2010-04-118

I have happy news..

originally published 7/2/10

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I have pictures to share of me in my new Burda 2010-04-118 pants, both versions; a plan for immediate sewing and a happy dance for my computer.

At times, I hate getting a new computer.  At work it seemed like I just got the old computer configured and working the way I wanted and then BOOM it was time for a new one.  The reasoning being that I, as head or high ranking IT, should experience all the horrors of the new equipment.  It was thought if IT went through the worst of it we would at least be sympathetic to the end user and quite possibly would have nearly all the bugs fixed.  At home, however, budget constraints decried a new computer every year.  The comfort of just sitting down at the computer and doing what I wanted to do without any special “work arounds” was, well novel and comforting.  I tended not to replace my home computer until it died and could not be resurrected.  However in a family who early on adopted computers as work and fun mates, I did seem to always be fixing, repairing and upgrading, just on a smaller scale and at my convenience.  Now it’s possible that I could have kept the old workstation running a little longer.  But I’d already replaced several parts, reinstalled the OS twice and was constantly monkeying with a few USB connections.  (The devices would seem to go to sleep and when they awoke, they didn’t know you anymore.  Kind of like periphereal alhizmer’s except that I could reinstall the “lost memory” by reinstalling drivers.) 

But today I’m doing the happy dance.  I bought an external bluetooth adapter and spent the next 2 hours convincing PC and Palm PDA to talk.  Son-of-a-gun, my PC was already blue tooth compatible.  Duh!  I did not read that when I looked at the configuration prior to purchase.  I probably didn’t need the external, but it’s working now so I think I will leave good enough alone.  I still have my itunes to reinstall and maybe DAK.  DAK is Desgn A Knit Professional, a very exclusive software for comminicating and directing electronic knitting machines.  It had a hefty price tag and propritary controls that won’t let it run if anything is in the least bit hinky.  That’s a topic for another place another day.  Point is I don’t have it on this computer and since I’m not using it I may resell instead of reinstall.  But today, I’m happy with my new PC.  Just need to do backups.  Just in case.  You never know.  Just in case.

Pictures, yes pictures of me in my new pants. More than just butt shots.  I dressed and styled so as to look “good” or as good as I can.

First up, the blue wool from the first copy of the pattern with tweaks to fit:

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I wore these yesterday while shopping. Although the leg does look like a Maralene Pant, they were comfortable and didn’t feel at all swirly. Looking at the pictures, they do look wide, which is not at all what I saw being worn at the stores yesterday.  Although I prefer my unfasionably wide-leg to the “pedal pushers” I saw yesterday.  Perdal pushers is what we called them when I was a kid wearing that length pant.  They were short enough not to get caught in the spokes of your bike while pushing the pedals.  My wide leg pants allow aircirculation and some cooling.  During the winter I’d defintely be wearing tights and boots.  Deep winter would call for a legging of some kind.  But for summer the air circulation meant cooling breezes without looking shorter and dumpier than I am.  Sorry girls, I know some of you are devoted to that pant because of how it makes you feel a few degress cooler.  Go ahead and wear them.  The true use of clothing is to control the effects of local weather on our bodies.  When it gets hot, we need to remove fabric or face heat exhaution.  You do what you need to do.  But I’m going to be looking for more light weight, wide leg trousers. 

Checking the wrinkles, I’m not sure if the wrinkles are fit problems or just the extra fabric added.  I add a full inch or more to the side front and side back from waist to hem; and again a full inch at the crotch all the way from crotch to hem.  Makes a nice full leg but to the pant I’ve add at least 4 inches to each leg that wasn’t in the original design.  Since the fabric is breaking at my most prominant point in the back and falls straight in the front, I’m inclined to say fitting my body is not the issue.

