12% Jinni

Title a little confusing?  Sorry, I wanted a easy title I could search for.   What I mean is that I’m using the Jinni pant pattern again but with a 12% stretch fabric.  Don’t know fiber content, Ive lost the label .  I know that it drapes nicely like the Fine Line Twill used in the previous Jinni and it is blue.  Why is blue important? Last year I ran into a problem of looking in my closet and seeing brown bottoms but blue or black tops. Seems I had consistently chosen brown fabric to sew into pants while choosing black or blue for tops!   That is a wardrobe error I dont wish to repeat, so I am deliberately rotating between my major colors (black, blue, brown). When finished, the Fine Line Twill pants fit beautifully. But I felt uneasy about some of the fitting changes I made.  I wanted to sew a similar fabric to check that those changes applied all the time an were not just tweaks for the Fine Line Twill fabric.

After choosing my fabric, I decided to reduce the hem circumference in addition to the other changes I made to the tissue after the previous pair.  I am anxious not to ruin a good pant pattern so I copied the previous tissue and then marked a 1/2″ reduction on both inseam and side seam.

I trimmed tissues and then walked the seams. Was not  surprised to find the back side seam 1/4” longer than the front. I had seen that on the Fine Line twill as well but didn’t want to make a change until I could verify the tissue was incorrect.  After that, I pressed my fabric, laid it out on the cutting table and placed the tissue on top. As is my habit,  I turned off the lights and left the room. Id love to start cutting immediately but experience tells me to take a break and see if I remember something else I should do or if I have done something wrong now.

Next day I cut the fabric, serged the edges and put the zipper in. Then I loaded the water-soluble thread bobbin to baste darts, side and inseams before basting the waistband. I slipped the basted pants on for the first fitting. Not surprisingly, the crotch hung too low. Just as the muslin and Caramel pants,  fitting this navy pinstripe was all about depth and waist-adjustments.  I am not sure I can totally eliminate these factors. So far, each fabric has needed a different  adjustments. I’ll take the hit for the waist adjustments.  I have marked my waistband but don’t believe the marking when I start the next pant.  Quite probably, if I would just honor my own findings about the waistband and waist adjustments, fitting could be a little faster. The depth adjustments are really curious. The muslin (broadcloth) with ZERO stretch either cross or lengthwise needed a -2.75 depth change to the front; -3.5″ on the sides and none/ZERO  at the center back.  The Caramel Pants (Fine Line Twill) with 10% cross wise stretch needed -2″ on the front and sides but – 3″ at center back. This  Navy Pinstripe (content unk) 12% cross and 1% length wise requires depth adjustments of -1.75 in Front and sides and -2.75 center back.  Ah, if only I used the same fabric over and over again. But I can’t even buy the same fabric over and over It was a real hunt to find similar stretch and drape in that embarrassingly large  collection of pant fabric I have downstairs.

To my delight, I was finished with 2 fittings. TWO.  Never happens for me with pants. Never that I remember. I’ve lightened the pics considerably so we can see the draglines. Oh and keep in mind, I’ve altered these into trousers even though I wanted slacks.

To  me what really counts, is how I look in the bank line:

Front view should be titled “when the flash catches you in the middle of your “cheese”.

Also I will be glad when my hair grows out enough I don’t feel the need to wear my wig.