V1411: Behind The Scene: Releasing the Leg Seams

I think I may be making a few posts along this line as I am figure out what went wrong  with V1411 i.e. how could it look so good in Muslin 3 with the Top Of Inseam Dart but so bad when the same was incorporated into the pattern:

So I let Grey sit in the closet for a few days whilst thinking about the obviously lack of total ease. Yeah, even though I’m showing the backs for comparison, the Grey’s front was too tight.  Letting out the side seams had made both front and back look and feel a little better but there wasn’t enough improvement.  I was contemplating opening up the side seam and adding a strip of fabric; perhaps doing something decorative with the strip when I started wondering, did I have a side seam issue or an inseam?   I mean all the pulls came from the inseam. Mostly the appear horizontal (not enough ease) with few pointing towards the knees; none exactly to the crotch; and -what caught my eye- none reach the side seam. I’m of the opinion that changes need to be made close to where they occur.  I acknowledge that may not be true 100% of the time, but I prefer to start by adjusting the garment where the wrinkles appear. So should I be adding a strip to the inseam instead of the side seam?

I decided to release the side seam of the left leg and the inseam of the right leg, in turn at the calf, knee and thigh. I thought I would be checking to see if the issue was at the any or all of these places and if it was an inseam or side seam issue.  First I ripped out next to the calves:

Seeing little or no improvement, I left about an inch of seam intact and ripped out about the knee:

Maybe the tiniest improvement, maybe not so let out the thigh area:

Huh. And a 2nd Huh. Removing the stitching allowed the seam to pull apart as much as needed.  It’s like adding unlimited ease. IMO, unlimited leg ease, didn’t lessen let alone eliminate the back wrinkles. The front has in fact gained a few. Not what I had in mind. <shakes head> Nope, not what I had in mind, at all.


2 thoughts on “V1411: Behind The Scene: Releasing the Leg Seams”

  1. Bev, I admire your dedication to this cause. I’ve found this post https://mellysews.com/2018/07/how-to-fit-pants-when-sewing-pants-fitting-issues.html#comment-313653 and the pictures on it really helpful. Have a look at Melly’s picture of the add to crotch point situation, and see what you think. This post has given me confidence to add really a large amount to the crotch points, whereas before I tended to think “I’ve added 8cm already, so that can’t be the problem”).

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