3218-StretchWoven, Silhouette Patterns

3218:Seating II

I was pretty sure that adding the 2″ of ease over the hip was too much. Not until I saw it in effect did I realize how much too much that was. So today, I ripped out the 3/8″ inseam dart — It didn’t help. Why keep it?– then reduced each of the newly added back wedges by 3/8″. I gave the muslin a quick press, no steam, slipped the muslin on and took pics. Wish I could say it was a rousing success but truth is, I hardly notice anything either feeling or looking different:

It seems to pull on my rear at the same time as having too much ease.  I pinned out the 1/2″ ease once again and took pics of that too.

Unpinned—Pinned to remove 1/2″

Well that hardly seems to have had an effect. It looks no better, no worse.  Feels no better nor worse.  I remembered I added 1″ to the side seam of the back because I anticipated reshaping the crotch which would require getting some ease from some place else.  But I thought I had stitched along the original stitching line i.e. did not incorporate the extra 1″ ease in the fit. Just to be sure, I looked carefully now. Yep stitched along the original stitching line. Darn! That would have been a nice easy fix.

It’s odd that the back crotch feels tights after multiple fittings in which it felt fine and after adding 1″ to the total crotch length even if added only to the front. Seems like if it was too short, I would have felt the pulling earlier and the back crotch would at least felt a little better after the addition.

I’m running out of ideas that can be easily reversed,  so I’m considering carefully scooping and reshaping the crotch.  I just didn’t think either helped with the first go-round on this muslin. Why would it work now? And I do mean it didn’t work as in there was no discernible difference either visually or felt in M1Fit04. For M2 FIT 06 I decided to take an this unreversible step but not as drastic as the crotch reshaping performed on M1Fit04.  Using the information provided by InHousePatterns:

The Crotch Curve

She has two other excellent videos sharing her particular philosophy for fitting pants.



and Getting Started

All are excellently done, but keep in mind there are many experts, many philosophies. If it works for you, do it. If not, well at least you gave it an effort. Move on. something else.

I don’t doubt the movies and individual frames are copyrighted so let me show you what I think she said to do.

Starting with the pattern piece, draw in the horizontal crotch line and then the vertical upright.

That produces the rectangular shape with which the pattern cutter created the crotch curve.  Since my front looks good, I won’t touch the front crotch. But I am reshaping the curve within the guidelines of the pattern by redrawing just the curve:

There’s quite a bit of space for reshaping the curve. At least 1-1/2″ I’d say.  I’m a person that prefers making incremental changes instead of making a single, big, fat, whopping mistake.  I marked a short line 1/2″ in the crotch curve, drew and stitched along the line.  This is not like the scoops that I’ve done in the past. In the past I’ve made 1/4″ changes (multiple but 1/4 at a time) which carved into the body of the pant and then under the bottom of the crotch. I feel like I made a BIG change because I used 1/2″, twice what I normally do. But, I can neither see nor feel an improvement.

I double down; er maybe more. I made that curve a full inch deep.  I’m tired of all that ease flapping around. So after Louise made the same observation, I decided upon making the CB seam deeper.

For the first time, when I slipped the muslin on, I said “Ahhhhhhh…..” but man, the legs  looks like cr@p:

….Fit6————————– Fit1

Sadly, The first fitting (shown above) looked much better overall in the back.  But, the torso, just from waist to wazoo, does look good.

Most of the wrinkles up there can be fixed by adjusting the position and maybe depth of the darts.  The crotch is not cutting into the bifurcation.

The front, which was untouched, also looks nicer.

Let me say it again, by only removing some of the excess ease in the back the front looks better. Changing the back crotch curve could have helped, but I don’t think so. The front started looking worse when I added the wedges in back. If anything, the previous alterations to the back made the front look frumpier. I think it was deepening the CB seam, thereby removing total ease across the torso which had the positive effect on the front.

Well that’s enough for today. Tomorrow, I think I might be able to reshape the crotch curve a little more.

It’s already very angular. Not sure that I want to make it more so.  Also, I’m still wondering about the crotch length itself. Making the Bowl, using the bendy curve to copy my crotch curve has been more confusing to me.  At this point, I’m not even sure I have the correct length. What I am using, from the OctBowl, is shorter than the AugBowl and shorter again then the pants I love which used to fit me.  I am just not sure the “Bowl” concept is helping me. I think I need more research into it i.e. reviewing the videos and blog posts before I work with it again.


2 thoughts on “3218:Seating II”

  1. The only pants patterns I’ve seen that uses a sharp angle back curve instead of a smooth one are from Hot Patterns. I have the weekender utility cargo pant, which is one of the more recent patterns and it has that shape. It’s on the ‘try’ list. I’ve also been working on drafting in my software since they added the ability to shift the legs on pants. One thing I found that helped was dropping the back curve below the ‘seat’ or crotch line and then removing the amount I dropped from the back extension ( my backside droops ). The last issue figuring out why my pant legs twist in a bit below the knee.
    I have to say I find your persistence in pants fitting very inspiring. I hope you find your unicorn. : )

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