3193

KS 3193 Third Try

I’m convinced that this pattern needs only a little tweaking to be a nice jean.  But I don’t make any changes. That’s important.  After my last goof, I retraced the back yoke, lined it up carefully and trimmed at those places which need to be trimmed. On the back yoke that was only one point with at most a 1/8″ sliver trimmed.

Then I chose my fabric. Because this will be wearable, I want a nice fabric. I chose a corded fabric. Not corduroy, but a light weight fabric in which the warp is heavier than the weft. This creates a corded effect. It is a very stable fabric, another important fact to keep in mind.

I also decided, since these were so close to being fitted, to do something experimental.  I’ve had a package of double-eye needles for a long time.  This is not two needles connected together, but one needle with two eyes, one eye above the other on the same shaft.  Most of the time you can simply place two threads through a single needle eye to make a more pronounced top stitching.  With the double-eye needle you have more control of how the threads are stitched.  It opens up possibilities for color control, but this time I just wanted to see how it worked. I threaded both needles with the same Gutterman thread, chose a single stitch with a 4.0 length. I used this for all my topstitching. Let me show the back pants pocket to illustrate:

The double-eye needle does make a very nice topstitching with regular sewing thread. I had to slow down my stitching or the threads would loop becoming messy.  I was using a size 12 universal.  I might not have had the looping issue if I’d used a larger needle (14 or 16) or used a sharp.  I’m pleased with the outcome. But not sure if I’d want to do this again.  The looping was a headache causing me to stop and rip out. But stitching a straight stitch was faster than the double stitch that I normally use.  Both produce an excellent top stitching, double-eye is faster, double stitch trouble-free.

First I labeled the ends of the yoke and carefully matched. To my utter surprise I have the same final issues, the worst being the peak at the center back:
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Which causes a bubble under the waistband when attached to the waistband:

I note that the back is buckling almost the entire length between knee and waistband. Like the distance is too long. except then I see the crotch trying to climb even higher which tells me there isn’t enough width-wise ease. The torso is too tight.  Why?  Other than the retraced yoke, the pattern tissue is exactly the same.  Both the Red Linen and the Blue Broadcloth versions had sufficient ease. The front and the side are supporting the too tight, or too little ease conclusion.
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But, I’ll say it again, both previous versions had more than enough ease.

I’ve stopped on these. I”m not sure I’m even going to finish them.  I think the fabric is the biggest issue.  I noted that it was a very stable fabric but i also wonder if it is continuing to shrink every time I blast it with steam. Which honestly hasn’t been that much.  I pressed with steam before cutting out the fabric. Since cutting it has been pressed at the zipper application; the  pocket application and before try-on all seams were pressed.  It’s not as if I’ve stood at the ironing board and bore down for minutes at a time with steam. I’m talking quick puffs, up and down motion and just before try-on smoothing the entire pant.

But the peak at the center back has me stumped.  I don’t remember this issue with the first pair (the Red Linen) and find it hard to believe that the slivers I removed could have caused this much error.  I have decided I need to compare the tissue with the master pattern and ensure that is true.

But it will be a few days….  My Inktense supplies have arrived and I will be working  on that project for a few days. Also I’ve finally joined the throngs of Style Arc fans and ordered my first 3 Style Arc patterns.  I ordered the Willow and Audrey pants; Annie’s Cammie and of course the freebie for May, the Ada Knit top. For some reason, my shipping was only $20, total is $60 which averages to $15 each and is comparable to US Indy patterns with shipping.

3193

KS 3193

I liked the Red Linen KS3193’s so well I decided to finesse the pattern a little.  The waist was too big while the abdomen a bit close. Besides, I miss the little things that TJ906 incorporates.  That pattern and Jalie 2908 almost sew themselves.  The seams have all been walked so that they match exactly. Also the ends are trimmed so that they match perfectly during sewing. That means a little awkward trimming during cutting which can feel senseless.  I find that I’m cutting little wedges off the pointy ends. But when I get to the serger and sewing machines, those wedges make the yokes, fronts and backs match up perfectly.  So I carefully pinned together and walked the pieces of KS3193. I trimmed the ends and where the yokes and back pant crotch meet I trued that curve.

