Eureka Pant

EurekaX: Measurements, Tracing, Initial Adjustments

One important caveat on this fitting session.  I have found some light weight support panties that I love.  They have a leg about 2″ and extend all the way up to my bra band. They support my tummy making  separate abdominal able support unneeded. It’s nice to need one less accoutrement in the summer.  So far, they are light enough that over heating has not been an issue. Probably won’t want to wear them if we hit 100 deg temps. In addition to the abdominal support and smoothing the entire torso, they give me an actual waist!  Haven’t seen one of those in months. But it is important to note that without these, any fitting I do on the Eureka will most likely be invalidated.  IOW pants worn with the support panties won’t fit, look or feel the same as pants worn with.  It’s a trade off.  During fitting, I will make it a point to wear them every day.

MEASUREMENTS:

Even though I had just taken full measurements a month ago and spot checked them since then, I remeasured the critical Waist/Tummy/Hip.  Full disclosure in the table below.

My Body Measurements//// Plus 2″ Ease////Size According to Body measurement////// Size Chosen by Added eEse.

BODY Plus 2″ EASE SIZE by BODY SIZE by EASE
Waist 40 42
Tummy 46 48 L M w/Back 3
Hip 48 50 XL L w/Back 3

SIZE:

I opted to trace the Size L with Back 3. Following Sarah’s instructions, I traced front and back the same size (L) even though in the past I have needed a smaller front. I knew from before that I needed Back 3. Back 3 has always been the key to fitting the Eureka. I was pleased with the entire video about Fitting the Round Derriere and the next one on Fitting the Generous Derriere. Found my own derriere in the Generous class. This class definitely explains why I have always gone up one size to get enough seating room.

TISSUE ADJUSTMENTS

This is not my first go around with this pattern.  I know, without question that I end up making the same adjustment — perhaps in different amounts each time–but the same adjustments over and over.  I doubt that some things about my body are going to change.  Such as I am 5’3″. Patterns are developed for the 5″5-6 woman.  Patterns, this one included, always have too much length.  I can spend time and effort rediscovering the differences  or I can skip to what I know. I did the later.

I folded out 1″ above the top HBL to remove -1″ crotch depth.  I may later remove a 2nd inch but for now this gives me some fabric to put and hold under the elastic until I can rework the back crotch.  I also folded out 1″ length about the Knee.

This of course makes some jogs at these points.  I used my Fashion Ruler to smooth out the jogs.

Next up, I know I want  to add some fit insurance in a few places. Sarah says nothing about this. Before I even cut fabric, I know that I will be lowering and scooping the back crotch as well as fiddling with the front crotch.  If I don’t add the fit insurance now, I will be taping bits to my tissue and making a 2nd muslin in a very short time.  My fit insurance is an additional 1/2″ added to the inseams of both front and back and 1/2″ added to the side seam of only the back.  I traced the pattern in blue. Now I added my fit insurance in RED:

One thing I did, which Sarah says not to to do is add the front fly.

She’s right that it makes for excess bulk. One of the things I struggled with on the 906 Ponte Shorts were those friggin’ huge seam allowances. I real PITA. But I know I will want the fly later when I start sewing real pants. For fitting, I want to pin the pant together at the center front, which I can manage, rather than pin the CB seam, which I will mangle.

The pattern is still rough cut i.e. not to it’s final dimensions when I pin at the HBLS and carefully walk seams adding and removing pins as needed. Sarah does an excellent job of demonstrating this.  I have one additional wrinkle in the process.  Although my inseams are the same width, my side seams will not be.  I added 1/2″ to the back side seam. So when I walked the side seams, I placed the front side seam on top and aligned with the original cutting line.

I’m always amazed at the inaccuracies that appear even though I carefully traced and carefully made adjustments.  Not bad this time.  I trimmed 1/8″ from the leg length at the front hem and again about 1/8″ length at the front side waist.

Now I trim carefully to the final dimensions and I clip each end of the grain and HBL lines.

 

I am ready for my first muslin.  I select a recent garage sale find. It is an upholstery cotton with the always-missing-from-my-stash, non-stretch feature. I prefer wearing pants of nice denim or woven with a tiny bit of stretch and that is what I buy.  I will probably need to repeat this fitting process for knits at some point because I do wear knits too.  My fabric is a bright print that I thought of using for a blouse. When I picked it up I thought I had 3-4 yards of 36-40″ wide fabric.  When I pre-washed I discovered I had 7 yards of 42″ fabric. I will never use that much for blouses though I do still intend to make a blouse.  It presses easily.  For the muslin, the pretty right side of the fabric will become the inside. The plainer/duller reverse will be fine for all the fitting marks I will need. Before, laying out my pattern pieces, I pin up  the hem on the tissue A hem is not necessary on a muslin and  I just don’t want to fuss with a hem that keeps falls down as  Sarah did during the demo.   I cut around the pattern pieces; then transfer the grainline, HBLS and knee line in red Sharpie. I want to see these lines in the pics I plan to take.

I decide I want a visual reminder of the Fit Insurance I added.  I stitch along the the added SA line and the crotch stitching lines.  I look at the crotch and decide “Nah, I’m not doing all that clipping.”  Hope this isn’t a mistake.  I trimmed 1/4″ from the crotch to have a 3/8″ SA.  This is my standard.  You wouldn’t believe the number of times in recent months I’ve been working with the default 5/8″, that I’ve stitched at  3/8″.  That 1/4″ can really make a difference. I find that the 3/8″ crotch SA easily bends around my body. I have yet to have a fitting or sewing issues due to the 3/8″ SA.  There could be a first time. For now, I am accommodating my Chemo Brain and do things “normal” when I can.

I stitch the fronts and back together after carefully pinning at the HBLS and paying attention to my change seam allowances. Finally 2 hours after I begin, I am ready for pics of my first fitting.

I stress that the time needed is all self-inflicted.  Should you simply measure, select and trace size and start cutting fabric, you’d be at this point far sooner than I.

Now I slipped the muslin on; pulled it up comfortably. Established a temporary waist by tying with 3/8″ elastic — I didn’t have the recommended 1/4″– at my natural waist and then bending side to side.

 

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