My mind cleared or at least stopped going in circles and started looking for solutions. I could not see using the fit of this ponte to alter the tissue. I just didn’t trust that the adjustments needed for it would work on the next fabric. I decided to alter my pattern tissue to my measurements, trim the ponte and make PJ’s; then continue fitting with another fabric.
Tissue was adapted so the front and back crotch are the length of my front and back crotch. Total crotch length remains the same. Although I had much improved the back by tweaking that diagonal seam, I didn’t change it. I considered adding Peggy’s Inseam Dart, but decided I’d made significant changes already. I had two objectives in using this pattern. 1) Did choosing my pattern by crotch length make fitting easier; and 2) did Sandra Betzina’s addition of a seam in the back leg make it possible to remove all the mess on the back leg without lots of tweaking.
I spent a good 4 hours sorting through the stash for test fabric. (Also spent a few hours on-line looking for cheap test fabric.) Filled up 2 boxes with fabric to be donated. Well I realized that a lot of the fabrics I set aside for muslin were either dark-colored or all the type fabric/stretch. Since this is clean up month, I got rid of them. What’s the point of keeping fabric I won’t use? Had to dig into the ‘good’ fabric to find a ponte that would work. Stretch is 40% crosswise and 0% lengthwise. I spent hours and hours prep (yes I’m counting all the fabric sorting) but at long last I was where I wanted to be 2 days ago: a muslin of a pattern selected based on crotch length.
Wasn’t quite expecting this. I had adjusted the waistband width because it had been difficult to attach to the pant. I thought it all went into seam allowance by it could bes affecting the total crotch length. So far though, I think this fit is considerably improved. I was contemplating adding ease to CF and maybe let out the crotch when I looked at the side seam thus:
The pant wants to pull towards the back. I could just offset the back to front side seam, but remembering the front, I think I will let both out 1/4″ from knee to waist.
Ummmm first I have not soiled myself. I thought this fabric a lighter grey than it is and I am having to adjust the exposure so we can see the wrinkles.
Letting out 1/4″ add 1″ and the results above, are spectacular IMO however the side seam still does not drop perfectly perpendicular.
It’s just a little divot towards the back, you may have to look closely to see it, and there are still pull lines from the front. Unfortunately, I can’t let the side seams out further, they are now 1/4″ wide. 1/8″ SA’s always shred on me. I’ve been told the same thing happens to other sewists. Puzzled, I check the pattern and discover my chosen width F is smaller than my body. I should have traced the G which has about 2″ of wearing. Damn! It’s another stupid error on my part. What the heck? Why am I making so many mistakes?
Sigh. Starting over….