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Next is the pair from  the 2nd draft.  You have to follow this through, I made the width changes in the above paragraph to the pattern and then cut the blue pair above.  I copied the altered pattern and then applied the fitting tweaks to the 2nd copy, what I’m calling the 2nd draft.  I love these.  I will be making more.  I have an issue with the pockets.  They are rolling up and out.  I may need to top stitch them at the bottom pocket edge to keep them in place.  When I topstitched the pocket edge, I kept having to roll the pocket back inside.  I did think the top stitching the the pocket edge  along with the pocket stay, would keep the pocket in place during wear.  The pocket stay was a mere 1″ wide.  Oh and the pockets are shallow.  I could fit in a tissue, but I wouldn’t trust a key.  I will redraft the pocket to be deeper and the stay will be wider.  The stay will also then work as a tummy control panel.  Otherwise I’m pleased as punch with the fronts.  I commented in the previous post that these did not bisect my leg on the side.  In fact there is more front than back.  I’ve already altered the pattern to add 3/8″ width to the back and take 1/4″ from the front.  Why not the same.  Because the pant butt still looks a little tight to me.  There’s like a glare right off the prominant ledge.  Myabe that’s just how I’m built, but I’m at least going to try to make that a little better.  I do like these front and back.  I think they look natural.  I like this hem circumferance 21.5″ but may experiment with different leg widths.   Yesterday while I was in line, I really looked at other people’s pants, both men and women.  These pants look better than anything I saw on anybody else.  Well I should say both pairs look better than anything I saw.  I did see one pair of mid-calve pants that fit nicely.  But the short leg, made the wearer’s butt look wide.  Closer inspection revealed that the lady in question was slim, allover.  But, back to my pants.  These I’m going to wear. Make a few tweak, but basically this is the pattern for me.  Trouble is I’m still not sure what’s causing the folds of fabric in the rear.

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Even here, where I’m “standing up straight and tall” you can still see the folds of fabric.  There just looks like too much fabric between bum and knee.  Let’s not go back to the flatt but discussion.  This is not a flat butt:

Flatt Butt

If it’s an knee issue, there should be more than enough ease in the leg.  I mean I can grasp 5″ at the knee right now.  It will be a few more days before I make another pair.  Changes for next time are

  1. add 3/8″ width to back — I may change this to 1/2″.  The back looks a little tight.
  2. subtract 1/4″ width from front
  3. redraft pocket,  deeper pocket,   wider stay
  4. Decrease 1″ above knee (brings pant knee back up to my natural knee position).
  5. subtact 1/4″ wedge from top back pant. (1/4 at crotch seam to zero at side seam)  I’m still getting a little bubble just under the waistband.  Since the pant is being held in place by both clear elastic and a belt, I’m inclined to think there’s just too much fabric. 
  6. Narrow the leg 1/2″ front and back

That will be 8 changes to the tissue.  Minor changes to be sure, but a lot of minor changes.  I’m reluctant to do much more.

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2010-04-118

The Week In Review

originally published06/30/2010

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w/Butterick5355Overblouse

The overblouse is intended to work with Burda pants 2010-04-118.  I shared in my previous post, that I completed a rayon crinkle fabric constructed from my favorite knits-only Tank Top – which BTW turned out beautifully.  But the pants themselves seemed stuck in never-never land with Streeto landing beside them.

Well not quite.  I did not hurry my decision on the pants.  I’ve learned that ejvc’s evaluation of pants is correct for me as well.  Every pattern, every pair must be carefully constructed with fitting evaluated and adapted every step of the way.  If not, I may as well purchase RTW; ugly, ill fitting RTW.  If I’m going to sew pants, I need to put the time, thought and effort into their fit and construction.   So I spent 4 or 5 days constructing these pants; wearing them 3-4 hours daily; making one change a time. Until I was unsure…  I liked they way they fit across the hips; in the rear and at the waist.  I liked how they looked in the mirror and pics.  I loved they way they felt.  But I wanted a narrower leg.  Totally stumped, I decided to clean the pants and rethink.  After cleaning, I hung the pants on Mimie, styled with the new Rayon Tank and the new Silk Overblouse.  Oh my I loved them even more.  I loved them even though they were not what I had originally envisioned.  I decided to finish them as is.I constructed belt loops, stitched the waistband in permanently; added button and buttonhole.  Gave a good pressing, evened up the hems and finished by serging the side seams and inseams before hand stitching the hem.  Yes HAND stitching.  I felt that these are a little on the dressy side.  The wool/Dacron blend creates a wonderful pant fabric with perfect drape and no-see through issues while still being light.. I took my time with the final pressing.  I savored the aroma of wool being steamed.  Funny, I’m allergic to wool, but I do love the aroma while wool is being pressed. And then, I lovingly hung the pants on an appropriate hanger.  I’m hoping to wear these this week on our monthly shopping trip to Mitchell. I do hope to have a worthy photo to show you.

