*** All pics in order left to right Fit 01 through Fit 06 ******
So this was a series of tweak, tweak, tweak. In the end is not wearable but is very informative.
I made only 6 fittings which really didn’t seem like many or that much effort because each fitting was quick and I made small changes. Nothing big. Nothing very involved.
To my surprise at Fit01 the front crotch was not too short!
I added 1.25″ to the tissue’s front crotch length. I reduced that length during the the first 3 fittings until only 1/4″ remained. 1/4″ more than Halston drafted. The front crotch looked and felt comfortable throughout the remaining fittings with no further adjustments.
At the same time I was reducing the front crotch length, I was adding to the back crotch 1/2″; then 1″ to the upright and again 1/2″ and 1″ to the extension. I added strips of fabric at the waist both the top of CB and at the inseam along on each back thigh. I started with enough fabric for the CB additions and was able to tweak the CB length easily through the following fittings. The crotch extension was a different story. I made the 1/2″ addition. Not easily but at least it looked good and did not noticeably change the crotch shape. The second addition went wrong. I did not get 1″ evenly added to both inseam which is obvious in the pics and BTW felt wrong during the last fitting. Even so, I think an additional 1″ at CB top and 1″ in the extension is the right decision. While the crotch didn’t feel perfect, it felt better with every change AND, very importantly to me, the waistline appears pretty level front, back and sides.
When viewing the pics above, do allow for the fact nearly all cameras introduce a slight fish-bowl effect. In these pics that could mean the sides could appear to be a little higher than CF or CB. As far as I know, it takes a very expensive camera to completely overcome that tendency. So when I get close, I call it good.
The next issue I dealt with was the uneven side seam lengths.
For the first fitting I eased one side and offset the other i.e. on one side I stretched the side seams to match on the other I placed the back side seam 1/2″ lower than the front side seam. I couldn’t tell any difference. So Fit 02, I eased-made both sides, all pieces to the same length. Oh my! It was obvious that wasn’t right. The front side seam ruched or gathered to the back side seam. At the same time I added the strip so I could add length to the CB crotch, I made it long/wide enough so I could add 1/2″ on both back side seams. Surprisingly, the back still ruched. I don’t know why but it did. Next fitting (Fit 04) I made the back side seams 1″ longer than originally cut. Smack my head, now the back ruched. Final fit, I made the back side seams 7/8″ longer than the original. Which mostly worked?? The left side seam looks really good. But the right is still ruching a little. I am assuming that, as with the crotch extension, I did not get lengths the same on both sides.
I struggled with the leg length. I do love having a 16″ hem circumference; but, throughout the first 5 fittings the legs would buckle and stack. On fit 4, I opened a 4″ vent which helped, but not until I basted the hem twice as deep as the original, did the legs hang smoothly. If I were younger, this would not be an issue. They don’t mind a little slop in the lower leg. I feel differently which means I have some decisions to make. I can eliminate the slop by increasing the hem circumference to at least 18″. I could do a combination of increasing the hem circumference to 17″ and making a deeper hem (making the leg shorter). I could keep the 16″ hem circumference and find a corresponding leg length (I think 2″ shorter). It’s something to consider. I could always decide to embrace the slop.
Finally, as seen in the crotch pics above, and to my utter shock, this torso had too much ease. Deep vertical folds developed on both front and back between the waistband and the knee. The waistband of the pant is adjusted through the WB elastic. So no matter how much fabric is wrapped around the waist, the waistband fits. Between knee and hem are drafted for a slender leg and just what I was looking for. The torso is a different story. It had the ease of a pleated trouser, which is was not. It was a a slack. I could settle for a pleated trouser. In fact, I won’t trash this tissue just in case I want that option in the future. ATM, I’m really wanting a slim fitting slack. Not close fitting. Not trouser fit. But slim; sliding past all the curves but not flaring on the way to the hem. I have the ease worked out -almost- through a combination of offsetting the back side seam a 1/2″ away from the front side seam; and increasing the side seam depth until it was 1-1/4″ at the deepest on the back pieces. (that would be 1-3/4″ on front). The seam allowance is variable i.e.not an even depth from waist to hem. At the waist it is only 1/2″ on front, 1″ on the back. At the knee it returns to 1/2″ both front and back. In between it increases and decreases in depth to remove ease as I desired.
This changes wil be interesting to transfer to the tissue. For transfer I must. I was far too optimistic when tracing and making this first muslin. The narrower seam allowances are already fraying and as I said, I did not sew the last crotch extensions evenly. I think I’m at the point of needing a new muslin. May as well make a new tissue too with known changes. While I’m at it, I did not like the method I used for adding the back dart. I think I added unneeded ease across the back torso and thigh. Now seems like a good time to try another solution.
The final fit:
Not perfect but on the way to being much better. I’m not upset or even dismayed. I’m not ready to throw in the towel. Feel no need to curse or howl at the moon. I had hoped I would be further along but it was obvious to me during fitting I had some work to do. Muslin 1, last fitting is much nicer than the first fitting and a lot nicer than some of my other recent muslins.
As always, it is too d@mn bad fitting pants is so hard, because sewing them is a snap.