…again and again and again. Last week I discovered that my wardrobe has a few holes. I need neutral colored pants in a light weight fabrics. I could use a few more shorts, but it was the long pants I really desired. I retrieved the tissue for the 2011 Spring issue Burda Plus pattern #428. (I’m calling these my 428’s).
I had not made this pattern in the length suggested by Burda. No I shortened the pattern made it once and then started adding interesting details. I traced the pattern with my new personal-standard of size 46 for the body changing to 48 only for the back inseam. But because I’ve made only shorts, I wasn’t sure how the leg would fit. So I pulled out the pattern and lightly pressed to smooth old the folds and wrinkles. Then I looked at the hems. Hmmm. Then I measured the hems. Nah. I ‘ve got pretty clear standards for pants. Because I’m short, I don’t like the hem circumference to finish any wider than 20″. My favorites are in the 17-18″ range. These would finish at 24″. I’m not only short, I’m wide. The 24″ hem would make me look even shorter and wider. BUT I also would like more shorts. The 3 I made recently with Burda Nov 2000 # 140 are OK. I was in a hurry and cut them too long. When I corrected the length I didn’t have enough ease for the hem. So my hems on those 3 pairs are OK, but not really nice. They are good enough for sitting in front of the A/C but maybe I don’t want to go out in public. I used the zipper and darts added in the last pair of 428″s and made a few adjustments to each new pair.
I wanted this pair a bit dressy. I added the large scoop front pockets and also pockets in back. I used a programmed stitch from my Ruby to top stitch the pockets but since I did want this a big dressy, I used matching thread everywhere.
I love this pattern. It would be extremely quick to sew if I wasn’t adding the details. But I also love it because I can get it almost all the way sewn before making my first fitting check. The linen pants were perfect with the drafted ease. I planned to take the sides in a bit more with the stretch fabrics but at the fitting I decided I liked them this way. Which I do. I like close fitting shorts because they make me look slimmer. But I prefer these loose legs for the air circulation factor.
The original pattern does not include the zipper, darts or any pockets. I almost wonder if this is now a sdBev pattern instead of a Burda Style pattweb. My last addition to the pattern is a tab on the front behind the zipper. I can add either a button or snap for a little more security at the closure. With these 3 shorts, I concentrated on where to add the tab, what size it should be and at what time during the construction process it should be added. When I use this (or a similar pattern) in the future I want to concentrate on making the front finish evenly and neatly at the top.
I don’t quite have that down. I mean I can see that the front needs just a bit of finessing. It’s not that noticeable during wear because I typically wear my tops over my pants. But I’m interested in doing really good sewing and would like to perfect this technique.