Ah but I’m not done.  No, I made still more productive gains.  I cleaned the sewing and stash rooms not just vacuum and trash but putting all the little items away i.e. patterns, bindings, buttons.  Yes everything that was out of place has been returned to the designated spot.  And then, I begin retracing the pattern.  But I started with the already traced pattern and applied the final changes to my new tracing.  I still believe that original tracing to be valuable since it captures a perfect crotch as long as I want it to end exactly at my waist.  The new tracing, however, captures my desired fit with the exception that the legs are still wider than I prefer.  Oh and I’ve already picked a fabric to pursue my “perfect fit”.  It is a silk, no lie.  But a beefy silk.  Lots of body, good for summer pants.  Yes summer pants.  While beefy, silk in this form is still light weight and encourages air circulation so it will be cool – temperature wise- to wear.  I’ll have another post in a few days or week.  We have things to do, pleasures to experience.  But I am anxious to pursue fitting the perfect trousers. Oh and I noticed one thing very import.  When I finished the pants, the hem width was 21.5.  Burda said these should finish at 22.5.  That means my final adjustment brought the pant legs back in line with the original design.  When I transferred my changes to the pattern, I drew a horizontal line 1″ below the crotch.  I marked a vertical line all the way to the hem and then 3/4″ on either side.  Opps, I did this twice3.  Once next to the inseam, once next to the side seam.  Then I cut straight up that line and overlapped the hem 3/4″ on both adjustment lines.  I’ve got this “Draft 2″ cut out and have begun to sew.  I’m having problems waiting to finish.  Although I won’t be entirely finishing.  I’ll be sewing zipper, darts and front crotch in permanently.  The rest will be serged at 1/4″ and basted at 3/8” until I do the first fitting.  I have my fingers crossed and I’m holding my breath.  I do hope the changes I transferred to the 2nd Draft creat a great fitting pant for me. Oh I do, I do—but I’ve already lost 2.4 pounds this month. So how long will this new draft fit???

2010-04-118

Burda 2010-04-118 2nd Draft in SILK

originally published 6/30/10

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Not silk  like silk satin or silk chiffon or even duopioni, but a woven silk, with body.  Not a heavy slub, but a textured feel to it.  I purchased the silk during one of Michaels sales.  I wish you could feel and see it in person because the picture of this swatch:

 

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just can’t tell you what a wonderful fabric it is.  I purchased this after my vacation to the Gulf.  Walking along the shores of Texas convinced me of a few things.  First and foremost I want to go back every year.  South Dakota is my home.  Here is where I have close friends and life activites that are most important.  There is where I leave all my troubles behind.  Walking along those shores, especially early or late in the evenings, as the breezes picked up and at times felt like stiff winds, convinced me I needed a little more fabric covering my body, adding warmth as I soaked up the incredible life force all around me.  Then there was the opposite situation. Again walking along the beach but with the sun beaming straight down, cooking me until I turned the same color as the delicious lobsters I was eating in the local restaurants.  Um, also a good reason for a little additional fabric.  Just a little something between me and a 2nd/3rd degree burn.  Before vacation ended last year, I knew I wanted something, light, comfortable, airy, wind protecting, sun-blistering protecting that could cover me head to toe as and when needed.  Michaels sale just allowed me to satisfy my curiosity and fulfil my desire. 

