, I can launder every day if I’m so inclined.  I’ve already worn these and I’m not over the top loving them.  Not the pattern’s fault at all.  The fabric is stretchier than I thought.  By the end of the day, the bottom is bagging slightly (just enough to tell but who wants that look?); and the front crotch stretches up somewhat.  I’m really glad I didn’t add pockets. Which I skipped because I wanted these shorts done so I could work with 5620. Had I taken time for pockets, I would have had even more weight on the side and waist seams which I’m sure would have caused these to look bad long before the day is done.

I am happy with them.  I have a pair of shorts that coordinates with a number of my summer tops.  Additionally I did confirm the waistband fold over width and test the hemmed length.   For the next pair, because although I can launder every day I don’t want to, I will make the hem higher. Just a bit.

 

PP113

PP113 w/Jean Styling

I need to complete my planned black jeans for my Summer 6PAC’s but I’m excited about working with Connie Crawford’s patterns and not at all wanting to work on pants. Nonetheless it’s time to get it done. I’d already picked out the fabric, a light weight black denim with white stripes.  It has a Lycra content which provides about 15% stretch. I had in mind making a Faux Jean complete with front and back pockets, faux yoke and faux contour waistband using PP113. I do love this pattern and have been pleased with my ability to add styling–so far.

I refit this pattern April 2015 and for the first time used the narrow back. Since then every version I’ve made has been with non-stretch fabrics and retained the 18-20″ leg-hem circumference.  I’m going for jean styling which to me also includes a bit of jean fit.  I don’t want to use my TNT and then take huge seam allowances to compensate for the stretch alter my TNT so it isn’t usable as a trouser/slack.   Also my TNT has been through lots of changes. It looks more like a well-used road-map then a recent garment pattern.  I opted to cut a new copy. Just placed my TNT underneath blank tracing paper and rotary cut a new copy.  Adding notches, grain lines and other needed pattern marks after the tissue was cut.  I wanted to preempt the stretch factor.  I folded the new tissue along the grain line from waist to hem. Took it to the sewing machine and basted in a 1/8″ tuck on both front and back.

I wanted the look of the contoured waistband without all the work and without further altering my basic pattern. I know a way to do this.  I made a 2.75″ wide facing for the waist. I used  Swedish tracing paper to trace the front and back as is including the darts.  I trimmed the excess paper and stitched darts and side seams; pressed them open and added belt loop positions.

Onto the pockets. I stole the back pocket from another pattern I’m not using. Done!  Front pocket however had to be copied and drafted with the idea that it must extend all the way to the usual waist. That’s right, I’m not trimming the pant waist down. It stays as is including darts.  I started with the pocket bag that I’ve been using and copied it. Since this is a front jean-pocket, I made it not as deep, trimming  about 2″. Then I cut a copy of my new pocket bag and added the curved hand opening. Trick is that curve must be deeper. The usual jean-pocket as a narrow scoop. Mine is 2.5″ deep

Since this is a summer pant, in a summer weight fabric I prefer the legs to be ankle length. No problemo. I measured up 1.25″ from the hem and drew a line on front and back leg pieces. I folded the pattern up on this line.

I cut my fabric.  Stitched a faux yoke on the back.  That’s really easy. I measured the yoke and contour waistband of my exiting jeans and drew a line on the back pieces with chalk; loaded up the Cover Stitcher with black thread and stitch along the chalked line.

It’s one of those things that people need to get up close to see something is different. Even then most won’t realize that I should have had a separate piece. I know. I’ve done this before.

I stitched darts; prepared my pockets and fused them to the pant back before stitching the pockets permanently in place.  I deliberately chose to cut the back pockets with horizontal stripes. A decision I regretted at the first fitting. Considering that the pockets are fused and double stitched. They are not being changed.

I stitched the front darts and then added the pocket facing. I trimmed out the curve of the facing and wondered why I had bother to stitch darts. Then I added the pocket back and realized I was going to have fitting issues. Without the front darts, the pant front is sure to have too much ease. But I was moving right along and rapidly completed the zipper, inseams, and crotch before basting the side seams.

Then I started on the waistband. In theory, and this has worked for me in the past, the facing is sewn right side to the wrong side of the pant. It is then flipped up and over; the free edge is turned under and top stitched. That looks and fits just like a contour waistband but is only a facing turned to the public side. I did say this worked for me in the past?  I couldn’t get it to flip up and over. It would roll wonky with some of the wrong side showing in some places and the right side rolling to the back in others. For this to appear to be a contour waistband, the facing must turn crisply at the waist and turn under evenly at the bottom free edge. I made two facings. Choosing different interfacing. I forgot to mention that I also added belt loops because to me that’s an important part of the jeans look. The only good thing about this experience was that it was easy to rip out and toss because I had water-soluble thread in the bobbin. I struggled with the facing for more than an hour before deciding to use my straight waistband.

