sdBev's Pants!

Archive for the ‘12269-EAC’ Category

EAC # 2

Posted on: April 26, 2012

originally published2/23/11

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I was excited about my first version of Louise Cuttings Ease Ageless Cool pants.  I decided to immediately make a second version with the changes to the leg.

 

Apparently, I don’t really understand drafting.  I thought the wider leg was created by taking the line and moving it outwards from a designated point, say the knee.  If that’s true, I reasoned, I should be able to move the line starting at the knee and removing the 1.5″ I needed gone at the hem.  I did so by darting out the excess just inside the sideseam of both from and back. I did not tamper with the inseam. The straight of grain remained in the same place. Then I made the next pair.

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Wearing the new pair was good.  Yes, really. Except that the front leg insisted on twisting towards the inseam.  Like I said apparently, I don’t understand drafting.  Still I thought I would convert the second pair to summer shorts and then try again on the leg. That is until I saw the pics:

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These are clearly too tight as well as having the leg twist and insuffient crotch room and length.  Apparently the difference in material, although both were wovens, tweaked the fit to too tight.  I really should go for the Medium.  Although the small might still be acceptable for knit pants, if I could fix the leg width.  But I suspect that with the next larger size, I will be reducing ease, scooping or adjusting crotch and trying to remove even more width from the pant leg.  Frankly, I’m thinking of just moving onto a different pant, especially considering the things I didn’t care for with the basic drafting.  The weather has cooled too much for me to work on summer versions of anything.  So these will go into “Time Out” for a few more weeks.

 

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  • In: 12269-EAC
  • Comments Off on Easy Ageless Cool

originally published 2/22/11

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Yes I’m talking about Louise Cuttings Pattern 12269

Actually I wasn’t going to purchase this pattern.  First there is the camp shirt.  I already have a very reliable camp shirt and another CLD pattern with a camp shirt that I haven’t made.  I didn’t have a need to buy yet another camp shirt pattern. Then there were the pants :

  • Pull-on  While I don’t hold up silver crosses, I don’t care for most pull-on pants.  I simply don’t like the bulk that most create around my waist.
  • Ankle Length, crop  Yuk.  I’m seeing these more and more.  I agree they are probably cooler in the summer. But they are so not flattering to anybody over the age of 6.  Why would I think that a 60 year should wear crop pants.  And finally
  • Straight leg style OK I love TLC’s What Not to Wear.  But I’m telling you the plump (which would be a kind description of me) do not look good with straight leg style.  It adds pounds to my lower half.  A straight or full leg pant can be worn, but must be carefully styled.  Generally it’s a summer look with full leg and slim, close fitting top.  This is winter.  I’m not wearing tank tops or anything else close on top.  In fact, I’m wearing bulky layers. I need slim on bottom.

 

So point is, I just didn’t think this pattern was for me.  Until my sewing angel said “You’ve got to try these.  The crotch fits practically right out of the envelope”  Like every woman who sews, I’m a sucker for the promise of an excellent fitting pant pattern.  So I bought the pattern; and I let it sit for several months.  Finally I decide I need to at least try this out.  I was really thinking of it for summer and I’m getting ready to start spring and summer sewing.  It would be nice, truly nice to have another pant style.

 

So began my EAC journey. (Psst it has a happy ending).  I compared the pattern pieces with my TNT pant pattern. Width across the hips for a size small would give me about 3.5 inches ease.  I’m good with that.  I was truly surprised to see that the front crotch was almost exactly like my TNT.  This was a good sign. The back crotch is either an inch too short or needs to be scooped out an inch.  I chose at this time to add 1 inch at the top of the back crotch and then tape on the waistband pieces as Louise instructs.

 

The pocket is nifty and adds only a few minutes to actual sewing.  Once you understand how it is constructed that is.  Reading through, transferring all the marks does take a little time.  The buttonhole is listed as optional.  However as soon as I had sewn the pocket pieces together, I realized my fabric choice (a crinkle rayon in fawn) would require a button or the pocket would forever be gapping horridly.   So added buttonhole and button (only another 5 minutes).  The pocket pieces were stitched with a straight stitch 2.5length.  Everything else was basted together, including hems, waistband and elastic.

 

The first tryon was superb.  I allowed too much elastic length.  This can happen because every elastic has a different stretch.  Sometimes even the same old elastic but new roll will stretch differently.  It did take me 3 times to get the elastic tight enough but once that was done, I photoed the crotches.  Actually they seemed pretty good. My sewing angel was right.

 

But the legs, as expected were far too full.

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The most I like is a 20″ circumference at the leg hem.  These had 24.  I tried taking 3/8″ extra through the inseam and leg.  No go. Made the crotch too tight.  I tapered the basting so that there was 3/8″ taken in from about 4″ below the crotch to the hem. I wasn’t really sure about taking more in on the inseam.  The side panel is meant to have straight seams as are the side seams of the front and the back.  How to take it in?  I mulled that over and ripped out the basting from lower hip to hem.  Then I moved the side panel so that it was offset from the back  about 1/2″ at the hem but tapers to standard seam at the lower hip.  It takes a pie shaped piece out of the side.  I repeated that for the front.  Tried it on, not enough removed.  So I got bold and made the pie shaped pieces 1.5″ at the hem.  Worked really really well!  With that, I stitched everything with permanent stitches and trimmed off those pie shaped pieces.

 

It was a few days later before I could wear them.  The rayon fabric selected was not warm enough for winter wear, but I needed to know how they fit.  My final verdict is

  • Still undecided
  • I have a 2nd EAC to report on
  • The crotch is comfortable when standing up. But when sitting it pulls down at the center back 1″ and bubbles up in the front.  I need to scoop out the back crotch and I may need to take the 1″ off the top previously added.
  • I may need to add another 1″ ease or go up to a size medium. But I won’t get to it for a while.  Temps have just plunged again and frankly it is too cool to wear these now.

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But, I LIKE them.  A LOT.