I immediately cut a 2nd pair but carefully chose a microfiber fabric that would not stretch. I used the same tissues for the leg portion, but altered the waistband according to the changes needed to make the waistband fit yesterday.
The first thing I stitched, were the pockets. I used the same pattern, but a slightly different procedure. There was enough fabric to make pockets. Microfiber can be a bit limp, so instead of stitching a strip of matching fabric to the right side of the pocket, I stitched a 3.5″ strip of interfacing to the wrong side. Other than that, I did everything the same on the pockets. Interestingly, it took less than 7 minutes to complete both. 7 minutes. How often have you sewn 2 pockets in less than 10 minutes?
After the pockets, I immediately applied interfacing to the hems, inserted the zipper and then serge-finished all the edges. I fused the waistband and facing with interfacing, serge-finished their edges and then carefully pressed. I trimmed by re-aligning the pattern pieces on top of the waistband pieces. That’s a trick Louise Cutting taught me (and of course, thousands of others). It’s amazing at how much these small pieces can change in size and shape just due to initial handling. Every piece was trimmed at least slightly. But I’m positive now that I’m starting with waistband pieces that match the pattern. The pockets and zipper are permanently stitched into place. The hem is fused. The side seams, inseams and waistband were all sewn at a 3.5mm stitch length. I pressed. Then pressed again. The waistband and facing needed to be worked on for nearly 10 minutes. I mean, I spent more time pressing these shorts prior to the first try-on, then I did inserting the pockets. My fabric is a remnant from pants long ago. I don’t remember investing this much time into the pressing of the original pair. But having been confused as to was I looking at fit issues or pressing issues yesterday, well I decided to invest more time today.
What’s really nice, is that with this fabric due to it’s light color and zero stretch, I can really tell what is happening with this pattern. For one thing, I know that I’m pulling them up. I felt when I did it and deliberately pulled down at the sides for the photos. So #1 for my ease of mind, I need to add more height. For now though, let’s look at what these need to be worn this summer. First from the side:
I’ve almost corrected the angle of the side seam. It still leans back a little at the bu_t and forward a little at the waist. The forward inclination is really minor and certainly hardly noticed. What I’m more concerned about is the multitude of little lines coming from the side towards the front. These lines are on both sides of the pant. It’s as if I’ve ease the side seams together. I noticed this on the last pair, but it wasn’t present on the LL (long legged) original version. My immediate thought, is I need to walk those seams and make sure that where I drew the Shorts Line, is indeed in the same place on both front and back.
I’m getting the impression that the crotch is too short (possibly my pulling it up?) and that I don’t have quite enough ease across the hip. In the side view, the side seam leaned back. One clear indication that not enough ease was available on the back. There is also the matter of the slight dimples towards center back and below the waistband. These could be that the crotch upright is too long or it maybe that the crotch is being pushed upward and the pant tries to find enough ease for my bu_t. All things considered, I’m more inclined to believe I could use just a little more ease for the bu_t.
The front view completes the story. First all the drag lines pointing to the crotch assure me that the crotch extensions need more length. I’m also looking at the diagonals below the waist and above the hips. The previous 2 pants had the same diagonals but they were pointed in the opposite direction i.e. from crotch to hip, a forward slant /. Whiles these are from hip to crotch, a backward slant \. OK so I could be looking at the fact that this pattern is not designed to sit where I want it to sit. If so that’s a future correction to the tissue. I won’t be doing today.
Today I will be scooping out the crotch both front and back. I will walk the tissue side seams. I will be hemming the legs, stitching down the facing and adding a closure. Honestly, I don’t look any worse than anyone else down at the bank. In fact I look better than 9 out of 10 customers. At least that’s what the tellers all say.