The straight waistband turned out to be a real gift. I was able to immediately see and fix the fit errors caused by sewing the front pocket.

So despite my frustration, pants look good

I had forgotten how I hate that curved pocket. The deeper the curve the harder it is to keep the facing neatly inside. I don’t want to stitch it down because I like working pockets.

Undoubtedly you’ll note that they aren’t even close to jean fit

Even taking out as little as 1/2″ ease, with a fabric that as 15% stretch caused the legs to pull at my knee.  For the final fit (above) I stitched the side seams at 3/8″ instead of 1/2″. I can still see a slight pull at the knee. This is what happens to me every time I try to get a closer fit.  Thankfully I have a link to Jill Sterns instructions regarding knock-knee fitting. I have tried this same alteration previously but I only offset the legs 1/2″.  In Jill’s instructions she says to offset as much as 1-1/2″. I’ll try on the next pair. This one is done.

PP113

Dress Blue Slacks

Apologies for hanger shots. My back just would not cooperate.

I’m again using PP113 because I made another tissue change.  I added 1/4″ ease/circumference to the back only.  Summary of tissue changes is now:

  1. Less 4″ leg length
  2. Crotch depth
    1. Back: 1/4″ evenly tucked  (total 1/2″ removed from back crotch depth)
    2. Front:  3/8″  Wedge at the center front decreasing to  1/4″ at the side seam
  3. Ease
    1. Front: Vertical 5/8″ tuck  (removes 1.25″ ease per leg total 2.5″ from the front)
    2. Back Slash and spread 1.50″ (adds 1.50″ ease per leg total 3.00″ added to the back)
    3. Net ease change = +.5″

I wanted to do something different. Anything. I chose to use a waistband similar to Loes Hinse Euro. It is a simple pattern adjustment already half done with the shorts in the previous post.  A straight waistband is drafted for the front and back pattern pieces. It is 3.5″ wide (my preference and includes 3/8 SA on each length-wise edge) plus 1/4″ for anticipated top stitching along the folded length-wise edge. The waistband pieces are pinned to the top of the front and back leg at the waist and overlapping the seam allowance of the pant and the waistband. This is just like the elastic waistband of the shorts. The first difference is that the darts are extended up through the waistband. They aren’t tapered as the rest of the dart. Starting at where the dart legs end at the waist, the legs are extended equal distance from each other all the way across the pinned on waistband.  Hmm a picture would be handy, but I didn’t make one.  Next change is preparing the tissue for a zipper insertion. Since I prefer the front zipper, I unfolded the front extension (as originally drafted). When stitching, the darts are  stitched from point through the cut-on waistband.

Euro Waistband

I used the MSS pocket again. I want pockets especially when I’m out and about in a more business like setting.  It’s surprising at how often, even with a purse somewhat handy, that a pocket is the most elegant solution to tucking something away while still having it handy.  I would tend to avoid the MSS pocket on more dressy garments. I used it here because I thought the fabric design would conceal the pockets’ top stitching.

I’ve used my fabric before. It’s a Walmart purchase and I believe a cotton/nylon blend. It is 66″ wide which makes me think it wasn’t intended for garment construction. But it works very well for summer pants.  It is light weight but firm. It tends to resist and then shed wrinkles. However, like all cotton garments, it can be a hot mess especially if I dozed off or wore them for 18 hours straight. It is a stripe of navy blue, white and a royal blue. I prefer stripes as a casual pant, or as an alternative dress pant. It will be my primary dress pant because I simply don’t have another similar fabric. I have pant fabric suitable for casual pants, jeans, transition and winter wear. Light weight  fabrics that work well for summer pants and are also navy blue are in short supply.  Not only does the pocket lie flat, flat, flat (one of the reasons I love the MSS pocket), the top stitching is nearly invisible due to the fabric’s stripes. The Euro Waistband is very flat. Between the two, this loose pant is actually slimming.

The two designs choices MSS pocket and Euro waistband added considerably to the sewing time. Nearing the end I realized why I don’t use this waistband treatment often.  For me it requires an inner button tab. The tab conceals the little gap that occurs when the zipper is nearly at the top.  I happened to set my zipper about 1/4″ down from the very top edge which can result in a large gap.  The tab pulls the top together and makes the closure a little more secure.