3218-StretchWoven, Silhouette Patterns

3218 Fitting the front

Today I kept trying to remember how many people warned me I needed a full-tummy adjustment?  I should have heeded their advice. I think my stumbling block  was that a FTA adds length as well as circumference while I only needed circumference and that seemed to be needed only in the rear.

I did my alteration a little differently than envisioned yesterday. On both sides of center front, I draw a vertical line where I wanted to slash, cut that apart and basted a 3″ wide strip of fabric to the inside. I ripped the waistband basting apart from the side seam to almost 2″ away from the zipper. Then I slipped the muslin on; zipped it up and smoothed the strip inside. I pinned the strip in place. On second thought I grabbed a watercolor pen and traced the wedge which had opened. Good thing because when I tried to take the muslin off, it was pinned to my underwear. Pins had to be removed. But I had my lines and could now baste the strip on the other side of the drawn wedge. I opened the waist within 2″ of center back then pinned it back in place which the side seams shifted 3/4″ inch towards center back. I was able to ease the front but the back still needed tucks/darts.  Hoping to eliminate the way the tuck unfolded yesterday, I placed the new tucks only 2.5″ away from CB. BTW this does correspond to what I know about my body. I always move the darts closer to the side in front and in the back closer to the center back. My curve is in the tummy and tush. Very little curve along the sides which is why I get Mickey Mouse ears. (Those flaps of fabric on the sides which are needed for ease more towards the center of the body.)

Actually I was afraid to look at the pics (I’ll explain later)

The wedges look weird, but the high-hip shadow has disappeared and this unpressed muslin looks better than ever.

I moved the sides 3/4″ towards center back but that was too far. Side seams are now leaning slightly towards back instead of obliquely towards front. It’s an improvement; but not exactly what I want. Which is what I’d say about the sides overall. They look better, probably better than any previously fitting, but for a slack, I want them to hang a little straighter without any of the buckles I’m seeing.

Fit 02………………………………..Fit01

I wanted the back fittings side by side for comparison

It is interesting to me at how adding ease to the front has improved the back. Moving the tucks/darts over eliminated most of the  pull under the waistband seen earlier. Happily I’m no longer seeing the high-hip shadow anywhere.

Remember I wrote I was afraid to look at these pics? When I tried the muslin on, it felt like it was pulling itself up into the bifurcation. I’m not making jeans where the bifurcated butt is the focus. I am aiming for a slack. I am aiming for semi-fitting, not closely fitting (jean) or loose-fitting (trouser). In the 5 minutes I had the muslin on, I knew, if finished I wouldn’t wear this all day long.  I look at crotch length

Back ……………………. Front

and I can see that neither is  bad.  I look at the level of the waistband

both sides look horizontal to me. Not creeping up in front. Not pulling down in back.  I don’t feel either condition, I feel pulling into the bifurcation both front and back So I sit and wonder, is it time to add ease to the back (using the same slash and add wedge)? Increase the front and back crotch length? But if I do that,  will I be seeing the CF and CB rising? From the side it will make a curve instead of a horizontal line. So is it time to slice it all horizontally  and add length evenly across the torso? And if the crotch length is wrong, why did I bother with the bowl and tieing the quarter-inch elastic around my waist? All that refining I did to pin-point to lean of the crotch on the axis–the whole water-spout and garbage disposal stuff?

Pants fitting is my sorriest skill.

4 thoughts on “3218 Fitting the front”

  1. Bev, it isn’t your skills. Pants are hard to fit. I have had “experts” fit me in pants patterns they developed and was not happy with the fit. You have a lot of patience and you deserve a lot of credit for that.

  2. your pants are looking better and better! for what it’s worth, and you’ve already probably thought of this and discarded it, but this would be my thought from what I see. shorten the length of the back crotch in the upper area (so that horizontal line doesn’t dip), but increase the length of the crotch where it goes under your bum, perhaps by that same amount. then the horizontal line in back won’t dip, is my thinking.

  3. Sewingplan
    I see what you are talking about. Even though the HBL’s are bound to be inaccurate, they seem too deep way a too much. Adding to the extension is difficult at this point, especially with all the patches I’ve made. I may be able to lengthen the extension by scooping.


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