3218: III

My challenge was transferring multiple changes from the muslin to a tissue.   I started by measuring along the HBL’s on the muslin which were also marked on my tissue. I calculated the difference between the two and realized I needed to make these changes:

Summary of Tissue Changes

  1. Full Tummy made to each half of front
    1. Waist+2.25″
    2. High Hip 1.5″
    3. Low Hip.75
  2. Increased Crotch Length
    1. Front 1.5″
    2. Back 2.75″
  3. Increased Back Crotch Extension
    1. .75″

One change not in my list is scooping the back crotch. At the time I made the scoop, the pant felt better but the rear did not look better. When I added to the back crotch extension (and reduced the length of the upright) most of the wrinkles simply disappeared.  I was totally unsure of the need for the scoop and decided not to make it right away.

What followed next was  6 hours of trying to adapt the tissue to the new measurements. I had to make 3 new fronts. Adding over 2″ to half a front  proved particularly difficult. All the books say slash and spread. Can do;  multiple times but after taping new tissue beneath, the pattern would not lie flat. Wouldn’t do it unless I slashed all the way to the hem.  I didn’t want to add ease everywhere. In front I only wanted to add ease to the tummy area. Finally decided to use a method I had not tried before.  I cut along the seam allowances of center front and side seam and spread these seams the amount needed down to the level needed (low hip).  Worked really good on the front and again at the back crotch spreading the crotch to add 3/4″.  A large amount needed to be added to both crotch uprights, I extended the lines straight up the required amount and used my curve to draw a new waist. Pleased with myself, I pressed the planned fabric, laid out the pattern pieces and continued with  housework that needed doing.

That evening I read Louise’s suggestion to trace the muslin, if I didn’t want to use the muslin as the pattern. That Louise is a smart cookie.  I didn’t want to keep the muslin.  Keeping muslins for patterns takes up lots of storage room. Something I”m short on.  But I absolutely could have traced the muslin. Oy! Vey!

Next morning I realized if I discarded the altered tissue and traced the muslin, I would remember Louise’s trick in the future. So I pulled out more tracing material; placed a front and back from my muslin on the material and traced around it.  I was pretty careful when tracing. but knew I would need to straighten and maybe even true my lines.  Then I had a thought. I compared the tissue I created yesterday with the tracing today. To my surprise and delight, they were nearly the same. My tracing around the muslin was a little wobbly but the over all shape and dimensions were spot-on. The except was the back crotch:

The back crotch of the muslin aligns with my green dash lined on this tissue.  Since the copy of the muslin and the tissue created the day before were so nearly alike, I decided to use my day-before tissue. BUT I absolutely will use Louise’s tracing idea in the future. My shape keeps changing so I suspect it’s just a matter of time before I need to make more muslins. Altering the tissue took 6 hours. Tracing the muslin 30 minutes.  Even if I take another 30 minutes to straighten and true lines, I’m time ahead.

Found another fabric deep in the muslin stack. A cotton/lycra also testing with 20% stretch.  It’s a nice pant fabric but it is a summer color in a winter weight. It’s a medium/heavy weight fabric that is warm but it is in a color that will stain badly during the winter. Here in SD, the snow, the road dirt, the ice melting substances maybe a little road-kill  all combine to make a nasty dark, greasy substance. Nasty. Tires pick it up and splatter the sides of your car. You then pick it up on your clothes and other possessions. Wouldn’t this be the best time for a car wash business? Then why is it most of the car washes close during the winter?  Well back to sewing…  I won’t wear this color during in the winter weather which the fabric is best for, so muslin it is.  I laid out my fabric, again after having picked it up earlier; and again laid out my tissue pieces.  I made a little more effort with this muslin.  I finished the edges by running them through the serger and stitched the zipper and darts with polyester thread instead of water-soluble. I may be prepared for this to be a muslin but I’m also prepared for it to be a nice pant which can be worn a few weeks every year (after the snow before the heat and again after the heat of summer and before the snow.) No problem of course cutting and stitching.  Didn’t hem but did turn up 4″ and pin 4″ of the legs in place. Tried the pant on and took first pics.

Let’s cut to the chase, the all important back:

I think I need the scoop.

Oh let’s look at the front on which I have somehow made the crotch too long:

I need to lower it about 3/8″ which is easy to do.  I made a pleat close to the side seam, because the waist was to wide to fit the waistband. I think I made it too far to the side. Fortunately, these are 3 ease changes.  Should note for you guys at home (or work or wherever), this fabric wants to cling to the body. Almost like static cling. I’ve got some static cling spray around here some place. Think I’ll give the muslin a little.




3 thoughts on “3218: III”

  1. What measurements are you working with? Front crotch length? Back crotch length? I think your back length is still a bit short. I understand your frustration. I used software for many months thinking with putting in my specific measurements, the pattern would be perfect. I taped and taped multiple pieces of paper together and cut muslin after muslin until I just gave up for a while. I tried other brands of patterns, too, during my quest. The major brands are so unrealistic with the front and back crotch seams about 1.5 to 2 inches in difference. Who is built like that! I was nervous to add to the back extension but I did and that made a big difference in comfort and appearance. My back seam is slightly slanted because the slope of my back from waist to 4 inches down is not real pronounced.
    Do you have the book about Seam Method of Alteration…3rd edition? Can you borrow one? That has an excellent visual about walking the seams of the pants with your bowl shape.

  2. Rose Marie
    I am working with a lot of measurements. Back and front crotch, waist, low hip, high hip to be exact. I meaure the muslin at those points then alter the tissue to match.

    Sadly that book is not available to me.
    Thanks for your suggestions.


    1. Bev,
      If you send me a message to my email address, I will send you those pages I mentioned. I had received an 8 page pdf from the book’s author after taking a class with her. She sent the pages as an update. They may help you on your quest. After writing a response to you, I started searching my computer because I vaguely remembered receiving the pages. I have saved many pages about pants and fitting from many sources because that was such an obsession for me for many years.
      Rose Marie

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