3418

3418: I officially quit

I give up on this pants pattern.  Before I get too far, let me say that even if successful,  I would not wear this pant.  It is too close-fitting for my taste and I started by tracing 2 sizes larger than my hips. I would not call this a yoga pant or even a skinny pant. It is to me in the same category as long johns and tights.  My Sewing Angel noted the same thing i.e. too tight to wear in public but easy to construct. The single review at PR said in effect she had no problems She was quite positive about her entire experience. However she did not provide a modeled shot. Only a front hanger pic. No back view. I will echo her comment that it was easy to sew. Pants nearly always are easy to sew, it’s the fitting which”bust my chops”. The PR reviewer made a size 14 in 1.5 yards of 60″ wide fabric.  For my first pair of size 24W I used 2.50 yards of 56″ fabric; 1-7/8 yards of 60″ of Ponte fabric.  This may not be quite the fabric hog I originally estimated. I may finish the two pairs I made to wear as PJ’s or even long johns but I will not wear them in public and I will not make any more. My copy of the pattern is on the way to the trash if I can’t get it back in the envelope to donate to Goodwill (they do accept uncut, complete patterns.)

My first fabric was Knit Ottoman with a unusual 40% cross and 70% lengthwise stretch.  Possibly I should have laid out the pattern cross grain as we do with Bengaline. The stretch factor always bothered me so before giving up I made a second pair of a nice RPL Ponte with the typical 20% stretch both ways. I started by basting together the pieces and situating the crotch so it was comfortable for me and marking where I wanted the waist. Things went down hill from there. I tried

  1. adding crotch length both front and back
  2. decreasing crotch length both front and back
  3. adding crotch extension (stride) length  both front and back
  4. decreasing crotch extension (stride) length both front and back
  5.  decreased the inseam depth
  6. increased the inseam depth
  7. crotch SA remained 3/8″ through out
  8. increasing side seam depth
  9. decreasing side seam depth
  10. increasing the center back seam depth
  11. decreasing the center back seam depth
  12. serging replacing basting.
  13. stitching with walking foot
  14. added  Peggy’s Hip line dart
    1.  transferred to the tissue for the 2nd pair made in Ponte
    2. removed from the Ottoman so I was working with original draft
  15. Added Peggy’s top of inseam dart,
    1. transferred to the tissue for 2nd pair made in Ponte
    2. removed from the Ottoman so I was working with original draft
  16. Shorten the side seam length
  17. ripped out the crotch seam 2″ on either side of the inseam and let it hang
  18. stitched that back together at 3/8″
  19. added a knock knee adjustment
  20. removed the knock knee adjustment
  21. scooped the back crotch 1/2″
  22. Repeat all for Ponte pair
  23. I made many of the adjustments in 1/4″ increments stopping and reversing the process around 2″ when I could start counting pubic hairs through the fabric.

I havent thrown either pant away–both are in time out. Winter is coming to an end and I wont need PJ’s before Nov 2018 so I’m in no hurry to nail all the seams/hems/elastic WB finished, add a knit top and  declare 2018 Winter PJ’s ready for use. So if you can suggest any changes not listed above, I’m willing  and have plenty of time to test anything I haven’t already tried.

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Last fitting of Knit Ottoman Version

Ottoman Pics have been lightened 89% to better see drag lines/wrinkles.

1/2″ scoop was made and can’t be undone

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Last fitting of RPL Ponte version

Ponte Pics lightened 20% to better see drag lines/wrinkles

Ponte tissue and therefore the pants themselves include the hip line and top of inseam darts

Scoop has been made and can’t be undone

TIA

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4 thoughts on “3418: I officially quit”

  1. Yeah not good. You need wider legs in your pants or you’d have to do a full calf alteration to stop them catching there. Agree not worth doing.

    1. Thanks Ruthie. It may be a wonderful pattern for many others but I fear Its not for me. So glad that someone else agrees.

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