 

I wasn’t too sure about silk, however.  I haven’t experienced or heard much about silk in my life.  Mostly that it was a fabulous, expensive, drapable, expensive, comfortable, expensive, beautiful and did I mention expensive fabric.  I had no desire to spend time and money on a garment to be worn only once.  I hadn’t really heard of silk being worn for such a casual garment.  But I wanted the weather abating qualities I knew this silk would provide me.  So this pair of pants is a test.  Will silk work for this purpose?  Will silk survive this treatment?  Will I love silk as much at the end of vacation as I do now when I’m close to completing the pants?  I won’t know for a while, but I will share what I do now. 

 

For starters, it does make a nice beach combing outfit:

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This lady does not appear to be overdressed or over-stressed but she might think about hemming the legs.  Oh that’s me definitely giving off the vibes I want for vacation.  I made the pants using Burda 2010-04-118.  In case you missed the post, I traced 2010-04-118 and made some major alterations to the pattern by comparing it to Burda 2010-06-115. I cut a nice cotton/dacron and fit 118 to my body.  Then because I wanted to preserve the pattern configuration of a crotch which reaches all the way to my waist, I copied the original tracing of 118 and transferred my fitting changes to the new copy from now on called: 2nd DRAFT.  

 

From 2nd DRAFT, I cut this SILK.  Darts, zipper and pockets were permanently stitched.  I did slant the pocket much more than usual so that I would be able to take in the side seams and still get my hands in the pockets.  I like functional pockets.  If they can’t be used, I don’t want to bother with pockets.  Just me, you may feel differently.  Thats OK.  So after permanent stitching what next? My seam allowances should be 3/8″.  My fabric was raveling so I serged the inseams, side seams and crotches at 1/4″, basted the waistband to the pants and safety pinned the hems in place.  Then it was photo shoot time.

 

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Front: Not bad.  Other than the legs being long and I doubt that you can see it but there is a pin marking the knee.  It is falling at least 1.5″ inches below my physical knee.  I’m not sure if this is an issue.  The finished hem circomforance is 21.5″.  The leg does not appear to be hanging up anywhere.  It probably occured because of adding 1″ (or was that more) to the first draft. It’s not an issue with this version, this draft, but I would want to keep this in mind for future Burda pant patterns. i.e. If I add an inch above the crotch, I probably need to subtract an inch above the knee.

 

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Side.  There’s always the question when looking at a photo of the side.  Are we looking at the side seam where it should be, or looking at an angle which is distorting our conclusions.  So let me tell you that I carefully taped a mark on the floor.  I line up the camera view finder and my foot with the mark.  So I can tell you that truly that I need to add more width to the back so that the side-seam will bisect my leg.  At least 1/4″ which I will need to remove from the front width. Ah yes Myrna said it best “everything affects everything else.” (Forgive me Myrna, I couldn’t find my link to your blog).   But other than looking long, I doubt that anyone else (excepting other dressmakers) will be able to see that the side view needs a little improving.

 

Now the back, but I urge you to with hold outright condemnation:

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Yes, I see the drag lines pointing diagonally from hip to waist; and yes I see the folds under the bum all the way to the floor; and yesssssssssss the bum seems a little tight.  But I see, and I’m sure you don’t, that the waistband is only basted and pinned.  It is missing the clear elastic used in comfort waistbands.  It is missing a belt because the belt loops are flopping about instead of stitched in place.  It is missing a front button or other front closure, because this is a first fitting.  And just like the front and the side, the legs are too long.  The hems are puddling on the floor, which causes puddling up the leg.  While it’s tempting to rattle off 3-4 major fitting alterations, I’m not.  I’m going back to my Sewing Room, at the clear elastic, the button and button hole, stitch those belt loops in place and hem the pants.  When I return, sometime tomorrow or the next day, I will be showing you a well fitting, comfortable, beach combing, pants from silk, silk, silk.

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BTW, I edited the Week In review to add pictures of Butterick 5355. Do look.  That’s wonderful pattern and I used a fabulous fabric (silk chiffon).  Together it’s a match made in heaven.

 

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Also, if you really object to my adding things for sale to my blog, I think I’d like to know about it.  Tactfully of course.  But if you’d never visit my blog again just because I’m hoping someone would take a pattern or book off my hands, well I’d want to rethink what I’m doing.  But if you don’t comment, I won’t know.

