5682 - Jeans, View B

5682 View B

I kept thinking about the whole crotch/hip/waist relationship. Wondering if V1411 had fit nicely because it was a Sandra Betzina draft or because I’d stumbled upon the right size (for those 3 critical measures) and alterations. I remembered both 5682 and Silhouette Patterns 3200 as being easy to fit. How could they be easy and V1411 in 2 sizes larger be easy  if they shared the same basic draft? (I”m ignoring all the false starts I had with V1411. The last version was easy.)  I am fairly sure they do share the same basic draft. Especially 5682 which was sold by Vogue and V1411 sold by their sister company Butterick. The Big 4 have their draft down and haven’t changed it, famous designers notwithstanding. It seems to me that for all 3 patterns to be easily fit, they must all 3 have the same critical measures. They don’t.  So I, intending only to measure, pulled out 5682 and measured View B

I measured View B, not A, because View A’s leg was too small. In time I added width to the hem.  I am assuming that all 5 views of 5682 are the same with differences in leg styling. If I traced again, it would not be View A. 

Dotting out all the 5/8″ seam allowances and using a flexible ruler, I measured front and back crotch, hip then compared with 5682 View A, SP3200 and  V1411 figures. I said “Huh.” I did what little housework was required downstairs all the while thinking…

Earlier I had added the yoke and waistband widths. Now I took my personal measurements, subtracted WB and yoke  (as appropriate) and I figured out how much the pattern needed to measure to fit me.  Which is:

  • Front Crotch  11.5
  • Back Crotch 12.5
  • Hip 45 (includes 1.5″ ease)

None of the sizes came close to what I need. Seeing that, it makes me wonder how on earth 5682 View A was so easy to fit the first time? So I stopped to read my posts. They say we forget pain. We remember we had pain, but we forget the intensity. It must be true because for View A, I made 3 aisle runner muslins and 3 different fabric versions before I was satisfied. I did not say “until I perfected” just that I was satisfied enough to wear the resulting pants  everywhere. Even after reaching a satisfied point, I continued to tweak the crotch or somewhere else with nearly every version. I’ve made about a dozen of these. As I read, I realized the first mistake had been saying an 18″ was close enough to start with. During fitting View A I added 1″ to both back and front crotch length. With each new version I added crotch-length either by slash and spread (front) or scooping (back). My last version has 27 5/8″ crotch length. According to my bowl I need 29″. (Anyone remember writing that my crotch looked short?  You were right!).  Eventually, on View A,  I added the 3/8″ inseam darts recommended by Peggy Sagers and reshaped both front and back from  paren “()” or C shapes into more of a J or L. The final measurements, after repeated muslins and trials, were close to the size 20.  I realized View A had not been easy to fit. I had pounded away at it until I was satisfied.

So now I wanted to sew 5682 starting with the correct critical measurements. To fit  View B, I copied size 20, all around, added 1″ height to the back crotch, 2-1/4″ to the front crotch and made the Top of Inseam Dart 3/8″ (removes 3/4″ total) on front and back.  I also measured the top edge of the waistband and reduced it to my waist circumference.  Just so I have a place to make further changes under the butt when/if needed, I chalked and then basted diagonal lines across the front and back legs a l`a V1411.  My plan is to fit as much as possible with Size 20 and then make the fish eye dart. Using a diagonal will make the fish eye dart look decorative rather than  like an afterthought.

In the muslin stash was a cotton stripe. It landed there because it is white. I don’t wear white pants.  Can’t keep them clean long enough to leave the room in which I dress. No stretch and this pattern calls for denim or stretch wovens but doesn’t specify an amount of stretch. I am assuming not much because denim needs Lycra to stretch a lot. I pressed and stretched the fabric onto my cutting table. Topped it with the back, front, yoke and waistband pieces. I’m not messing with pockets this time around.

2 thoughts on “5682 View B”

  1. Hi sdbev,
    I looked at your “bowl.” Have you ever seen Lorraine Henry at a SewExpo? I see you marked where you curve. She (and the book Fitting and Pattern Alteration using the seam method, use the hip joints (when you raise your knee, the crease indicates this geographic landmark as you can feel your joint move there) as the reference points when placing the “bowl” on the tissue. The hip joints are the east/west points and the “water release valve” is the inseam point. When I look at your “bowl” the inseam point looks too far back.
    I figure you have probably tried that along the way. I have only been “following” you for a few weeks. I am understanding the measuring of the front and back lengths and comparing them to the pattern. That is very important and when I see the lengths almost identical, I know the pattern maker is not dealing with reality! Most have the inseam point too far back as I have discovered with my quest. I have to move my inseam forward.
    I enjoy how you analyze what you are doing. You have a lot of pattern/fitting knowledge and I enjoy “listening” to you. You are brave to work with pants that have lots of seams on the legs. I just made shorts and saved some fabric until I had the crotch area solved.

    1. Rose Marie, welcome to my continuing pants fitting saga. I go through this every few years as my body continues to change. It is frustrating to me that what worked before doesnt seem to work now. I think fitting should be reasonable, logical not one or life’s great mysteries. Not working out that way for my pants.

      Thanks for the new info. I was told to use “my special spot” for the inseam. It does seem too far back so I will switch to the water spout. Ive long known that patterns with a shorter front crotch fit me better. Also was unsure of the horizontal balace. Again, was told the crotch line, but that doesnt seem to work either. I am glad to have the new information and will work with it in a few days.

      Thanks for joining me

      Bev

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