Eureka Pant

EurekaX: Fitting Muslin 01

WARNING:  Overloaded with pics.  This is the detailed journal/post of my latest attempt to fit the Eureka. 

Muslin 01: Fitting Size Large with Back 3

Fit 01

I had forgotten about curvature built into the side of this pattern.  I am pretty straight along my sides.  It is my front and back that have all the curves. Consequently, if I make this pant as drafted I will have a jodphur-look or as I like to call it M!ckey Mouse ears.  I do not pin out the side curve right now. From experience I know I am quite likely to change the crotch. When I do the whole upper torso changes slightly  and will shift the curve’s position. So, if I pin out now, I  will be changing it later.  Rightnow, I look at the collapsing sides and say “I’ll get back to this”

I clearly saw the front chevroning in the mirror when I adjust the muslin to sit on my body comfortably.  Suspected and now confirmed are the back chevrons.  The side HBL’s are fairly straight. Any slanting could be due to my photo abilities rather than a fitting discrepancy.  It is the front and back HBLS which need attention. I don’t recall the front chevroning during my fitting earlier this year. But I can’t trust my recall.  I definitely had issues from Chemo Brain.  What I do remember clearly, is I was never able to completely remove the back chevron using the instructions which accompanied the tissue pattern. My Kessinger fitting is coming along nicely — still room for improvement– and the 906 has definitely produced very-good versions.  So I wouldn’t attempt fitting this pant again at least this quickly except for the new understanding and knowledge I derived from Sarah Veblems Fun with Fit: Pants online class.  According to that, I need to work on fixing the back chevron’s first through a combination of scooping and lowering the back crotch.

Fit02

So you’re supposed to view the HBLs and thn reach around to the back and pinch until they are horizontal and the grain lines vertical. I didn’t do well with that procedure.  I got uneven bunches. I think my arms must be a tad short.  I decided that since I normally lower the crotch 1/2″ and scoop 1/2″, I would try altering the back crotch by those amounts.  I sort of followed Sarah’s procedure to transfer draping changes to the pattern.  I got my back pattern piece out. Drew in the seam allowances along curve and inseam before drawing the horizontal line at the base of the crotch and the vertical line descending from the waist. Apologize that the pics are not that easy to see.  Blue dashes designate the original stitching line.  Brown lines are the horizontal and vertical just drawn. Next was ticking in 1/2″ below the crotch and 1/2″ in the back of the crotch.  I drew new lines as Sarah demonstrates and used my curve to copy the original curve. Finally establishing the new cutting line in purple ink.

Up to this point in time, I have always needed to lower the crotch. Scooping was never enough.  I felt a bit experimental today and decided to first test simply lowering the crotch.   I sliced along the new cutting line but only up to the point where a scoop would start taking effect. I didn’t trim away the slice, I am not sure my assumption is correct. I pinned the little slice of tissue into the interior of the tissue thigh area and left it dangling there while I operated on the muslin.

I love Sarah’s process for making these changes. I aligned the tissue on top the muslin using the Grain and HBL’s. Just like Sarah demos except I didn’t have draping to transfer to my tissue. I marked my new cutting line on the muslin then gave it  a quick trim followed by stitching the new lowered crotch. And the results:

Well they did feel more comfortable, even if they don’t look much better.  The real questions are have the HBL’s and horizontal folds of Fit01 improved?

Comparing Fit01(left) with  Fit02(right)

Not really.  Also, I expected the center back to rise more. I expected some improvement in the chevroning of the HBLs. Not that I can tell.

BTW, that comfort factor?  It’s the first thing I always notice when I am on the right track. As garment fit improves, I always feel more comfortable in the garment.

Interesting to me, the muslin looks a little tight on my butt when looking straight on and feels close. However the side view says it is fine.

I mean, it is a slack and should cup just a little under the seat. Maybe I havent worn a slack in so long I don’t remember how they should fit?

