Despite leaving pants alone for 3 days, I really didn’t have any new ideas. So I turned to an old idea on which I had not yet followed through: My BOWL.
The first thing I did was trace my original tissue.
I added a 3/8″ seam allowance and then trimmed the excess tissue. I thought adding the seam allowances as on my pattern tissue might make it easier to match up the two.
Then I retrieved 5682B tissue pieces. Marked 3/8″ on either side of the inseam crotch then pinned the crotches together as they would be stitched.
Note I folded the fly out of the way to eliminate that distraction and added the yoke for a more accurate idea of the pattern crotch length. The waistband is floating above the back. I want to remember that the pant had 1.25″ added to both front and back at the top of the pant via the waistband.
I placed My Bowl tracing on top of the pinned together pant tissue aligning inseam and top of pant + yoke. Do note that My Bowl does not extend at all over or into the waistband which I thought was essential to total crotch length!
I had a deja vu moment. I am sure I must have done something like this years and years ago. My first thought is that My Bowl has little resemblance to the pant crotch. My understanding is that I should now reshape the crotch adding/removing length as needed and hollowing out the body space. Hollowing out the body space will mean that I don’t have enough fabric to cover my body (this is true of nearly everybody, not just me.) What you have to do, is add whatever was removed from the inseam to the corresponding side seam. WOW I’m going to be moving around inches. Can you imagine what that is going to do to the hip side seam shape? Plus, I know that is wrong. I absolutely remember sometime in the last 10 years having adding extra to the side seams and then curving back to the leg side seams. When I put those pants on, I had Mickey Mouse ease along both side seams and not enough fabric covering my butt. Why didn’t the fabric just move over where it was needed? Peggy Sagers says circumference is circumference and the fabric will adapt. Didn’t happen with my fabric.
Recently a commentator suggested I was placing my vertical and horizontal guide lines incorrectly. Correcting them means taking my clothes off and a repeat measuring/tracing of My Bowl. South Dakota is in an interesting time of the year where it is cool/cold in the morning; sweating in the afternoon. I hate turning on the heat because I know I will be fanning myself a few hours later (and probably standing in front of the air conditioner). In a few more weeks, the weather will be more even. I’ll have the heat on and won’t mind removing a few items of clothing in private. But for now, I just estimated where my ‘water spout’ would be and rotated the bowl slightly to put it on the inseam.
In this position, the comparison makes a little more sense to me. Yet I hesitate to carve out the interior of the pattern. One thing, I’m very suspicious of the crotch height. 1-1/4″ will be added to each when I add the waistband. In the pic just above, it does not appear the extra length is needed. But the individual and total crotch length (13/16/29) was measured on My BOWL and the pattern merely adapted. Further, the pant muslin was adapted for what I was seeing in pics of the muslin i.e. adapting for the particular fabric. I don’t think the muslin crotch looked too long. Apparently, I have a disconnect with the crotch length which I can’t explain.
Now that I am thinking about it, I also don’t think that simply copying the Bowl shape to the pant works. A very simple explanation for that is BIAS. The entire crotch and inseam is cut on some angle of bias. Bias is wonderfully flexible and adaptive but it can also change the garment into something hideous. I never had the big urge to work with lots of bias because I remember my aunts and cousins bemoaning that they had let a garment hang for days, weeks even before hemming. During the first actual wear the dress completely changed shaped. They were embarrassed by quitting time by the lopsided hanging of their hem as well as various bubbles that appeared. Doesn’t everyone out there have memory of denim pants which fit in the morning but would have been appropriate for a Big Friendly Giant in the evening? Bias is tricky. At least, that’s what I learned.
Then there is another consideration. What I take from inside the crotch may or may not be evenly added to the side seam. That’s because I’m taking from body space/hollow at the crotch but the side seam is total circumference that is usually divided by 4 (or total number of seams).
So I am sitting here looking at these 4 pics and wondering what’s the next step.