5682 - Jeans, Airlie

3 Pant Patterns Day 3: Grains Aligned

I have been examining my fitting pattern of 5682, the progressive tissues of Airlie and my unsewn DG2 jean. I’ve been looking at minutae trying to decide what is different and what effect it has. When my brain started smouldering I knew it was time for a different tack (sailing, not sewing).  Instead of the tissues, I compared 5682 with the original Airlie pattern.  I was again surprised at how closely they resembled each other. I’d almost swear they were drafted by the same person and changed only to eliminate the back yoke and add a different waistband. It seemed to me that all the changes were from the back yoke up. So why does it affect the back of the leg?  If not for the back of the leg, I’d wear Airlie Muslin 1

I was desperate, no doubt about that, but I also truly wanted to see the difference beween my fitted 5682 and Airlie.  In blue, I traced the original Airlie . Pinned the pocket in place so I was not having to account for pocket pieces. Not one more change to Airlie–at least at this point.  I placed 5682 on top and lined up the grain lines, before tracing my fitted 5682 on top in orage.  I added the yoke to 5682 and then belatedly, added the waistband to both.  Yoke, and waistbands were overlapped so that their seam allowances could be ignored.  Took Pictures. Well even though it’s only back and front, there are enough lines to be confunsing.  Also more than enough to start telling a different tale about these drafts.

The first thing I want to point out is how Airlie’s pocket sits.  I saw the same thing when I added the pocket to the Yellow Stripe 5682.  The side seam slopes sharpely up

On my body, the highest point is my center front waist everything slopes down to the sides and then gently from the sides up to CB.  The high side seam is not right for me.  I can see I need to open up the WB on the Yellow stripe and correct that immy.

Since were looking at the front, lets look at all of it but compared with the 5682.

So yes the 5682, orange, is much higher than Airlie, blue. But do recall that I had already added to Airlie for the muslins and I believe all of this has been accounted for. What I am really find interesting is the leg shape.  Earlier I aligned the pattern pieces on top of each other with the grain in the same direction but not matched.  For this comparison, I aligned grainlines and crotch points.  Crotch points may be slightly off because I’ve added length to the 5682 which is not in this tracing of the original. I’m taking points with a grain of salt, it is how the legs are distributing the circumferece and the actual shape of the crotch that caught my eye.  On 5682, there is less ease along the inseam more along the side seam. Interesting because I usually don’t need more along the side seam, I need in the seat area. I know with the muslins that the original crotch shape had been changed. However  Muslin 1 and Fit 1 were the nicests fit. None of the changes enhanced the front at all. Some made it worse .

And what we’ve all be waiting for, the Back:

The legs align much better .  5682, has a more ease along the entire side seam, but not much. 1/2″ at the most. The crotch is vastly different. Vastly. There is more ease in the inseam above the knee as well as more next to the crotch.  5682 crotch point is at least 1″ longer the Airlie. However the crotch upright is probably 3/4″ shorter and there isn’t nearly the scoop of the Airlie back crotch. No wonder further scooping and darting of the back didn’t help!

One further item I compared using the pants, is where the waist rests on my body. The both rest  right at my waist.  I made the test by putting the Airlie on and marking my body with a Sharpie; then putting the 5682 on and checking where it rested. It they are exactly together, it’s not more than a 1/16″ apart.   To me, it further attest to how similar these two pattern are. The change in the back crotch extension was done to 5682 by me. I added all that length which I know also added the extra by the inseam down to the knee. Where the crotch rises, I believe, is the real difference in the 2 crotches.

 

I have a question for all of you.  When I heard/read that people copy their crotch curve to a new pattern, I always assumed the copied just the test tube shape (in whatever form it has morphed) onto the new pattern.  Is that right, or do you copy more? do you include the waist? The side seam? Any part of the inseam?

 

 

 

2 thoughts on “3 Pant Patterns Day 3: Grains Aligned”

  1. Bev – your Airlie are almost perfect and very flattering in terms of cut & style. You just need a wedge adjustment at the CB to accommodate your fuller figure there and get the pant on grain. I just did this adjustment for customer with similar back pattern issues and if you send me your email address, I’ll send you your pics back with the adjustments that I made marked on your pics (both pant and pattern). Worked great.

  2. I know you’re supposed to line up grain lines – but – if you lay the 2 back crotchs together I think you’ll find them exactly the same. That would also mean that the Arlies are smaller around then the other pattern. The side shape is also different. The front crotch curves are very different. I think Gayle has the right idea.

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