3218-StretchWoven, Silhouette Patterns

3218 III: Tweaking Fit

ETA: Grammar and Spelling


The experts will tell you not to make drastic changes to the crotch all at once. Make the scoops gradually, 1/4″ at a time. I agree because I’ve seen that in action; but I already knew the previous muslin needed to be scooped 1.25″ (at its deepest).  I also knew there was a good possibility not as much would be required because I have not made the multiple changes to the back that I made on the previous muslin .   I returned to the tissue whereon I had marked the difference between the muslin crotch and  tissue crotch. I traced the tissue crotch (blue), then the muslin crotch (brown) and then plotted a curve half-way between the two (red):

I cut the tracing along the muslin crotch line. Placed it onto the new muslin and copied the brown line to the new muslin using a brown watercolor marker.

Plotted the next stitching line about half way between serger seam and my brown line; stitched and then trimmed  with my rotary cutter

Not much trimmed away, but look at the difference:

Fit02                               Fit01

It feels much more comfortable too. But I think it needs to be scooped even more. So back to the sewing room where I stitched another 1/4″ deeper into the crotch curve:

I looked at the result and said “Is it really any better? ”  I can scoop another 3/8″ before I have made this crotch the same as the previous muslin.  But when I focus  on the seat, I have to ask, is it really any better looking? Is scooping making the seat look better?

It certainly feels better. But as far as appearance goes, I think more ease across the seat itself is what is needed. Or, am I being chicken?  Am I afraid to take the big step and scoop out the whole 1-1/4″?

I stopped to wonder if the scoop was helping the legs hang better.

Well maybe, if not for the developing X wrinkle. Still being cautious(chicken),  instead of scooping the crotch that last  bit, I offset the side seams and deepened the back darts so I would have more fabric for where I stick out the furthest.

Isn’t fitting fun?  Didn’t you think I had solved or nearly solved all the issues on the previous muslin?   I think I was right to suspect that all the slicing, patching, darts and tucking did as much to camouflage  issues as it did to help.  Not that this work didn’t help. Just that I knew even then I didn’t have this fitting fully solved and would need to do more.

Fit 03 Ease across the butt

Fit03                                Fit01

I ripped open the seams so I could offset the back seam allowance 1/2″.  I have put off scooping the crotch again justifying my cowardice with the fact that every time I scoop, I remove much needed ease from the hip. I’ve now added as much as I can by taking it from the side seams. I don’t think that is working. I think my best option is scooping the crotch to be the same as the previous muslin and adding a patch at the side seam so I can add more fabric to the back. What do you think?

After questioning and searching, I think I know why the fabric doesn’t simply go from the front to the back where it is needed.  I think it is held in place or with limited mobility by the waistband.  Yep, where I place the side seam determines how much the fabric can move about.  I could shift the side seam position on the waistband but then the side seam will be angled towards the center back instead of being perpendicular to the floor and vertical.  I don’t like the looks of an off-angle side seam. I’m also trying to determine what changes I need to make to the front. My front change decisions are inaccurate if I have to calculate in shifting to the back. So my choice if I  scoop the crotch now will be a strip added at the side seam to be situated on the back half of the pant.

After all the effort  to fit a full tummy, I was now seeing too much ease in front. Why, I don’t know. I had carefully measured and added.  My tissue looks like the previous muslin. Heck my tissue looks like  the  tracing of the previous muslin. It was disappointing to see and feel too much ease in front. So when I changed the back seam allowance to 1/4″, I also marked the front stitching line at 1-1/4″. Add to the back, take away from the front. Well, it works for me:

Every cautious, I was not removing as much as I could pinch. Yet the front was enormously improved especially on the left. I’m a little unsure what is happening on the right. The pattern piece was the same for both sides.  Is it my stance? Has the asymmetry of my right shoulder progressed to affect my right hip? While both are possible, I’ve discovered my waistband is too loose. How did that happen? The only reason I can think of is that I either did not correctly mark or measure the old waistband. But if that is the issue, why does the right look wonky and the left is something of which to be proud?

Before  taking off this muslin; quitting for day; cleaning up and trotting upstairs, I took a peep in the mirror. (Can’t really see enough detail in the camera screen and for that matter can’t see everything in the mirror.)  But I took a peep in the mirror and said “Why am I wearing Jodhpurs?” Not my intention at all, but clearly I was wearing Jodhpur pants.  I pinned the left side seam down a long ways to remove the Jodhpur effect and took more pics.


Ah, the pinning makes the front look even better, but wait? I pinned 1/2″ from the side seam from the front through the back.  I took ease from both the front and back. The back was already suffering from not enough ease. Oh my, did I just really mess up the back?

After pinning

Uh, maybe not. Look at all 3 fittings

Let’s all say it together: Huh? Really, pinching out 1/2″ of excess ease didn’t make the back look any tighter than before? So do I or do I not need to compensate for scooping the crotch?

Once again, I’m not completely sure of myself.  I think I’m going in the right direction. But I think I might be better off  by waiting for some unbiased opinion/input:  YOURS.  What would you do?

5 thoughts on “3218 III: Tweaking Fit”

  1. Have you tried scooping down vs. out towards center back, so that the back curve is lower than the level where your inseams meet? Also, you might check the length from your waist, over and under to the crease of your buttock on your fullest side. I’m fuller on my left side than my right, so that’s what I’ll fit. I noticed mine was a lot more than I expected, but basically it seems like that’s how much fabric is needed lengthwise to go over my rear. Circumference-wise, I need .5 inches more than my right.

  2. Hi Bev
    I’ve been following your pants quest for sometime now. I would like to send you some pictures of what I am trying. We have bottoms very much alike and I have been going through the same kind of frustrations as you. I think I may have found what might work.

    Marilyn in Oviedo, Fl.

  3. Bev,

    I am wondering if you have transferred to your pattern the slash near the back inseams! This correction is important, it lengthen the lower crotch and at the same times removed the drag lines in the back of your pants.
    I will not scoop the crotch .

  4. Yep. I think I may have gotten too much length in the back crotch because there is a small hardly noticeable bubble just below the waistband.


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