2010-04-118

Burda 2010-04-118 Trouser Fit 04 Session 05

originally published 6/26/10

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I’m losing track of the sessions and the fit number sequences. But I did want to post an update. Fitting this pair of pants is probably taking entirely too long. However I’ve learned if I want near-perfect/perfect fit, I must spend my time: basting, ripping, thinking …. and repeat.

 

 So here I am at the end of Fit #4. Let me summarize the differences between Fit 01 and Fit 04:

  1. Final side seam allowances are 3/4“. When I stitched the side seams this final time, I did not baste. I used a 3.0 stitch length and then serge finished the side seams.
  2. Side Seam Allowances are trimmed to 1/2″. I could let the SA’s out another 1/4″ on each side if needed.
  3. Darts were copied from the original pattern. In Fit 01 I cut 1-1/8″ from the top of the pants which cut 1-1/8″ from the length of the front crotch, same from the back crotch and incidentally from the top of each dart. Thereafter, I eased the pant to the waistband. It occurred to me that some of the wrinkles and ease above the hip might be controlled by using the darts as originally designed. Really it took hardly any time to mark and restitch the darts AND my thoughts were correct. Both the waistline area and fitting in the upper hip improved considerably.
  4. Using Back Crotch line 2010-06-115. This was tried in fitting 03 and retained. The back looks and feels so much better by using this crotch. I’m not sure if it is a requirement for my physical configuration or the chosen fabric or overall pant draft, but something seems to require this particular line in order to fit me well. Whatever, the truth is this draft, this fabric, my body, looks and feels better with the straighter back crotch.
  5. Pant legs width has been reduced 3″ at the hem by creating a 3/4″ dart from hem to knee on both inseam and outseam. I still prefer much less fabric in the pant legs, but overall the pant looks nice. I could wear these pants proudly just as they are. I would need to be selective about my tops and accessories. A wide leg pant needs careful balancing to be most flattering.

How about a peek before talking future plans:

 

 

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Yes, yes, yes, I do see multiple wrinkles and drag lines. Please give the photos a little leeway. First off, I’m not a professional photographer.  I’m hardly a rank beginner.  Let me rephrase that.  A rank beginner typically produces better pics than I.  The pants have been worn for about 20 hours with brief pressings inbetween the rip-baste-think-repeat cycles.  They were photoed at about 10PM.  I’m tired.  Maybe they are too. There is little or no permanent stitching.  Believe me, completing the waistband with buttonhole and button, permanent hems and other seams along with a little starch and a good pressing will make a humongeous difference even without critical accessories such as shoes, belt and a slimmer.

 

So what am I going to do? Well I’ve already washed, lightly starched and lightly pressed the pants and tried them on again. I’m sure that surprised several people. Why wash pants before they are completed? I’ve known people who constructed their pants and wore the same several times before laundering. Wearing jeans “dry” is a well known practice amongst devotees who do not want the jean fit to change in the slightest. These people will put their jeans in the deep freezer between wearings to control odor. Dirt? Grim? General Soiling? Not a concern.  But they’re not ME. I washed my pants before the final fitting. Why? Well I’m pretty insistent upon cleanliness. I wear clothing one time and launder the garment before the next wearing. I do have exceptions. Something I tried on for a few minutes and then swapped out for a different garment, goes back on the hanger with no further care. Something that I’ve worn for 20-30 minutes as well as jackets, vests and some outer garments are examined carefully and spot cleaned; lightly steamed or pressed before hanging back in the closet for the next wearing. So far during construction these pants have had 20 hours of wearing. Not continuous wearing. I wear them for 30 minutes up to 4 hours, while thinking ripping and basting. I press before the next trial wearing. Granted I’m wearing these in my sewing area where they are not likely to actually get dirty. But they still will be acquiring my bodily oils, aromas and perspiration with each wearing. AND the fabric will relax and stretch somewhat with each wearing, as evidenced by my knock-knees becoming more and more prominent.  My knees are not getting worse; the pants are stretching to accomodate them and not returning to non-knock-knee state before the next wearing. Because of the wool content, I hesitated, but eventually selected the cool wash, rinse and timed dry. I mentioned I lightly starched and pressed? Well they need to be more firmly pressed before I make further changes. Oh and they have been hanging in the sewing closet for 3 days waiting for my renewed attention. I know that when I pick-up this project again, I will

