I have been thinking about Muslin 2 ever since I posted Muslin 1. I had a couple of “wants” to work through. I wanted to make a full length leg. I wanted a a hem circumference with a maximum of 20 inches. Also thought I should attempt a knock knee alteration again. (Again? It has been years since I tried unsuccessfully to make a knock-knee alteration in order to correct the diagonals below the knee.)Id think about it and decide to narrow the leg at the same time as I length it. Then decide no just make as is to confirm that all the adjustments I made are correct. Then I’d decide to boldly make that leg the max width I want it at the time time. I’d also decide to make the knock knee adjustment and then talk myself out of it. I can have a beautifully fitting leg and mess it up by trying to reduce the width of the leg. I went back and forth in my mind. I wanted to leap to the perfect leg but feared making all the changes at once would be a disaster. A critical point for me was needing to be sure the alterations already made were correct. I’ve had numerous fitting muslins that looked great. Make them in real fabric and they look like crap. I hadn’t made that many changes to get Muslin 1 fit, so should I worry about that or not? I decided to proceed according to my analytical nature with is One Change At A Time.
I copied the original and put it away in case I needed it in the future. Then I made the fitting changes to the new full-leg pattern:
- Reduce the rise
- 1/2″ back and sides
- 1/4″ front
- Scoop and lower back crotch 1″
- Add 19″ for full length leg (I’m a shorty)
- Add 2″ ease to front and back side seams
- This should be too
- Add darts
- Create a straight waistband
- 3.5″ wide by 24″ long
- With 1/4″ SA for center back (when desired)
- Mark side seam and Front Fly
My biggest worry is that the fitting changes I made will not be right, so I stopped here but did contemplated the knee and hem circumference. As the pattern is now, it will finish at 29″. A far cry from my acceptable 20″ and no where near the desired 17-18″. In order to reach my goal (20″) I will need to trim off 9″. Not even sure it will be possible to make that big of a change.
I turned to look at fabric. I have another possible muslin fabric. But I think this pair could be wearable especially if I can be satisfied with more than a 20″ hem circumference. So I leave the muslin fabric on the shelf and study my “real” pant fabrics. I very much want another pair of brown pants. So now I’m looking at a much smaller selection. I want a non-stretch fabric. I want a fabric I can wear in the house without needing long johns underneath. Boy that narrows the choices. I guess my destashing habits are having an effect! My final selection is a 100% cotton flannel-suiting with subtle herringbone weave. Purchased from fabricmartfabrics.com I’d estimate between 1 and 2 years ago. It is such a nice fabric, I’m surprised it has sat in the stash this long.
I give it a long loving press. Layout my new pattern pieces and places weights on top before snapping out the lights and going upstairs. Enough for one day.