Jalie 968 Jeans

originally posted 3/20/2010

I was so thrilled with the 2908 pattern that I immediately started and finished a pair of jeans from the Jalie 968 pattern.  This is an older pattern with recommended fabrics denim, corduroy or cotton.  Not a stretch fiber mentioned anywhere.  The pattern pages did however say that the included ease was .75 inches.  That’s pretty close.  I wanted a closer fitting jeans pattern for my woven non-stretch fabrics. But I just wasn’t comfortable with only .75 inches ease.  When looking at the sizing I realized I was between sizes.  There is a size for 40″ hips and the next size is for 42″ hips.  (Do the math.  My hips are not a national secret but neither does their exact measurement need to be cited again and again).  Anyway I realized that the larger size would give me closer to 2″ ease and if I made my seam allowances 1/4″ instead of the 3/8″ recommended I should be getting close to 3″.  So I traced Size X, with out alteration.  Even left the crotch alone.  After all Jalie had made the perfect stretch jean pattern.  I found after wearing my stretch 2908 jeans that the crotch extension had been unnecessary. 


There will be no pictures.  This is not even a wearable muslin.  The waistband is perfect.  The legs are attractive.  This is the first pants pattern where the outseam bisects my leg.  Usually I have to take from the front and add to the back because the outseam falls to the back half of my leg.  But not with this pattern.  The pattern is beautifully drafted.  Anything that sews together as perfectly as this did had to be perfectly drafted.  I belive all the wrinkles in the back leg are due to the jeans being too long.  I need to make a horizontal tuck front and back of about 1″ above the knee.  The inseams are almost if not exactly the same length.  I therefore do not get any wrinkles on the inseam only.  The wrinkles are front and back horizontally all the way around.  The knee point mark falls below my knee cap.  So that all points to the leg wrinkles being the results of the leg being too long.  Easy peasy fix.  But these are not even a wearable muslin because the torso is far, far too tight.  Every goose bump on my rear is visble and I belive I could detect hairs in the front.  This is definitely not the desired look for me.


I will make these again.  Why, you ask?  Because I traced the pattern, ironed the fabric, cut the fabric stitched everthing together pockets, hems, waistband, button and buttonhole everything in 3 hours.  I even cleaned up my sewing room.  I saved time by skiping most of the topstitching and using only a straight stich for the little topstitching on the back yokes and pockets.  I know I’ve gotten a lot of practice, but also this pattern is so well drafted that it goes together almost by itself.  The pieces fit like they are supposed to. 


My problem now is determining the next size I want to make.  I think the math is my hip + 3″ ease – 3/4 inch included ease; and choose pattern from the result.  Don’t know if I will get this done today.  But sometime tomorrow I will have a new pair of jeans.