5682 - Jeans, CrotchLength/Hip/Waist, DraftingFitting, View B

5682B Muslin 2: Continue to Fit

So, I drew another back crotch curve setting it 1/2″  away from the previous. Then I tried to find the place of biggest difference. Not so easy when trying to hold fabric sewn into a 3D shape and holding a 2D pattern next to the fabric.

I came close enough and (right pic) stitched, trimmed and admired my new back crotch.

Above, ripped open the side seams from about 1″ below waist to about 6″ below crotch.  I drew but did not trim a new curve for the front, side seam raw edge.  Aligning the back side seam with the new front, side-seam curve was pretty easy but did give me cause for deliberation. Didn’t I need to also offset the amount carved out of the back crotch?  I’m pretty reluctant to make multiple changes at the same time.  Peggy Sagers makes it look so easy. But here at home, by myself, I find  when I make multiple adjustments that later on I undo those same adjustments.  I’ve made 2 changes. That’s enough for the next set of pics.

I’m cutting to the chase and posting both Fit 1 and Fit2 pics so we can view and critique at the same time.  Let’s look at the side seam first.

Unlike Fit 1, the side seam is not clearly displaying Mickey Mouse ears or excess side fabric. The side seam curve is pretty clear.  Definitely leaning towards CB  just under the waistband but then straightening by the hip.  From that point, I’m not sure if the seam is continuing in an arc towards the ankle or behind the ankle. Something to keep an eye on.  I am pleased the side view looks better. Lots and lots of better. I’m looking just under the hip and all the way down the leg.  Fewer drag lines, fewer folds. I like this.

Whoop! Whoop! Whoop! Almost can’t believe the front is looking so much better I’d quit messing with the front if both sides looked like the left of Fit2 . The picture doesn’t show it too well, but there is still about 1/2″ of excess ease along the side seams. That is something not seen in the side view and again you won’t see in the back view. Before we get  to the back  though I am quite interested in how the right side divot has continued and even  may be a little deeper.  In Fit1 there were diagonals, not quite the whiskers of a short crotch length around the inseam. In Fit 2, there may be one on the right side (none on the left). Then again it may be entirely related to the right-side divot.

OK time to look at the back:

Did you notice a lack of enthusiasm three? I am seeing  little to no improvement. In some places there are more drag lines then there were before. I am also seeing a mirror of the lower front leg diagonal. It’s most prominent on the left leg but it’s there on the right as well. I cringe because I think I am seeing the beginning of the dreaded X wrinkles. They are located higher than usual i.e. not right at the knee but up by the thigh. Is this an improvement or not?  So far I have followed the curve of My Bowl of the 2nd orientation (using the water-spout for inseam location). It’s pretty flat…

… a shallow even curve with both front and back at the same level.  Most of my pants have needed the back crotch to be lower than the front at least this much:

In the past and depending upon  pattern and fabric, I have scooped even further.  (I have what Palmer and Pletsch called a “High Low Anomaly”. They only write 1 paragraph on this. If you’re not reading carefully you will miss it.  I passed by at least a dozen times until someone told me the page to look upon. )

For Fit03 I will take the front side seams in another 1/2″.   On the back, I will scoop so that the back is lower than the front.

I paused before making the planned changes.  I wondered if somehow I had misread the pattern.  I thought when looking at this:

.. that the contents were a pattern for 1 pant style ( a jean) with pocket and hem-width options/variations. I thought: Fit once make 5 different looking pants! Now I wondered if that was true since the top of the waistband with View A is sitting at the waist with the rest extending below. The Version B waistband was resting at the waist but extending upwards. The top of the waistband is closer to my rib carriage but not uncomfortably so. I looked closely at the pic and think, well B  could have a different waistband.  I pull out the waistband pattern:

It clearly says for A, B (the view I’m fitting), C, and D.  Patterns have lied to me before, OK been misprinted, so I pull out the instructions:

Again, pretty clear the same waistband is to be used for both A and B versions. But then again patterns have lied to me before…

Moving on, I think since I’m not  making significant progress on the back, maybe I should start at ground zero and measure the actual pant crotch. Wrangling fabric so the sewn together pieces can be measured was no joy but it did reveal  a back crotch length 16.5″ ; front 12.25″. I need 16/13.) Both measurements are with waistband. The WB really should be sitting with the top at my natural waist! Like the pic of 5682! Why is sitting up so high?

I move the side seam forward 1″ along the waistband to correct the leg curve. Next measure and mark 1/2″ below the back crotch.  I use my curve to join the mark to both previous front and back curves. A little tricky but done. Then I stitch and trim the new crotch curve and measure a second time.  After the curve adjustment, the back curve is  the same length,16.5″. The front however has grown to 12.75″. How? It’s always possible my measuring was not entirely accurate. But I’m surprised to be 1/2″ off.  Could that really have made the front crotch grow 1/2″? You know,  I wouldn’t even blink if it had been 1/8″. Wouldn’t give it a second thought. But 1/2″?  ??? I proceed to making new fitting pics.

The curvature of the side seam is much improved. But the inch was not enough.  I’ll need to move the side seam forward again. The curve shifts backwards at the hip level; wobbles a little at the knee and then breaks at the ankle.  I think these are to be expected i.e. not a problem.

Look at the waistband first and the diagonals extending from it.  I had so much extra fabric to ease to the waistband, I didn’t do a good job. On a trouser I would prefer a front pleat and back darts. Next time I move the side along the waistband, I think I will change from gathers to pleats. You may be a better judge, but I personally can’t really tell if those diagonals are fitting issues or just excess fabric in the wrong place  for the smoothest front.  I question that they are length indications because 1) the total length is only 1/4″ less than needed and 2) when wearing, it feels a bit long between WB and crotch. Also, I’m looking again inside that red box. Why are there diagonals on the right side but not left? They  seam to be extending from the zipper application. Is that possible? Would a bad zipper application cause such a thing?  Whoops, I forgot to change the ease at the side! Still got MM ears on the side.  That’s important  to remember because when you look at the back:

Micky Mouse ears in the front BUT Visible Pantie in the back??? If circumference is just circumference, why doesn’t it move to the back where it is needed instead of poking out on the side front?.  Interesting set of inseam diagonals. Right under the bum they all point up and toward the sides. Around the knee, they start pointing from the inseam down and towards the side seam. Not exact X wrinkles as they do not meet/cross at any point. Not at knee; not like Fit 02 where they crossed at the thigh.

This is enough work for today.  Tomorrow I shall

  • Shift the side seams toward the front  1/2′ along the waistband
  • Pleat instead of gather leg to waistband both front and back
  • Trim 1/2″ on the front side seam (Mickey Mouse Ears)
  • Add more fabric to back side seam and increase the back side seam.

 

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4 thoughts on “5682B Muslin 2: Continue to Fit”

  1. have you ever drawn several horizontal lines across your bum on the fabric to see where the back is dipping? seems like there is pulling at lower area?

  2. Yes, but not with this pattern. Must keep your observation in mind. Anything that would make the pant fitting process accurate and easier is something I must consider.

    Bev

  3. If a C adjustment isn’t helping, maybe it’s D issue, which I think is what the previous commenter is addressing. Recently saw a Fit2 Stitch episode on pants fitting (available only that day). Peggy was using horizontal darts across the backside to address drag lines on her model.

  4. I agree with Julia about drawing horizontal lines at the hips and crotch level in front and back. You will see immediately if the crotch is to long or too short.

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