Fit03

This summer, fitting pants has involved adding length to the front crotch. I found this out the hard way.  I added and added and added to the back crotch. No joy.  The front would pull the  back  forward and through the crotch.  I would accumulate more and more height at the waist front while the back continued to dip and really look like a mess.  After adding 4″ to the back, I tried adding to the front crotch. Problem solved.  I had this in mind and was glad it would be easy to test because I added 1/2″ seam allowance depth to the inseams. I ripped open the crotch and down the thigh 9″. Sigh, for years and years I’ve always had a thigh gap.  Didn’t matter how much I weighed, I had air between my thighs.  Now when I stand with knees touching, thighs touch–all the way to the knee.  Thinking I could use a little ease in the thigh area was the reason for ripping down 9″. Oh how easy it was to align the two edges.The gradual slope made it so easy to determine the stitching path..  But did it help?

Pretty sure that’s a big negatory on the front.  I have deep diagonals pointing to the middle of the thigh and poofiness in the  Venus area; and the HBL’s are not improved one bit.

Fit04

I trimmed away the rest of the tissue modified before lowering the crotch (Fit 02)l repositioned the tissue and completed the combination scooping and lowering of the back crotch. Since adding to the front crotch didn’t improve the fit at all, I restored the previous seam line and then took pics. At this juncture the back has been scooped 1/2″ and lowered 1/2″

Talk about comfort level, way up IMMEDIATELY! The HBL’s are still dipping. I am reluctant to be highly critical of the plumb of the  grain lines because of how I stand (legs apart) for these pics. Also, I have picture taking issues.  My pics always have to rotated at least a few degrees to look upright.  So, taking it all with a grain of salt, it looks to me like the grain lines angle out rather than bow out.  If they bowed, they would bend back towards the inseam instead of continuing unabated along the same angle. In which case, more scooping is prescribed

The back thigh, while definitely improved, has   a big diagonal accompanied by  a smaller diagonal extending from the 3rd HBL towards mid-thigh. There is some horizontal buckling a little lower but I think that’s just the result of a hot, sticky day.  I’ll have to watch and see if the issue continues.

I am feeling happy, especially when I see the near perfect side HBL’s

(umm, my pic flash and color can be unreliable).

and the front

while sporting some excess skirting has finally improved!    In the mirror the HBL’s did not dip. By the time I walked to my pic taking position, the front rearranged.  I am wondering if I need more ease across front hip and tummy or if I just need a little more length in the back crotch.  Well, there’s one easy way to find out.

 

Fit05

Since I’d already added the 1/2″ SA depth to the inseams, it was beyond easy to offset  front from back inseam to extend the back crotch length.  Procedure was very similar to when I added to the front crotch length and does not need to be repeated. Also, I’d rather you watch Sarah Veblums videos.  Sarah does an excellent job demoing this procedure.  Much better than I.

Well this feels crazy. The HBL’s are dipping and the diagonals are still there. I thought scooping and extending the crotch point both had the effect of adding to the total back fork length. I thought they were interchangeable except for where extra fabric would be needed.  I’ve added 1/2″ more to the point, why doesn’t that help as much as the scoop?

And look at this crazy front:

I’d rather wear the front from the very first photo shoot! HBL’s are dipping a lot, plus there are diagonals and weird drag lines from crotch to tummy. It is slipping during modeling.  I place the front HBL’s level/horizontal in the mirror. Walk to my photo–shoot place and take a pic.  Somewhere in between, and not noticed by me, the front slips  a little.  I wonder if that would be corrected by adding a WB? I fought a1.5″ wide elastic WB for weeks. It had the same unstability making fit a nightmare. Now I am pulling the pant up and expecting it to stay in the same place by tying  a 3/8″ elastic at my waist. Not sure this will ever really work.

The front looked better in the very first fitting:

Fit06

I thought  it odd,  that adding to the back fork length didn’t help.  Since scooping and lowering in combination did, that was my alteration here.  I scooped and lowered another 1/4″.  So in this pic the total amount scooped is 3/4″ scoop and 3/4″ lowering. Also, since adding length at the point didn’t have any effect,  I restored the inseam SA’s to their default depth.

I don’t see much of an improvement from Fit01. When when I compare with the previous fit session, I am not sure the additional 1/4″ did anything at all.  Both pairs of  2 diagonals extending from hip to midthigh are still quite prominent.  and the chevroning hasn’t budged. TBH, I’d ignore the stubbornly persistent HBL chevroning, if the back diagonals would lessen greatly or go away.

