I kept thinking about the whole crotch/hip/waist relationship. Wondering if V1411 had fit nicely because it was a Sandra Betzina draft or because I’d stumbled upon the right size (for those 3 critical measures) and alterations. I remembered both 5682 and Silhouette Patterns 3200 as being easy to fit. How could they be easy and V1411 in 2 sizes larger be easy if they shared the same basic draft? (I”m ignoring all the false starts I had with V1411. The last version was easy.) I am fairly sure they do share the same basic draft. Especially 5682 which was sold by Vogue and V1411 sold by their sister company Butterick. The Big 4 have their draft down and haven’t changed it, famous designers notwithstanding. It seems to me that for all 3 patterns to be easily fit, they must all 3 have the same critical measures. They don’t. So I, intending only to measure, pulled out 5682 and measured View B
I measured View B, not A, because View A’s leg was too small. In time I added width to the hem. I am assuming that all 5 views of 5682 are the same with differences in leg styling. If I traced again, it would not be View A.
Dotting out all the 5/8″ seam allowances and using a flexible ruler, I measured front and back crotch, hip then compared with 5682 View A, SP3200 and V1411 figures. I said “Huh.” I did what little housework was required downstairs all the while thinking…
Earlier I had added the yoke and waistband widths. Now I took my personal measurements, subtracted WB and yoke (as appropriate) and I figured out how much the pattern needed to measure to fit me. Which is:
- Front Crotch 11.5
- Back Crotch 12.5
- Hip 45 (includes 1.5″ ease)
None of the sizes came close to what I need. Seeing that, it makes me wonder how on earth 5682 View A was so easy to fit the first time? So I stopped to read my posts. They say we forget pain. We remember we had pain, but we forget the intensity. It must be true because for View A, I made 3 aisle runner muslins and 3 different fabric versions before I was satisfied. I did not say “until I perfected” just that I was satisfied enough to wear the resulting pants everywhere. Even after reaching a satisfied point, I continued to tweak the crotch or somewhere else with nearly every version. I’ve made about a dozen of these. As I read, I realized the first mistake had been saying an 18″ was close enough to start with. During fitting View A I added 1″ to both back and front crotch length. With each new version I added crotch-length either by slash and spread (front) or scooping (back). My last version has 27 5/8″ crotch length. According to my bowl I need 29″. (Anyone remember writing that my crotch looked short? You were right!). Eventually, on View A, I added the 3/8″ inseam darts recommended by Peggy Sagers and reshaped both front and back from paren “()” or C shapes into more of a J or L. The final measurements, after repeated muslins and trials, were close to the size 20. I realized View A had not been easy to fit. I had pounded away at it until I was satisfied.
So now I wanted to sew 5682 starting with the correct critical measurements. To fit View B, I copied size 20, all around, added 1″ height to the back crotch, 2-1/4″ to the front crotch and made the Top of Inseam Dart 3/8″ (removes 3/4″ total) on front and back. I also measured the top edge of the waistband and reduced it to my waist circumference. Just so I have a place to make further changes under the butt when/if needed, I chalked and then basted diagonal lines across the front and back legs a l`a V1411. My plan is to fit as much as possible with Size 20 and then make the fish eye dart. Using a diagonal will make the fish eye dart look decorative rather than like an afterthought.
In the muslin stash was a cotton stripe. It landed there because it is white. I don’t wear white pants. Can’t keep them clean long enough to leave the room in which I dress. No stretch and this pattern calls for denim or stretch wovens but doesn’t specify an amount of stretch. I am assuming not much because denim needs Lycra to stretch a lot. I pressed and stretched the fabric onto my cutting table. Topped it with the back, front, yoke and waistband pieces. I’m not messing with pockets this time around.