Knowing that the previous version fit very nicely, I chose an equally nice fabric for the second version.   I need long pants to protect me from the summer sun. But I need the long pants to be comfortably cool in the summer heat.   I chose a cotton broadcloth.  I like cotton broadcloth for summer shorts and winter blouses. I’m still testing this pattern so I thought testing this fabric would be a good idea.  I do think there is a tiny bit of polyester or some other man-made fiber incorporated into this broadcloth but not enough to change the feel from cotton and not enough to prevent wrinkles.  I’m not sure how good of a choice this is for long pants. If it is too wrinkly or too warm, I may very well rehem at a much higher level.
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I took my time constructing and top stitching front and back pockets.  I also top stitched the waistband and yokes. But the side seams stopped me cold.  Front and back were not the same length.    I had trimmed the waistline by about 3/8″ on the front only.  I rechecked the pattern pieces and the side seams should have matched.  The inseams matched, so I sewed both inseam and side seams and trimmed the excess at the hem. The I stitched the crotch together and gave it a shot of steam before adding the waistband.  To my surprise, the back yoke peaked something fierce.  I puzzled this out for about 10 minutes before realizing that I had sewn the yokes to the pant back in reverse. I mean what should have been the crotch was sewn to the side and what should have been the side was sewn to crotch. Oh and I broke my “baste it al together first” rule, these pieces were all serged and the yokes topstitched.  What did I do?  I trimmed the peak and eased the pant waist to the waistband.  Strangely, the pant feels and looks fine.  I do see some pulling at the waist, like I don’t have the side seam correctly aligned on the waistband.  Fortunately that will be covered up by my tops. Even stranger, the front and side pics turn out pretty good.  The back pic, taken first, is dark but when lightened is washed out and unviewable.
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But now I don’t know if this is a TNT.  I don’t know if I’ve solved the major problems and I need to make another pair correctly this time.

3193

Kwik Sew 3193

originally published 5/1/12

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I’m calling the ()neSeams a success.  I may want to tweak the amount of ease or even change the elastic waist for a zippered and trimmer silhouette. But by far, I’m happier with this iteration than any previous.

So much so that I proceeded to Kwik Sew 3193: Photobucket If ever there was a mom jean, this is it. Photobucket The straight waistband and extra ease across the back thigh are dead giveaways. Not all is lost.  The waistband keeps my pants up. I do not notice the bulge at the knees I was seeing in the last ()neSeams. Also I notice that when I sit, that excess ease is taken up by my thighs. Photobucket My fabric is 100% linen in a coral-red.  I love linen especially for summer. It’s one downfall is that it continues to shrink with each laundering which in my case is with each wearing.  IMO anything riding in the hoo-hoo area needs to be cleaned after each wearing. Photobucket Basically, I unfolded the master pattern and stacked the crotch from TJ906 on top aligning grain lines. I did note that the back crotch slope is very similar between the two patterns and the grain line exactly the same. I traced the crotch from TJ906 and all the other lines from KS3193. So it’s KS3193 with TJ906 crotch. Make sense? Oh wait, I did change the length. TJ906 is already the perfect length. I didn’t see the point in making the pattern 4″ too long just to cut it off a few minutes later.  I copied the width of the KS3193 waistband, but marked the length and side seams according to my JSM waistband. OK so now we’ve got a KS3193 pant with a TJ906 crotch and JSM waistband. Photobucket My one issue is not with the crotch but with the abdomen which then affect the waist.  I needed to let the side seams out 1/4″ on both sides at the abdomen.  This gave me far too much ease in the waist. I’m also the one who likes a closer fit waist.  I did the Nancy Erickson trick of easing the pant waist to the waistband. Interestingly, from centerback to side seam corresponded, all the excess waist-ease was in the front. It’s really kind of crinkled in the front. Photobucket I skipped the pockets during cutting.  At that point I wasn’t sure this would be successful.  I’d made this pant before. In fact I’d made several of this pant before.  I loved how it felt and looked except for the back thigh.  I could never get rid of those diagonal lines.  It was my insecurity in this area that justified the choice of the linen fabric. I felt like if I couldn’t fix the diagonal wrinkles at least I wouldn’t have to wear the finished pant for too long.  After the first fitting I scrambled to make this pair just a little more fashionable. I didn’t want to do very much because, I’m not expecting more than 3 wearings. So I cut the back pockets and did some rather plain top stitching. Photobucket Verdict is, I like these mom jeans and I’m very glad to have found my fit answer.  One sec, I know that it’s not enough to just transfer the crotch shape from one pattern to another. I have tried that in the past without any success. The truth of the matter is, these two patterns TJ906 and KS3193 were similar to start with. It was changing to a waistband which fits and a crotch shape which works that made this version successful. Most interesting was that in previous versions of KS3193 I had shortened the front crotch length, deepened the back crotch length, removed several wedges from under the seat and even done a flat seat adjustment.  That was all replaced with a single elegant solution of a deep fish-hook crotch. Photobucket

I think they pass the bank-line test.