Without a doubt, I am a glutton for punishment. I have 3 wonderfully fitting pants patterns. Most sewists would be in hog heaven to have even one reliable pattern. But like my sewing angel, I just can’t help myself. I have to try just one more pattern. The last 3 days, instead of working on drafting a collar for my blouse, I’ve been working on Trudy Jansens Designer Pants pattern 905
Now to tell the truth, I expected this to be quick and easy. More truth, I had purchased this pattern several months ago and had just now decided to go ahead and try it. Why? Well when looking at the pattern I thought the only difference between this and 906 the Designer Jeans (at the same link) was that this pattern doesn’t have a back yoke, but does have that nicely fitting 2 piece back pant leg. Why try now? Well, I have some ideas about fixing my blouse but need to experiment some more first.
Once I opened the pattern I found that this pocketless pant, had a side pocket. Something I hadn’t noticed before. I’m not particularly found of this type pocket, but usually on the first usage, I try to follow the designers instructions and details. I traced the pattern in the same size as my 906’s and altered the leg length removing 1 inch above the knee. Then I decided to compare the pattern pieces to see how much they really were alike or different.
I do hope you can see the details in this picture. 906 is close but not nearly exactly the same as 905. Besides the lack of a back yoke, the legs between the knee and the hip have substantially more ease. Also the crotch back extension is longer. I didn’t change the ease in the thigh. After all the pattern recommends different fabrics than the jeans pattern (906). I know from sad, frustrating experience that the fabric can have a major impact on the fit of the final garment. But I couldn’t help myself, I extended the back crotch just one more 1/4″. Not sure it helped though:
The seams are stitched together with 3/8″ SA; waistband and facing are basted with a scant 3/8SA. This is the first pic, first fitting. Although I could feel and see things, I wanted pics before making any changes. It’s those diagonal lines between butt and knee that concern me. I’ve seen them disappear and then reappear with the next fabric. I’m not sure what causes them. I’m constantly on the look out for when they develope. One of these days, I’m going to figure out what causes the diagonls lines on me. In this first set of pics, these pants are far too tight across my bum. I’ll have no way to fix that, but I might be able to help out the camel-toe in front. I put the pants on and took pictures right away. As I wore the pants I realized that they settled downward which all by itself may take care of the camel toe. But I will be taking out the basting of the waistband and its facing and restitching at 1/4″. Surprisingly, even 1/4″ is cirtical with pants. I can scoup out the back crotch a little more. I’m also not happy with how the pants are cut with more fabric in back than in the rear. See the side view? My side seam is angled forward. When I look at the pants pieces themselves I can see that the front is not wide enough for me. I think just enough to make that side seam stand up straight, will also be just enough to take care of tightness across my butt too. I had one other issue with this pattern. This is a 4 piece waistband. Great for fitting. I had expected the side seams of the waistband to line up with the side seams of the pant. They did not. I have only one set of waistband pattern pieces, so unless I was given the wrong size, I feel these were misdrafted. The back waistband was not long enough and would have required lots of easing. While the front was entirely too long. I compared my cut and interfaced waistband with the pattern piece. I also rechecked to be sure I had not mismarked back and front. I stitched the waitband pieces together and then eased the pant to the waistband, ignoring the fact that the side seams were grossly off IMO. That’s something I will want to fix next.
But you know what? Even as tight as these look, they’re still comfortable to wear. I added belt loops because belts have become a life-saver. As I lose weight, the pants will still be good just a few more weeks, because the belt will help keep them up where they should be! And if I wear these they way I normally wear pants, no one is likely to notice their fitting issues:
ETA: This pattern gets a thumbs up from me!