3218-StretchWoven, Silhouette Patterns

3218: Fitting the Seat

After fitting the waist, crotch and tummy, I was thinking the next alteration would be adding extra seating ease. Like I always need.  Even on Silhouette Patterns, I add ease to the back at the hip. The suddenly uncomfortable crotch had me questioning myself. Did the seat really need more circumference or did the crotch need more length? I mean is the darkness between the cheeks from the extra strip and thread or am I really seeing the crotch snuggling between the cheeks? Was there an easy way to determine which is my problem?  You know what really bothered me?  Why did this pattern with 11/15 crotch lengths feel fine;  until this fitting? Seriously in 8 other fittings the crotch felt fine. I had congratulated myself repeatedly on adding the 1.5″ to the back crotch at the tissue stage. But now, after giving my  tummy all the circumference it needed,  why was did the back crotch appear to be crawling up my wahzoo?

I thought an easy cross check might be measuring a pair of pants that I like. I found a pair of non-stretch pants I’ve been wearing for at least 2 years. They are stretched way-out of their original shape but my purpose was to measure a pant that rested on the waist and felt good all day long. I thought any changes the pant had made to fit my body, could only be helpful. I measured back crotch first. 16″. Same as OctBowl and same as this muslin measures. Then I measured the  front crotch of the comfortable pant. 12 inches. 1 inch more than this muslin. Since I know the comfortable pant feels and looks good, I added a stripto the muslin at the top of the front;  trimmed it down so that the muslin front crotch would also measure 12″ but the side seam lengths were unchanged.  I replaced the back darts with tucks; adjusted the side seam relative to the waistband another 1/4″ and slipped the muslin on for pics. Before snapping pics, I had a second thought. I wanted to be sure that the clip holding the CF’s together  was not pulling the waist down . Instead of the strong metal clip I used previously, I used a plastic clip. Much lighter-weighing than the metal.

Pics TAKE TWO, Fit 03

I am really pleased with the sides (Even though I only posted the left side, I am pleased with both side seams).  The side seam is almost perfectly straight. It breaks slightly at the crotch and again at the knee. I’m not even sure I should worry about the side seam beyond making sure I correctly mark the waistband for future use.

I’m not sure that the front looks or feels better.  I can usually tell I’ve make the right fitting  alteration, even a small improvement, because I feel the difference.  Like when I slashed and added circumference over my tummy, I actually sighed with relief.  If the correct change was making the front crotch longer, why don’t I have the “Ah…….” experience?

Moving along:

Trying to restore the crotch may have been a big, fat error.  I find that I am visually confused. Is something going on in the crotch or is it just fabric and dark thread used in the patch?  I think I may have made my darts too deep (3/8″ and 5/8″). Correctible but not right in this fitting. Let’s take a close look at the crotch/back torso

The crotch feels fine during wear; well the whole pant feels fine during wear. Feels much better than it looks.

Legs:

 

Fit03    ……………………………….      Fit 01

I’m not seeing any improvement in back wrinkles. I thought I saw improvement after adding the tummy ease but I don’t see even that improvement in Fit 03. IOW  I don’t think lengthening the front crotch helped back there.  I’m going to leave the crotch length alone for now.

In Fit 04 I’m changing the thing I thought  I would be changing after Fit02 (you know, before I got side tracked into checking crotch length):

Seat Ease

I wanted to see if I needed more circumference over my seat/rear/butt. I wasn’t sure how much more ease, if any, to add to the seat.  I figured the 2″ I normally add (1″ at each side seam) would be too much. But at least, it was a starting point. I am surprised at how  ‘too much” my standard 2″ addition is. In the above pic, the leg on the right looks better than on the left. My stance perhaps?

I am reluctant, Ok I’m darn right avoiding the Hip Line dart. I just cannot wrap my head around adding 1″ at the hip balance line to make the back crotch long enough and then taking it away to remove the wrinkles under the seat. Either I need the length of not. I can’t have it both ways.  But taking the inseam dart to re-angle the leg, well yes that makes sense especially IF later on I somehow restore the inseam length to my preference.

So: Fit05 and pics of a 3/8″ Inseam made on my left leg:

WOW does that look bad. Without the 3/8″ dart, the right leg is much more attractive, even on the Front view.

I am truly disappointed. I’ve seen that dart work multiples times for other people. Why not me?

I note , the muslin now definitely has too much torso ease. I’ve pinned out at least 1/2″ on the left side seam (would be 2″ total)

It  helped the appearance of the entire leg.

 

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This is where I stopped, cleared today’s mess and turned off the lights before heading upstairs.  I’ve done what I can do while still taking care of my other obligations (laundry, cleaning, meals etc).  I think  tomorrow, the next step will be taking a little ease out of the back by narrowing the wedges I added. Not sure about also narrowing the wedges in front. It could be that the seat was borrowing ease from front. So while the tummy looked like it had the right amount of ease, it really had too much. I’m not sure about that yet, so next step is removing from the back. Ah, why is pant fitting so nebulous?

 

 

 

 

 

 

7 thoughts on “3218: Fitting the Seat”

  1. The correction for the front of your pants (on the 17 sept.) was very good. But for the back you needed only to lengthen the part of the crotch below the hips. Like in the video Fitting pants, the crotch curve.https://www.inhousepatternsstudio.com/blog/fitting-pants-the-crotch-curve
    By doing this correction that will give you more room for the seat.You do not need to touch the side seams as they where ok. on sept. 17
    When I look at the back of your pants I see ( ) parenthesis that Alexandra mentions in her video. Also I see that the inseams are too short and the drag line are going toward the seat. By doing one correction at a time, it is easier to see the changes to be made.

    1. Louise, You think I don’t needed the wedges in back (add circumference across the seat)? Today, I plan to” take away” at least some of that circumference, but if I’m going to scoop out the crotch, maybe I should leave them alone. In case, I need to offset what the scoop removes.

  2. Wow, so close! I can just imagine the frustration at this point. I would encourage you to confine your next sequence of changes to the back (ie rip side seam and adjust back, then resew). The front appears to be hanging perfectly and I don’t think you could ever get a straighter side seam. Onward!

  3. oh I feel your pain! have you ever tried firing a pair that has front and back “princess” seams, or whatever you’d call them on pants? i’m considering trying a pair to see if that helps mē with the process. seems like more fitting opportunities should be a good thing… or not…

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