After my last post (8/7), I really thought I was done not only with this muslin, but with the Airlie pattern. My Plan …Z had been to morph 5682 to include the Airlie pocket, a straight-elasticized waistband and join the yoke to the back leg. Then a couple of people suggested some possible alterations I had not considered.
Knock Knees are defined as knees that turn in-ward so that the feet are apart when the knees touch. Mine don’t actually turn-inward but I have a pad of fat which becomes larger as I gain weight (and incidentally years). The fat pad can have the effect of knock knees. When I’m posing for fit pictures, I always try to stand with my feet about as far apart as my shoulders, about 6-7″. My knees are not touching. Any touching seen is excess fabric hanging towards my center of gravity. In the past, I have a couple of knock knee alterations; without success. But there is no harm in trying something new. I was allowed to see a page from Sandra Betzina’s book Fast Fit title. I owned that book in the past and a few others she wrote. I have enormous respect for Sandra. I’m a believer that she knows wherefore of which she speaks. But her books leave me discombobulated. My books end up with more post-its than print. I just can never find the info a second time without asking someone for help. When I want a quick double-check, I don’t want to be delayed 2 days. I’ve given all her books in my possession to others but I was happy enough for someone to remind me of and allow me to see this page “Knock Knees”. I won’t post pic because I’m positive it is copyrighted. I will however add some discussion and my own photos. I think I’m in the clear for having given Sandra full credit. The way the law is these days, you never know. Anyway, you are to slice the leg horizontally about an inch below the crotch point. Attach a 2 or 3″ strip of fabric:
Do on both front and back. Stitch leg back together and take pics:
Curious, I took 2 sets of pics which I’m sharing, one with my knees touching the other as I’m normally standing for fitting. To determine if there is an improvement caused by this alteration, we need to see the last fitting pics again:
I vote no. I don’t see any improvement. I may even see a few more wrinkles than there were before. I also have a 2nd set of directions for basically the same issue and similar fix. The difference is that author does not overlap at the side seam. The wedge they add zeros at the side seam; opens at the inseam by the amount desired. If I’d seen any improvement following Sandra’s instructions, I might have tried again with the other set of instructions.
… was the second suggestion indirectly offered. By that I mean I was wasting time on Yahoo and came across a tube from Joy extolling the virtues of Angela Wolf’s Craftsy/Blueprint class on sewing and fitting pants. I admire Angela and have taken several classes plus watched her shows on TV(PBS). I’m happy to see a younger demographic and fresh ideas being exposed. Angela however does not compare in knowledge to Sandra. Don’t care about her FIT certificate. I have, too many times, yelled at the TV for something incorrect she shows or says. (I would never do that in person). It absolutely grates on my nerves that she, a professional, doesn’t know the vocabulary or why she is doing something. I believe words are important and it is important to use them correctly. Not saying I shouldn’t apologize for my short-comings but I really want a professional, who has the nerve to be telling me I’m wrong and should do it her way, I want her to use words correctly. “Look at this here” is not a good description! Finger tapping that serves mostly to cover up the place I should be looking, doesn’t get it either. I also think if you don’t know why you are doing something, you are not leading the charge; you are blindly following along in the beaten path. In which case it is highly unlikely for you to ever develop and show me something new or different. The Craftsy class Joy was so excited about gives a perfect example of what I mean:
Angela freely admits that this shouldn’t work to fix the mess which bunches up on the backside of our pants. Nonetheless, her solution is to pinch out the amount of mess; measure the pinch and then remove that amount across the back leg only. In her class she slashes the pattern piece and overlaps 2″. Then she points in the direction of the hem and says in effect the back leg is too short now (you think?) and needs length added; slash and add here” as her finger waves in the air. See, she both doesn’t know what the alteration does and doesn’t give specific instructions when she is in a profession in which 1/8″ and 1/4″ are important. Grrr! But don’t let me turn you off. Not only do I make grammar and vocabulary mistakes, I am somewhat anal. My instructions would have started “Find and uncap your 1/4″ chisel Tip Sharpie….” Lots of people justifiably complain that I put them to sleep before I get to the good stuff.
I’ve never even considered that I might have a hyper-extended calf. I did now. I can remember nearly all my life someone hissing at me to ‘unlock your knees’. I do have a tendency to “lock them knees back” probably putting my calves in an hyper-extended position. Again, I thought, nothing to lose by trying a different alteration. Seems as though none of my logical solutions are working. Maybe it’s time to try something illogical?I did not repeat her exact alteration and I know that can make a difference because I’ve experence that with other alterations. Something have to be done exactly and in a specific order or you are wasting your time. I drew lines on the leg so I was sure to be cutting across grain but I didn’t cut. I folded and pinned…
…before running to the SM to stitch 1″ from the line. I made a tick mark 2″ above the front hem; aligned with the back hem and stitched the leg back to to the front. Angela does warn that you need to retrue the inseam. But she didn’t have to deal with this:
I’ve got 2 dressmaking curves plus a bunch of smaller drafting curves. I twisted and turned; slide up and back. I could not make a nice arc using my curves. I finally free-handed about 5 lines
And finished stitching both the leg and the crotch before taking pics.
To be honest, I made both alterations at the same time. I made the Knock Knee on one leg, Hyper-Extended Calf on the other and took pics once. That’s why when you look at my pics, you consistently only see either right or left legs:
and as before side by side with the last fitting pics.
Once again, I don’t see any improvement. If you do, please point it out. I’d really love to find my fix. Ummm pants fitting fix, that is.