originally published 5/27/11
One of the things I get out of blogging, is the opportunity to stop and think; and let my left brain and right brain communicate. Really, the routine of loading pics, editing and starting to spurt out words in writing (which my right brain just loves to do) somehow allows the quieting of my mind and the passing of valuable information between the two minds. Today they came to the conclusion that it wasn’t necessary to add 1/4″ to the crotch extension. It would be less bulky and easier to chop a 2″ piece off and add a 2-1/2 piece. I also trimmed 1/2″ from the front crotch.
I finished adding the gussets (one to each back crotch); and sewing the pant back together, I wore it for several minutes. Correction, I wore the pants comfortably for several minutes until I made an abrupt bend and change in direction which popped the WST. No mind. I already knew what I set out to learn. It was a little tricky getting the front and back pieces to ease smoothly together. The nice thing about a small gusset is that it’s hardly viewable The back crotch extended and the front crotch shortened felt comfortable, the bubble in front was somewhat diminished. Not completely gone, but enough that it wasn’t irritating. The extra in the back completely eliminated any discomfort. I was pleased with the feel of my crotch changes.
Now for the pics:
First off, this pair of pants has still has not been really well-steamed and pressed. Every time I press a little more but with a dry iron. I’m a real believer that steam makes the difference.
I see the bubbles just below the waistband and I’m thinking the pant needs just a bit more ease. Unfortunately there is no way I can add extra now. I am, for the most part, satisfied with the fit and appearance from knee to waistband. Below the knee, I don’t know. The WST is in the waistband and darts. It is no longer affecting the inseam which appears to be ruched. Should I try taking some length out of the back leg?
I think the side, too, looks pretty good. The break at the knee is expected. Also a little wrinkling below as the pant breaks on the front of the foot. I don’t want my pants any shorter. I will actually add at least 1″ to the back and probably 1/2″ to the front. That means I’ve decided to live with a little wrinkling on the lower leg.
I’m still seeing my roll of fat underneath the waistband. I’m unlikely to ever to have this on display IRL because I prefer my tops to end at the high hip or a little lower. It does bother me to know that this drag line exists. As with the pant back, a little more ease 1/4″ or so would probably solve the issue for me. I do believe that the wrinkling above the shoe and below the knee is due to the length of the pants and subsequent break on shoe top.
I’m going to finish these off. I’m not sure when I’ll get final pics on my blog. I do want to remove all marks, the misc WST that’s hanging everywhere and give my new trousers an excellent press before taking pics and wearing them in public. In the meantime, this is Memorial Day Weekend for the U.S; officially the start of the Summer Vacation season and I plan to join several friends in various celebratory activities. Sewing is my passion, but not the only thing I do in life.
The $64,000 question is will you make this pattern again? I don’t think so.
- First off, the pattern offers me nothing new and unique. There are no interesting pockets or other design lines that I would want to copy.
- It is marketed as an easy to fit trouser pattern “designed for your specific figure” in my case an oval. Yet it took 5 fittings to reach an acceptable wearable point. I can tell you that I am absolutely not one of the other 3 bodies types; and I’m not excited about the fit of this Oval shape. It’s OK, but I’ve got 3 better fitting patterns.
- This plain trouser pattern would be most useful if it fit me perfectly or nearly perfectly right out of the envelope. A basic pattern such as this can be changed multiple ways. But I’ve had to do so much fitting, that I’d be reluctant to make design changes. I would be afraid that a design change would cause more fitting issues.
- This pant took a larger amount of fabric than I’m accustomed to using. I might be able to decrease the yardage requirement by permanently drafting front and back gussets. But if that’s my issue, why bother since I have 3 other reliable and perfectly fitting patterns that take much less fabric without doing the gusset thingy.
- Lastly, this pattern does not fit perfectly even now after 5 fitting sessions. I’ve spent about 10 hours (over 2 days) to reach this level of fit. I don’t want to invest any more time in it because of the previous listed reasons.
Nonetheless, if you don’t have a good fitting pattern or you are feeling adventurous, you might want to try this pattern yourself.
I’m not disabled or deformed, yet I have fitting issues not common to most women. Yes many are or have been overweight. But most people don’t have well developed calves, and bu++s from years of walking and running. (I won running awards while a teenager and still find walking an excellent stress reliever). My posture contributes to my fitting issues. I have a tendency to lock my knees which results in slightly more curvature to my spine. Not a real sway back, but it does have some effect. Also, I’m not knock-kneed, but the tendancy to lock my knees creates the same drag lines. I’m petite. I remove the excess length as follows 1 inch between bra band and waistband; 1 inch above the knee and 1 inch below the knee. Not affecting pants fitting, but I also have a narrow shoulder. I’ve yet to run into another person with exactly my fitting issues. I’m sure she’s out there, but I haven’t met her.
I would recommend this pattern because the designer is doing a detailed examination of what issues each body type faces. She is drafting the patterns so that (hopefully) you can make tweaks instead of alterations. It’s not her fault I’m a little more weird than she anticipated. She is also open and accepting of various alteration methods. She specifically states to “scoop as needed’. While many pattern makers hold up silver crosses and run screaming from the room, she accepts and promotes this simple fitting alteration. Although creating and adjusting the waistband LAST isn’t for me, it is a good idea. Just as is the idea of tweaking the crotch-fit with the use of elastic. I’ve used both techniques in the past when my fitting issues were less (and I didn’t have a digital camera to help me be @n@l about fitting.) I’d recommend trying these methods just to have the experience under your belt and the knowledge of how to use them. It’s good knowledge. Although the pattern isn’t for me, it could do wonders for you. I’ll point out again, but with different words, this could be a real wardrobe builder. Not kidding! A well fitting basic pant can be changed multiple ways. Having a pant pattern that you can sew in a few hours is a blessing words fail to describe.
Especially, if you don’t have a good fitting pant pattern, read her website carefully, email her (She does have a busy schedule. Be sure to allow her time to reply.) and give this pattern a whirl. It could be exactly what you need.