2011_Spring_428

Spring 428…

…again and again and again.  Last week I discovered that my wardrobe has a few holes.  I need neutral colored pants in a light weight fabrics.  I could use a few more shorts, but it was the long pants I really desired.  I retrieved the tissue for the 2011 Spring issue  Burda Plus pattern #428.  (I’m calling these my 428’s).
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I had not made this pattern in the length suggested by Burda. No I shortened the pattern made it once and then started adding interesting details.  I traced the pattern with my new personal-standard of size 46 for the body changing to 48 only for the back inseam.  But because I’ve made only shorts, I wasn’t sure how the leg would fit.  So I pulled out the pattern and lightly pressed to smooth old the folds and wrinkles.  Then I looked at the hems.  Hmmm.  Then I measured the hems.  Nah.  I ‘ve got pretty clear standards for pants.  Because I’m short, I don’t like the hem circumference to finish any wider than 20″.  My favorites are in the 17-18″ range.  These would finish at 24″.  I’m not only short, I’m wide.  The 24″ hem would make me look even shorter and wider.  BUT I also would like more shorts.  The 3 I made recently with Burda Nov 2000 # 140 are OK.  I was in a hurry and cut them too long.  When I corrected the length I didn’t have enough ease for the hem.  So my hems on those 3 pairs are OK, but not really nice.  They are good enough for sitting in front of the A/C but maybe I don’t want to go out in public.  I used the zipper and darts added in the last pair of 428″s and made a few adjustments to each new pair.

So I made 1 pair from cotton
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I wanted this pair a bit dressy.  I added the large scoop front pockets and also pockets in back.  I used a programmed stitch from my Ruby  to top stitch the pockets but since I did want this a big dressy, I used matching thread everywhere.

Pair #2 is a remnant from a woven stretch trouser fabric.
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I used a contrasting thread for the zipper application, and back pockets.  I skipped the front pocket application.

Pair #3, also a remnant but from jean fabric.
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It too has a bit of stretch. No front pockets; back pockets and contrasting thread used in several places.

I love this pattern.  It would be extremely quick to sew if I wasn’t adding the details.  But I also love it because I can get it almost all the way sewn before making my first fitting check.  The linen pants were perfect with the drafted ease.  I planned to take the sides in a bit more with the stretch fabrics but at the fitting I decided I liked them this way.  Which I do.  I like close fitting shorts because they make me look slimmer.  But I prefer these loose legs for the air circulation factor.

The original pattern does not include the zipper, darts or any pockets.  I almost wonder if this is now a sdBev pattern instead of a Burda Style pattweb.  My last addition to the pattern is a tab on the front behind the zipper.   I can add either a button or snap for a little more security at the closure.  With these 3 shorts, I concentrated on where to add the tab, what size it should be and at what time during the construction process it should be added.  When I use this (or a similar pattern) in the future I want to concentrate on making the front finish evenly and neatly at the top.
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I don’t quite have that down.  I mean I can see that the front needs just a bit of finessing.  It’s not that noticeable during wear because I typically wear my tops over my pants.  But I’m interested in doing really good sewing and would like to perfect this technique.

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2011_Spring_428

2011Spring Burda 428

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Every year, along about mid-August, we have 1 week of triple-diget temperatures.  Definitely reminds me of Utah but fortunately of much shorter duration.  For that week I really, really, really need shorts and tank tops.  I’m wondering how hot this year is going to be, because Mid-August temperatures arrived in Mid-June and that’s when I discovered I didn’t have enough hot weather clothes.  Before the temperatures broke, I was scrambling to do laundry while wearing  long legged pants. I realized I could probably have a new pair of shorts before the laundry was done and I started on this pattern

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Burda Spring 2011

The first pair, the wearable muslin, is not photoed.  It was made from a cotton/poly double-knit.  It was a hefty fabric, lots of body.  I traced a size 48 (though my measurements place me in the size 44, the fit of Burda pants 2 sizes larger seem more to my liking).  I did trace the back inseam one size larger (48).  I wanted a pull on pant with the waistband included.  The pattern gives directions for a separate waistband.  I matched the waistband along the waist seam lines and trimmed it even  with the center and side.  I traced the pant completely, located the knee markings and folded the leg up on a line 5″ above the knee.  I made one mistake with the first pair. I made my waist elastic too long.  They kept wanting to drop in front during wear.

The other thing I noticed was, these have a lot of ease.  Now, the pant is designed for wovens and I did make it 2 sizes too large. But still this firm double-knit sort of stuck out at the sides.  I think, had this been a soft knit, I would have been uncritical.  But knowing there was so much excess easy I trimmed 5/8″ off the side seams only for the next version; the version pictured here.

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Please excuse the excessive wrinkling. These shorts were worn for several hours before being photoed.

I  added a front zipper and 6 darts, 2 in front and 4 in the back a la Loes Hines European pants pattern. This is a wonderful addition. The pants fit smoothly and nicely at the waist. What appears to be a waistband, is the top 1-3/4″ folded down to the back and top stitched. It forms a casing through which I’ve run the elastic (now 2 inches shorter than the first version).
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Oddly the front seems to be trying to rise. I see it on the side view at both the hem and the drag line just above my hip. I often, but not always, see that particular drag line and I’m not sure what it indicates. I don’t worry about it too much because as normally attired, my tops totally cover the issue.
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The back has not been scooped yet. I need to scoop just 1/4″ for comfort if not to correct these radiating lines. I’ve been collecting pocket patterns and borrowed this one since the pattern didn’t include a pocket.

I did try to close the front neatly.  In fact I added a inside button and tab, to give a little extra support to the front zipper.
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I’m thinking that maybe 2″ less was too much less.

The fabric is a piece from one of the Fabricmart bundles. Itsa a woven with stretch so I think cotton/lycra. I wish I knew what it was because I like to have a one yard cut in various colors for nothing but shorts. I think it’s too firm a fabric to make a nice trouser. While it has stretch, it is minimal stretch, maybe 1% and is a bit stiff. The fabric would have been great in a wind-breaker. Surprisingly, it made very comfortable shorts.

 

Yes I had shorts to wear before the laundry was done.  But the brightest news is that my fitting method work yet again.  This is Burda pant pattern #5 in which I’ve trace the pant 2 sizes larger than the charts indicate and 3 sizes larger on the back inseam.  Although the pant had a little too much ease, that was easily detectable and could have been corrected at the first try on.