I expected for this scoop to make the back hip too tight.

But the side view, says circumference at hip is still fine.  I do want the slack fit which will include a little cupping.  Well good news and considering my photo skills,  the side-HBLs are once again near perfect.

The front

surprises me more than the back.  With that 3/4″x3/4″” lowered and scooped crotch,  the front HBLs are nearly horizontal. But, eeh gads, I had to pull them up pretty firmly and I am feeling tightness across my front thigh which is supposed to indicate a too low crotch.   Still this front is almost, I stress, almost wearable. The front HBLS are pretty level and the grain line pretty straight. It is the circled area that has me most perplexed:

Sarah mentions several times both in the videos and the discussion that one way to determine what is happening is to turn the pant inside out and place one leg within the other.  You then step into the leg and observe how the crotch is conforming to the body. For what it is worth, and sharing my post-chemo belly,  I took a pic:

Then carefully pinned around the front crotch–something I was not able to do with the back.  –I think I am “jumping the gun” here.  Sarah stresses over and over:  fix the back HBLs and grain first. But it is the end of 5 long-hot fitting sessions. I am tired of little progress.  I want to see change! I pinned and found that the crotch is snugging as it should but then a fold about 3/8″ thick (total 3/4″) is forming along the  crotch and inseam. What does that mean? Do I have too much front crotch length?

I love the class and videos, but when looking for a specific solution they are a PITA in which to search for answers. I keep mentally holding onto the new-to-me info.  Which was back chevroning and diagonals means scoop; and a big belly like mine is going to need additional front crotch length.

Fit07

I scoop one more time but do not lower.  Remember way back when I added 1/2″ to the back side seam?  I nearly always need more fabric to cover my seat.  I often explain to people that I am deeper than I am wide. If you drop a vertical dividing my side you’ll see that my tush sticks out further than my tummy. IOW, I have more to seat to cover than tummy–even though that’s now quite a bit of tummy.

It is a disgusting repeat.  Both front and back HBL’s are dipping the same amount as at the first fitting.  I have now scooped 1.25″ and lower 3/4″.  The front has gotten worse.  I shake my head echoing the disgust I feel.   Even with new understanding, I still cannot fit this pant which once fit practically out of the envelope in a size medium.  No wonder fat people tend to hate themselves. The failure can be overwhelming.

FIT 08

Figuring it cant be any worse if I lower the crotch, yet again.  I lowered it another 1/2″.  At this point I have scooped 1.25″ and lowered 1.25″.  Did it help?

Not with the HBL’s.  The diagonals in back ar less prominent, an improvement. The front really has a skirting issue i.e. lots of skirting at the hip joint.  Looks kind of poofy. Not a look I really want to wear. Maybe it would look better in a pant fabric?  I am using a 100% cotton. It’s a home dec fabric which doesn’t have any stretch (required for muslins). But it isn’t something I would wear as a pant.

 

I take a break.  For one thing, I am again at this place where I don’t know what to do next.  I think a 1.25″x1.25″ scoop and lower is extreme.  I think it pointless to continue the same scooping and lowering when not seeing any improvement or as here the front is worse. There is an old saying “If you always do what you always did, you’ll always get what you always got.”  I found that saying to be spot on.  If I want to see different results, I need to do something different. But what?    I wonder about going up a size. The  very first Eureka I  made several years ago, practically fit right out of the envelope? Well it did after I changed from a Back 2 to the Back 3.Going up a size could be a possible change, except  the size I am using (a Large + Back 3)  is the largest in my envelope.  Sigh, it is the only new thing I can think of doing.  I have ordered the next range, from PR.  Should have it in a few days for comparing, tracing and Muslin2.  I also posted on PR hoping that Sarah will come through in a few days give me some pointers.  In the meantime, there’s always other sewing I want to do.

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1 thought on “EurekaX: Fitting Muslin 01”

  1. You certainly get an A+ in the “patience” department. I hope the new pattern coming soon helps sole some of your issues, and I also hope that Sarah will respond to you!

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