  1. Give the pants a good firm pressing
  2. Replace basting of the crotch and waistband with permanent stitching.
  3. Permanently install the waistband to include the buttonhole and button.
  4. Hem at the 3″ mark.
  5. Construct and Install front pockets
  6. Construct and install belt loops
  7. The back pockets have an uncertain future.  I may just ignore the possibility of back pockets.  Especially since I haven’t the foggiest notions about embroidery.  BTW, that’s my only justification for installing back pockets; the opportunity to machine embroider something intriguing is the sole allure for back pockets. IMHO.

 

These areas are complete. Finished. Perfected. From the waist/waistband to just below the bum, these pants are fitting the way I want.

 

 

The legs from low hip to ankle are still up for consideration. I haven’t decided whether to

  • Take the inseams and side seams in some more
  • Rip the inseams and side-seams out and use a different pattern to redesign the leg.
  • OR complete the final stitching on all seams and wear them PROUDLY. They are good pants just as they are. If I wanted a wide-leg pant, these fit darn near perfectly. They look D@^^^ ^^  G00D on me!!!!! Part of me wants to copy the original pattern, apply adjustments and make a second pair exactly like these. A small part of me wants to “Go for the Gold”

and make slim legs as well. Whatever I decide, you’ll be the first to know. That’s right. I post on my blog and then copy to Stitcher’s Guild. If you really want to know what I decide to do, LOOK HERE first.

2010-04-118

Burda 2010-04-118 Session 04 Fitting 03

originally published 6/23/10

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Fitting 03 started with the realization that there was still too much fabric on my bottom half. I like the “skims everything reveals nothing” fitting approach with pants. Flowing, no-shape-hints-allowed, is not one of my favorites and definitely not what I wanted with this pair of pants. So I did two things (1) I hemmed the pants at 3″ instead of 2 This way the pants did not drag the ground. They hang from the waist and do not puddle on the floor.

 

Secondly I took another 3/8″ seam making the total on my side seams 7/8″ Whoops this was too much. And I’ve got the under-butt wrinkles again. So Now I rip out the back crotch and restitch but on the line I’d traced from Burda 2010-06-115. Letting out the back, gives me more at the waistline. I’m not sure whether I want to sew this out, so I ease the waistline to the waistband and call it good for now.

 

Now with Fitting 03 complete, I’m satisfied with the fit of the waist, back and front crotch, and width above the crotch. The entire leg is still too wide. And at this point I’d like to point out the safety pins in the front. If you haven’t noticed them before, they are pinned at the knee mark in the center front of each leg. However, they are 2″ below the center of my knee. I’m pretty sure that it’s too late to change this pant now and may not be needed. This leg is so wide that I can do lots to the width without affecting the fit at the knee. But I’ve done enough sewing for today and want to think about it before “fixing” anything else. So take a look FITTING #03:

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2010-04-118

Burda 2010-04-118 Fitting #02 (Session 03)

originally published 6/22/10

Loping off the 1-1/8″ from the top made a big difference in the feel and look of these pants. I still was seeing some wrinkles in the back that had me asking “Is this too still to low? Too tight? Or am I seeing that the waistband is still not tight enough?” I remeasured the waistband. It is difficult for me to get a really good measurement once the fabric is cut and stitched, but it did seem to still be my waist +1″. Preplexed, I decide to try the Comfort Waistband trick. I’d prefer to put clear elastic in the waistband seam. But I think I may do a lot more adjustments which means ripping and handling. So I decide to put clear elastic inside the waistband, but on the top just under the fold. I used a triple-zigzag stitch and cut the elastic exactly my waist measurement.

 

I wore them for several hours after that alteration before deciding they had much too much ease. I admit that staring at the pics also convinced me that there was entirely too much fabric on the bottom half of my figure. In the pics the side seams run beautifully perpendicular to the floor and bisect my side perfectly. I decided the best and easiest course of action is to baste the side seams an additional 1/8″. I also decide to baste the hem in the final length using a 2″ hem. Fitting #2 complete and these are shaping up.

 

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Couple comments.

Sessions and Fitting don’t have the same number. It’s more like days and sessions are equal. On Day One Session One, I traced, altered, cut pattern and fabric. Ond Day Two Session Two, I did Fitting 01. Day Three Session Three, Fit 02. Confusing? I was afraid so.

 

Each fitting is taking place on a different day. That gives me plenty of time to contemplate the changes that I need to make. My figure seems to be unusual in that the wrinkles aren’t easily read. In nearly every fitting book and if I ask for fitting help, I get or see the response “this wrinkle means make that adjustment”. I’ve found that just doesn’t work for me. The winkles indicate something it not quite right, but not necessarily where the issue is. As in the at the first fitting when there were smile lines at the front crotch. Most advice would be, add more ease to the inner thigh. But the pinchable ease was 3″ and the crotch was hanging too low. Raising the crotch, by loping of at the top, took care of the smiles and lots of the wrinkles on the back legs. Shortening the crotch length, not adding ease was the correct answer for my body

2010-04-118

Pant Obsession: Burda 2010-04-118 Fitting #01

originally published 6/21/10

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I didn’t get back to fitting the 118 pants as soon as I would have liked.  Life intervened and took over one day.  Then I spent four days completing pattern re-organization, a well overdue task, but very, very worthwhile.  In fact, in the prior 6 months, I wished several times that I had already completed this particular task. And concurrently, I was working towards fitting this pattern; in what may seem to be a piece-meal fashion.  The thing is, I’ve noticed that that well-meaning and typical fitting advice doesn’t always apply to my body.  For example, my pants often have diagonal wrinkles below my hip:

 

 

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The most often offered advice and BTW the fitting manuals from Sandra Betzina and Palmer and Plesch show photos and offer the very same advice; is “Do a flat butt Adjustment”.

 

 

Which never helps.  I’ve tried it several times. Usually I end up with more winkles instead of less. A flat butt adjustment doesn’t help, because my butt looks like this:

Flatt Butt

 

 

 

 

My butt is not flat.  I just display the same wrinkles that a flatt-butted 80 year old woman would also display. 

 

So I do not accept without careful consideration any well meaning, logical advice.  I do consider it, carefully. I just don’t automaticall apply said advice.  To start fitting this pattern, I relied upon my previous experience fitting 2010-06-115 trouser-draft shorts-pattern.  These are the “Holy Grail” of shorts for ME.  2010-06-115 fits so wonderfully perfect, that I wanted to transfer all my fitting adjustments to a new-to-me long-leg, trouser-draft, straight-waistband, pants-pattern Burda 2010-04-118.   To do so I traced the pattern from the magazine and then made the following alterations:

 

  • +1.75″ to back crotch length
  • +1.75 to front crothc length
  • -6 inches to lower leg
  • +1″ to back crotch extension (from extension to hem)
  • + 3/4″ to front crotch extension (from extension to hem)
  • +1″ to front width (at side) from waist to hem
  • +1″ to back width (at side) from waist to hem
  •  I traced both the back crotches from 118 the current pattern and 115 the perfect fitting shorts pattern.

 

 That looks like a long laundry list, but Sandra Betzina has written that the average person will have to make 10-12 adjustments to any and every commercial pattern in order to achieve acceptable fit. Acceptable fit. Not perfect, but fit you can live with.

 

I did get the fabric selected, basted together with the 118 back crotch shape and tried the pants on for all of about 5 minutes before dinner was served.  I had time however, take pictures which I studied the next day. 

 

To say I was utterly preplexed, is an understatement.  For the final on todays post, take a look at the photos from the first fitting. Ok I know my top is covering some critical aspects.  But having made major changes all transferred  from the  perfect fitting shorts, well I was expecting something different.

 

FirstPatternAdjustments